LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap. ...Lj^ Copyright x\o. 

Shelf *v5.5;ig: 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



PRACTICAL AND 
ARTISTIC COOKERY 



IN nVE PARTS 



Part I. — Soups, Fish, Oysters, Game, Poultry, 
Meats. 



Part II.^Entiees, Salads, Cold Dishes, Eggs, 
Vegetables. 

Part III. — Bread and Other Yeast Raised Articles, 
Cakes, Puddings, etc. 

Part IV. — The Family Confectioner, Ice Creams, 
Frozen Desserts, Candy Making. 

Part V. — Ornamental Cookery, Notes on the Selec- 
tion of Wine, Remarks About the Cor- 
rect Service of the Table. 



By EUGENE GIRARD 



THE MASSENA OBSERVER PRINTING HOUSE, MASSENA, NEW YORK. 



97037 



Librwry of Condreea 

Iwu Ciit*(ES Received 
DEC 311900 

-.^ Copynght ontry 

SECOND COPY 

Oetivwad to 

OHOCR DIVISION 
JAN 14 1901 






Entered According to Act of Congress 

in the Office of the Librarian at Washington, 

by Eugene Girard, 

December, 1900. 



PREFACE. 



One who would add to the hundreds of reliable cook books in 
existence, many of them by masters of the art, must show that a 
necessity still exists which he can supply. 

A cook book has not yet been published which condenses into a 
small volume all that pertains to fine cooking and correct table 
service. This task the author feels he has accomplished in a form 
that renders it an intelligent and practical guide to the housekeeper 
and family cook, as well as the club manager and restaurateur. I 
confidently trust that I have conscientiously and faithfully fulfilled 
the promises of the title of my work. It is for others to appreciate 
the execution of the difficult task I have assumed, and I hope it 
may receive favorable consideration. 

EUGENE GIRARD. 



^ ^ ^ PART L ^ ^ ^ 



SOUPS, CONSOMMES, CHOWDERS, ETC. 
nSH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, CLAMS, CRABS 



MEATS. 



Broiled, Boiled, Roasted, Fried. 



GAME, POULTRY, 

CARVING, 

PRESERVATION OF MEATS. 



Soups^ Consommes^ Bouillons^ Chowders. 



HOW TO MAKE STOCK. 

Stock is the basis of all meat soup. The 
large quantities produced in hotels and 
the lengthy methods employed in its pro- 
duction are impracticable and unneces- 
sary for a private family. The best fla- 
Tored stock is that which simmers only 
six hours. There are two kinds of stock. 
The ordinary stock made with beef-shin, 
knuckles of veal, poultry, and other 
beef and veal trimmings is used for 
most of the soups hereafter mentioned. 
Light stock used in the preparation of 
white soup, such as cream of chicken and 
rice, etc., etc., is made with veal bones, 
chicken and trimmings. 

The best stock is made entirely from 
raw meat and cracked bones, but pieces 
of underdone beef and the bones left 
from the dinner joints, also the roasted 
turkey and chicken bones will make a 
good stock. Roasted meats give the stock 
a rich amber color — but do not use boiled 
meats. Save all the bits of roasted meat 
and bones, trimmings of poultry, etc., 
left over from the preceding meals and 
make your stock as follows: 

Seven pounds of beef-shin or neck 
piece, or seven pounds of veal knuckles, 
one small turnip or parsnip, one large 
carrot, one large onion, two or three stalks 
of celery, two ounces of salt, a dozen 
•whole peppers, a pinch of mace, a bunch 
of aromatic herbs (no sage), five quarts 
of cold water. 

Always use cold water, hot water seals 
up the meat and prevents the juice from 
oozing out. i.'ut the meat, break the 
bones, wash them carefully in cold water; 
take a bright kettle, put in a piece of but- 
ter the size of a small lemon, let it melt, 
then add the meat and bones, vegetables 
and spices, pieces and trimmings saved 
from the preceding meals, and a pint of 
water; place on a brisk fire, cover tightly, 
and stir frequently. When the bottom of 



the kettle is covered with a light colored 
substance add the rest of the water and 
let simmer gently for six hours. Skim 
carefully as the scum rises. When done 
strain through a cheese-cloth and remove 
all the fat which will quickly come to the 
surface. Keep it in glass jars in a cool 
place and it will be good several days, 
but you must not cover the jars until the^ 
stock is perfectly cold. 

IviGHT Stock. 
Proceed as for ordinary stock, using 
only veal, poultry and trimming. 

J -GREEN TURTLE SOUP. 

The English Nobility's Favorite. 
Made of the green sea turtle, but not 
necessarily of a green tinge, which is im- 
parted by the green herbs used in its 
preparation. But in this country, thyme, 
marjoram, savory, and sweet basil can be 
obtained only in the dry state; but green 
celery and onion tops, and a good deal of 
parsley only scalded and washed and 
pounded through a sieve will give the 
green tinge, but if this cannot be obtained 
give the soup a nice brown color. If the 
soup is to be served at a six o'clock din- 
ner the turtle may be cut up in the morn- 
ing, otherwise if the soup is to be served 
at the noon meal the stock and turtle 
must be made ready the night before. 
Kill the turtle by partly cutting off the 
head, tie a stout fishing twine to the hind 
fins, then immerse it in a boiler partly 
full of boiling water and let it stand from 
ten to twenty minutes, according to the 
size of the turtle, then pull off all you 
can of the horny coating and the black 
cuticle from the neck, head and fins. 
Take off the bottom shell (don't open it 
like you would an oyster, that is by divid- 
ing the shell, as you will spoil some of 
the best meat), cut in the shell about 
I an inch from the edge and then cut under 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



cutting avray as much of the calipee 
(white meat) as you can without cutting 
into the entrails. 

Remove the entrails, taking the great- 
est possible care not to break the gall. 
Dismember the fins at the sockets; next 
cut the calipash (dark meat) from the 
back shell. It is not possible to take it 
out whole, but take it out in as large 
pieces as possible. Cut the green fat 
from the fin sockets and around the edges 
of the shell, let that stand in ice water. 

Saw the shell in pieces to boil in the 
stock along with the head. 

For a turtle weighing thirty pounds 
you will require the following ingredi- 
ents, but you must add and deduct ac- 
cording to the size of the turtle. 

13 quarts of soup stock. 

3 medium sized onions. 

Yz teaspoonful allspice. 

Yz teaspoonful (small) whole cloves. 

2 bay leaves. 

1 blade of mace. 
Yz pound of flour. 
% lb. good butter. 
Yz lb. raw ham. 

Y> pint Madeira wine. 

2 small lemons. 
Green or dry herbs. 

Salt, cayenne and white pepper. 

This will make seven quarts of soup. 

If you want the soup for six o'clock 
dinner, and the turtle and stock are all 
ready, begin at ten o'clock. 

Put the shell and head in the bottom of 
a bright kettle, or stock boiler if you have 
one, pour the cold stock over; boil gently, 
taking care to remove the scnui as it 
rises. 

Then add one of the onions, the spices, 
half a teaspoonful of black pepper, same 
of thyme and savory, and peel of a small 
lemon. At two o'clock take three bright 
stew pans, one each for the green fat, 
calipee (white meat) and calipash (dark 
meat). Put enough of the turtle stock 
in each of the stew pans to cover the 
meat. 

The fat will cook in one-half an hour, 
the calipee in two and one-half hours. 
The different parts may cook in less 
time. Keep close watch for the parts 
must be neatly cut and trimmed, not done 
too much. When the different parts are 



taken out and placed on dishes to cool 
what remains in the stew pans goes back 
in the boiler or kettle containing the 
shell. When the cooked turtle meat lA 
cold enough, cut it into squares and keep 
it ready. 

At four o'clock cut the ham in very 
thin slices, lay it in a sauce pan with the 
three-fourths pound of butter, and rest of 
the onions cut fine; let that cook until it 
begins to fry ; add the flour, stir thorough- 
ly, and place the sauce pan in the oven 
till the mixture is a nice straw color. 
Take it out of the oven, place on the 
range again, and stir in first a little of the 
stock, adding until the pan is full, taking 
pains to prevent the mixture from being 
lumpy. When finished pour the contents 
in the stock boiler or kettle, let the mix- 
ture slowly boil a half hour more. Strain 
through a fine strainer in the soup jar or 
kettle and let simmer about fifteen min- 
utes; then skim the fat, squeeze the juice 
of one lemon in a half teacupful of cold 
water, put that in the soup, let it stand a 
few minutes more, and skim again. Add 
the turtle meat and fat, season with salt 
and cayenne. If you have the green 
herbs already mentioned, scald and press 
them through a sieve, otherwise let the 
soup be of its own color. 

Now for the turtle eggs, cook them 
separately and add last, or else make que- 
nelles with pounded white meat of 
chicken, a raw yolk, and minced parsley 
made into small balls; stew them sepa- 
rately. Add the rest of the lemon juice 
and Madeira wine just before serving. 

TuRTivE Soup a i^a Creoi,e. 
Turtle Soup a la Creole is made like 
the foregoing, with the addition of 
stewed tomatoes; one quart of tomato to 
four of stock. The tomatoes having been 
stewed down before adding to the stock. 

2— TURTLE SOUP. 

A good substitute for the original green 
turtle, made in about two hours and a 
half: 

I can turtle. 

4 quarts of soup stock. 

I chicken. 

I veal shank. 

I ham knuckle. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



I large lemon. 

I carrot. 

I parsnip or turnip. 

^ lb. of flour. 

^ lb. of butter. 

Herbs and spice mentioned in recipe 
No. I. 

I tumblerful of Marsala or Madeira wine 

Mince the vegetables, place them in a 
bright kettle with about two ounces of 
butter; then the chicken, veal shank and 
ham, the spices, and half a pint of stock, 
proceed as for making ordinary stock, 
then add the rest of the stock and half of 
the wine, boil gently until the chicken 
is tender, strain, skim the fat that will 
rise. Half an hour before the chicken is 
done open the can of turtle, place it in 
hot water, drain all the liquor in the 
strained soup. Brown the flour in the 
oven; put it in a saucepan with the butter 
and about a pint of the soup; rub this 
smooth and keep adding soup till the 
saucepan is full; pour this thickening in 
the soup-kettle, let it simmer half an 
hour more; skim all that rises. Put in 
the herbs as directed in recipe No. i. 
Strain again through a fine sieve. Add 
the turtle meat, the rest of the wine, a 
pinch of cayenne, and more salt if needed. 

Quenelles if desired, see recipe No. i. 

3 —MOCK TURTLE. 

A rich gravy soup flavored with toma- 
toes. 

5 quarts of ordinary stock. 
I quart can of tomatoes. 

1 pint of brown gravy (if any). 
yi, lb. of flour. 

% lb. of butter. 

2 cupfuls of mixed vegetables, celery, 
carrots, turnips, onions. 

2 hard boiled eggs. 

I teaspoonful of mixed ground spices. 

I slice of ham lightly fried; as much of 
lean roast beef or pork. 

I lemon. 

Yz teaspoonful of curry. 

Put the tomatoes in a saucepan with 
the minced vegetables, and two ounces of 
butter. Stew the mixture until it begins 
to fry; the tomatoes will then have 
changed from red to a light brown. Put 
this mixture in with the stock, spices, 



curry and gravy; let it boil gently while 
you are making the thickening with the 
browned flour and rest of the butter, as 
mentioned in the preceding recipes; when 
done put it in the soup, let it boil a few 
minutes more, skim off the fat. Cut the 
ham and cold meat into small squares 
about the size of a pea bean; chop the 
eggs, throw all in the soup. Put a thin 
slice of lemon in each plate. 



4 —CLEAR TURTLE SOUP. 

Will make four qiiarts of soup after 
reduction by boiling. 
8 quarts of soup stock. 
A 25 lb. turtle, 
% lb. of raw beef. 
% lb. of raw sliced ham. 
5 whites of eggs. 
Yz cup of button mushroom. 

1 large onion. 

Yz tumbler Madeira. 

2 small lemons. 

Yz teaspoonful of whole pepper. 

Yz teaspoonful of mace. 

1 bay leaf. 

A handful of parsley. 

Salt and cayenne. 

Place the turtle shell and sliced ham 
in a bright kettle; cover them with 
the stock; boil about one hour; skim 
carefully; put in the turtle meat, boil 
about one and a half hours, taking 
great care that none of the meat 
cooks too much. Take it out as it ap- 
pears done. When cold enough take the 
bones out, put them back in the kettle 
with the mushrooms, onions, spices, 
and the rind of a small lemon. An hour 
and a half before serving strain the soup 
in a crock or stone jar. Let it stand on 
the table about twenty minutes, skim oflf 
the top, pour it back in the kettle through 
a fine strainer, add the whites of eggs, 
the peel of one lemon, a cup of ice-water, 
and the minced raw beef. Set it back on 
the range, and when the whites are well 
cooked strain through a jelly bag or a 
doubled napkin. Then put in the turtle 
meat and eggs or quenelles, taking care 
that there are no fragments of eggs, and 
use only the meat that will not float. 
The turtle meat that floats should not be 
used in the clear soup. Some turtle soup 



1.2 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



makers use the green in this soup, but 
we do not deem it advisable. Just before 
serving add the wine and a thin slice of 
lemon. 

5 —CLEAR MOCK TURTLE. 
Proceed as in No. 4, using a scalded 
calf's head instead of a turtle. The 
tongue and meat from the calf's head 
being cut in squares and served precisely 
as the turtle meat in the foregoing recipe. 
Do not omit the quenelles or egg balls. 

6 —CONSOMME BRUNOISE. 

3 quarts ordinary stock. 

I white of egg. 

%, cup of carrot and turnips, cut in 
small squares not larger than a marrowfat 
pea, better smaller. 

Yj, cup bright green peas. 

Yz cup lean raw beef, minced. 

Strain and skim the stock, add the raw 
beef and white of egg in a cup of cold 
water; set it on to boil. When the egg 
is well cooked strain through a jelly bag. 
Cook the vegetables in water; when done 
wash them, and with the peas add them 
to the consomme. You may color with a 
spoonful of meat extract or liquid burnt 
sugar. 

7— COLORING. 

Liquid Burnt Sugar. 
One cup of sugar and a tablespoonful 
of water. Set it on the side of the range 
in a small kettle. When of a verj' dark 
brown, almost black, add a pint of 
water; let it boil until all dissolved, pour 
it in a stout bottle. 

8— CONSOMME CALCUTTA. 

3 quarts of ordinary stock. 

I veal shank. 

Yz lb. lean raw beef. 

I white of egg. 

I pint of tomatoes. 

I teaspoonful of curry. 

Generous pinch of cayenne. 

Roast the veal shank until light brown; 
put it in the soup kettle, cover with the 
stock, boil gentlj' about an hour and a 
half. Strain and skim; add the raw beef, 



the white of egg in a pint of ice water;^ 
when cool strain through a jelly bag. 
Stew the tomatoes with the curry and 
cayenne until you have a thick puree» 
force through a sieve and serve a tea- 
spoonful in each plate without mixing. 

This consomme should be of a nice 
brandy color. 

9— CONSOMME CHATELAINE. 

3 quarts of ordinar}' stock. 

I roasted chicken. 

Boil the roasted chicken in the stocky 
this will give it a peculiar flavor and right 
color. Strain, skim, and clarify in the 
same way as directed in recipe No. 6 
with the lean beef and white of egg. 
When done strain through a jelly bag. 
Mince very fine a few button mushrooms 
and young onions, about one-fourth cup 
each; break two eggs in a bowl, beat 
them; add the minced mushrooms and 
onions; steam like any custard. When 
cold cut in square shapes; serve six or 
seven in each plate of consomme. Keep 
the chicken for an entree. 

10— CONSOMME JARDINIERE. 

3 quarts ordinary stock. 

I pint mixed vegetables (green peas^ 
beans, small carrots, turnip, a small green 
cucumber, one large ®nion). 

Clarify in the usual way with egg and 
raw beef , strain, and color if necessary. 
Cut the beans and other vegetables in 
small squares, remove all the green out- 
side and seeds of the cucumber. Boil all 
together until tender, drain the water, 
wash and put the vegetables in the con- 
somme; serve with toasted crackers^ 

n— CONSOMME IMPERIAL- 

4 quarts of ordinary stock. 
I shank of veal. 

I fowl. 

Yz pint of Madeira (optional). 

I carrot. 

I onion. 

Saw the veal shank in small pieces; lay 
them in a roasting pan, the fowl on top, 
with the minced carrot and onion strewn 
all over, dredge with salt and pepper; add 
one pint of stock. Bake in the oven until 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



13 



a nice light brown. Put the whole con- 1 
tents of the pan in the soup kettle; cover 
with the four quarts of stock, and boil 
very gently about two hours; remove from 
the range; let stand about one-half hour, 
skim carefully; then clarify in the usual 
way with raw beef and egg; strain through 
the jelly bag. Make a custard with two 
eggs mixed with two or three tablespoon- 
fuls of the consomme. When cold cut 
into shapes and serve in the plates. Add 
the wine just before serving. 

J2— WINE IN THE PREPARATION 

OF SOUP. 
Many persons object to the use of wine 
in the preparation of soup, in most cases 
it can be omitted. Very often, indeed, 
persons that are not in the habit of using 
wine in any kind of preparations prefer 
the soup without any. The writer, who 
had the priviledge of being employed in 
England by a millionaire, noted as much 
for his temperance as for his millions, 
never drank wine of any kind, but allowed 
the generous use of it in the preparation 
of food, claiming that wine in this case 
was nothing more than a flavoring ex- 
tract. He was a man possessing more 
than his share of intelligence, and the 
author is rather inclined to think in a 
like manner. 

J3— CREAM OF ASPARAGUS. 

The soiip to be perfect should be made 
of fresh asparagus, but when this cannot 
be obtained, canned asparagus may be 
used. 

i}4 lbs. of green asparagiis, or 2 lbs. 
canned. 

2 quarts light stock (see stock). 

1 large onion minced. 

2 slices of salt pork. 

I quart of light cream or new milk. 

}4 cup butter; if cream is used instead 
of milk, X cup of butter will be sufiScient. 

I teacupful of flour. 

Cut off the heads, or tops of the aspara- 
gus, which will be cooked separately; put 
the rest in the kettle with the onion and 
salt pork; cover with the stock; season 
lightly with white pepper and a pinch of 
mace; boil three-fourths of an hour. 



Fifteen minutes before the soup is 
cooked put the tips to boil in some of the 
soup. Put the butter in a sauce pan, 
melt it on the shelf of the range, and 
warm the milk or cream in a double dish. 
When the butter is melted throw in the 
flour; set the pan over a hot fire, stir 
briskly, adding the milk in small por- 
tions until it is all in. When this cream 
sauce is done set the pan back on the 
shelf. Strain the soup; rub the asparagus 
through the strainer; put in the tips; mix 
the cream sauce; salt and butter to taste. 

Care must be taken in making the cream 
sauce that the flour and butter do not 
color previous to adding the milk or 
cream. 



I4-CREAM OF POTATOES. 

2 quarts of light stock. 

6 potatoes. 

I large onion. 

I slice of salt pork. 

I quart of milk. 

}i cup of flour. 

Boil the stock about half an hour with 
the pork and onion in it. Take the fresh 
cooked potatoes, mash them thoroughly, 
add the milk, beat a moment, strain the 
soup stock; mix in the potatoes; set on the 
range. When the soup boils, thicken 
with the flour previously mixed smooth 
in cup of milk. It should be thickened 
enough to prevent the potatoes from set- 
tling to the bottom. 

Mince very fine some parsley, or green 
celery tops, and sprinkle on top. 



15— TOMATO SOUP. 

2 quarts of stock. 

I quart tomatoes ( thick ) . 

% lb. salt pork. 

I cup flour thickening. 

I onion. 

I tablespoonful sugar. 

Boil the stock; tomatoes, salt pork, on- 
ion, and sugar one hour, then thicken 
with the flour thickening (flour and cold 
water mixed smooth like cream). The 
soup should have the consistency of 
cream. Put through a strainer, pound or 
mash till nothing is left of the tomatoes 
but the seeds. Salt and white pepper. 



M 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



J6-TOMATO MACARONI SOUP. 

Same as No. 15 with the addition of a 
cupful of cooked macaroni and a sprinkle 
of grated cheese on top. 

17— TOMATO SOUP WITH VERMI- 
CELLI. 
Same as No. 16, use vermicelli instead 
of macaroni. The vermicelli will cook in 
the soup in about ten minutes. 



J8— TOMATO AND RICE SOUP. 
Same as No. 15, but do not thicken with 
flour, strain the soup when ready and add 
a small half cup of rice previously washed 
in cold water, and boil very gently three- 
quarters of an hour. The rice will thicken 
the soup sufficiently. 

19— TOMATO GREEN PEA SOUP. 
Same as No. 15, with the addition of a 
half cup of green peas. 



20— PUREE OF TOMATO AU CROU- 
TON. 
2 quarts of tomatoes. 

1 small minced onion. 

2 quarts of water, or stock. 
I teaspoonful of sugar. 

I teaspoonful of salt. 

% cup of butter. 

% cup of flour. 

Boil the tomatoes, onions, stock, sugar 
and salt gently one hour (always boil 
soups gently) . Make a thickening of the 
butter and flour as directed for cream of 
asparagus (No. 13) using some of the to- 
mato mixture from the kettle instead of 
milk; when ready pour all together and 
rub through a sieve. Salt and pepper. 

Serve with croutons. 



2J— CROUTONS FOR SOUP, 

Three or four thin slices of bread cut in 
small squares; baked in a buttered pan in 
the oven, but a good deal better fried in 
hot lard like you would doughnuts; you 
may fry them in clarified butter or olive 
oil. 



22— CREAM OF TOMATOES. 

Proceed as directed for puree of toma- 
toes (No. 20), use a half teaspoonful of 
saleratus in place of the sugar. Just be- 
fore serving add a pint of cream previous- 
ly warmed in a double dish. 

23-CONSOMME DE STAEL. 

The name was given in 1814 in allusion 
to Madame de Stael, the famous politi- 
cian, and author of Corrinne, Delphine, 
and other well known books. 

Make twice the quantity of ordinary 
stock, boil it down to three quarts. This 
stock must be made the night before and 
strained in a jar, skim off all the fat, pour 
carefully in the soup kettle, leaving the 
sediment in the bottom of the jar. Chop 
a half pound of lean beef, a carrot, a small 
turnip, a piece of celery the length of 
your finger, and a small onion; add all of 
the stock, boil , and strain through a nap- 
kin; set it over the fire again, simmer 
gently, skim and season. 

Make quenelles with half a breast of 
chicken, a little grated lemon rind, half 
teaspoonful of finely minced parsley, one 
or two yolks of eggs; cut in round shapes 
about one-half inch in diameter. Make 
croutons of the same shape. Serve seve- 
ral of each in every plate. Before serving 
poach the quenelles in hot water. 

24— CONSOMME CLAREMONT. 

Make a nice clear consomme as directed 
for imperial in No. 11. 

Slice some nice white onions, dust these 
with flour, fry in a kettle of hot lard like 
Saratoga chips, when of a nice color and 
fried dry (be sure to have the lard hot 
enough), drain carefully and serve in the 
plates of consomme, 

25— CONSOMME A LA PAYSANNE. 

3 quarts of ordinary stock. 

yi lb. raw beef. 

% cup green peas, 

I cup shredded cabbage. 

% cup of squash cut in small pieces 
about size of peas. 

Clarify the consomme with the beef and 
eggs as directed in recipe No. 6, Cook 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



15 



the vegetables in water, drain when done, 
add these to the consomme, salt and 
■white pepper. 



26— CONSOMME KNIC3CER- 
BOCKER. 

3 quarts of chicken broth. 

y^ Clip (small) barley. 

I large tomato. 

1 each of onion, carrot and turnip. 

I stalk of celery. 

I teaspoonful of sugar. 

Skim and strain the chicken broth. 
Cut the mixture of vegetables in very 
small dice, peel the tomato, cut it in 
small pieces. Sprinkle all the vegetables 
■with sugar and fry them, using a piece of 
butter the size of an egg, and -when 
slightly colored add them to the broth. 
Cook the barley separately, drain it, put 
in the soup; season to taste. 

27— MULLIGAWTANY SOUP No. I. 

The original receipt for Mulligawtany 
eomes from India. The name itself is a 
composite of two East Indian names. 

Boil a fowl so that when it is done you 
■will have five pints of broth; cook in this 
broth half a cup of rice and a small par- 
snip or turnip cut in small dice; when 
done add the chicken white meat cut in 
squares, one teaspoonful curry, season, 
thicken lightly with flour thickening. 

28— MULLIGAWTANY No. 2. 

a quarts of ordinary stock. 

I carrot. 

j4 cup of flour. 

}i cup of butter. 

I pint tomatoes. 

}i cup of olives. 

1 teaspoonful of curry, 

$ slices of corned tongue. 

I onion. 

Stew down the tomatoes with the onion 
minced in it. Put the stock in the kettle 
with the curry, stewed tomato and onion, 
boil gently half an hour. Cut the carrot 
in dice and cook separately. Brown the 
flour and butter lightly in the oven, 
thicken the soup with this, strain through 
a sieve, add the carrots and olives cut in 



pieces; serve with a slice of the cooked 
corned tongue. 

29— FISH MULLIGAWTANY. 
A 2 lb. fish — pike, salmon or snapper. 
I onions. 
% cup of rice. 
Lemon, salt, cayenne. 
^ cup of flour. 

1 heaping teasp®onful curry. 

Boil the fish in water with a little salt, 
you must have two quarts of the fish 
stock. Fry the onions in butter the size 
of an ^gg, fry only to change color; throw 
them in the fish stock. Brown the flour 
and mix it with some of the stock, and 
add it for thickening. Mix the curry 
with the juice of a lemon; throw this in 
the kettle; simmer ten minutes, then 
strain and set at the side of the range 
about half an hour, and skim all that 
rises. Pick the fish from the bones and 
skin, put it in the tureen, pour the soup 
on top, serve a generous spoonful of 
steamed rice in each plate. 

30— CONSOMME A LA COLBERT. 

2 quarts of ordinary stock. 
% cup French green peas. 
Eggs. 

Clarify the stock; season to taste; add 
to each plate one poached egg well done, 
and a spoonful of the peas. 

3J— VEAL SOUP. 

Put a knuckle of veal into three quarts 
of cold water, with a small quantity of 
salt, and one small tablespoonful of un- 
cooked rice. Boil slowly, hardly above 
simmering, four hours, when the liquor 
should be reduced to half the usual quan- 
tity ; remove from fire. Into the tureen 
put the yolk of an egg, and stir well into 
it a teacupful of cream, or, in hot weather, 
new milk; add a piece of butter the size 
of a lemon; on this strain the soup, boil- 
ing hot, stiring all the time. Just at the 
last, beat it well for a minute. 



32— ONION SOUP. 
I quart of milk. 
6 large onions. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Yolks of 4 eggs. 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter. 

I large tablespoonful of flour. 

I cupful of cream. 

Salt, pepper. 

Put the butter in a frying pan. Cut 
the onions into thin slices and drop in the 
butter. Stir until they begin to cook; 
then cover tight and set back where they 
will simmer, but not burn, for half an 
hour. Now put the milk on to boil, and 
then add the dry flour to the onions and 
stir constantly for three minutes over the 
fire; then turn the mixture into the milk 
and cook fifteen minutes. Rub the soup 
through a sieve, return to the fire, season 
•with salt and pepper. Beat the yolks of 
the eggs well, add the cream to them and 
stir into the soup. Cook three minutes, 
stirring constantly. If you have no 
cream, use milk, in which case add a 
tablespoonful of butter at the same time. 

Serve with croutons. 



4 



33— CHIC2CEN GUMBO SOUP. 

Gumbo, or okra, can be bought fresh in 
the South, but in the North and West we 
generally buy it canned. Okra is gela- 
tinous, and a favorite soup vegetable of 
the Creole. 

I chicken. 

I carrot. 

I turnip. 

I large onion. 

1 thick slice of ham. 

I can of okra. 

Cut the chicken in about a dozen 
pieces; the ham into strips the length and 
width of two fingers; fry them in butter. 
Mince the carrot, turnip and onion; put 
them in the sauce pan with the chicken. 
When the contents of the sauce pan are 
getting br(.\vn add three quarts of stock. 
Tie up a hunch of tliyme, parsley, one bay 
leaf, and four cloves; drop this in the 
soup; boil until the chicken is tender; 
then put in one can of okra, it will thicken 
the soup sufliciently. Season to taste. 
You may serve in each plate a spoonful 
of cooked rice or vermicelli — this is op- 
tional. 

34— CONSOMME PRINT ANIER. 
Make a nice consomme as directed for 



consomme imperial; add half cup of gfreen 
peas and as much of asparagus tips. 

35— CONSOMME AU QUENELLES. 

3 quarts of stock. 

I each of carrot, onion and turnip. 

I roasted fowl. 

The bones and remains of roast beef or 
veal can be used in place of the fowl. 

Put the vegetables in the soup kettle, 
lay the roasted fowl on these; cover with 
the stock; boil about an hour; strain and 
clarify with raw beef and egg. 

Make egg balls in the following man- 
ner: Take four yolks, hard boiled, pound 
them with an equal amount of butter; 
add to this enough flour to make a stifJ 
dough; make in balls size of grapes; poach 
these in hot water, and serve several in 
each plate. 



36— CONSOMME ROYAL. 
Make a rich amber-colored consomme 
like No. 35; make a custard with two eggs 
and half a cup of the consomme; bake in 
the oven with a cover on the dish so that 
the custard will not get brown on top. 
When done cut in shapes or squares; 
serve five or six in each plate. 



37_CONSOMME AU VERMICELLI. 
Made like No. 35; break in a handful 
of vermicelli and simmer gently about 
fifteen minutes. 

38-CREAM OF CHICKEN. 

I fowl. 

I onion. 

I quart of cream or new milk. 

}4 cup of butter. 

I cup of flour. 

Boil the fowl with the minced onion, 
you must have two quarts of broth when 
the fowl is done. Make a cream sauce 
with the butter, flour and milk as directed 
for cream of asparagus. When ready mix 
with the broth; strain through a fine 
sieve; cut in the white meat of the fowl 
in small pieces just as you would for salad; 
put them in the soup; season to taste. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



39— CREAM OF CELERY. 

1 head of celery. 

2 quarts of stock. 

I pint of cream or milk. 

1 minced onion. 
^ cup of flour. 
^ cup of butter. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Boil the stock with the chopped head 
of celery and minced onion about half an 
hour. Make a cream sauce with the flour, 
butter and milk; mix with the contents of 
the kettle; strain through a sieve; sprinkle 
on top some finely minced green celery 
tops. 

40-CREAM OF BARLEY. 

2 quarts of stock. 
I quart of milk: 

1 cupful of minced vegetables. 

Boil the stock with the minced vege- 
tables in it; boil the barley in two quarts 
of water; when done strain the water 
away; put the barley in the milk and let 
It simmer on the side of the range about 
half an hour, in the meantime strain the 
broth ; then rub through a sieve the puree 
of milk and barley; mix all together; 
serve hot with croutons. 

41— CONSOMME AU MACARONL 

Made like No. 35, with the addition of 
boiled macaroni cooked separately, and 
put in the consomme before serving. 

42— CONSOMME AU SHERRY. 
Consomme may be used with any other 
wine, Madeira, Port, Marsala, or Chan- 
tilly. Make a rich amber-colored con- 
somme, simply add any of the above 
mentioned wine and you have consomme 
au sherry, or whatever the wine may be. 

43— CREAM OF RICE. 

2 quarts of water. 

2 lbs. breast of lamb. 

I quart milk. 

I cup rice. 

Boil the water with a cut up carrot, 
turnip and onion, and breast of lamb. 
Cook the rice in the milk. When the 



breast of lamb is done take it out to make 
an entree. Strain the broth, and rub 
through a fine sieve, mix with the broth; 
add some butter or cream. 

44— OX TAIL, No. I. 

I ox tail. 

I carrot. 

I onion. 

I turnip. 

^^ cup pearl barley. 

Cut the ox tail in slices half an inch 
thick; cover with cold water; add the on- 
ion whole with two cloves stuck in; boil 
gently; when the meat is done take it out 
and lay it on a dish ready to serve in the 
plates; cook the barley separately, throw 
the water away; cut the turnip and carrot 
in small dice, cook them in a little water; 
put them with the barley in the soup; 
serve two or three slices of the ox tail in 
each plate. 

je 

45— ox TAIL No. 2. 

3 quarts of stock. 

I ox tail. 

I cup of flour. 

A bunch of aromatic herbs. 

I carrot. 

I turnip. 

3 outside stalks of celery. 

I onion. 

Salt, cayenne. 

Cut the ox tail in slices about an inch 
thick; set it on to boil with the stock; salt 
and pepper, cut the vegetables in round 
shapes with a small cutter; put the scraps 
of vegetables in the kettle with the bunch 
of herbs; when the meat is done strain 
through a very coarse strainer. Cook the 
shapes of vegetables in the strained soup ; 
when these are done thicken with the 
flour; color if necessary with a little burnt 
sugar. Serve three or four slices of the 
meat in each plate. 



46— PUREE OF MUSHROOM 
POMMERY. 

2 quarts of light stock. 
I partridge, or 3 quails. 
I can button mushrooms. 
^ cup of butter. 
}i cup of flour. 



AU 



i8 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



I quart of cream or new milk. 

1 wineglass full of champagne. 

Boil the birds in the stock until they 
fall apart, adding water if necessary, so 
as to have two quarts of stock after 
Straining. When the birds are done strain 
the liquor in a jar; save the meat for cro- 
quettes or any other entree. Make the 
cream sauce with cream or milk, butter, 
and flour as directed for cream of aspara- 
gus (No. 13). Mix the sauce with the 
contents of jar. Mince the mushrooms 
▼ery fine; put them in the soup; season to 
taste; add the wine just before serving. 

The word Pommery is probably an al- 
lusion to the celebrated champagne bear- 
ing the name of Pommery & Greno. 

47— PUREE OF BEANS. 

2 quarts of ordinary stock. 
^ pint of pea beans. 

I small onion. 

Prepared mustard. 

Salt and cayenne. 

Let the beans stand in cold water over 
night; boil in the stock with the onions 
finely minced, until they are thoroughly 
cooked; rub through a sieve; add a little 
stock or water if the puree is too thick. 
Just before serving stir in a tablespoonful 
of prepared mustard; season with salt and 
cayenne. 

Croutons or thin slices of toasted bread 
(optional). 

48-PlJREE OF SPLIT PEAS. 

1 lb. of split peas. 
% lb. salt pork. 

5 pints water. 

Steep the peas in water about two hours 
before cooking. Cut the pork in slices, 
lay in the bottom of the soup kettle, the 
split peas on top; cover with the water; 
boil gently until the peas are thoroughly 
cooked, rub through a sieve; season to 
taste, and serve with croutons. 

49— PUREE OF GREEN PEAS. 

2 pints of fresh green peas. 
2 quarts of light stock. 

% lb. salt pork. 
I carrot. 
I turnip. 



1 stalk of celery. 

Boil all together until the peas are 
cooked tender, take out the pork and 
vegetables, rub through a sieve; served 
very hot with thin buttered toast. 

50— PUREE OF CARROTS. 

3 quarts of ordinary stock. 
Yz doz. large carrots. 

1 lb. corned beef or ham. 
Soup vegetables if any handy. 

Boil all together; when the carrots are 
done take out the corned beef and other 
vegetables; mash the carrots through a 
sieve; thicken with a large spoonful of 
corn starch previously mixed in a little 
cold water, this will keep the carrot pulp 
from settling to the bottom. Season with 
minced red pepper and salt. Serve with 
croutons. 

5J-CORN CHOWDER. 
Should be made of green com, but if 
this cannot be had, use canned com. 

2 large potatoes. 

I pint of green com, or one can. 

1 onion. 

2 slices of salt pork. 

1 quart of milk. 

3 or 4 soda crackers. 

2 quarts of water. 
Salt and white pepper. 

Slice the potatoes very thin, mince the 
onion, boil in the water about one hour; 
then add the corn, milk and broken 
crackers. Cut the raw pork in small 
dice, fry it crisp, take extra care not to 
burn the fat in the frying pan ; throw the 
melted fat, and pieces of salt pork in the 
kettle. Season, and serve very hot. 

52— FISH CHOWDER. 
A 2 lb. fish, fresh haddock makes the 
best chowder, but any other kind of fish 
of a flaky nature will answer the purpose. 

4 large cooked potatoes. 
Yz cup oysters. 

I large onion. 

Butter, crackers, seasoning. 

Cook the fish in three quarts of water; 
strain and put the fish stock in the soup 
kettle, the fish on a plate to cool. Add 
the minced onion; boil ten minutes; cut 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



19 



the potatoes, put them in the chowder; 
cook the oysters in their own liquor; strain 
that in the kettle; cut the oj'sters, pick 
the fish, add the whole to the contents of 
the kettle; season with salt and white 
pepper. Just before serving crumble the 
crackers and put them in. 

53— CLAM CHOWDER, No. I. 
Proceed as directed for fish chowder, 
but instead of fish and oysters use one 
pint of clams and the liquor. Treat the 
clams as you would the oysters in mak- 
ing the fish chowder. 



54— CLAM CHOWDER No. 2. 

1 pint of clams. 

2 slices of pork. 

I pint raw sliced potatoes. 

I cup of tomato juice strained. 

I onion. 

Salt and pepper. 

Put two quarts of water in the soup ket- 
tle with the sliced potatoes, minced on- 
ion and tomato juice; boil about one hour, 
adding water if necessary, to have two 
quarts when done. Cut the salt pork in 
dice, fry it; add to the contents of the 
kettle. Cook the clams in a pint of wa- 
ter; when done strain the liquor in the 
chowder; cut the clams in three or four 
pieces; season to taste. Serve wdth crou- 
tons or broken crackers. 

55— POTAGE DE LIEVRE. 

Game Soup. 

1 good sized rabbit. 

2 quarts of ordinary stock. 
I onion. 

I slice of ham. 

r glass of Claret "Bordeaux." 

r cup of browned flour. 

I lemon. 

I teaspoonful mixed ground spices. 

Take a good sized saucepan; chop the 
ham and onions, fry them a light brown 
with a piece of butter the size of an egg; 
then put in the rabbit cut up in pieces; 
fry a few minutes longer; add the stock; 
boil until the meat is tender; strain in the 
soup kettle; add one quart of stock, the 
spices, half of the wine, and tlie browned 



flour; boil fifteen minutes longer; strain 
again; throw in the meat cut up in neat 
squares, the rest of the wine; season to 
taste; serve with a thin slice of lemon on 
top. 

56— SCOTCH MUTTON BROTH. 

3 quarts of mutton stock. 

yz cup of pearl barley. 

I large turnip. 

I onion. 

I cup of lean boiled mutton. 

Make stock with mutton bones and 
vegetables, when ready strain and skim. 
Cut the onion and turnip in small dice 
and cook in the broth. Boil the barley 
separately and throw away the dark wa- 
ter. Add the lean mutton; thicken slightly; 
season. 



57— BEEF BOUILLON. 

Bouillon is the French name for broth, 
a light beef tea without vegetables or sea- 
soning other than a little salt and pepper. 
For this a lean piece of beef should be 
used, and enough water to cover it; boil 
until the meat is tender; strain through a 
very coarse strainer so that the fine meat 
particles will go through; skim the fat oflf 
the top. 

This is not the aristocratic bouillon 
serv'ed in cups or cold. The article served 
in cups is consomme. 

58-CONSOMME EN TASSE. 
Consomme in Cups. 

1 veal shank. 

4 lbs. of lean beef. 

2 fowls. 

I roasted fowl. 

I bunch of soup vegetables. 

Cut the veal and beef; put them in the 
bottom of the kettle; the two fowls on 
top; cover with cold water; let it come to 
a boil, skim all that rises; then drop in 
the roasted fowl and vegetables; simmer 
from six to eight hours, or until the fowl 
falls apart; strain through a cheese cloth; 
put this stock away in a stone jar. Next 
day take one pound of lean beef; mince it; 
put it in the bottom of the kettle; pour 
the cold stock over, leaving the sediment 
in the jar; add the whites of four eggs, 



PRACTlCAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



let it come to a boil; when the egg is 
cooked strain through a jelly bag. Sea- 
son to taste; serve in cups with a slice of 
lemon on top. This should make about 
eight quarts of consomme. 

There is on sale in crockery stores a 
glass cup made purposely to serve con- 
somme; if these are used the consomme 
might be green or red, just for effect. 
( See soup coloring. ) 



59— ANDALUSIAN SOUP. 

2 quarts of ordinary stock. 
I pint of tomatoes. 

I clove of garlic. 

I cupful of mixed vegetables (onion, 
carrot, turnip, celery). 

I cupful of browned flour. 

Boil the stock with the vegetables in 
it. Stew down the tomatoes with a little 
sugar and butter the size of an egg. Mix 
the browned flour with the stock, then 
the stewed tomatoes; Strain through a 
fine sieve; simmer on the side of the 
range until it is bright. 

60— CAULIFLOWER SOUP. 

3 quarts of light stock. 
I cauliflower. 

I pint of tomatoes. 

Cut the cauliflower in small pieces; 
wash in cold water; boil it in the stock 
with the tomatoes. Any pieces of toma- 
toes larger than a walnut should be cut 
before they are put into the soup; when 
the cauliflower is done add a piece of 
butter; season to taste. 

6i— BISQUE DE HOMARD. 

Lobster Soup. 

3 quarts of light stock. 

I cup of cream, or ^ cup butter. 

J4 cup of rice. 

I medium sized boiled lobster. 

A basting spoonful of old Sherry. 

Cook the rice in the stock; rub through 
a sieve; add the lobster meat from the 
body and claws cut in pieces the size of a 
hazel nut; pound the coral, add it to the 
bisque with the cream or butter and 
Sherry; season; serve very hot. 



62— TERRAPIN SOUP. 
Cut up terrapins the same as a turtle, 
but instead of immersing the terrapin 
from ten to twenty minutes in boiling 
water let them boil until the sides crack 
open ; then proceed exactly as for green 
turtle, using the qiiantity of ingredients 
according to weight of the terrapin. 



63— BISQUE OF PARTRIDGE A LA 
DEWEY. 

3 quarts veal broth. 

2 roasted partridges. 

I pint of roasted chestnut meal. 

)4 glass of Amontillado wine. 

Mash the chestnuts through a coarse 
sieve into the veal broth ; cut off the meat 
from the roasted partridges, pound it 
smooth; add to the contents of the kettle; 
season with cayenne and salt. Put in 
the wine just before serving. Season to 
taste. 

64— TERRAPIN CREAM. 
A small terrapin. 

3 quarts veal broth. 

A bunch of soup vegetables. 

1 pint of cream. 
}4 tb. butter. 

6 yolks of eggs. 

A spoonful of chopped parsley. 

Boil the terrapin as directed in the pre- 
ceding recipe; keep the meat separate; 
strengthen the veal broth vpith the juice 
dripping out of the terrapin when clean- 
ing them. Strain the broth through a 
fine sieve; thicken with yolks of eggs, and 
add the terrapin meat and cream. Sprinkle 
the parsley on top. 

65-POOR MAN'S SOUP. 

2 quarts of water. 
}4 cup rice. 

I carrot. 

I onion. 

I slice pork. 

Cook the rice in the water with the on- 
ion and carrot cut in very small dice. 
Mince the salt pork very fine, fry a mo- 
ment and throw into the soup. Season 
to taste. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



66— C31EAM OF TAPIOCA. 

2 quarts of light stock. 
I quart of milk. 

I minced onion. 

I carrot. 

I stalk of celery. 

3 basting spoonfuls of crushed tapioca. 
Boil the vegetables in the stock, and 

the tapioca in the milk; strain the soup 
and add the cooked tapioca and milk; 
thicken lightly. 

67— COLORING FOR SOUP. 

A fine green color can be obtained with 
pounded spinach leaves, parsley, or celery 
stalks. Care must be taken to only scald 
these; high temperature will partly destroy 
the color. Red coloring may be obtained 
with the juice of tomatoes, or better still, 
with the juice of red beets, simply crushed 
raw and simmered a few minutes on the 
side of the range. For amber and brandy 
see recipe No. 7. 



68— CONCLUSIVE REMARKS 
ABOUT SOUP. 

When making soups of any kind, if the 
directions mention a certain amount of 
stock to be used, it must be understood 
that hot water should be added so as to 
have the quantity of stock given in the 
recipe when ready to finish the soup. 
Thickening for soup is made in two dif- 
ferent manners — one with the sifted flour 
in its natural state mixed with water; and 
the other with browned flour, either mixed 
with water or its equal quantity of butter. 

Soup is good warmed over, but a little 
care must be exercised in putting away 
the soup to be wanned over. Do not let 
it stand in the kettle in which it is pre- 



pared, but pour it either in a stone or a 
glass jar. When ready to use again re- 
move all the fat from the surface, and 
heat gently in a double dish. If you 
haven't a double dish handy, put the jar 
of soup in a pan of hot water on the side 
of the range. When putting the soup 
away in the jars do not cover it until cold, 
otherwise it will easily sour. Thick soups 
will stand more seasoning than clear 
soups. Soups and consommes of any 
kind should never be allowed to boil fast, 
but gently boil on the side of the range. 
If you desire the soup thicker than the 
recipes call for, you can easily have them 
so by adding a little more thickening — 
this is a matter of individual taste. 

It is an error to say ' 'bouillon in cups, ' ' 
it should be "consomme." Bouillon 
means a liquid in which something has 
been boiled. Consomme on the other 
hand is a rich extract of meat clarified by 
different methods, and rather costly. 
When serving consommes in cups at a 
party do not have it down "Bouillon." 
It would be an error. 

Soups are very healthy, easily assimi- 
lated, partly predigested, and its con- 
sumption is daily increasing. Their prep- 
aration is not so very difl&cult that you 
should get discouraged at the outset. 
When you become a good soup maker 
the results will more than repay you. 

An endless variety of soups can be made 
in different ways; for example, you can 
make a nice soup from the bony struc- 
ture of a roast turkey, with rice, or vege- 
tables; again with just the remains of the 
roast beef simply boiled in water, strain- 
ed and vegetables added. All these sim- 
ple homelike preparations I have pur- 
posely omitted, thinking it unnecessary 
to give recipes so generally known. 



Fish^ Lobster^ Crabs^ Clams; Oysters* 



Fish of any kind is particularly adapted 
for breakfast. It is recognized by scien- 
tists as food for the brain, and brain 
seems to be lacking with us poor mortals. 
But those looking for powers of endur- 
ance and muscular strength ( our modern 
college student, for example) open some 
other part of this book. 

69— BROILED BASS. 

Split the fish lengthwise in two, divide 
the sides in portions; roll in flour; while 
broiling baste with melted butter, the 
best means of doing this is to use a flat 
brush. If a good sized fish partly broil 
it and finish cooking in the oven. Season. 
When done serve with a little melted 
butter. 



70— FRIED BASS "WITH SALT PORK. 

Clean the fish, cut the heads off; if the 
fish is small leave it whole, if large cut it 
lengthwise, and across if necessary. Fry 
as many slices of salt pork as you have 
pieces of fish. Pepper and salt the fish, 
dip them in beaten eggs; fry in the salt 
pork fat. Serve a piece of the pork with 
each portion of fish, garnished with green 
celery tops, parsley or watercress. 

71— CATFISH. 
Cut the fish in small pieces; fry them in 
a pan wdth a very little l^butter. When 
they are brown and almost done take them 
out of the pan; lay them on square slices 
of bread; season; finish cooking in the 
oven. Serve with a spoonful of hot cat- 
sup or tomato sauce on top. 

72— BAKED STUFFED CODFISH. 

Clean the fish without cutting the head. 
Make a stufl&ng of equal parts of minced 



onion and bread panada (panada is bread 
soaked in water) and chopped salt pork; 
fill the inside of the fish with this dress- 
ing; lay the remainder of the dressing in 
a heap in the comer of the pan. Sprinkle 
a little com meal or cracker crumbs over 
the fish; dredge with salt and pepper; put 
it in to bake. After it begins to brown 
baste it very often with melted butter and 
water; serve whole. Garnish with water- 
cress and quarters of lemon. 

73— FRIED CODFISH. 

Proceed as with receipt No. 71, omitting 
the salt pork. Serve with a tartar or 
green bovaroise sauce. 

74— BOILED CODFISH, EGG SAUCE, 

Clean the codfish, remove the head 
(some persons consider the head a deli- 
cacy ) , boil the fish about a half hour; do 
not forget a handful of salt in the water. 
When the fish is cooking make a cream 
sauce with a pint of milk, one-half cup of 
flour, and as much of butter. Slice the 
eggs and stir them in. 

75— CROAKER. 

Croaker is a fish resembling the white 
perch. It is good either broiled, fried or 
cooked in batter. The fish should be split 
lengthwise; the bone removed; dredge 
with salt and pepper; dip in thin batter, 
and fry in deep lard or else roll in cracker 
meal the same as croquettes. Serve with 
a sauce. 

76— BROILED HALIBUT, SAUCE 
DOREE. 

Boil the halibut as you would the cod- 
fish. Make a sauce with equal parts of 
butter and water, thickened with a little 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



com starch, and drop in the yolks of hard 
boiled eggs. 



77— HALIBUT, A LA MARYLAND. 
Cut thin slices of chicken halibut; roll 
them in cracker meal ; dip them in beaten 
eggs; roll again in cracker meal ; fry in clar- 
ified butter, turn over to brown; serve 
with Lyonnaise potatoes. 



78— BROILED HALIBUT. 

Cut slices of halibut about an inch 
thick; lay them in a baking pan; brush 
over with butter; dredge with salt and 
pepper; cook them in the oven; when 
done mark with a red hot iron. Serve 
with a garnishing of lettuce shredded like 
cabbage, and quarters of lemon. 

79— BAKED LAKE TROUT. 

Prepare as for baked codfish v^th the 
head on. Make the following dressing: 

2 slices of fat pork. 

I can of button mushrooms. 

I quart of panada. 

Piece of butter the size of an egg. 

y^ cupful of minced onion. 

Cut the pork in small dice; put it in 
the frying pan with the onions and but- 
ter; then add the chopped mushrooms; 
fry a minute longer; mix with the pana- 
do; season with salt and pepper; stuff and 
sew up the fish. Do not use any butter 
for the basting, a little stock or water 
will answer the purpose. 



80— FRIED LAKE TROUT. 

Cut the fish across, do not split them 
as for bass. Beat two eggs with a spoon- 
ful of water; dip in the fish and fry in 
hissing hot lard; dredge with salt and 
pepper and lay in the oven until ready to 
serve. 

Fish may be fried by just rolling in 
flour but if you wish a perfect golden 
color, dip in beaten eggs. 

81— SALMON TROUT. 

Prepare exactly like lake trout. 



82— BROILED MACKEREL. 

Split the fish lengthwise; do not wash 
it, but wipe with a cloth; brush over with 
butter; dredge with salt and pepper; broil 
over a slow fire. Serve with Maitre 'd 
Hotel Butter. Garnish with watercress 
and quartered lemon. 

Mackerel can be cooked in many other 
ways (boiled, stewed and cooked whole ia 
a buttered paper over a slow fire) but 
broiled is the best way. 



83— MACKINAW TROUT. 

Split lengthwise and remove the bone; 
roll in flour. Broil it over a clear fire; 
when almost done, put the broiler in the 
oven over a pan; dredge with salt and 
pepper; baste it often until ready to serve. 
Looks well with a border of potatoes an 
persil (see index for recipe). 



84— BOILED MUSCALLONGE. 

This fish can be either fried or broiled, 
but is preferable boiled. Put the fish in 
water with an onion, three cloves, salt and 
pepper. Serve with a cream sauce and 
potato Parisienne. 

85— BAKED BLUEFISH A LA 
MAUVILLIER. 

A four pound bluefish. 

yi pint pale sherry or sauteme. 

% tt). butter. 

I large onion. 

I pint chicken broth or light stock. 

A bunch of aromatic herbs. 

Split the fish lengthwise, remove the 
bone; lay in a buttered pan; put in the 
wine, minced onions, herbs, and stock; 
spinkle over with salt and pepper. Cover 
the pan with a buttered paper. When 
the fish is done put it in another pan; add 
the remainder of the stock to the liquor 
left in the pan in which the fish was 
cooked; throw in the butter; thicken with 
flour and the yolks of three eggs; put in 
more salt and pepper if necessary, then 
the wine; strain this over the fish. Serve 
with French fried potatoes. 



«4 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKHRY 



86— BAKED STUFFED BLUEFISH 
A LA CREOLE. 

Clean the fish; stuff it with the force- 
ment dressing found in the following rec- 
ipe: Sew it up; put in the pan a pint of 
tomato, one niinced onion, a piece of but- 
ter the size of an egg, scraps of ham, salt, 
pepper and mace, a cupful of cut vegeta- 
bles; add a pint of broth; when done, 
thicken with browned flour. Strain and 
serve the gravy separately. 

87— STUFFING FOR FISH. 
^ lb. minced cooked meat. 
X Ih. bread ponada. 
I teaspoonful powdered .sage. 
)4 ^- beef suet. 
Minced rind of half a lemon. 
Salt and pepper. 
Chop the suet fine and mix all together. 

88— BROILED BLUE FISH. 

Split the fish; remove the bone by cut- 
ting on each side; brush over with butter; 
gfrease the broiler with a piece of fat pork 
so the fish will not stick to it; broil over 
a clear fire; lift it from the fire with the 
egg lifter; lay it on a piece of board kept 
for that purpose; cut in portions by a 
sharp blow with a heavy knife. 

J* 

89— FRIED PAN FISH. 
Roll tlie fish in flour; dredge witli salt 
and pepper. Serve with Potato, a la 
Creme. Garnish with parsley. 

90— FRIED PERCH. 

The perch are generally sold already 
cleaned, but if you happen to get them 
otherwise, they can be either skinned or 
scaled, but the former way is the best. 
Frj' tliem whole rolled in flour. 



9 J— PERCH SOUCHY. 

Split the fish; lay the pieces in a pan 
with just enough water to cover them; 
put in an onion cut in quarters; a small 
bunch of parsley, a minced carrot, salt 
and pepper. Simmer on tlie side of the 
range; skim all tliat rises. Ser\-e on 



pieces of buttered toast soaked with the 
liquor from the pan. 



92— BROILED PICKEREL. 

Split the fish lengthwise; brush over 
with butter, season, and broil over a slow 
fire. Serve with Julienne potatoes. 

Pickerel is good fried, boiled and baked, 

93— PIKE A LA VENITIENNE. 
Lay the fish whole in the baking pan- 
score across every two inches. Mince a 
carrot, an onion, and a celery stalk and 
throw them in the pan. Cut some fat 
pork in strips the size of a pencil, about 
four inches long; add a pint of stock or 
water; shake salt and pepper all over; 
bake in a hot oven; baste every five min- 
utes. When done take the fish out; tip 
the pan so as to get the sauce in one end; 
skim off the fat; add a cup of stock, two 
tablespoonfuls of Heinz's tomato catsup; 
boil a few minutes; thicken and strain. 
Serve the sauce on the the fish, with a 
border of mashed potatoes sprinkled with 
chopped parsley. 



94— FILLET OF SOLE. 
Fillets are boneless strips of fish ob- 
tained by cutting out the spine. Lay the 
fish on the piece of board kept for the pur- 
pose; cut off the head, then the flesh from 
one side of the spine; the spine is then 
exposed; lay j'our hand firmly upon it; 
cut it out by running the knife directly 
nnder. Roll the fillets as you would a 
jelly cake; fasten with a couple of tooth- 
picks. Trim one end of the rolls so that 
they will stand up; season; dip in beaten 
egg and cracker meal; place in a baking 
pan; half fill the pan with hissing hot 
lard; bake brown in the oven; when done 
drain carefully. Serve with potatoes. 
(See index for fancy potatoes). 

95— BROOK TROUT. 

Are better broiled or fried. Remove 
the entrails; leave the heads; rub the 
broiler with a pork or ham rind; wrap 
the head wath buttered paper; baste with 
butter while broilinjf ; when nearlv done 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



25 



remove the paper from the head. Serve 
on a lettuce leaf with lemon. Cooked in 
this manner the trout appear in all their 
beauty. 

96— BOILED WHITEFISH, CAPER 
SAUCE. 

Scale and clean the whitefish; remove 
the head; place in a fish kettle, and put in 
just enough water to cover the fish; put 
in an onion, two or three cloves, and the 
juice of one lemon. When done take it 
out on the drainer. Serve with caper 
sauce, and plain boiled potatoes. (See 
index for caper sauce). 

97— BROILED WHITEFISH. 

Split the fish; remove the backbone; 
cut in portions; broil in a fine wire broiler. 
Serve it hot from the broiler with an oys- 
ter sauce. 

9&-WHITEFISH A L'ESPAGNOLE. 

Clean and cut the fish in portions; boil 
it in a sauce made of one pint of ordinary 
stock, one quart of tomatoes, one minced 
onion, piece of butter the size of a lemon, 
salt and cayenne. Serve the sauce in which 
it was boiled with potatoes a la Duchesse. 



99— BAKED STUFFED WHITEFISH. 
If you wish to serve this fish whole, the 
head must not be removed, but wrapped 
in buttered paper before it goes in the 
oven. Make a stufiing of one-half pound 
of sausage, one cupful of chopped celery, 
one pound of Ijread panada, and a cupful 
of chopped apples; season with salt and 
pepper. Send it in with a border of frizzled 
onions. 

too— FISH A LA BECHAMEL. 
Fish of any kind can be cooked in this 
manner. Anything cooked in a cream 
sauce is a la Bechamel. When the fish is 
to be baked in this manner the cream 
sauce must be made before the fish is put 
in the oven to bake, otherwise if broth or 
milk are put in the pan to be thickened 
when the fish is done, the result will be 
unsatisfactory. 



JOJ— FISH EN BELLEVUE. 

Bellevue means pretty sight. Any fish, 
either cold or hot, sent to the table elabo- 
rately decorated may be called En Belle- 
vue. 

I02— FISH A LA MAITRE D' HOTEL. 
A la Maitre d' Hotel sauce is simply 
melted butter and chopped parsley poured 
warm over the fish. 

103— FISH A LA CARDINAL. 
This sauce is probably named in allu- 
sion to the robe of Roman cardinals. Fish 
of any kind .served with red ornaments or 
red sauce may be named in this manner. 
Butter sauce can be colored with lobster, 
coral or shrimp. 

104— FISH A LA CHAMFORD. 
Fish of any kind cut in portions, spread 
over with forcemeat or quenelle mixture. 
Spread the forcemeat over the portions of 
the fish; carefully lay them in the buttered 
pan; brush over with beaten egg; bake. 
Served with a sauce and potatoes. 



105— FISH A LA MORNY. 
Fry small portions of fish ; arrange 
them in the middle of a flat earthen bak- 
ing dish. Take one quart of mashed po- 
tatoes, mix with the yolks of two eggs, a 
pinch of mace, salt, and white pepper. 
Arrange the potato in a high border all 
around the fish; press a design with a fork 
or anything else; brush all over with 
beaten egg; brown in the oven. 



106— FISH A LA TARTAR. 
Either boiled or fried. Serve with tar- 
tar sauce, which is made with one-half 
cup or more of mayonaise thinned with 
lemon juice, minced gherkin and onions 
added. 

Jt 

107— FISH A L' ITALIENNE. 
Is fish plain baked and served with 
brown tomato sauce and potato croquettes. 
(See index for sauce and potatoes.) 



26 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Take one quart of tomatoes. 

2 onions. 

I thin slice of fat ham. 

% teaspoonful clove and allspice. 

I pint browu gravy. 

Dash of sherry. 

Mince the onion; fry with the chopped 
slice of fat ham; when slightly browned 
add the tomatoes and spices; stew gently 
half an hour, or until the contents of the 
pan are thick; put in the brown gravy; 
rub through a sieve; add the sherry; sea- 
son to taste. 



}08— FISH A L' INDIENNE. 
Baked or boiled fish ser^^ed with a curry 
sauce, and a border of rice. Take the 
liquor from the fish pan, add stock to it if 
necessary to make one pint; mix a tea- 
spoonful of curry; set it on to boil with a 
piece of butter the size of an egg; season 
with salt and pepper; thicken with a little 
corn starch; boil the rice according to di- 
rections given in this book. 

109— FISH A LA CHEVALIERE. 
Prepare the fish in individual portions; 
lay them in a buttered pan; dredge with 
salt and pepper. Make a mixture of equal 
parts of cracker meal and grated cheese; 
spread this all over the fish; bake brown. 
Serve hot and crisp without sauce. 

no— FISH A LA JOINVILLE. 

Named after the Prince de Joinville. It 
is baked fish, ser\'ed with the following 
sauce: 

I pint of white or cream sauce. 

I tablespoonful of sherry. 

yi cup shrimp. 

% cup button mushrooms. 

yi. cup of oysters. 

Boil the oysters in their own liquor, add 
to the thick white sauce, this will thin it 
to proper consistency; put in the shrimps, 
mushrooms and sherry; add a little more 
seasoning if needed. Ser\'e ver^' hot. 

J* 

J U— FISH A LA PRESIDENCE. 

Wipe the fish dr}'; leave the head on; 
partly divide into individual portions by 



pushing a pointed knife through the bone; 
rub the fish inside and outside with salt 
and pepper; butter the baking pan; put in 
the fish, with two cups of claret wine, one 
onion cut in two with a clove stuck in 
each half, a bunch of savor>' and thyme. 
Baste the fish very frequently while bak- 
ing, the gelatinous substance oozing from 
the fish mixed with the wine form a nice 
glaze. When done lay it on a hot platter. 
Add two cups of broth to the gravy in the 
pan. Mix in a sauce pan a spoonful each 
of browned flour and butter; add the 
gravy gradually until it is all in; strain 
and keep hot. Cut toasted bread in dia- 
xnond shapes, lay them all around the 
fish; pour the gravy on the toast; garnish 
with slices of lemon; sprinkle finely 
minced parsley over all. 



112— FISH A LA RUSSE. 
A good way to cook fish when fresh to- 
matoes can be easily obtained. Take a 
three or four pound fish and split it length- 
wise; lay it in a buttered pan; salt and 
pepper. Take eight or ten small round 
tomatoes; cut a thin slice from the stem 
end of the tomatoes, scoop out the inside 
with a teaspoon; fill them with turkey 
dressing or any other kind of stuffing; put 
these all around the fish in the baking 
pan. While the fish and tomatoes are 
cooking make a puree with a can of to- 
matoes, one onion, salt and pepper, stewed 
thick and rubbed through a sieve. When 
the fish is done lift it from the pan ; lay it 
on a platter; glaze with the puree of to- 
mato. Arrange the baked tomatoes all 
around with bunches of watercress, pars- 
ley, or lettuce between. 



113— FISH A LA BOULANGERE. 
Any kind of fish of a flaky texture can 
be cooked in this style. Take a three 
pound fish, boil it with a little salt and 
pepper in the water; when done take the 
fish out and let it cool sufficiently to pick 
it from the bones, this should be done 
carefully, avoid breaking the flakes. Cut 
the top from a stale loaf of bread, scoop 
the crumbs out, this leaves a hard crust 
about half an inch thick resembling a 
shoe box with the cover off; cut the edge 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



27 



in large ornamental notches about 
an inch apart and an inch deep ; 
brush this all over with butter, put it in 
the oven; when hot and changing color 
take it out, and repeat three or four times, 
or until the crust is the color of maple 
sirup and very crisp. Heat a pint of cream, 
as much of milk, and a piece of butter the 
size of an egg. Place the flakes of fish 
inside the box shaped crust; open a can of 
French Peas (petit pois) heat them in the 
can; drain off the water and strew over 
the flakes. Season the cream mixture and 
pour over. It may take more of the 
cream mixture, according to the size and 
quality of the baked crust. Ser\-e a piece 
of the crust with a spoonful of the filling. 

114— FISH AU GRATIN. 

Is fish baked with cracker crumbs on 
top. Split the fish; lay it in a buttered 
pan; brush over with egg; sprinkle sifted 
crumbs all over; baste often. It must be 
brown and crisp. Serve with sauce. 

115— SCALLOPED FISH. 
Any kind of baked or boiled fish left 
over. Grease a baking pan, cover the 
bottom with sifted crumbs (either veiy 
dry bread, or cracker) pick the fish; cover 
the crumbs with a thick la3'er; put more 
crumbs on top; thoroughly saturate with 
milk or chicken broth; drop pieces of 
butter all over. Season with salt and 
pepper. Bake brown. 

116— FISH A LA LYONAISE. 
Cold fish ser\'ed with potato salad all 
around. Garnished with lettuce. (See 
recipe for plain potato salad. ) 

U7~ KIPPERED OR SMOKED 

SALMON. 

Cut the kippered salmon in thin slices; 

garnish with watercress or parsley. Can 

also be warmed in butter, salt, pepper and 

vinegar. 

US— BOILED SALT MACKEREL. 
Cut the fish in portions; .steep over night 
in cold water; cook it in hot water withoiit 



boiling. Serve with Maitre d' Hotel but- 
ter and some fancy potatoes. 



n9— BROILED SALT MACKEREL. 

Steep the fish in cold water about 12 
hours; then hang it up to dry as many 
hours; brush over with butter; broil like 
any other fish. Serve with lemon, or a 
spoonful of hot seasoned cream. 

12a-BAKED STUFFED FISH. 

Any kind of fish weighing more than 
three pounds can be stuffed and baked 
with a dressing as for poultry, or other 
kinds described in this book. If it is to 
be served whole, it looks better sewed up, 
and the head left on. Always put water, 
minced onion, butter or salt pork in the 
pan. The fish should be baked with 
frequent bastings. It can be served either 
with or without sauce. 

i21— CODFISH BALLS. 
Steep in cold water enough codfish to 
make a half cupful when picked. Boil 
four large potatoes, when done mash 
them, mix in the codfish, a spoonful of 
melted butter and one egg. Season with 
pepper. Make in round balls, roll them 
in flour and fry in hot lard. 



122— CODFISH IN CREAM. 
Steep and boil one-half pound of cod- 
fisli; when cool pick it very fine; mix 
with one pint of cream sauce made with- 
out salt. 



123— SALT nSH. 

There are many varieties of salt and 
smoked fish — herring. Finnan Haddie, 
Yarmouth bloaters, smoked whitefish, 
salt whitefish, and numerous others. All 
can be made ready in about the same way. 
It must be well steeped in cold water fre- 
quently changed, and must not be boiled 
a long time, otherwise it becomes tough. 
Salt fish properly cooked is simply sim- 
mered on the side of the range. Use salt 
sparingly in the preparation of the ac- 
companying sauces. 



28 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



J24— BROWN OYSTER SAUCE. 

^ cup oysters. 

y^ cup of flour. 

Yz cup of butter. 

I pint of soup stock, or gravy from the 
fish pan, roasted turkey or chicken. 

Brown the flour and butter in the oven; 
add the stock or gravy from the baking 
pan gradually until all is in, then the 
oysters, and let simmer a few minutes. 
Add a spoonful of mushroom catsup. Salt 
and pepper. 

J25— BUTTER SAUCE No. i. 

I pint of water. 

Yz cup of butter. 

Y, cup of flour. 

Melt the butter in a sauce pan ; sift in 
the flour; stir them together, and when 
it begins to bubble add the hot water a 
little at a time, stir it quickly until the 
water is all in. Do not let it boil after it 
is made. It may be thinned down if pre- 
ferred. 

126— BUTTER SAUCE No. 2. 

I pint light stock. 

Water and flour thickening. 

Yi. cup butter. 

Salt. 

When the stock boils thicken to about 
the consistency of cream. Take from the 
fire and beat in the softened butter; do 
not let it boil again. 

127— FRIED SHAD ROE. 

Take out the roes without breaking; put 
them in cold salted water till wanted; make 
it dry by wiping; roll it in flour; season, 
and fry in butter; turn over to brown. 
Sen^e on toast with 'a border~of green 
peas. 

128— SCRAMBLED SHAD ROE. 
Melt a little butter in a fr3dng pan; 
break in two eggs to each roe, scramble 
in the pan; season with salt and white 
pepper. Serve on toast. 

}29— IMPERIAL FISH SAUCE. 
1 raw yolk of egg. 
A piece of butter the size of an egg. 



I tablespoonful of India soy; if not ob- 
tainable, use mushroom or walnut catsup 
instead. 

3 minced olives. 

Little cayenne and salt. 

130— HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 
Yz cup of butter. 
Y basting spoonful of vinegar. 

1 yolk of ^%'g. 
Essence of anchovy. 
Cayenne. 

Soften the butter slightly; warm the 
vinegar and add to the butter only a little 
at a time; when thoroughly mixed add 
the yolk, essence of anchovy, and cay- 
enne. Worcestershire sauce may be used 
instead of anchovy. 

J3 1— ANCHOVY. 

A little fish from the Mediterranean 
possessing a high flavor, preserved in 
brine or oil. Serve cold like sardines, or 
spread on toast like caviar. There is also 
ancho\'y paste used for steak and sand- 
witches; and the essence used for flavor- 
ing fish sauce and mock turtle soup. 

J32— CANAPES OF ANCHOVIES. 

Cut slices of bread in shapes large 
enough to partly cover the bottom of a 
platter; fry like croutons; spread with 
anchovy paste. Sprinkle over with cap- 
ers; lay .slices of hard boiled eggs around. 

133— HOLLANDAISE SAUCE No. 2. 
Make butter sauce like No. 125, add 
two jolks of eggs; cook them without 
boiling, add the juice of o^ie lemon. 

J3-^HOT TARTAR SAUCE. 

2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil. 
Yz teacup of vinegar. 

Piece of butter the size of an egg. 
r finely minced onion. 

3 yolks of eggs. 

A spoonful of minced olives or gherkin. 

Boil the onion in the vinegar about five 
minutes, put in the butter, then the beaten 
yolks, take off from fire immediately. Sea- 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



29 



son with salt and cayenne, whip in the 
oil a few drops at a time. 

J35— SAUCE ROBERT. 

I minced onion. 

I cup of brown sauce. 

Piece of butter the size of an egg. 

I spoonful of vinegar. 

I tablespoonful of prepared mustard. 

Fry the onion in the butter until light 
yellow, put in the brown sauce, simmer a 
few minutes, then add the vinegar, then 
the mustard, season with cayenne. 

136— OLIVE FISH SAUCE. 
Take a pint of fish gravy from the pan 
it has baked in, add to it one pint of to- 
matoes, one onion stuck with two cloves, 
and a pinch of cayenne, boil this down to 
about one pint, throw in a half teaspoon- 
ful of curry powder and a piece of butter 
the size of an e^g, thicken lightly with 
browned flour, strain through a coarse 
sieve, throw in a half cup of cut olives. 



137— BECHAMEL SAUCE. 

I cup of rich chicken broth. 

Piece of butter the size of a lemon. 

I cup of thick cream. 

I spoonful of flour. 

Stir the flour and butter over the fire, 
when it bubbles add the stock to it a little 
at a time, stir smooth while it cooks, add 
the cream last, take it off before it boils 
again. 

138— BORDELAISE SAUCE. 

1 cup of claret "Bordeaux." 
X clove of garlic. 

Slice of lean ham. 
Cayenne, mace and cloves. 
^ lemon. 

2 cups of brown sauce. 

Mince the ham very fine, boil it with 
the brown sauce, wine, two cloves, a pinch 
of mace, cayenne and the garlic; when 
one-fourth has boiled away strain in 
another sauce pan, let it stand at the side 
of the range a few minutes, skim and add 
the juice of lemon, boil gently and skim 
once more. 



139— WHITE CELERY SAUCE. 

Cut and boil five stalks of celery twenty- 
five minutes, green coarse stalks will not 
answer the purpose, it must be white and 
tender. When done strain and mix with 
a pint of cream sauce. (See recipe No. 
140.) 

140— PLAIN WHITE OR CREAM 
SAUCE. 

I pint of milk. 

I heaping tablespoonful of flour. 

Piece of butter the size of a lemon. 

Salt. 

Stir all the flour and butter in a pan, 
when it bubbles add the boiling milk a 
little at a time. Salt to taste. 

141— SHRIMP SAUCE. 

I pint light stock or chicken broth. 

% cup of butter. 

yi teacup of flour. 

I yolk of egg. 

I teaspoonful of lemon juice. 

yi can of shrimps. 

Salt and cayenne. 

Put all the flour and half the butter in 
a sauce pan, stir them over the fire, when 
bubbling add the hot slock gradually, 
stir smooth while cooking, take off the 
range, add the 3^olk and rest of the but- 
ter, whip until the butter disappears, add 
the shrimps and lemon juice, season. 

142— PARSLEY SAUCE. 
Make butter sauce No. 125, with a bast- 
ing spoonful of chopped parsley. 

143— LOBSTER SAUCE. 
Butter sauce No. 125. Pound the coral 
and the reddest part of the lobster, throw 
them in the hot sauce, stir in the yolk of 
one &gg, rub through a coarse strainer, 
season and add one-third cupful of lobster 
cut evenly if pos.sible, and juice of half a 
small lemon. 



144— HOT MAITRE D' HOTEL 
SAUCE. 
Butter sauce No. 125 thinned with half 



30 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY, 



a cup of water, the juice of a lemon, and 
a sprinkle of parsley dust. 



145— WHITE OYSTER SAUCE. 

Yz cup of oysters. 

I quart of light stock, or water. 

Yj, cup of butter. 

Yz cup of flour. 

Pour the boiling stock over the oysters, 
stir the butter and flour over the fire, 
when it bubbles drain the oysters and add 
the stock gradually. It will be thick 
•when done, but the oysters will thin it 
down. Season to taste. Oysters .should 
never be cooked hard. 

146— EGG SAUCE. 
Make butter sauce No. 125, whip in the 
yolks of two eggs, slice four hard boiled 
yolks, and mix. 

H7— POTATOES. 

In French called pomme de terre (earth 
apple) but abbreviated to pommes on all 
hotel bills of fare. 



148— POTATOES DUCHESSE. 
Pommes Duchesse. 
Boil four or five large potatoes, when 
done mash them, mix with the yolk of one 
egg, mace, salt and white pepper. \Vhen 
mashed perfectly smooth roll it out on a 
floured board, cut out in leaf shape, mark 
the tops with a fork, butter a pan, lay 
them in, brush over with beaten egg, bake 
in a hot oven. Part may be rolled leaf- 
shaped, and the rest made like apples or 
pears with a clove -iv.ck in one end, and 
a piece of truflle to iir.itate the stem, used 
for garnisiiirsg. 



149— POTATOES BOULETTE. 
A potato spoon or cutter must be used, 
scoop out a pint of potatoes the size of 
hazelnuts, stew them in half lard and 
butter until they are done, drain and set 
them in a pan in the oven till they are 
light brown, sprinkle with salt. 



15a— POTATOES DAUPHINE. 
Prepare potatoes as for recipe No. 148, 
make flat oval croquettes size of a silver 
dollar, dip in &^^ and cracker meal and 
fry a nice color. 

151— FRIZZED POTATOES. 
Slice raw potatoes in strings as long as 
possible and the thickness of a pencil, fry 
in hot lard, drain and sprinkle with salt. 

152— POTATO GENEVOISE. 
I cupful of mashed potatoes. 
Piece of butter the size of an egg. 
Yz cup of milk. 

Egg. 

I tablespoonful of flour. 

Mash the warm potatoes through a 
sieve, mix in the butter, the flour and 
milk with the beaten Q^^, pour in a 
buttered pan, bake light brown and serve 
in square portions with fish. 

153— POTATOES SABATIER. 
Use a scalloped vegetable knife, cut 
thin slices of raw potatoes, then cross- 
wise, fry in hot lard; they are done when 
they float, put them to drain in a colander, 
sprinkle with salt. 



154— POTATOES HOLLANDAISE. 

Cut raw potatoes in quarters, score 
the.se to make them appear ribbed, boil 
in salted water, drain them without break- 
ing, sprinkle with melted butter, salt, 
lemon juice and parsley dust. Ser\'ewith 
fish. 

155— LYONAISE POTATOES. 
Mince a large onion, fry in a little but- 
ter to a light brown. Slice a quart dipper 
full of cold potatoes, fry these in the pan 
with the onion. Salt and pepper. To be 
good, must be evenly colored by slow 
frjnng. 

<^ 

i56~POTATOES A LA MAITRE 
D' HOTEL. 

1 quart of cooked potatoes. 

2 cups of hot water. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



31 



I basting spoonful of vinegar. 

I basting spoonful butter. 

I basting spoonful minced parsley. 

% cup of flour thickening. 

Cut the potatoes in small pieces about 
the size of lima beans, mix the other in- 
gredients, season with salt and white pep- 
per, thicken, pour over the potatoes, let 
come to a boil. 

157— SARATOGA CHIPS. 
Good large mealy potatoes are required 
to make fine chips. A cutter can be 
bought at a nominal sum, but if you do 
not possess one, shave the potatoes as 
thin as paper, steep them in ice water 
about two hours, dry them in a cloth, fry 
in hot lard a few at a time, when they 
rise they are done, and if the lard was hot 
enough they will be sufficiently colored; 
sprinkle with salt while they are still 
hot. 



158— POTATOES SAUTES. 
Cold boiled potatoes cut in squares, fry 
in butter, salt and pepper. 

159— MJNCED POTATOES. 
Chop cold boiled potatoes almost as 
fine as hash, season them with salt and 
white pepper; put a little butter in a 
small frying pan (egg pan ) , put in enough 
chopped potatoes to make a la5^er about 
an inch thick; fry slow without stirring 
till the bottom is brown and crisp, turn 
over on a round plate, the brown side on 
top. 

160— POTATOES A LA JULIENNE. 

Cut raw potatoes in fine shredlike 
straws, fry in hot lard quickly, dredge 
with salt and parsley dust. 

161— POMME A L' ANGLAISE. 
Cut one quart cold boiled potatoes as 
for recipe No. 156. Make a cream sauce, 
dilute it to about the thickness of cream. 
Cut one-half cup of bacon in small dice, 
fry it crisp without burning, add this to 
the cream sauce; pour over the potatoes. 



162— MANCHESTER POTATOES. 

Take nice large clean potatoes, wash 
and brush them vigorously, but do not 
break the jacket, bake, and when almost 
done cut open one end; don't cut clear 
across, but enough to open and scoop out 
most of the inside. Make a filling with 
half the potato scooped from the inside, 
as much of grated cheese, one yolk of 
e^g for every cupful of filling; season 
with salt and pepper. Fill the potatoes, 
close the end, turn the potatoes so they 
will stay closed, bake a few minutes 
longrer. 



J63— LOBSTERS. 

Before this book is completed it may be 
that the legislature will have passed a law 
prohibiting the fishing of lobsters. The 
enormous consumption of lobsters, and 
the injudicious catch of young lobsters 
menace their complete destruction. But 
if such a law becomes a reality, we hope 
that its necessarj' existence will be of 
short duration. 

161— HOW TO BOIL LOBSTERS. 
Drop the live lobster in a kettle of boil- 
ing water with a half pound of salt to 
every gallon of water. If the lobster is 
large it will take forty minutes to boil, if 
small, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. 
Take it out of the kettle, when cooled 
sufiiciently keep it on ice. 



165— BROILED LIVE LOBSTER. 
I If you have any objection to broil the 
lobster immediately after splitting it, you 
may kill it by thrusting a sharp pointed 
knife in the back of the head where it 
joins the body, and lay it aside a short 
time until the mechanical contractions of 
the members have ceased. Split the 
lobster from head to tail, put it on the 
broiler the flat side down; it will cook in 
ten or fifteen minutes. Serve with lemon. 

166 -LOBSTER CUTLET. 
yi pint of lobster meat. 
6 or 8 lobster claws. 
Cracker crumbs. 



32 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



I basting spoonful of vinegar. 

I teaspoonful of salt and pepper mixed. 

Piece of butter the size of an egg. 

Mash the lobster with the vinegar, but- 
ter, salt and pepper until it is almost a 
paste, divide in as many portions as you 
have claws ( 6 or 8) , make each portion in 
the shape of a half pear, by moulding be- 
tween the floured hands; stick a claw in 
each one, it will then look like a French 
lamb chop, roll in sifted cracker crumbs, 
dip in beaten egg, and roll in cracker 
crumbs again, fry in hissing hot lard. 
Serve with tomato sauce. 



167— LOBSTER CROQUETTES. 

I can of lobster. 

I teaspoonful of pepper and salt mixed. 

I tablespoonful of vinegar. 

I tablespoonful of thick cream sauce. 

Chop the lobster meat, add the other 
ingredients and enough sifted cracker 
crumbs to enable to shape it in cones the 
size of an egg; bread like lobster cote- 
lettes. Serve with hot tartar sauce. 

168— LOBSTER IN SHELL. 
Ice cold boiled lobster split as for 
broiled lobster, but crack the claws. Serve 
on a large platter, garnished with parsley 
or watercress and lemon. 



169— CANNED LOBSTER A LA 
VINAEGRETTE. 
Heap the contents of a can of lobster on 
a platter, arrange quarters of hard boiled 
eggs all around. Mix two basting spoon- 
fuls of vinegar and one of olive oil, season 
■with salt and pepper and pour over the 
lobster. , 

170— LOBSTER EN CANAPE. 
Cut the lobster in good sized pieces, 
melt a piece of butter in a frying pan, put 
in the lobster, season with salt and pep- 
per, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, when 
■warm serve on buttered toast in plain or 
fancy shapes. 

171— LOBSTER PATTIES. 
Made like oyster patties with the ad- 



dition of lemon juice. See different di- 
rections for oyster patties, 

172— SCALLOPED LOBSTER. 
Butter a baking pan and cover the bot- 
tom with fine bread crumbs, put on this a 
layer of chopped lobster, dredge with salt 
and pepper. Alternate the layer of crumbs 
and lobster until the dish is full, with 
crumbs on top; strew pieces of butter all 
over the top, saturate with chicken broth 
or milk; bake light brown. 

173— DEVILED LOBSTER. 
Take out all the meat from a boiled 
lobster, reserving the coral, season with 
mustard, cayenne, salt and Worcester 
sauce. Put the sauce pan on a hot fire 
until it begins to boil, there should be 
just enough water to keep from burning; 
cover the sauce pan, pound the coral, 
moistening with vinegar until it is thin 
enough to pour easily, then stir it into 
the sauce pan with a spoonful of butter, 
when it boils once more take it off from 
the hot fire. 



174— POTATOES AU PERSILS. 
Small new potatoes boiled in salted wa- 
ter, drained, sauteed (fried) in butter 
with chopped parsley or fennel. 

175— POTATOES A LA CREAM. 
Cut raw potatoes in forms with a column 
cutter, boil in salted water, heaped in a 
dish with a cream sauce poured over. 

176— SCALLOPED LOBSTER EN 

COQXIILLE. 
Make the lobster croquette mixture, 
fill the pieces of shell with crumbs on 
top, bake brown. Serve with quarters of 
very sour oranges. 



J77— SHRIMPS. 

Drop the live shrimps in boiling water 

lightly salted. Just after putting the 

shrimps in the boiling water throw in a 

cupful of sherry, it will greatly improve 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



33 



their flavor, boil eight minutes, cool and 
set on ice. 

Live shrimps are rather difficult to ob- 
tain, but the canned shrimps are gene- 
rally of excellent quality, readily obtain- 
able, and answer all purposes very 
satisfactorily. 

178— SAUTE OF SHRIMPS ON 
TOAST. 

I can of shrimps. 

Piece of butter the size of an egg. 

Salt and pepper. 

Dash of sherry. 

Melt the butter in the frying pan, put 
in the shrimps with the seasoning ingre- 
dients when warmed through. Serve on 
slices of buttered toast. 

179— SHRIMP SALAD. 
Salads will be found all in another 
part of this book. See index. 

180— PYRAMID OF SHRIMP ROLLS. 
Butter thin slices of fresh bread (a 
square loaf preferred), trim off the crust, 
spread with mayonnaise or mustard dress- 
ing. Cut some shrimps in coarse pieces, 
sprinkle on the buttered bread, roll up, 
and pile them high on a fancy dish; gar- 
nish with parsley or lettuce. 



I8J— CRABS. 

There are many varieties of crabs, many 
are edible, but only two kinds are gene- 
rally known, the deep sea crab and the 
soft shell crab. The former is served and 
used like lobsters. Every part of the 
soft shell crab is eaten but the sand 
pouch. 

182— HOW TO BOIL CRABS. 
Drop in boiling water with plenty of 
salt. The large crab will take about 
thirty minutes, the soft shell crab will 
cook in twelve minutes. 

183— BOILED SOFT SHELL CRABS. 

Boil the crabs as directed in No. 182, 

remove the small claws and sand pouch, 



and serve hot with tomato sauce, catchup, 
hot tartar, or any other spicy sauce. 



184— FRIED SOFT SHELL CRABS. 
Dip the crabs in beaten eggs, then in 
cracker dust, fry in hot lard. They are 
cooked when they are light brown and 
the claws are crisp enough to break. 
Serve with cold tartar sauce. Garnish 
with watercress. 



185— CRABS A LA VINAIGRETTE. 
Make a dressing of one-half cup of 
vinegar, one-fourth cup of oil, one tea- 
spoonful of prepared mustard, salt and 
white pepper. Pick the meat from the 
shells and claws, cut it in small pieces. 
Pour the dressing over the meat, mix all 
together. Serve in the shell, previously 
cleaned and dried. Garnish with lettuce. 



186— DEVILED CRABS. 
Pick the meat from the shells, crack 
the claws to take out the meat. Add for 
every cupful of crab meat a half cupful 
of fine bread crumbs, a piece of butter 
the size of an ^^g, a tablespoonful of pre- 
pared mustard, salt and pepper, fill the 
crab shell with the mixture, dust sifted 
cracker crumbs on top, bake in a hot 
oven; baste once with melted butter five 
minutes after it is in the oven. 

187— CRABS IN CASES. 

I can crabs. 

% cup butter sauce. 

4 hard boiled yolks of eggs. 

Salt and cayenne. 

Paper cases. 

Mash the yolks and stir them in the 
sauce with the crabs, butter the paper 
cases, fill them with the mixture; bake 
five minutes, serve on a bed of greens. 

188— CRABS ON TOAST. 
Canned deviled crabs warmed in a but- 
tered pan with salt, pepper and lemon 
juice added; spread on buttered toast. 



34 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



J89— OYSTERS ON THE HALF 
SHELL. 

Huitres sur Coquille. 
There are many varieties suitable to 
serve on the half shell, such as Shrews- 
bury's, Moris river, Scotch coves, Saddle 
rocks, and others, but Blue Points are the 
best variety to serve. Wash and scrub 
clean before opening. They will be at 
their best if opened just before serving. 
Half a dozen Blue Points are a hors 
d' Oeuvre (appetizer) unsurpassed b}' any 
other. 

J9a-OYSTER COCKTAIL No. \. 

Six or eight small oysters served in a 
wine or cocktail glass with 05'ster cock- 
tail catsup poured on top. 

191— OYSTER COCKTAIL No. 2. 
Put the oysters in glasses as for recipe 
No. 190; peel a lemon as you would an 
orange, mince it fine, sprinkle a little 
cayenne on the oysters, then a teaspoon- 
ful of the minced lemon, with chopped 
parsley on top. Serve with crackers and 
butter. Add a small fork to the silver 
service on the table. 



192— OYSTER BOX STEW. 

There seems to be but little sense to 
the term, and the author has so far been 
unable to ascertain its justifiable origin. 

One dozen large oysters just opened 
for each order, a piece of fresh butter the 
size of an egg, and a basting spoonful of 
light cream. Take a sauce pan and put 
the oysters to boil in their own liquor, 
add the melted butter and cream, season 
with salt. Put a piece of buttered tcast 
in a bowl and pour the oysters over it. 

193— OYSTER MILK STEW. 

Boil the milk and cook the oysters in 
a separate dish, as oysters will generally 
curdle the milk. Oysters should not be 
boiled more than two minutes. Set them 
to boil in their own liquor, take off all the 
scum that rises, for each order add but- 
ter the'size of_a walnut, then the hot milk, 
season to taste, serve immediately. 



J94— PLAIN OYSTER STEW. 

Cooked like No. 193, but use a little wa- 
ter instead of milk. If the oysters swim 
in their liquor, you can dispense with the 
water. 

195— COAST OYSTER STEW. 

Make the milk stew No. 193, put a slice 
of buttered toast in the bowl, pour the 
stew over through a strainer, lay the oys- 
ters on the floating toast. 

J96— STEAMED OYSTERS. 
The oysters must be perfectly clean. 
Put them in the steamer, deep shell down, 
steam from three to five minutes, take off 
the top shell, do not spill any of the 
liquor if possible, no seasoning. Serve 
with quartered lemons. 

J97— BROILED OYSTERS. 

A very nice way of cooking oysters 
if properly done, the trouble lies in the 
wrong kind of breading. Sifted cracker 
meal will not answer the purpose in this 
case. If you desire success and pefec- 
tion, dry a loaf of bread on the shelf of 
the range, break it, roll and sift it, drain 
the largest oysters obtainable, dip them 
one at a time in beaten Ggg, and roll 
gently in the crumbs so as to evenly coat 
them, let them lie in the crumbs a half 
hour. Brush a fine oyster broiler, lay in 
the oysters, shut the broiler, and broil 
over a clear fire, in about a minute turn 
the broiler; brush with butter once or 
twice without opening the broiler. Don't 
cook more than a light brown. Serve on 
a folded napkin. 

198— BROILED STUFFED OYSTERS. 

20 oysters, the largest obtainable. 

5 yolks of eggs. 

y^ cup fine minced bacon. 

Boil four eggs; crush the yolks with the 
minced bacon; season with pepper; add 
one raw yolk so the stuffing will ball. 
The inside of the oyster must be split 
without making a large opening, take a 
sharp penknife, insert it at the edge and 
move it up and down; stuff; roll in bread 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



35 



crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, then in bread 
crumbs again; broil over a clear fire. 
See No. 197. 

199— OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE. 

Little Pigs in Blanket. 
Let drain some large oysters; sprinkle 
with black pepper. Cut slices of fat ba- 
con as thin as possible; roll two oysters 
in each slice; run a skewer through five 
of these rolls; press them tightly together; 
bake in the top of the oven; rest the end 
of the skewer on the edge of the pan so 
the oysters will not touch the dripping. 
Serve on the skewers with buttered toast 
Tinder; slip a lamb chop cuff on one end of 
the skewer. 

200— OYSTERS, A LA RIARL- 
BOROUGH. 

A delicate shell filled with oyster pat- 
ties mixture. Make balls of cold butter 
the size of an egg; they may be shaped in 
cones, round, etc., according to your 
fancy. Set them in a cold place or leave 
them in a bowl of ice-water to get hard, 
then roll them in fine cracker crumbs, 
dip in beaten eggs, roll again in plenty 
of cracker crumbs; drop them in hissing 
hot lard just like you would croquettes, 
but handle with care. Take them out 
and cut out a round piece from the top; 
turn them upside down so the butter will 
all run out; keep them hot and cri.sp un- 
til they are ready to serve ; fill with oyster 
patty preparation. 



20J— FRIED OYSTERS. 
Cracker meal can be used to iry oys- 
ters, if not for broiled oysters. Drain 
the oysters, then dry them with a napkin, 
dip in beaten eggs, then in cracker meal, 
drop them singly in hot lard. They will 
brown in three minutes. Heap on a 
folded napkin; garnish with parsley. 

202— FRIED OYSTERS DOUBLE 

BREADED. 
Will look a good deal larger than they 
really are. Drain in a colander, roll in 
fine cracker meal, dip in beaten eggs. 



roll again in cracker meal. Will take a 
little longer to fry than No. 201. Serve 
®n a folded napkin. 

203— FRIED OYSTERS, CHEAPER 
WAY. 

Put the oysters in a colander to drain, 
mix equal parts of cracker meal and flour, 
roll in the oysters, dip them in milk then 
in the cracker and flour mixture. Fry a 
few at a time in hissing hot lard. Drain 
carefully before serving. 

204— OYSTER FRITTERS. 

The oysters must be scalded in their 
own liquor before they are dropped in 
the batter, otherwise they will shrink 
and cause the batter to puff and break on 
one side, drain the oysters and sprinkle 
with salt and peppgr, drop them in the 
batter, fry three together in some of the 
batter; push them in with the end of the 
finger; done when colored enough. Serve 
on folded napkin; garnish with parsley. 

205— ROASTED OYSTERS, RO- 

CHELLE STYLE. 
Roast the oysters in the shells; take 
them out when done and place them on 
fancy shapes of toast arranged on a plat- 
ter. Mix some of the oyster liquor with 
cream, season lightly, and pour on the 
toast. 

206— OYSTERS IN CASES. 
Hors d' Oeuvre. 
Butter paper cases and put them in the 
oven one minute just before using. Fill 
the cases with oyster patty mixture, but 
cut the oysters in small pieces. When 
making the filling, just after scalding, 
flavor with a little essence of Anchovy. 

207— CROUSTADE OF OYSTER. 

Cut off the top crust of a loaf of bread 
which was baked in a square tin, scoop 
out all the inside, cut the edge in orna- 
mental notches, spread soft butter inside, 
set in the oven, when toasted brown take 



36 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



it out. Make oyster stew No. 192, and 
fill the croustade. 



208— OYSTERS A LA RUSSE. 

A kind of oyster paste rolled in bacon 
and fried in batter. 
I pint of oysters. 
% cup of milk. 
I basting spoonful of flour. 

1 cup of minced chicken. 

2 yolks of eggs. 
Butter size of an egg. 
Pepper, salt and lemon. 

Boil the oysters in their own liquor, 
take them out and mince them. Cut the 
chicken very small, mix the flour and 
butter, set over the fire; when it bubbles 
stir in the milk and oyster liquor, add the 
minced chicken and seasoning, stir till it 
boils again, then add the yolks of eggs, 
cook a minute longer, put in the oysters 
and chicken, spread on a buttered platter. 
When cold cut in strips the length and 
width of a finger, roll in thin slices of 
bacon previously parboiled and cooled, 
dip in batter and fry like fritters. Serve 
very hot. 

209— FINEST FRYING BATTER. 

6 oz. flour. 

6 whites of eggs. 

3 tablespoonfuls of olive oil. 

3 tablespoonfuls of sherry wine. 

Salt and pepper. 

Whip the whites in a bowl, pour in the 
oil and wine, then the flour a little at a 
time. You may improve it by adding a 
little baking powder. All the ingredi- 
ents and utensils should be ice cold to in- 
sure success. 



2J0— OYSTERS A L' ITALBENNE. 

Yz pound spaghetti or macaroni. 

I coffee cupful of small oysters. 

Piece of butter the size of a lemon. 

I cupful of milk. 

I egg. 

A little flour. 

Pepper and salt. 

Proceed as for making macaroni and 
cheese, break the macaroni in boiling 
water, allowing it to boil twenty minutes, 



strain in colander. Put a layer of macaroni 
in a well buttered pan, then a layer of oys- 
ters, alternating until the dish is full, 
sprinkle sifted cracker crumbs on top, 
strew small pieces of butter over all, salt 
and pepper. Mix a basting spoonful of 
flour with the milk and egg, pour it over, 
and bake light brown. 

2 U— OYSTER OMELET. 

2 eggs for every order, four oysters to 
each egg; salt and pepper. Scald the 
oysters in their own liquor; beat the eggs 
in a bowl. (Eggs should not be beaten 
light for an omelet); fry in a small pan 
with just enough lard to cover the bot- 
tom. When set, put the oysters on top, 
fold over and brown. Do not put in the 
eggs until the lard gets quite hot. 

2 J2— OYSTER PATTIES. 

I pint oysters. 

I cupful cream. 

Piece of butter the size of an ?:%,%. 

Yz cup of flour. 

Seasoning. 

Scald the oysters in their own liquor, 
but do not let them boil; boil the milk 
separately ; mix the butter and flour in a 
sauce pan large enough to hold all the 
rest; set it on the range, and when it bub- 
bles stir in the cream and oyster liquor. 
Stir constantly and when it boils up again 
put in the seasoning and oysters. The crust 
should be made of pufl' paste (see index) 
rolled thin; cut in round or oval shapes 
with a patty cutter; when ready to serve 
remove the center or button, fill with 
enough of the mixture so that it will run 
over; replace the crust; serve with or with- 
out garnishing. 

213— OYSTERS EN CORBEILLE. 

Prepare the oysters as in the preceding 
recipe, but stir in enough yolks of eggs 
to make it yellow. The sauce must not 
boil after the yolks are added. The 
cases are made with a copper mold dip- 
ped in butter and fried in lard. (See rec- 
ipe in part three of this book) . 

2M -OYSTER PIE. 
Take a three quart earthern dish lined 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



37 



with crust made as directed in recipe for 
American chicken pie. Bake this in the 
oven ; when done fill it with the creamed 
oyster preparation. Roll out a thin sheet 
of crust for the top; wet the edges with 
cold water; bake on the upper grate of 
the oven until the top crust is done. 



2 J5— INDIVIDUAL OYSTER PIE. 

Partly fill an individual vegetable dish 
with oyster patty preparation ; cover with 
a thin sheet of puflF paste ; brush over with 
beaten egg; bake a nice brown. 

216— OYSTER POT PIE. 

Make the ordinary baking powder bis- 
cuit dough, roll it about an inch thick 
and cut in portions the size of a half dol- 
lar, cook these in a steamer. While they 
are cooking prepare the oysters in the 
following manner: 

I quart oysters. 

I pint milk. 

% lb. of butter. 

Salt, white pepper and minced parsley. 

Boil the oysters and milk separately. 
Thicken the milk with flour to about the 
consistency of soft butter; add the oys- 
ters and seasoning, drop in the dump- 
lings. Serve with two dumplings on 
each plate. 



217— SCALLOPED OYSTERS, INDI- 
VIDUAL DISH. 

Butter vegetable dishes the same as for 
shirred eggs, put a few crumbs in the 
bottom of the dish, put in 12 to 15 oys- 
ters, a thin layer of bread crumbs over 
them and a small piece of butter, bake in 
a hot oven. 



218— SCALLOPED OYSTERS ON THE 
HALF SHELL. 
Select large oysters, loosen them en- 
tirely from the shell, dredge fine crumbs 
in the shells, replace the 05'sters, cover 
with bread crumbs. When they are done 
pour over them a teaspoonful of melted 
butter. Bake quicklj' in a hot oven. 



219— OYSTERS FRIED IN BUTTER. 

Put a teaspoonful ot melted butter for 
every half dozen oysters, drop each oys- 
ter separately in a plate with cracker 
meal and give them a careful coating, 
lay the oysters in the pan close together, 
cook over a good hot fire. When they 
are brown on one side take a plate and 
lay on the oysters, upside down; turn 
over and slide them back in the pan, care 
must be taken that the oysters* do not 
break apart. Lay the plate upside down 
again over the oysters, turn the pan over, 
and serve on that plate with quartered 
lemon in a side dish. 

There are pans and platters of the same 
size made purposely to fry oysters in this 
way. 

220— SCALLOPED OYSTERS IN 
SILVER SHELLS. 
They are very suitable when oysters in 
the half-shell can not be obtained, and 
very presentable on a banquet table. 
Silver shell cost all the way from forty 
to sixty dollars per dozen, but there are 
very good imitations in aluminum which 
can be obtained for two or three dollars 
per dozen. Butter the shells or moulds, 
dredge with fine cracker crumbs. Scald 
the oysters, drain them and place a half 
dozen in each shell, cover with a thin 
layer of crumbs, saturate with the oyster 
liquor mixed with a little melted butter, 
bake on the top shelf of the oven; when 
done pour a little melted butter over the 
contents of each shell, and bake a min- 
ute longer. Serve the shell on a folded 
napkin, or on a bed of green celery tops, 
parsley, or water cress. 

J* 

221— SCALLOPED, OYSTERS LARGE 
PAN. 
When cooking scalloped oysters in a 
large pan care must be taken that the 
bread crumbs are all moistened and sea- 
soned with the oysters. Butter the pan 
that you will use, which should be of the 
size according to the quantity you desire. 
Scald the oysters and drain them, put 
them in a pan on a layer of bread crumbs 
so that they will touch each other; alter- 
nate with ovsters and crumbs until the 



38 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKKRV. 



dish is full. To be good there should be 
at least two layers of oysters and three of 
bread crumbs. Mix the oyster liquor 
with twice its volume of milk, pour that 
in the pau. Strew pieces of butter the 
size of walnut all over the pan, dredge 
with salt and pepper. Bake a nice brown. 

222— BROWN OYSTER BISQUE. 
I pint oysters. 
5 pints fish stock. 

1 pint of cream. 
Yz cup of flour. 
]/z cup of butter. 
yi cup white wine. 

Cook the oysters in the fish stock, skim 
all that rises ; brown the flour in the 
oven ; mix with the butter; set the pan 
on the range; when it bubbles add the 
cream and some of the fish stock from 
the kettle. Drain the oysters; put the 
stock back into the kettle, and throw in 
the contents of the soup pan; when boil- 
ing hot thicken with the yolks of eggs; 
add the wine and oj'sters. Season to 
taste, and serve hot. 

2i3— TRUFFLED OYSTERS. 

2 dozen of the largest oysters. 
y^ can of truffles. 

Yi cupful of cooked chicken white meat. 

A basting spoonful of raw salt pork, 
minced very fine. 

A minced pickled red pepper. 

2 eggs. 

Pound the chicken meat to a paste; 
addthe salt pork, and the minced pickled 
red pepper; Cut the truffles in small dice 
the size of peas. Lay the oysters on a 
napkin. Insert a pen knife at the edge 
as for stuffed oysters. Force in as much 
of this mixture as possible. Roll the oy- 
sters in flour, dip in beaten eggs then in 
fine cracker meal. Drop a few at a time 
in hissing hot lard; fry three or four min- 
utes; when a light brown drain and lay 
them on sheets of paper. Serve on fancy 
shapes of toast. 

224— FANCY SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 
Prepare scalloped 0}'sters on a flat plat- 
ter, which is suitable to go on the table; 



heap the oysters in the dish. Make a 
border of dry mashed potatoes all around; 
brush over with egg ; bake brown. 
A force bag and tube are most convenient 
to make this border. See part three for 
description of sack and tubes. 



225— OYSTERS EN PAPILLOTTE. 

Make a paste of one cupful of mashed 
potatoes, one tablespoonful of flour. 
Roll and cut in round shapes, scald and 
drain the oysters, put a few in the mid- 
dle of each piece of paste, place another 
over the oyster, press the edges together, 
mark with a fork, brush over with beaten 
egg, bake a nice golden brown. 

226— OYSTERS A LA TARTARE. 

Scald and drain the oysters, cool on 
ice, serve with cold tartar sauce poured 
over. (See index for sauce. ) 

227— OYSTERS BROILED IN THE 
SHELL. 

A favorite way with the darkies of the 
Florida keys. Cooked in this manner 
they make uncommonly good eating. 

Lay the clean shells on the gridiron, 
when they open put in each oyster a bit 
of butter and a little white pepper. Serve 
immediately. 

228— OYSTERS A LA HTS1\L\RCK. 

Prince Bismarck was ver}' fond of oys- 
ters prepared in this way, and the enor- 
mous quantity the prince would eat, 
clearl)' shows that the famous chancellor 
must have had an iron stnmaoh as well as 
iron nerves. 

I quart of oysters. 

I can of button mushrooms, or a coffee 
cupful of fresh mushrooms. 

I cup of cream. 

Yi cup of butter. 

Yz cup of flour. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

Salt, cayenne and cracker meal. 

Scald the oysters, drain once, keep the 
liquor hot, mix the flour and butter in a 
saucepan on the range, when it bubbles 
add the oyster liquor gradually, stir till 
it boils again, then add the cream, 03'S- 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



39 



ters, drained mushrooms, season; put the 
mixture in a two quart earthen baking 
dish, sprinkle cracker meal on top, brown 
iu the oven, send the dish to the table as 
it comes out of the oven. 



229— OYSTERS EN ASPIC. 
Scald the oysters in seasoned vinegar 
same way as for oyster salad (see index 
for salad recipe). Prepare clear aspic 
jelly, season it strong with pepper sauce 
and lemon juice. Color a portion of the 
jelly with pounded spinach, or scalded 
celery leaves drained and pounded 
through a sieve. Cool the colored jelly 
in a fiat dish so it will be about a quarter 
of an inch thick. Lay the oysters in even 
rows on a flat platter, pour the clear aspic 
over them so they will be just covered. 
When cold and firmly set, cut the green 
aspic jelly in oval shapes about three 
inches long and about one and a half in 
the middle; slip each shape b}^ means of 
a knife, onto a small sized platter. Cut 
the jellied oysters in small squares, each 
having an oyster in the center. The jelly 
must be cut as close as possible to the 
oyster. Lay four of these on each foun- 
dation of green jelly. Garnish with tiny 
leaves of white lettuce and hard boiled 
eggs. 

230— DEVILED OYSTERS. 
Scald the oysters in their own liquor; 
strain; make a thick butter sauce, using 
the oyster liquor instead of water. For 
every cup of drained oysters use a cup of 
the sauce, 2 hard boiled yolks of eggs, 
salt and cayenne. Mash the yolks in the 
sauce, add the oysters and seasoning. 
Butter paper cases, warm them in the 
oven, fill and bake five minutes. Serve 
immediately. 

231— OYSTER CROQUETTES. 
^ lb. of chicken meat. 
X ^- red corned tongue. 
9 oz. of beef suet. 
6 oz. of scalded oysters. 
2 yolks of eggs. 
Salt and pepper. 
Chop all together, put in tlie yolks, 



make up in cones or shapes; give a dou- 
ble breading by rolling in cracker meal; 
dip in beaten egg, then again in cracker 
meal. Fry in hissing hot lard. When 
light brown take out and drain ; serve on 
a leaf of lettuce. 



232— FRICASSEED OYSTERS. 

1 quart of oysters. 
X R>. butter. 

}4 cup flour. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

Boil the oysters two minutes; strain the 
liquor; stir the flour and butter in a sauce- 
pan over the hot range; when it bubbles 
add the liquor; season; whip in the yolks; 
put the 0)sters in the sauce. 



233— CREAMED OYSTERS ON 
TOAST. 
Make the fricasseed oyster preparation. 
Serve on buttered toast. 



^ 



234— OYSTERS A LA HUMBERT. 

I quart of oysters. 

I ^2 pint of fine cracker crumbs. 

}4 pint white wine. 

X ft), butter. 

}4 ft>. grated parmesan cheese, or any 
other kind of cheese if parmesan cannot 
be easily obtained. 

Spread half of the cracker crumbs on 
the bottom of the pan, then all the raw 
oysters, and grated cheese, then the rest 
of the crumbs; dredge with salt and pep- 
per; melt the butter and mix with the 
wine, distribute this as evenly as possible 
all over the top; bake a nice brown. 



235— OYSTER VOL AU VENT. 
A delicious kind of pattie made like a 
small apple turnover. Make the oyster 
croquette preparation ; roll out a thin sheet 
of puff paste, cut out round pieces with a 
large cookie cutter, put a spoonful of the 
oyster mixture in the middle, fold over, 
turn the edges and pinch them together, 
brush over with beaten egg; bake a nice 
color in a hot oven. 



40 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



236-CLAMS ON THE HALF 
SHELL. 
There are several varieties of clams, 
small clams only can be used on the half 
shell; the best is the Little Neck. Wash 
the shells thoroughly before opening; 
they should be loosened from the shell 
and retain all the liquor the shell will 
hold ; serve w ith lemon. 



237 — CONEY ISLAND CLAM 
CHOWDER. 
1 quart of water. 
I pint raw potatoes. 
I cupful chopped tomatoes. 

1 onion. 

Butter size of a lemon, 

Slice of bacon. 

Yz teaspoonful of thyme. 

3 cloves, a bay leaf, salt, pepper, pars- 
ley. 

Have all the ingredients ready. Slice 
the onion and potatoes; scald the clams, 
cut in pieces, save the liquor. An hour 
and a half before dinner put the butter 
and ham in a saucepan, then the onions, 
the clove and bay leaf tied inside a little 
bunch of parsley ; sprinkle the powdered 
thyme over this, put on the lid and cook 
slowly about 20 minutes. Before the 
contents begin to brown put in the water, 
clam liquor and potatoes, salt and pepper. 
Boil until the potatoes are done, then 
take out the ham aud bunch of parsley; 
throw in the cut clam, boil once more. 

23S— FRIED SOFT SHELL CLAMS. 
Drain off the liquor and wash the clams 
in cold water. When ready to use dry 
them on a towel, dip in beaten ^^'g and 
milk, a spoonful of milk for every egg; 
then in cracker meal; fry in hot lard, 
drain in a colander, sers'e with quartered 
lemon; garnish with parsley. 

239— CLAM EN CANAPE. 

2 doz. clams 

3 yolks of eggs. 

I cupful of milk. 

A piece of butter size of an egg. 

A basting spoonful of flour. 



Yz lemon. 

Salt and Cayenne. 

Scald the clams in their own liquor, 
drain them and cut in pieces; boil the 
milk, strain the clam liquor in it, add the 
flour, stirred in a little cold water, then 
the butter seasoning and yolks; put in 
the cut clams, and add the lemon juice 
last. Serve on buttered, toast cut in 
shapes. 

240— SCALLOPED CLAMS ON 
SHELLS. 

If clams in the shell cannot be obtained 
silver or aluminum shells or paper cases 
may be used. 

I pint of clams. 

I cup of cream. 

Piece of butter the size of an egg. 

Flour thickening. 

Cracker meal. 

Salt and cayenne. 

Scald the clams in their own liquor, 
drain the liquor off; boil the milk, add 
the butter, then the hot liquor from the 
scalded clams, season, and thicken to the 
consistency of thick cream, add the clams; 
put two or three clams with some of the 
sauce on every shell, dredge cracker 
meal on top, when done put a little but- 
ter over the cracket meal with the back 
of a spoon. 

241— CLAM COCKTAIL. 
Made precisely as directed for oyster 
cocktail. Little neck clams only can be 
used for this purpose. 

242— CLAM PATTIES. 
Made the same way as oyster patties. 
Another way is to line a muffin tin with 
puff paste, cut rounds large enough to 
cover these, brush over with egg, bake in 
the oven; when done take them out, fill 
with the prepared clams, put on the lid 
and serve like patties. 

243— SCALLOPS, OR COCKLES. 

May be cooked in all the same ways as 
oysters, but they are preferable fried in 
batter. 



Game and Poultry. 



244— GAME. 
It is very difficult to make a selection 
of variety, the supply being a matter of 
chance, but if care is exercised in keep- 
ing and cooking game excellence and 
satisfaction will always be obtained. 
When game becomes a little too old, 
permagnate of potash will purify it if 
moderately employed. The best way to 
keep game, however, is to draw it as soon 
as possible, rinse it with a solution of bi- 
carbonate of soda, then a profusion of 
cold water; wipe it dry inside and out, 
rub it lightly with fine salt, hang in a 
cool place and wrap a piece of paper 
around each one. This is a good way of 
keeping game if the weather is cool, 
otherwise it must be kept in a cold 
storage. 

If the game is young, roasting or broil- 
ing is certainly the best. By all means 
do not roast or try to broil old game. 
They will be good, even succulent if made 
into a stew, pie, civet, quenelles, or soup. 
Boiled, braised and fricasseed old part- 
ridges are uncommonly good eating, or 
cooked with cabbage and salt pork; again 
in German style with sauerkraut and 
sausage. Cook them tender in whatever 
way you may cook them. Large game, 
such as rabbit, pheasant, blackcock, and 
other large birds must be thoroughly 
cooked, but not excessively done. Many 
epicures will appreciate small birds if 
only underdone, but the author would 
not feel justified in advising this mode of 
eating game. 

Small game are generally .served on 
toast, the French way is with green peas, 
or the toast saturated either with port or 
Amontillado. With phea.sant, grouse, 
and partridge, bread sauce seenis to be 
the most fashionable. Getmine spiced 
currant jelly is considered essential to a 
perfect dish of roast hare. 

Small birds which are suitable to broil 



can also be roasted, but they must be 
wrapped in very thin slices of salt pork. 
Too many people do not like the taste of 
bacon or smoked meat, so salt fat pork is 
preferable. The fishy taste which is so 
common to wild fowl may be destroyed 
by boiling in water seasoned with salt 
and pepper, one onion, and a tablespoon- 
ful of sherry or vinegar. Spices, herbs, 
garlics, onions, and strong bodied wine 
must be avoided in their preparation, as 
the natural flavor of game cannot be im- 
proved by their use. 

245— VENISON. 
Venison seems to be the favorite wild 
meat. Every part can be utilized to good 
advantage; soups from the necks and 
coarse pieces; stews and pies from the 
rough cuts; chops are choice broiling; 
the shoulders are good roasted, but the 
buttock is the best part to roast. 



246— POT AGE OF VENISON. 

Take seven or eight pounds of coarse 
pieces of venison — neck, brisket, and 
trimmings; saw and crack the bones; pro- 
ceed as for making stock; when done 
drain and skim off all the fat; thicken 
with browned flour and butter as you 
would for turtle soup. Make quenelles 
from the pounded breast of chicken or 
partridge. Strain the soup, add one-half 
cup of Amontillado, season with salt and 
cayenne; strain and serve with four or five 
quenelles previouslj- poached in hot 
water. 

247— VENISON CONSOMME. 
Five pounds of the coarse meat of veni- 
son, no bones must enter into this soup, 
only the coarse meat cut and trimmed 
from the neck, brisket, shank, etc.; put 



42 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



the meat in the soup kettle with one small 
onion, one piece of carrot, one stalk of 
celery, and a bunch of aromatic herbs; 
cover with four quarts of ordinary stock; 
boil gently about three hours; skim all 
that rises; strain through a folded napkin; 
set on the table to cool about three- 
quarters of an hour, then clarify in the 
usual way, season to taste, and serve in 
cups with a thin slice of lemon. 
J« 

248— BROILED VENISON CHOPS. 

Cut the chops of double thickness, trim 
the bone as you would for French lamb 
chops; tie a piece of buttered paper on 
the bare scraped bone; broil over a clear 
fire. Venison chops when properly 
cooked should be just a trifle pink on the 
inside, but this is an exception to the 
general rule of cooking game, and they 
should be either medium or well done ac- 
cording to individual tastes. Season 
them with salt and pepper while they are 
broiling, when done remove the buttered 
paper from the end of the bone, and slip 
on a frill or cuff. It may be served in 
individual dishes or prettily arranged 
with the cuffs upward and a napkin 
folded over in such a way as to let the 
cuff appear at the top. 

249— VENISON POT PIE. 
Cut the venison as you would veal or 
lamb for a pot pie. The best way, how- 
ever, is to cut a slice from the round 
about three inches thick, then cut this 
in pieces suitable to serve three or four 
with each order. Chop an onion very 
fine, put in a sauce pan with a piece of 
butter the size of a lemon, fry until it 
just changes color, then put in the meat, 
fry three or four minutes longer, put in a 
teaspoonful of salt, half as much of white 
pepper; cover with either stock or water; 
put the lid on and boil gently until 
tender; when done thicken with browned 
flour. Make dumpling dough as directed 
elsewhere in this book, pour the stew in a 
baking dish, drop with a spoon all over, 
bake about twenty minutes. 

250— ROASTED SADDLE OF VENI- 
SON WITH CURRANT JELLY. 
The saddle is commonly understood to 



be the leg. Haunch seems to be an Eng- 
lish term, but it is unsuitable, and we 
will designate our venison roast under 
the title of "saddle." Rub the venison 
with salt and pepper, and lay strips of 
fat salt pork all over; baste frequently so 
that it will not be dry. Serve with cur- 
rant jelly or champangne sauce. 

251— VENISON PIE, HUNTER 
STYLE. 
Cut the venison meat as you would for 
pot pie, put it in a sauce pan with just 
enough stock to cover it; for every pound 
of meat add three slices of bacon cut in 
squares, one minced onion, a pinch of 
mace, two cloves, salt and pepper; boil 
with the lid on; when tender thicken 
with flour. Pour in a baking dish and 
cover with a crust made as follows: 

1 lb. flour. 

yi lb. beef suet. 

2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
I teaspoonful of salt. 

Milk. 

Mix the baking powder with the flour 
and salt, put the suet through a sausage 
grinder, rub it into the flour, add enough 
milk to hold the ingredients together; 
roll and cover; will bake in about forty 
minutes; it will brown sufiiciently with- 
out brushing over with egg or butter. 

252— ROAST VENISON, COLONIAL 
STYLE. 

Trim the saddle of the venison of the 
useless shank and all protruding bones, 
wipe dry and brush all over with butter, 
dredge with salt and pepper. Make a 
paste of two pounds of flour and a pint of 
water, cover the roast with it, bake with 
water in the pan. When done take it 
out from the crust and brown in a very 
hot oven ; throw away the crust. It will 
take a little more time to cook a saddle of 
venison by this method, but you will 
have a juicy tender meat unsurpassed by 
any other means. 



253-ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP. 

A fat buck is distinguishable by its de- 
cided flavor of mutton, otherwise it re- 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



43 



sembles venison, and when cooked it is 
almost impossible to perceive the differ- 
ence. It can be cooked in all the ways 
that venison is prepared. The rib chops 
are certainly superior to other cuts. 

254— OPOSSUM. 

It is rarely seen in our northern market, 
and is generally already prepared for 
cooking, but you may happen to get one 
fresh killed; proceed then just as for a 
pig, put a half peck of hard wood ashes 
in a boiler of scalding water, if the water 
is too hot you will spoil the skin, which 
is certainly the best part of the opossum; 
scrape clean, draw it, wash with cold wa- 
ter and wipe dry. 

255— ROAST OPOSSUM WITH 

SWEET POTATOES. 
Split the opossom lengthwise; dredge 
with salt and pepper; put it in a pan with 
a pint of water and a pound of salt pork 
cut in pieces. Wash and peel some nice 
sweet potatoes of even size; lay them all 
around the pan with buttered paper over 
if the opossum is large. If the potatoes 
are done before the meat take them out 
and keep in a warm place until ready to 
serve. 

256— ELK. 

Can easily be found at all game dealers. 
It is not as good as venison; it resembles 
beef more than it does any other meat; 
it may be good as a novelty, but cannot 
be called a delicacy. The choice cuts 
can be broiled or roasted like beef. 

257— ELK, A LA POLONAISE. 
Take a piece of solid meat, it must be 
clean and weigh three or four pounds. 
}4 pint chopped onions. 
^ It), of fat salt pork. 

1 cup of claret. 

2 cups of ale. 

I teaspoonful of pepper. 

I teaspoonful of salt. 

Mixed spices. 

Stock. 

Mix enough of all kinds of spices and 



aromatic herbs which you may have at 
hand to cover the bottom of a china plate. 
Cut the salt pork in strips as small as pos- 
sible to use in your larding meedle. Roll 
the strips in the plate of mixed spices and 
and insert them in the meat with a large 
larding meedle, put these in as evenly as 
possible. Put the scraps of pork and all 
the ingredients named, except the stock, 
in a deep sauce pan; put the cover on 
and let it cook gently till it is almost dry, 
but do not let it fry; then turn the meat 
over and cover with stock; turn the meat 
every hour until tender; take it out; strain 
the liquid that remains, skim off the fat, 
and boil it down to glaze on grav)\ Slice 
the meat crosswise of the larding. Serve 
with the sauce over. 



258— ANTELOPE. 
Yet very numerous on the Western 
plain ; it is shipped in quantities to eastern 
markets and may be obtained at a very 
reasonable figure. Antelope has a musky 
flavor resembling that of the beaver. The 
meat is dark and very tender; it may be 
cooked in any way directed for venison. 
The steak is good fried, bxit must be cut 
thick and flattened with the broad side 
of the cleaver. 



259— FILLET OF ANTELOPE AU 
CHAMPIGNON. 

Bone a rib piece, trim off the thin 
parts, to every pound of meat use a quar- 
ter pound of butter, bake in a hot oven 
with just enough water to prevent the 
corner of the pan from burning; when 
done strain a can of mushrooxns and put 
them in the pan; when hot place the fillet 
on a platter; strain the gravy to gather 
the mushrooms; place these all around 
the fillet; skim part of the fat from the 
gravy; pour over the fillet; put the juice 
of a lemon in the dish; garnish with pars- 
ley; must be served very hot. 



260— COON. 

Is cooked like opossum ; instead of be- 
ing scalded and scraped like the opos.sum 
it has to be skinned. 



44 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



261— BUFFALO. 

Resembles beef, and is cut and cooked 
in all the ways prescribed for it. 

262— BEAR. 

Bear meat has the taste of pork, but is 
very dark, and like pork it must be well 
done. Young black bears when fat are 
good eating, others are tough and if used 
at all must be kept as long a time as pos- 
sible, that is until it is on the verge of 
spoiling. The loins and chops are good 
broiled and fried, the hams roasted and 
served with currant jelly, the coarse 
pieces stewed or fricasseed. 

26S-RABBITS. 

Young rabbits compare favorably with 
chicken, and are cooked in every way 
prescribed for it. 

264— BROILED RABBIT. 

Must be young rabbits. Split down 
the back and once across making four 
portions, wash and diy them, flatten the 
portions with a sharp blow with the 
cleaver, it will prevent the meat from 
curling up, rub the broiler with a piece of 
fat pork; brush the meat with butter, and 
broil about twenty minutes; dredge with 
salt and pepper; brush with butter once 
more, and serve with fried salt pork and 
fancy potatoes in the dish. 

265— STEWED RABBIT WITH 
DUMPLING. 

1 rabbit. 

2 slices of salt pork. 
I onion. 

I teaspoonful black pepper. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 
% ft), flour. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
I teacupful of milk. 

Cut the rabbit down the back, trim the 
thin part of the ribs, make three or four 
portions of each side according to the 
size; let it stand in cold water about an 
hour, then boil in enough water to cover 
it for two hours or more, until the water 
is half gone; then cut the pork in dice 



and fry without browning, add the minced 
onion; when these begin to change color 
throw the contents of the frying pan into 
the kettle; season and thicken with a 
basting spoonful of flour. Make the 
dumpling dough with the flour, salt, 
powder, and milk; drop with a spoon in 
the stew ; cover and boil gently until done. 

266- CIVET OF RABBIT. 

3 young rabbits. 

I can of button mushrooms. 

^2 cup of flour. 

% cup of butter. 

I basting spoonful of sherry. 

A bunch of aromatic herbs. 

Salt and pepper. 

Divide the rabbits in eight pieces, steep 
in cold water one hour, take out and let 
stand a few minutes so that the water 
will all run off; dredge with salt and pep- 
per. Melt the butter in a pan, put in the 
pieces of rabbit and fry; when they are 
browning shake the flour over till the 
pieces are well coated; put in the mush- 
rooms, one minced onion, and the aro- 
matic herbs; cover with water; stew slowly 
until the meat is tender; take out the herbs, 
add the wine; serve on buttered toast. 



267— RABBIT WITH SPINACH. 

2 rabbits. 

% lb. bacon. 

A bunch of soup herbs. 

Salt and pepper. 

Bone the legs and thighs, replace the 
bones with pieces of bacon, sew up, boil 
in a sauce pan with enough stock to cover 
it, the scraps of bacon and vegetables; 
salt and pepper. When done tender cut 
in small pieces, the boneless part only, 
and serv^e on a bed of spinach. 



268— RABBITS A LA JARDINIERE. 

Cut the rabbits as directed in No. 266; 
cover with light stock; add a minced on- 
ion, a 1)uncli of herbs, salt and pepper. 

Cut up a pint of vegetables (carrots, 
white turnip, .squash and potatoes) in 
small round shapes with a Parisienne po- 
tato spoon or cutter. When the rabbit 
meat is cooked almost tender throw in the 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



45 



vegetables, when they are done thicken 
with flour; season to taste. When finished 
the stew should be white, so the multi- 
color vegetables make a pretty contrast. 



269— WILD DUCK. 

The familiar varieties seen on the mar- 
ket are the mallard, probably the best 
and largest, the canvas back, which con- 
noisseurs claim to have a fine flavor de- 
rived from their feeding on water celery, 
the red head, teal, pin tails, etc. All 
cannot be cooked in the same manner. 
Common duck will stand two hours' bak- 
ing, while a teal or canvass back would 
be spoiled by being baked a few minutes 
too long. 



270-ROAST CANVASS BACK DUCK. 

Pick and singe carefully, draw, wipe 
inside and out with a cloth, but do not 
wash them; rub with fine salt and pepper, 
put them in a pan just large enough to 
hold them with a little stock and a piece 
of butter the size of an egg; roast from 
twenty-five to thirty-five minutes. Serve 
with the gravy in the pan and a border 
of watercress and fried hominy cakes. 
They should not be stuffed. 

27J— ROAST MALLARD DUCK. 

Can be roasted like No. 270, but is a 
good deal better stuffed. It is naturally 
tender and will cook in an hour. When 
carving cut through the bones and make 
four portions to each duck. 



272— ONION DRESSING. 

1 quart of finely minced bread. 

Yi, cup of minced onion. 

I teaspoonful of powdered sage. 

Yi, cup of roast pork or sausage fat. 

I cup of warm water. 

I egg. 

Beat the &^^; add to the water; pour 
over the bread crumbs; mix all the in- 
gredients together; the bread should not 
be moist as it would not absorb any juices 
from the game or fowl for which it is 
used. 



273— TEAL DUCK. 

Are at their best when broiled; may be 
roasted, but not stuffed; will cook in 
twenty-five minutes; serve with brown 
gravy. 

274— WILD GEESE AND COMMON 
WILD DUCK. 

There are no better ways of cooking 
tough game, especially wild geese, brant, 
etc., than the process called braising. 
The wiry, tough, wild geese will not give 
satisfaction cooked by the ordinary 
methods of roasting. Braising is a mid- 
dle between roasting and boiling; they 
should not be stuffed when cooked in this 
manner. Take a heavy iron kettle, one 
that has a tight cover; put in enough 
stock or water to cover the bottom; put 
in the geese or ducks with one or two on- 
ions, a few cloves, a bunch of aromatic 
herbs, and a few slices of salt pork; put 
the lid on with a weight on top, three or 
four flatirons for example; thus the game 
shut in are subjected to a roasting degree 
of heat without its dryness. Do not let 
the kettle get dry, raise the cover every 
half hour and add a little stock if neces- 
sary ; in two to two and a half hours the 
toughest of them will be as tender as 
chicken. Skim the grease from the liquid 
remaining, thicken with browned flour, 
and serve with each portion. Cooked 
this way the ducks or geese have the ap- 
pearance of being roasted, but they have 
the advantage of being tender and juicy. 

275 -ROASTED WILD GOOSE 
STUFFED. 

The goose must be plucked dry, singe 
with lighted paper, pick over carefully 
and wash, cut the wings off to the first 
joint — there isn't any eating on the sec- 
ond joint; draw the geese, and save the 
gizzard and heart, also cut the neck off 
close to the body. The baking pan used to 
bake the goose must be just large enough 
to hold it; put drippings, salt and pepper 
in the pan, put it in the oven so the con- 
tents will get hot beforehand. Dredge 
the goose with salt and pepper; put in the 
pan with slices of salt pork over the top; 
cook about three hours, but when the 



46 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



slices of pork are brown and the goose 
sufficiently colored cover with a sheet of 
buttered paper; turn over three or four 
times and baste frequently. The gravy 
in the pan is not good to .serve. Send 
the goose to the table with un.sweetened 
apple sauce, cranberry, or currant jelly. 

276— ROAST WILD GOOSE. 

Make the dressing as directed in No. 
272. Stuff the goose full and plump, 
and proceed exactlj' as directed in No. 
275. It will take three-fourths of an 
hour longer to bake when stuffed. The 
gravy in the pan is not suitable to make 
sauce. Cut up the giblets and mix them 
with some good brown gravy of .some 
other meat. 

277— GEBLET SAUCE. 

Boil the gizzards, hearts and necks of 
the game or poultry in a sauce pan with 
stock for three and a half hours, add one 
onion and some brui.sed pepper corns 
while they are cooking, but no salt, as 
salt tends to make them tougher. When 
tender strain off the liquid in another 
vessel, throw away the necks and chop 
the gizzards; skim off all the clear grease 
and put the giblet liquor into the pan 
where the fowls or poultry have been 
roasted, if the contents of the pan are 
suitable. Boil and thicken the gravy, 
strain again and mix with the cut up 
giblets. 

278 -WILD TURKEY. 
The fine natural flavor of wild turkej- 
.should be unalloyed wnth stuffings, herbs 
or seasonings other than salt and pepper. 
Wrap the turkey iu thin slices of fat salt 
pork, tied around with twine: dredge with 
salt and pepper, cook in a slow oven with 
a buttered paper over. As the size of wild 
turkeys vary from ten to thirty pounds 
the time necessary to bake them varys 
accordingly. When they are done tender 
cut out the strings and remove the salt 
pork, and brown in a very hot oven. 
Let the stock in the pan boil down to 
glaze and make the gravy out of it. Ser\'e 
with cranberry or spiced quince jelly, 
(see index for recipe. ) 



279— QUAILS. 

Plentiful at all seasons of the year as 
they are kept in cold storage for month3 
and are benefited by the keeping. The 
standard way of cooking quails is broiled 
on toast. They are very good roasted 
with accompaniments of peas, mush- 
rooms, or rice, but the vine quail can 
stand very well on its own merits alone; 
they are really at their best when broiled 
without the addition of anything what- 
ever. 

280— BROILED QUAIL ON TOAST. 

Should not lie on the toast humped up 
and with the limbs directed many differ- 
ent ways, it should be flat and compact; 
to accomplish this trim the wings and 
neck as close as possible; cut along 
through the back bone with a coarse 
knife, then flatten with the broad side of 
the cleaver, strike hard enough to loosen 
the joints and press the breast bone, but 
do not make splinters of the bones. 
Rinse the quails in cold water and 
wipe dr}', dip in melted butter, hold 
a moment over the pan so that the 
butter will drip off; broil over a clear fire, 
they will broil in from eight to ten min- 
utes. Have some melted butter ready iu 
the pan; when the quails are broiled 
dredge over with salt and pepper, and 
press them down in the melted butter; 
keep hot until ready to serve; send to the 
table on toast cut in fancy shapes, garnish 
with watercress. 



28J— ROASTED QUAIL. 

Draw, rinse and wipe clean; restore the 
livers; wrap each bird in a thin slice of 
fat bacon; dredge with salt and pepper; 
put a little stock and a glass of claret in 
the pan, roast in a hot oven, serve on 
toast saturated with the liquor in the pan. 

J* 

282-QUAILS A LA FINANQERE. 

Draw the quails and keep the livers, 
chop these with an equal amount each of 
truffles, cold boiled ham, and fat salt pork, 
and- as much bread panada as all the 
other ingredients together; season with 
salt and pepper and a spoonful of sherry; 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



47 



stufT the quails, sew them up; place in the 
baking pan as many slices of salt pork as 
you have quails to braise, enough stock 
and wine to generously cover the bottom; 
throw in some cut up carrot, celery, on- 
ion, and turnip; lay each quail on the salt 
pork with another slice on top ; 
dredge with salt and pepper all over; 
cover the pan as tightly as possible with 
a sheet of tin and a weight over; will bake 
in about twenty or twenty-five minutes in 
a hot oven. Strain the gravy from the 
pan, skim off the fat, put in some mush- 
rooms or truffles, and serve a spoonful 
over each quail. 

283— QUAILS AUX PETITS POIS. 

(French Green Peas.) 
Broiled or roasted quail served with a 
border of imported peas stewed in butter; 
drain the peas; put a basting spoonful of 
fresh butter in a frying pan, when melted 
throw in the peas and leave them in just 
long enough to get hot. 

284— SNIPE AND PLOVER. 
May be cooked in all the ways prescrib- 
ed for quail. Foreign epicures say that 
snipe or plover must not be drawn, but 
eaten with intestines in. The author has 
discovered since his arrival in America 
that this princely way of eating snipe 
does not seem to take very favorably with 
the most fastidious Americans, so we will 
prescribe to cook in style accordingly. 

285— SNIPE, A LA PRINCE OF 
WALES. 

Draw, clean and wipe every snipe care- 
fully; fill them with a forcemeat made of 
equal parts of calf's liver, truffles, mush- 
rooms and a spoonful of wine, salt and 
cayenne; fill each one of the birds; wrap 
these in thin slices of salt pork; bake in 
a quick oven with water in the pan, and 
lay buttered paper over them so that they 
will not get brown; when done take them 
out and let them cool, and trim off any 
protruding bone; wrap each bird in a sheet 
of puff paste; pinch the ends so that there 
will be no apertures in the paste; brush 
over with beaten egg; bake in a hot oven; 
serve on leaves of lettuce. 



286— BROILED SQUIRRELS. 

Proceed as for broiled rabbit, but do not 
cut in portions; they will cook in a shorter 
time. 

287— PRAIRIE CHICKEN. 
Best when cooked in the simplest man- 
ner. Split open and flatten with the 
broad side of a cleaver, and broil like a 
chicken. Young birds only should be 
broiled, old ones braised or made into 
pie. 

288— PRAIRIE CHICKEN PIE. 

Cut the birds in portions as directed for 
fowls; for two hens use: 

}4 R>. of ham. 

I onion. 

X lb. of butter. 

Salt and white pepper. 

I quart of beef stock. 

Cut the ham in small pieces, chop the 
onion, put in the butter,then the stock and 
boil gently until tender; pour the stew 
into a baking dish; cover with a thin 
sheet of puff paste; brush over with 
beaten egg; bake in a hot oven. 



289— GROUSE. 

Grouse resembles a good deal the prai- 
rie chicken and can be cooked in all the 
ways prescribed for quail and other small 
birds. 

290-GROUSE, A LA CHASSEUR. 

Roast the grouse in the oven until they 
are a nice color; cut them up and ser\-e 
in a sauce made of: 

I pint of brown gravy. 

I cupful of stewed tomatoes. 

I onion. 

Tablespoonful of wine. 

Lemon juice. 

Fry the onion in butter, add the toma- 
toes, then boil 10 minutes, add the brown 
gravy and wine, season to taste; strain 
through a coarse sieve; pour over the cut 
up grouse; serve on fancy shapes of but- 
tered toast. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



29J— BROILED PARTREDGE. 

The young ones only can be broiled. 
Split down the back, and flatten out as 
would for quail. 

292— PARTRIDGE WITH CABBAGE. 

To every partridge take one small cab- 
bage. 

% lb. of bacon. 

1 quart of stock. 
Salt and pepper. 

Place the partridge cut into halves in 
the bottom of a sauce pan ; cover with the 
rtock and bacon cut in slices; if old par- 
tridge simmer about an hour; put in the 
cabbage; cover and let simmer until done. 
It may be served jn individual portions 
or on a large platter, with the partridge 
in the middle and the cabbage chopped 
and heaped all around, the pieces of bacon 
used for a border with sprigs of parsley. 

293— PARTRIDGE A LA BER- 
LESfOISE. 

Named in alhision to the mode of cook- 
ing employed by the citizens of Berlin. 

2 partridges. 

I cupful of minced salt pork. 

I dozen of imported Frankfort sausages. 

lyi lbs. of Heinz's sauerkraut: 

Place the partridge in a sauce pan with 
the minced salt pork, cover with water, 
put the sauerkraut on top, boil till tender, 
a few minutes before serving put in the 
sausage. Serve as preceding, using the 
sausage instead of the bacon to decorate 
the dish. 

294— ROAST PARTRIDGE. 
Young birds only can be roasted. Tie 
a slice of bacon over the breast, roast in 
the oven about three-fourths of an hour; 
baste every five minutes with a spoonful 
of melted butter and water mixed; serve 
■with currant jelly or orange marmalade. 

295— BALLOTINES OF PARTRIDGES. 
See index of Artistic Cookery. 

296— SOUFFLE OF PARTRIDGE. 
Roast a young partridge ( useless to try 
an old one). Pick the meat free of skin 



or tendons; cut it extremely fine, then 
pound it to a paste in a mortar, it must 
be pounded smooth otherwise it will not 
rise. Make a thick sauce as follows: 
2 oz. of flour. 

2 oz. of butter. 

I cup of chicken broth. 

I tablespoonful of walnut catsup. 

3 eggs. 

Seasoning of salt, pepper, mace and 
lemon rind. 

To one and one-half cups of the paste 
add one-half cup of the sauce, seasoning 
and walnut catsup, stir over the fire until 
boiling hot; when the mixture is cool add 
the yolks well beaten, then the frothed 
whites; bake in paper cases, will bake in 
fifteen minutes. They must be served 
immediately for they fall as they cool. 

297— CUTTING UP FOWLS. 

No matter how good a carver is, it is 
impossible to make more than four first- 
class cuts, shapely, complete, and satis- 
factory, even if it is a large chicken. 
First, carve one side of the breast, slice 
off all in one by cutting under the wing 
joint; serve the wing with the breast. 
This makes two handsome orders of clear 
white meat covered with a brown outside 
unbroken; the wings should naturally be 
taken off at the first joint before cooking. 
Second — the first and second joint or 
thigh. This is taken off by holding the 
end of the drumstick and cutting hori- 
zontally, disjointing the thigh. If the 
fowl is really big and coarse do no serve 
the drumstick. Turn the chicken and 
cut the other side in a like manner. On 
each side of the back there is a small 
piece of meat generally called the oys- 
ters, this may be carved out and served 
if called for. 

When cutting raw fowls for stews or 
fricassees it is well to follow about the 
same rule if the chickens are of medium 
weight, otherwise they may be cut into 
eight orders, drumsticks, second joints or 
thighs, breast and wings. Cut the breast 
in two, then again lengthwise; then chop 
through the wing joint, but the best way 
is to make only four orders as described 
above. 

The bony structure may be cooked and 
whatever is left of the meat picked and 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



49 



kept over to be worked into an entree with 
what may be left of the stew or fricassee. 

29S_TO TRUSS ANY KIND OF 
FOWL. 

It becomes necessary to truss the fowl 
if it is to be serv^ed whole, the object be- 
ing to remove the breast bone so as to 
give the fowl when stuffed a round, plump 
appearance. Make no opening at the 
crop, but insert a narrow sharp knife and 
cut the meat from the breast bone inside 
without cutting through; when the ridge 
of the bone is reached cut through it a 
little so as to get away from the skin; 
when this is done twist it loose from the 
wing joints and pull it. 



299— ROAST CHICKEN. 

Fresh killed chicken or fowl are dry and 
tasteless; keep them some time hanging 
up before they are used. If chickens, 
singe, draw, dreslge with salt and pepper, 
roast in the oven about an hour and a 
half according to their size; but if old 
fowls they must be boiled till tender, then 
dredged with salt and pepper and dusted 
with flour which insures a good color 
and bake a half an hour. 

300-FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN, 
FRENCH STYLE. 
Cut a chicken in ten pieces, dredge 
with pepper and salt, roll in flour, fry in 
clarified butter or olive oil. Make a sauce 
of a pint and a half of chicken broth or 
light stock, piece of butter the size of an 
egg, flour thickening, cayenne, three 
yolks of eggs, juice of half a lemon. 
Prepare a cupful of Parisienne potatoes 
made as directed in recipe No. 149, but 
cut smaller, boil these in salt and water. 
Pile the pieces of chicken in the middle 
of the dish, pour the sauce over, and the 
potatoes all around. 



30J— CHICKEN POT PIE. 

A nice fat fowl cut up in joints. 

X R). of salt pork cut in squares. 

I minced onion. 

Cover with water and boil until tender 



then add enough milk to make the sauce; 
season with salt and white pepper, thick- 
en to the consistency of cream; turn into 
an earthen baking dish; make dumpling 
batter and drop spoonfuls all over; bake 
in a moderate oven. Baste two or three 
times. 



302— BROILED CHICKEN. 

Do not draw as usual, but split down 
the back on each side of the backbone 
and as close to it as possible; this will 
completely remove the backbone; draw 
clean and wipe dry; flatten with a blow 
of the broad side of the cleaver ; brush 
with butter; broil over a clear fire; it will 
look better and cook faster if you place 
a hot brick on top. 

303— CHICKEN, A LA BECHAMEL. 

Boil the chicken in water; throw in a 
a teaspoonful of salt and half as much of 
white pepper; when done tender, but not 
so it will fall to pieces, take out and re- 
move all of the skin; put back in the ket- 
tle while you make the sauce with one 
cup of the broth strained through a nap- 
kin and thickened with flour, whip in a 
quarter cup of soft butter then a cup of 
rich cream ; put the chicken on a platter 
and let it remain a few minutes so the 
water will run off; place it on the dish in 
which it vrill be served; pour the thick 
sauce over so that every part vdll be 
coated; sprinkle with parsley dust. 

304— CHICKEN BROTH AU 
LEGUMES, 

1 chicken. 

2 slices of salt pork. 

I cup of vegetables (carrot, imported 
green peas, turnip). 

T onion. 

Salt and pepper. 

Boil the chicken in enough water to 
cover it, throw in the onion, salt, pork 
and seasoning, add water sufficiently to 
have two quarts of broth when the chicken 
is done, cut a half cup of mixed carrot 
and turnip in small dice, boil these in 
water; take out the chicken; strain the 
stock through a napkin; add the half cup 



50 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



of green peas, the other vegetables, and 
a cup full of dark meat of the chicken 
cut in squares. 

305-CHICKEN PIE. 
2 chickens. 
^ lb. salt pork. 
I minced onion. 
I teaspoonful of salt. 
^ teaspoonful of white pepper. 
I % pounds of flour. 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
^ lb. beef suet. 

Milk. 

Cut each chicken in six portions, it is 
still preferable to boil the chicken and 
pick the meat from the bones in as large 
pieces as possible. Put the chicken to 
boil with the salt pork cut in squares, the 
onion and .seasoning; boil until tender; 
thicken with a little flour; season to taste 
and pour into a baking dish; cover with a 
short paste itiade of the flour, baking 
powder, and beef suet minced extremely 
fine, salt and enough milk to make a 
dough. Another way is to line the sides 
and bottom of the baking dish with the 
paste, bake it in the oven, fill with the 
chicken, cover with a top crust and bake 
again. 

306— CHICKEN PIE, BRUNOISE. 

2 chickens. 

I slice salt pork. 

1 minced onion. 

2 large potatoes. 

Half a can ®f mushrooms. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Enough paste to cover. 

Cut the chicken in small pieces, about 
twelve pieces to each chicken, cut the 
fat pork extremely fine; put this in the 
frying pan; dredge the chicken with salt 
and pepper; put it into the pan; dust over 
with flour; frj' until it becomes a nice 
golden color. Fry the onion a light brown 
in a separate pan and when done throw in 
with the chicken; put in tne potato cut in 
small pieces; cover with stock and simmer 
until done tender, thicken with browned 
flour; put in the mushrooms; season to 
taste; pour the stew into a baking dish 
and cover with a thin sheet of puff paste; 
brush over with beaten egg; bake in the 
oven a nice color. 



307— PLAIN CHICKEN PIE. 
Cut up two chickens in the usual way, 
boil in salt water until tender; when done 
add enough milk to make the sauce; sea- 
son to taste, and thicken with flour; pour 
the stew into a baking dish and cover 
with an ordinary baking powder crust 
made as directed for baking powder bis- 
cuits; bake about twenty-five minutes. 



308-CHICKEN CUTLETS, CLAR- 
ENDON. 

% lb. of chicken meat picked and 
minced. 

% lb. bread panada. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

I small minced onion. 

I tablespoonful of minced truflles, cepes 
or common mushrooms. 

Fry the onions, mushrooms or truffles 
in a i)an with the butter; put in the pan- 
ada; when hot add the eggs, and last the 
chicken and the seasoning of salt, pepper 
and sage; let the mixture get cold then 
make up in pear shapes with floured 
hands; insert a piece of macaroni or a clean 
chicken bone in each one; flatten to make 
them look like lamb chops. Give these a 
double breading by rolling in cracker 
meal, in beaten eggs and again in the meal. 
Serve with Bordelaise sauce ( see index for 
sauce. ) 

309— RAGOUT OF CHICKEN 
GIBLETS. 

Cut the giblets in small pieces as evenly 
as possible; boil them until tender; strain 
off the liquor that remains. Mix a cup- 
ful of brown .sauce, add to it a spoonful 
of tomato catsup, thicken with browned 
flour and season to taste. Cut as much 
cooked chicken meat as you have giblets, 
put this and the giblets in the sauce. 
Butter a baking pan, put a basting spoonful 
of mashed potatoes every three or four 
inches, form these into oval shapes and 
make a hollow in the middle with the back 
of the spoon, dipped in hot water; brush 
these fonns over with beaten e^g\ brown 
in the oven; fill the hollows with the giblet 
preparation; lift out with the egg turner; 
serve on a large platter or individual 
dishes. Garnish with sprigs of parsley. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



51 



310— CHICKEN CROQUETTES. 

Boiled fowl or chicken may be used, 
but they are a good deal better when 
roasted. Cut the meat in dice as small as 
possible; season lightly with salt and pep- 
per and a pinch of mace. Make cream 
sauce of double thickness; use a half cup- 
ful of sauce to every cupful of chicken 
meat; make in small cone shapes not any 
larger than walnuts, roll the.se in flour, 
dip them in beaten eggs, then in cracker 
crumbs, fry in clean hot lard, there must 
be enough lard in the kettle to cover them. 
Serve with French green peas. 

311— PARISIAN CHICKEN CRO- 
QUETTES. 

Cut roasted chicken in dice as small as 
possible; to every cup of the chicken 
meat use: 

% cup of cepes or mushrooms. j 

% cup of truffles. ] 

% cup of bright red corned tongue. 

Cut these like the chicken. 

Make the cream sauce of double thick- 
ness and proceed as directed above, when 
cold make the croquettes in the shape of 
a pear, roll these in cracker crumbs, then 
in beaten eggs, and again in cracker 
crumbs. Care must be taken in frying 
that the shape is not spoiled. The lard 
must be hissing hot; when done stick in a 
whole clove for the blow and use a truffle 
or parsley root to imitate the stem. 

3J2— CANELONS OF CHICKEN. 
Make the chicken croquette prepara- 
tion No. 311. Make portions half the 
size of an ordinary link sausage; wrap 
each one of them in thin sheets of puff 
paste; fry in hot lard, and serve with 
green peas. 

3 13- CHICKEN LIVER IN CROUS- 
TADES. 

Clean and cut the livers in two; boil 
them in salted water until tender. Make 
a sauce with a pint of brown gravy, half 
a cup of tomato sauce, and a spoonful of 
sherry; if not thick enough, thicken with 
browned flour. Drain the livers and put 
them in the sauce with half a can of 



mu.shrooms. Prepare cold baking pow- 
der biscuits or raised rolls by cutting off 
the top and scooping out the insides; fry 
them in lard until they are crisp; fill them 
with the chicken liver preparation. 



3H— CHICKEN BOILED WITH 
SALT PORK. 

I four pound fowl. 

]/2 tb. streaked salt pork. 

Boil the fowl about an hour, throw in 
the salt pork cut in slices; when done 
take out the fowl and add a cup of milk 
or enovigh to make a pint of sauce; skim 
off any superfluous fat; season with salt 
and white pepper, and thicken to the 
consistency of rich cream. Serve a piece 
of the fowl with the sauce poured over, 
and a slice of salt pork. 

3J5— CHICKEN SAUTE, A 
L'lTALIENNE. 
Cut two chickens in eighteen pieces 
or more according to size; fry them in a 
little butter on the side of the range. 
Mince a half cup of fat ham and one 
onion; fry these; when a light brown add 
a teaspoonful of curry, butter, salt and 
pepper, three cups of thin broth or one 
cup of brown gravy diluted with two of 
water; and one of stewed tomatoes; boil a 
moment; strain over the chicken; simmer 
gently until the chicken is tender. Boil 
a teacupful of rice half an hour in plenty 
of water; when done throw it into a col- 
ander, and pour three quarts of cold wa- 
ter over it; drain and put it in the oven a 
minute to warm and dry. Make a bed of 
the rice in a platter with two pieces of 
chicken on top and a spoonful of the gravy; 
or if you wish to send it to the table family 
style, pour the stew in a dish and heap 
the rice all around as a border. 

3J6— CHICKEN MARYLAND STYLE. 

Singe and pick the chicken free from 
pinfeathers, split the chicken down the 
backbone, draw and wash, then divide 
into halves by chopping through the 
breastbone, then loosen the joints with a 
blow of the cleaver; dredge them 
thoroughly with salt and pepper and roll 



52 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



in flour. Cover the bottom of a baking 
pan with thin slices of salt pork, bake 
these in a moderate oven until nicely 
colored and the fat all is out. Take up 
•what remains of the salt pork, and put in 
the chicken, skin side down, bake in a 
hot oven about three-quarters of an hour, 
or less if they are very small chickens; 
baste every ten minutes; when they are 
brown on one side turn over and brown 
the other side, do not let the contents of 
the pan get too brown or scorch; take 
the chickens out, add a piece of butter 
and a pint of milk to the contents of the 
pan, let it come to a boil on the range, 
and thicken with flour; strain, and serve 
a spoonful with each order of the chicken. 



317— BOILED CHICKEN AUX OEUFS 
(EGG SAUCE). 
Boil the chicken whole in salted water; 
when done remove the skin carefully so 
as not to injure the appearance of the 
chicken but improve it. Make egg sauce 
as directed in No. 146, pour it over the 
chicken, garnish with slices of hard 
boiled eggs. If served in individual dishes 
it is unnecessary to garnish. 

3Ja-CHICKEN CUTLETS A LA 
JARDINIERE. 

Only the four principal cuts of chicken 
can be used for this entree, the remainder 
may be kept for croquettes, chicken 
salads, or any other entree demanding 
cut up chicken. Cut off the legs at the 
second joint, and trim the wings at the 
first joint, removing them with as much 
breast meat as possible, boil them ten 
minutes in salted water, take them out 
and lay in a pan with a weight on top, 
when they are cold scrape off the skin, 
dip in cracker meal, then in beaten eggs, 
and cracker meal again; fry them in a pan 
of hot lard. If the chickens are not par- 
boiled and cooled they will not retain their 
shape when fried; the end of the bones 
should be scraped to imitate lamb chops. 
Cut some vegetables in fancy shapes, or 
if you have no fancy cutter shred them of 
even size; carrot, turnip, green peas, and 
squash make a good variety; co®k them 
in water, drain them dry, mix in a light 



cream sauce. Serve a cutlet in each dish 
with some of the vegetable mixture 
poured all around. 

3J9— STUFFED ROAST CHICKEN. 

Young fat hens about a year old are 
the best fowls to roast as they can be 
roasted without previous boiling. Singe 
draw and wipe thoroughly; stuff with 
dressing as directed in the following rec- 
ipe: sew up and tie the legs, or you may 
thrust the legs into the body by just 
making a small cut on each side of the 
vent and pushing in the end of the legs; 
in this way it presents a nice compact 
appearance; brush over with butter and 
baste several times. 

320— BREAD STUFFING FOR 
CHICKEN. 

Stuffing should not be made so moist 
that it cannot absorb all the juice of the 
meat nor should it be stuffed solid; the 
idea of stuffing is to impart the flavor of 
the dressing to the meat, and vice versa. 

I lb. of bread. 

yi teaspoonful of powdered sage. 

I cup of stock or warm water. 

I cup of roast pork or fried sausage fat. 

Salt and pepper. 

Chop the bread fine in a wooden bowl, 
add the sage and other seasonings; mix 
the warm fat and water together and pour 
over the bread. 

32J— CHICKEN PATTIES. 

1 chicken. 

I cupful of cream. 

Piece of butter the size of an egg. 

A basting spoonful of chopped parsley. 

Salt and pepper. 

Puff paste. 

Pick the chicken meat from the bones, 
cut it into small dice. Make a sauce of a 
cupful of the broth, butter and cream, 
season with salt and pepper and thicken. 
Throw in the chicken. Cut thin oval 
shapes of puff paste about three and a half 
inches long, brush over with an egg mix- 
ed with its volume of water, bake a gold- 
en color; when done split them; place 
the bottom crust on an individual dish 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



S3 



and a spoonful of the chicken prepara- 
tion, lay the top crust over; garnish with 
cubes of boiled potatoes and sprigs of 
parsley. 

322— CHICKEN PATTIES, NO. 2. 

Line muffin tins with puff paste rolled 
out thin, fill them with flour so that they 
will retain their shape. Cut round pieces 
of the puff paste of the right size to fit 
the top of the shells, brush over with eg,g 
and water, bake a nice brown. Shake 
out the flour from the patty shells, fill 
them with the chicken preparation men- 
tioned in recipe No. 321, put on the lid 
and ser\'e. 

323— BRAISED CHICKEN. 
Cut the chickens in halves and flatten 
with the broad side of the cleaver, put 
them in a kettle which has a good tight 
cover, throw in a half cup of minced salt 
pork to every chicken, salt and pepper 
and a piece of nutmeg, a pinch of cloves, 
and a half of a minced onion, put in just 
enough stock to prevent burning, put the 
lid on and cook in the oven; when done 
strain the liquor, skim oflf the superfluous 
fat, and thicken with browned flour. 

324— CHICKEN WITH TOMATO 
SAUCE. 

Cut the chicken in joints, roll them in 
flour, dredge with salt and pepper, fry in 
butter or olive oil, when done take the 
chicken out and put a pint of tomatoes in 
the pan with a cupful of the broth, stew 
down to about a pint, thicken with flour; 
heap the chicken on a dish and strain the 
sauce over it. 

325— CHICKEN A LA MARENGO. 

Prepare the chickens as for the preced- 
ing recipe, add to the sauce when made a 
basting spoonful of sherry, half a cup of 
cepes or mushrooms, grate in a clove of 
garlic; serve as the preceding with mush- 
rooms and parsley for a garnishing. 

326— FILLETS OF CHICKEN. 
Remove the breast of the chicken in 
one piece, lay them on a table and divide 



in two lengthwise. Peel and boil two 
medium sized cucumber for the meat of 
each chicken (four fillets), when done 
tender mash it through a sieve, season 
this puree lightly, take two basting 
spoonfuls of it mixed with an equal quan- 
tity of thick white sauce; dip in each 
chicken fillet; roll it in cracker crumbs, 
dip in beaten egg, and cracker crumbs 
again; fry in hot lard, and drain on a 
sheet of manila paper. Season with salt 
and white pepper the remainder of the 
puree of cucumber, put a spoonful in each 
individual dish with a fillet of chicken in 
the middle. 

327— FILLETS OF CHICKEN AUX 

ASPERGES. 

Asparagus Tips. 

2 chickens. 

I pint of rich cream sauce. 

I cupful of green asparagus tips. 

lyi lbs. of red corned tongue. 

Cook the chicken in salted water, when 
done remove the breast so as to make 
four portions of white meat from each 
chicken, the best way to proceed is to 
remove one side whole, then cut it in two. 
Lay the pieces of chicken in the center of 
an individual dish, coat it with a spoon- 
ful of rich cream sauce made as directed 
in recipe No. 321. Boil the asparagus in 
salted water and alternate around with 
pieces of the tongue, cut of length and 
size to match the tips. 

328— BREAST OF CHICKEN, A LA 
CASTELANE. 
Prepare the breast of chicken as de- 
scribed for the preceding recipe; instead 
of using asparagus tips, arrange slices of 
truffles and corned tongue all of even 
size, around the dish. 



329— FILLET OF CHICKEN, A LA 

REGENCE. 
Disjoint the legs and wings with the 
brea.st so as to make four portions of each 
chicken, lay these on the table, open so 
as to remove the bones from the legs, 
cutting only on one side; split the breast 
open. Replace the cavity made by tak- 



54 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKlvRY. 



ing out the boue of the leg with the Pa- 
risian croquette preparation, inclose a 
spoonful in the open breast, roll these up 
in thin slices of salt pork, tie them up 
compactly with twine, simmer at the side 
of the range until tender, cut the twine 
so the salt pork will fall off and serve on 
a fanc)' shape of buttered toast. 

330— SUPREME OF CHICKEN, A 
L'ECARLATE. 

Boil the chicken in stock seasoned 
with a half cup of minced salt pork and 
lemon cut in quarters, and salt; when 
done cut in boneless portions, make a 
supreme sauce as directed in No. 321 and 
pour over each portion of the chicken. 
Cut strips of red corned tongue smaller 
than a pencil, lay them across the dish 
and finish garnishing with red beet 
and sprigs of parsley. 

331— CHICKEN IN TARTARE. 
Boil the chicken in salted water, when 
cold make two portions of each leg and 
three of the breast, dredge with salt and 
pepper, roll in flour, dip in beaten eggs 
and water, then in cracker meal; fry in 
deep lard; serve M'ith tartare sauce and 
garnish with green pickles. 

332— FRIED CHICKEN LYONAISE. 
Boil and fry the chicken as directed in 
the preceding recipe; serve these on a 
bed of frizzled onions. Slice the onions, 
throw them in a kettle of hissing hot lard , 
they will immediately separate in rings; 
when they are of a nice color and crisp 
take them out and drain carefully. 

333— CHICKEN FRICASSEED WITH 
MUSHROOMS. 
Cut each chicken in ten portions, pro- 
vided they are not extremely small, boil 
these with just enough stock or water to 
cover them, throw in a basting spoonful 
of butter or fat salt pork minced extreme- 
ly fine, salt and pepper; when done drain 
off the liquor and add enough water to 
make one pint, then put in one cup of 
milk; season more if necessary, and thick- 



en with flour; throw in a cupful of button 
mushrooms; pour over the chicken; serve 
with a border of mashed potatoes. 

334— CHICKEN CURRY. 
Cut the chicken in small pieces ( 18 or 
20) boil in enough water to cover it; add 
a basting spoonful of minced salt pork, 
one minced onion, teaspoon ful of salt; 
when almost done throw in a tablespoon- 
ful of curry, a little more or less accord- 
ing to taste; thicken with corn starch. 
Cook a teacupful of rice according to rec- 
ipe given elsewhere in this book; when 
ready mix with the chicken curry. Serve 
verv hot. 

335— FILLET OF CHICKEN, 
PAUNCEFORTE. 
Boil the chicken an hour in salted wa- 
ter; let cool and cut off the breast in three 
slices; spread over each piece forcemeat 
made of the chicken legs and cream 
sauce, smooth over with a knife dipped 
in hot water; brush over with beaten ^gg 
and cover half of them with chopped 
truffles and a dusting of bread crumbs; 
the other half with chopped ham and 
bread crumbs; bake them in the oven 
and serve with a puree of cucumbers. 
Garnish the dish with slices of truffle and 
thin leaves of heart lettuce. 

..* 
336— CHICKEN SAT'TE AUX 
HARICOTS. 
Cut the chicken in small pieces and fry 
in butter until tender, dredge with salt 
and pepper. Make a sauce of a pint of 
brown gravy, a half cup of stewed toma- 
toes, and one-fourth cup of ordinary white 
wine, boil fifteen minutes and strain, sea- 
son to taste, add a half cup of green peas, 
as much of string beans, and a basting 
spoonful of minced parsley. Serve three 
pieces in each dish with enough sauce to 
coat it nicely. Garnish with fried bread 
cut in small round shapes and bright 
green peas. 

337 -CHICKEN CUTLET, TOMATO 
SAUCE. 
Roil the chicken in salted water, when 
done cut it up in joints and cool with a 



PRACTICAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



55 



weight OH top; give them a double bread- 
ing iu the usual way; fry in hissing hot 
lard, and drain on manila paper; serve 
with tomato sauce. 

338— CHICKEN SOUFFLE IN CASES. 

Pound the white meat of one chicken 
through a sieve so as to obtain a smooth 
paste. To a cup of the chicken paste add 
a tablespoonful of butter, two basting 
spoonfuls of cream and two eggs, whip 
the whites and yolks separately, add the 
whipped whites last; bake in paper cases 
as directed for souffle or partridge. 

339— PATTIES OF FOWL L' IM- 
PERIAL. 
Make patty shells with a copper shape, 
dip in batter as directed in Part III of 
this book. Prepare the filling with the 
breast of chickens minced extremely fine 
and an equal quantity of rich cream 
sauce; fill the shells two-thirds full of this 
chicken cream, whip enough eggs to heap 
on each patty; salt the eggs and color 
them green with parsley juice, bake in a 
slack oven just enough to set; serve on 
fancy lace paper. 



^ 



340- 



-A PUREE OF CHICKEN FOR 
THE SICK. 
Cook a chicken in salted water until 
very tender, when done pick from the 
bones carefully, pound the meat through 
a sieve, put it back in the broth, add 
enough milk to make it the consistency 
of cream, boil once and add a tablespoon- 
ful of liquid pepsin. 

341— POTAGE OF CHICKEN, A LA 
RICHELIEU. 
Boil a chicken in water with a season- 
ing of salt, white pepper, a minced onion, 
a carrot, stalk of celery and a grating of 
the rind of a lemon; when done take 
the chicken out and strain the broth 
through a napkin, there should be about 
three pints, boil this down to one quart, 
then add a quart of milk and a piece of 
butter the size of a lemon, or if the chick- 
en is very fat dispense with the butter 



and skim the superfluous fat; thicken 
slightly with flour, whip in the yolks of 
three eggs, strain through a sieve and 
keep hot in a bain marie (double dish); 
add a half cup of blanched almonds split 
in halves and as much of chopped mush- 
rooms. Roll out a thin sheet of puff 
paste, cut little squares the size of a nick- 
el, brush these over with beaten eggs, 
bake in the oven until brown ; serve four 
or five in each plate. 

342-HOW TO MAKE CHICKEN 
TENDER. 

It may be a good deal of trouble to ac- 
cept the following rule but the result will 
be a surprise. Do not bleed the chickens, 
but wring their necks and plunge them 
immediately in cold water and let them 
remain twenty-four hours. It will be 
rather difficult to pick them, but it can 
be done nicely with a little patience; the 
chickens will be white and juicy. 

343-TURKEY. 
Leave aside the old prejudice that a 
turkey boiled is a turke}^ spoiled. There 
is no worse abomination than a badly 
cooked fowl, especially a turkey. A cock 
turkey is the best for roasting, but an old 
turkey or hen is preferable boiled and it 
will lose nothing of its flavor; it is espec- 
ially good with oysters, mushrooms, or 
white sauce, can also be stuffed, boiled 
and served with cranberry sauce. 

344— ROAST TURKEY. 
Pick and singe the turkey, take off the 
wing to the first joint as there is little or 
no eating on them when roasted; wash 
carefully and stuff with bread dressing 
made as directed in recipe No. 320. 
Thrust the legs into the body by cutting 
with a knife on each side of the vent and 
pass in the joint at the end of the drum- 
stick; put it into a baking pan, dredge 
over with salt and pepper; add a pint of 
water and a little piece of butter or a 
spoonful of the drippings; roast from two 
to two and a half hours. Keep a sheet 
of buttered paper over the turkey for the 
first half hour to prevent the skin from 
blistering, remove it at the first basting 



56 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



so that the turkey will brown, when done 
skim the grease and make gravy in the 
pan ; do not strain ; have a dish of cran- 
berries on the table. 



345— BOILED TURKEY WITH SALT 
PORK. 

Clean and wash the turkey, thrust the 
legs into the body as directed in recipe 
No. 344, boil in salted water, when it has 
boiled two hours put in 12 slices of 
streaked salt pork. When the turkey is 
done make a white sauce of a pint of the 
stock, piece of butter the size of an egg 
and flour to thicken. Serve with a slice 
of the pork and a spoonful of the sauce. 

346— BOILED STUFFED TURKEY, 

CRANBERRY SAUCE. 
Make a bread stuffing as directed in 
recipe No. 320, and stuflF the turkey a 
little more solid than you would to roast, 
sew up the openings at the crop and vent, 
and tie down the legs, boil until tender, 
put it in a baking pan in the oven for a 
few minutes so that the water that may 
have gotten in may run out. Serve with 
cranberry sauce. 



347— BOILED TURKEY, OYSTER 
SAUCE. 

Boil the turkey as directed in preceding 
recipes and serve with oyster sauce No. 
145- 

348— LARDED TURKEY WITH 
MUSHROOMS. 

Lard the turkey with lean bacon using 
the coarsest larding meedle, boil until 
tender; make a bechamel sauce, add a can 
of mushrooms to it; serve a spoonful on 
each portion of the turkey. 

349— TURKEY BOILED WITH 
CELERY. 
Clean and wash the turkey, thrust the 
legs in the body as directed elsewhere, 
boil an hour then add two heads of celery 
cut in finger lengths, and boil gently un- 
til the turkey is tender; reduce the liquor 



to about a quart, throw in the green 
celery leaves, let come to a boil again; 
add a piece of butter the size of a lemon, 
thicken with flour and rub through a fine 
sieve, serve a spoonful over each portion 
of the chicken, sprinkle with chopped 
green celery leaves. 



350— MINCED TURKEY WITH 
POACHED EGGS. 

Use the remnants of the roast turkey, 
pick off the meat carefully, cut it in very 
small dice, moisten with cream sauce and 
butter or stock only, season to taste ; serve 
on buttered toast with a poached egg in 
the middle; garnish with quartered 
lemon. 

351— TURKEY PATTIES. 
Make patty shells as directed for oys- 
ter patties. Cut the turkey in small dice 
and mix them with an equal quantity of 
cream savice; fill and serve. 



352— FRIED FILLET OF TURKEY. 
If you have any cold boiled or roasted 
turkey left, the boiled preferred, cut in 
portions as even as possible, dredge with 
salt and pepper, roll in flour, dip in beaten 
egg and roll in cracker meal, fry in hiss- 
ing hot lard, serve with green peas. 

353— TURKEY CROQUETTES, TO- 
MATO SAUCE. 

Use the remnants of boiled or roasted 
turkey, pick the meat and cut it into very 
small dice, to each cup of turkey meat 
add a half cup double cream sauce, when 
cool make into shapes of chicken cro- 
quettes, bread in the usual way, fry in 
hissing hot lard. Make tomato sauce as 
directed elsewhere and serve a spoonful 
with each croquette. 

354— DOMESTIC DUCK. 
Can be cooked in about the same ways 
as wild duck. It being difficult to tell 
the age of ducks after they are carefully 
dressed, the best way to proceed if you 
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PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



57 



young duck is to roast it with a good deal 
of water in a pan with a greased paper 
over, and do not attempt to reduce the 
gravy or brown it until the legs are ten- 
der; then remove the paper and if neces- 
sary take out some of the gravy in the 
pan and brown it to a nice color; serve 
with apple sauce; or again they may be 
stuffed witli any turkey or chicken dress- 
ing and served with giblet sauce. 



355— DUCKLINGS WITH GREEN 
PEAS. 

Roast the young ducks as j'ou would 
spring chickens, they will cook in thirty 
or thirty-five minutes. Serve half a duck 
with imported green peas. 



356-SAUTE OF DUCKS, WITH 
TRUFFLES. 

Cut the duck in small pieces, fry in a 
pan with a very little butter; dredge over 
with salt and pepper. Make Bordelaise 
sauce No. 138, add to it sliced truffles. 
Serve two pieces of the duck with a 
spoonful of the sauce over; garnish with 
slices of truffles, corned tongue and 
sprigs of parsley. 



Jit 



357— DOMESTIC GOOSE ROASTED. 
Draw and clean the goose and fill with 
bread stuffing No. 320; dredge with salt 
and pepper, and put enough water in 
the pan to prevent the corners from burn- 
ing; serve with apple sauce. Another 
way is to stuff the goose with sliced ap- 
ples. If the goose is old parboil an hour 
before roasting. 



Jt 



358-BOILED GOOSE WITH BAKED 
APPLES. 
Boil the goose in salted water until 
tender. Core a dozen large apples and 
bake them in the oven with a piece of 
butter in the cavity made by removing 
the core; serve one with each portion of 
the goose. 



359— CHESTNUT STUFFING FOR 
TURKEYS AND CHICKEN. 

]4 lb. of minced cooked veal. 

4 ozs. fat salt pork. 

4 ozs. bread panada. 

I egg. 

Salt, pepper and powdered thyme. 

Juice of half a lemon. 

Mix all the ingredients together and 
add 25 large chestimts, boiled in salted 
water then peeled and the inner skin 
scraped off, mash them as you would po- 
tatoes and mix with the stuffing. 

Sausage meat can be used in place of 
the cold veal. 

360-SAUSAGE MEAT STUFFING. 
Sausage meat makes excellent stuffing 
with the addition of half its volume of 
bread panada. 

.^ 

361— CHESTNUT SAUCE. 

Boil 50 large imported chestnuts, peel 

and scrape off the inner skin, cut them 

in halves and mix with the turkey gravy. 

362— PUREE OF CHESTNUTS. 
A good accompaniment for roast do- 
mestic or wild turkey and chickens. 
Boil 25 large imported chestnuts for half 
an hour, peel and scrape off the inner 
skin, wash them in cold water and boil in 
chicken broth an hour and a quarter 
longer; mash them like you would pota- 
toes; season with salt, add butter and 
milk. 



363— ROAST GREEN GOOSE. 

(Young Goose. ) 
Green goose should not be stuffed, but 
roasted like ducklings and served with 
ma.shed sweet potatoes. 



364— GOOSE STUFFED WITH 
POTATOES. 

Roasted in the usual way, but stuffed 
with mashed potatoes and fried onions 
mixed in, use two large onions to every 
cupful of mashed potatoes. 



Meats — Roasted^ Broiled^ Boiled* 



365— ROAST BEEF. 

The best cut of beef to roast is the short 
rib. Each rib will -weigh on an average 
of two pounds when trimmed ready for 
the pan. A two rib roast is a nice size 
for a family of ten and there should be 
enough left for cold sliced roast beef, .so 
delicious with celery salad. It is at its 
best when ju.st done and the grav}' flows 
freely as soon as it is cut. It should not 
be put in the oven a long time before the 
meal is ready, but you should calculate 
to put in the roast beef just an hour and 
a quarter before dinner. Dredge the beef 
with salt and pepper, have the pan hot, 
put in the meat with barely enough water 
to prevent the corners of the pan from 
burning. If the oven is very hot it will 
seal the meat, so to speak, by a quick 
surface baking and prevent the juice to a 
certain extent from oozing out; this will 
take fifteen minutes and not vinlil then 
should the stock or water be added to the 
pan. Use about a quart of the stock for 
basting, do not use it all at once, but 
baste frequently with a ladle full. The 
gravy should not be thickened in the pan, 
but served in its natural stale. The 
French call it au jus, which very proper- 
ly means "own juice." In England it is 
a practice in private families to pour the 
gravy in the dish in which the meat is 
carved. In carving a considerable quan- 
tity of beef juice runs out at each cut, 
this is mixed with the gravy in the dish 
and served with every slice. It is proba- 
bly not as cleanly a way as to serve the 
gravy in a side dish, but it is so succulent 
and nourishing that etiquette should be 
set aside for once. 

In England the national accompani- 
ment of roast beef is the Yorkshire pud- 
ding. I would advise every reader to try 
Yorkshire pudding with their roast beef, 
feeling confident that if tried once it 
would not be the last lime. 



366— YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

The original Yorkshire pudding is 
baked in a reflecting oven underneath the 
beef roasting on a spit, catching the gravy 
and baking at the same time. This is 
not practical and moreover is so long and 
difficult, and there being another way 
of obtaining almost as good results that 
I will not advocate this mode of cooking. 
It will have almost the original richness 
if you are careful to follow the directions 
given for roasting beef in No. 365, and 
bake the pudding only 15 minutes before 
it is time to serve. Cut in oblong pieces 
with a slice of the beef on top and a good 
deal of the gravy. 

I Y2 cups of flour. 

An even teaspoonful of baking powder. 

3 cups of milk. 

A basting spoonful of melted butter. 

3 eggs. 

Salt. 

Mix the baking powder thoroughly 
with the flour, then sift, mix with the 
milk, avoid any lumps, add the melted 
butter, the salt, and lastly the eggs well 
beaten, beat the mixture quicklj' for five 
minutes. Grease a baking pan small 
enough so that the mixture when poured 
in will be half an inch thick, make it hot 
in the oven and pour in the batter. 



367— ROAST BEEF, WELL DONE. 

Well done beef can be juicy and the 
gravy will flow the same as the rare, al- 
though in smaller quantities, if managed 
in the same way. When rare roast beef 
requires one hour, let the well done re- 
main in the oven twice as long. Or you 
may cut the thin end of the rib by sawing 
off and put it in the pan with the thicker 
part, use the thin for well done and the 
thick for rare, but of course the choice 
cuts will be the rare. As a general rule 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKKRY. 



59 



it is very unusual to find tastes so widely 
different in one family, so it may be pref- 
erable to cook it without sawing off the 
ends and all in one way, but as we must 
cater to everbody's taste we must direct 
likewise. Basting is an important matter 
in roasting beef. Many authors of cook 
books will advise to turn the beef very 
frequently in the pan and that it will an- 
swer the same purpose as basting, but if 
you baste with the spoon and turn over 
only once you will not have to stick the 
fork in the meat so often, thus punctur- 
ing the beef and letting the juice escape. 
Too much care cannot be exercised in 
catching the gravy in rare or well done 
beef as it is really the essential part of 
perfection in the serving of roast beef. 

36&— ROAST RIB ENDS OF BEEF. 

Use the piece of the ribs that are sawed 
off from the end of the rib roasts; these 
will take three hours and a half to cook; 
they will be well done, but make a deli- 
cious dish. The glaze or gravy will be so 
much richer than the ordinar}' juice that 
it appears as a dish of diflferent nature 
altogether. Put in a pan and sprinkle 
liberally with salt but no pepper; put in 
a quart of stock or water and a ladle full 
of drippings that are fresh and sweet, let 
them simmer in the oven for three hours 
or so with water in the pan all the time; 
when tender you may put the pan on the 
top grate of the oven and let the water 
evaporate and the meat get brown; turn 
the meat frequently so as to brown it all 
around; when done skim oflf the super- 
fluous fat; add a little pepper, and salt if 
necessary, to season to taste. Cut pieces 
of beef about an inch thick with a rib to 
each order and a spoonful of the glaze. 

These cuts are commonly called in 
hotels and restaurants "short ribs of 
beef," but this is erroneous as the short 
rib is the choicest roast. 



369— FLANK ROAST. 
Cook as directed in recipe No. 368. It 
may take a little longer to cook, but will 
be tender if you keep water in the pan. 
When done boil the gravy to a glaze. 



370— STUFFED FLANK OF BEEF. 

Split the flank and lay it on a table, 
spread all over with a turkey dressing, 
roll it up and tie with twine; roast as di- 
rected for rib ends. To make a nice, neat 
roll you must not spread the force meat 
in such a manner that it will come out at 
both ends or where the roll comes to- 
gether; to prevent this leave the edges of 
the flank clear of the dressing and sew up 
the ends. 



371— BOILED STUFFED FLANK OF 
BEEF. 

Proceed as directed in the preceding 
recipe; put in a kettle with enough wa- 
ter to cover it and one onion, two cloves, 
a tablespoonful of salt and one of bruised 
pepper corn; boil until tender; may be 
served with mustard sauce, or may be 
served cold sliced across the grain. 

372— BOILED BEEF WITH HORSE- 
RADISH. 

Flank, rib ends, or even the meat from 
the shanks of the beef boiled tender in 
the soup kettle are good served with 
grated horseradish in the dish. Use the 
broth for stock, consommes, and other 
purposes 



373 -SALT BEEF. 

There is a distinct difference in taste 
between plain salted beef and corned 
beef. Salted beef seems popular with the 
German and Knglish and is certainly good 
eating with Brussel sprouts, stewed peas, 
green beans, cabbage, or boiled vegetables 
of any kind. 

To salt beef proceed as follows: Take 
a flank, round, or rib ends, rub it all over 
with salt, put it in a covered jar and rub 
with salt ever day for a week then wash 
it in cold water and it is ready to use. 



374— UNNKCESSARY BONING OF 

MEAT. 
It is a very objectionable practice in- 
deed to bone all kinds of meat. Some 



6o 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKBRY. 



butchers go so far as to bone a prime rib 
roast thus destroying the individuality of 
the meats and making them look all 
alike. It may be easier carving to simply 
slice off a roll of meat from end to end 
but it is easily penetrated by the liquid in 
the baking pan, losing the largest part of 
its gravy through the many unnecessary 
cuts made by the boning, especially the 
roast of beef where the juice is ready to 
burst out from the smallest puncture. 
The only meats that are better boned and 
rolled are those mentioned in the entrees 
where they are accompanied by season- 
ings and cooked in such a way that they 
will appropriate these; and again the 
shoulder of mutton which is so strongly 
flavored and so fat that it is benefited by 
the losing of a good deal of both. 



^ 



375_HOW TO MAKE CORNED 
BEEF. 

Pieces of flank, ribs, and other coarse 
pieces can be made into delicious corned 
beef if the easy directions given here are 
carefully followed. The brine is also 
good for tongues. The saltpeter contained 
in the brine is what gives the corned beef 
its nice pink color. The trouble with 
corned beef generall}- comes from not 
dissolving the saltpeter in water. If the 
saltpeter crystals are put into a strong 
brine that holds in solution all that it can 
possibly hold, it will not dissolve. A 
large earthen jar is the best in which to 
pack the corned beef, and do not forget a 
weight on top. 

2 gallons of water. 

2 ozs. of saltpeter. 

I teacupful of light syrup. 

4 lbs. of coarse salt. 

Dissolve the saltpeter crystals in the 
water, when it is thoroughly dissolved 
add the rest of the ingredients and boil 
all together, skim while boiling, pack the 
meat in the jar, let the brine cool a while 
then pour over the beef. If you are in a 
hurry the brine may be added to the jar 
while hot, otherwise you may cool it be- 
low the boiling point; cover with a piece 
of hard-wood board that will fit inside the 
jar with a clean stone on top. The corned 
beef will be ready to use in about a week. 



376-BROILING. 

Broiled meat is certainly easier of di- 
gestion than the fried meats, beef steak 
especially. Broiled carefully over a clear 
fire it will not lose any of its juices, that 
is if broiled quickly on one side only a 
moment then turned over, not giving 
time for the juice contained in the meat 
to rise to the surface on the raw side; the 
surface is then cooked on each side and 
the juice is sealed in. 

Few families are the possessors of a 
charcoal broiler, but meat can be nicely 
broiled over the glowing coals in the 
range, the only trouble is the smoke and 
smell it occasions. This can be remedied 
by the use of the family broiler patented 
by a chef well known in the business, 
and on sale bj^ Delaware & Timerman, of 
Massena, N. Y. This practical broiler 
can be obtained at a nominal sum, and is 
made so that it fits over the griddle of 
an}' range, and meat can be broiled with- 
out the inconvenience of smoking or 
checking the oven. I do not write this 
as an advertisement, but simply as an 
advice. But to get back to our point, 
beef steak can be broiled over a family 
range and covered with a piece of tin or 
anything else convenient, and if the 
drafts are open, the smoke, or most of it, 
will go up its usual course. To prevent 
the meat from sticking to the iron or 
wire bars of the broiler it should be 
brushed over with butter; the best way 
to do this is to use a small camel's hair 
brush and a little melted butter, and it 
will broil easier and look better for it. 
Naturally when broiling fat mutton or 
pork chops it is not necessary to brush 
over with butter. It is often necessary 
to reduce the troublesome flames caused 
b)' the dripping fat, by throwing in a 
handful of coarse salt on the coal. In 
turning the meat, especially the beef 
steak, the fork must be thrust only in 
the edge or fat. Treated in this man- 
ner the meat will yield a gravy of its 
own after being laid in the dish a few 
moments. 

If you wish to make blood gravy for the 
invalid, cut a few additional pieces of beef , 
broil these on the fire for onl}- a moment, 
lay them in a pan where it is not hot 
enough to cook the gravy and pick with 



Cuts of Beef. 

1. Hind Shank. 

2. Round. 

3. Rump. 

4. Loin. 

5. Flank. 

6. Navel End. 

7. Brisket. 

8. Rib. 

9. Chuck. 

10. Clod. 

11. Foreshank. 

12. Neck. 

Sirloin 1 

Tenderloin > Cut from No. 4 

Porterhouse J 

Spencer Roil, cut from No. 9 




PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



6i 



a fork several times; you will then obtain 
an astonishing amount of blood gravy. 

377— BROILED BEEF STEAK AND 
GRAVY. 

Take a whole sirloin steak, notch the 
edges to prevent curling, and beat it 
on the table with the butt end of a 
coarse knife. Broil it over the fire just 
long enough to color it nicely on both 
sides, put it in a pan with a half cupful or 
more of good fresh butter, as much of wa- 
ter, salt and black pepper; lay this on the 
range until it comes almost to a boil then 
let it set in the oven a few minutes, and 
there you have your old-fashioned beef 
steak. 

378— PORTERHOUSE STEAK. 

Porterhouse steak is considered by 
many as the choicest of all, but this is a 
matter of taste, and again the same cuts 
may taste and look different according to 
the beef from which they are cut. There 
is porterhouse steak almost a foot thick, 
down to four or five inches. No rules can 
be laid down for the selection of beef, but 
you must look it over yourself and thus 
make sure of a choice article. 

379— BEEF STEAK WITH FRENCH 
FRIED POTATOES. 

A tenderloin, a porterhouse, or sirloin 
broiled and seasoned with salt, pepper 
and butter, and a few drops of lemon juice 
squeezed over, and French fried potatoes 
all around. 

French fried potatoes are made by cut- 
ting the potatoes in strips of even size, 
about eight pieces to an ordinary size 
potato, and fried in deep hot lard. When 
they rise to the surface and are of a nice 
golden color drain and shake salt over 
while they are still hot. 



380— BEEF STEAK A L'HOTELIERE. 
Broil the beef steak and lay it c n a hot 
platter, melt a basting spoonful of butter, 
add to it a teaspoon ful of chopped pars- 
ley, then pour it over the stCi'.L. Squeeze 
the juice of a quarter oi a lemon and 



This 



ve the rest in the dish as a garnish, 
recipe is for an individual portion. 



381— BEEF STEAK A LA TOULOUSE. 
Broil beef steak in the usual way. Make 
a sauce of a half cupful of brown gravy 
and half a teaspoonful of bruised pepper 
corns, a teaspoonful of vinegar and a 
quarter cup of water to thin it down. 
Boil rapidly for three or four minutes 
strain and add to it a teaspoonful of 
French capers. 

382— BEEF STEAK WITH MUSH- 
ROOMS. 

One can of ordinary mushrooms will 
make five orders; drain dry, put them in 
a small frying pan with a piece of butter 
the size of an egg, stir until they begin to 
brown then work in a heaping teaspoon- 
ful of flour and pour in a little stock or 
water to make gravy, season with salt 
and white pepper and a squeeze of lemon, 
let come to a boil once and pour around 
and over the beef steak. 

Canned mushrooms bear no comparison 
in richness and delicate flavor with the 
fresh mushrooms eaten in Europe and 
this country. There are a good many 
kinds, some are poisonous; take no 
chances with any of Ihem except the one 
kina which is of a flesh color on the under 
side when very young and darkens to a 
brown color then to black as it continues 
to grow. When these can be obtained 
cut the stem quite close to the mushroom, 
peel off the top, rinse it in cold water to 
free it from grit and fry in enough butter to 
cover the bottom of the pan while cooking. 
They will shrink very quickly and give 
out a very rich, luxurious gravy; this you 
must not allow to dry in the pan; season 
with salt and pepper when they are done, 
this will be in eight or ten minutes. 
Place on the beef steak and pour the 
gravy over. 



383-BEEF STEAK, A L'ESPAGNOLE. 
Put into a frying pan a tablespoonful 
of butter and while it it mt'ii.i.,<, grate a 
clove of garlic and a small white onion, 
let these fry light yellow; add two good 



62 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



sized peeled tomatoes or a quarter of a 
cup of stewed tomatoes, a little pinch of 
cayenne and salt; let these stew down 
until they fry. Broil the beef steak in 
the usual manner and serve with the con- 
tents of the pan dished all around. 

384— BEEF STEAIC, A LA DIABLE. 

(Deviled.) 
Beef steak broiled in the usual manner 
and served with a sauce made of one 
basting spoonful of brown gravy and half 
as much of Worcestershire sauce. This 
recipe is for individual portions. 

385— BEEF STEAK WITH TO- 
MATOES. 
For each portion peel two medium 
sized tomatoes, mash them and season 
with butter, salt and pepper and stew 
them thick without burning; serve these 
around the broiled beef steak. 

386— BEEl'" vSTEAK AUX ONIONS. 

For each portion of the steak slice one 
large onion as thin as possible, fry them 
in a little butter and lard mixed in equal 
proportions in a small pan covered with a 
pie plate; they will be done in four or five 
minutes; then take off the plate and 
brown slightly. Heap in one side of the 
pan and tip it a little so that the grease 
will drain from the onions; sea.son with 
salt and serve on top of the steak. 

3S7— BEEF STEAK WITH SPA- 
GHETTI. 
For each indiviiUuil order boil a small 
half cupful of broken spaghetti, when 
done drain out and warm in the pan with 
a tablespoonful of melted butter and as 
much of tomato sauce or catsup; turn these 
in a hot platter and lay the broiled steak 
on top. 



388— BEEF STEAK WITH OYSTERS. 

Broil beef steak in the usual way and 

serve it with brown oyster sauce No. 124. 



389— HAMBURGH STEAK, 

Put the beef through a sausage cutter. 
To every pound of lean beef mix }( pound 
of clean beef suet and a basting spoonful 
of minced onions or a clove of garlic and 
a seasoning of salt and pepper; flatten out 
to a cake and fry on both sides and serve 
with Lj'onaise potatoes around. Many 
object to either the onions or garlic in the 
preparation of the Hamburgh steak, 
these can be omitted; also the Lyonaise 
potatoes, instead of which use cold boiled 
polatf)es fried a nice brown in butter. 

390— TOUGH BEEF STEAK. 
There are no recipes, no modes of cook- 
ing that will make a tough beef steak broil 
tender. A beef steak quickly broiled over 
hot clear coals in a good broiler, cooked 
rare or well done according to taste, 
with simple sea.soning of butter, salt and 
pepper, all this without standing any 
longer than is necessary to serve, is all 
the cook can do toward serving a good 
beef steak. The first requirement is to 
get good, tender, juicy steak about an 
inch thick, or even more, well matured, 
and steak that does need no pounding. 
It will cook in six minutes if wanted rare 
or ten minutes if well done. 

391— ROAST MUTTON. 
All that has been written concerning 
roast beef applies equally to mutton, 
which is very often wanted rare done, 
especially if you have any English friends. 
There are breeds of sheep that are raised 
for mutton and very often it is preferred 
to lamb. No directions can be laid down 
directing the time of cooking, as legs of 
mutton will vary from three to seven 
pounds, you will have to use your own 
judgment and experience. When it is of 
a nice brown you may pick with a fork 
around the edge of the bone, and if no 
pink juice runs out you may conclude 
that it is done, but do not accept this as a 
given rule. 

392— BOILED LEG OF MUTTON, 
CAPER SAUCE. 

The leg is certainly the proper cut to 
boil, but the boned shoulder may be used 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



63 



to advantage. It may be boiled in a soup 
kettle and the stock used to make a 
Scotch mutton broth. Be careful not to 
pick with a fork as this will tend to make 
it very dry. It will generally cook in 
about three hours. Serve with caper 
sauce made as directed in recipe No. 393. 



393— CAPER SAUCE. 
Make a butter sauce No. 126 and mix 
in a small portion of the capers and 
vinegar. 

394— ENGLISH MUTTON CHOPS. 

Cut the chops of double thickness, that 
is, two ribs in each chop, and take out 
one bone leaving all the meat on the other; 
flatten with the broad side of the cleaver 
but leave it thick; broil it rare or well 
done according to taste; season with salt 
and pepper. 



395-MUTTON CHOPS, TOMATO 
SAUCE. 

Broil mutton chops and pour around 
them tomato sauce made as follows: Boil 
a few tomatoes, or one quart can, mash 
with the back of a spoon and throw in 
tliree or four cloves, a teaspoonful of 
minced onion, thicken with a tablespoon- 
ful of flour and twice as much butter, 
brown together in a frying pan and rub 
the sauce through the strainer; season 
with salt and pepper. 

396— MUTTON CHOPS FAMILY DISH. 
Broil the required number of chops, 
and cut as many slices of thin buttered 
toast the same shape; set the chops on 
end in a dish and a piece of toast alter- 
nately between them. Garnish with 
parsley and quartered lemon. 

397— ROAST LAMB. 

The leg of a lamb will cook in a half 
or three-quarters of an hour, it should be 
just fairly done through and no more; 
cook it in a pan by itself so as to obtain 
its full individual flavor; wash in cold 
water; dredge with salt, white pepper and 



flour, this is done by pressing the sides 
down in the pan of flour and shaking off 
the surplus; place it with the outside up- 
wards in the baking pan which is already 
hot and containing a pint of stock and a 
teaspoonful of salt; when the bone side is 
cooked sufl&ciently so the flour will not 
wash off begin to baste and repeat fre- 
quently; when almost done baste once 
with melted fresh butter. 

398— LAMB CHOPS, AU PETIT POIS. 
Broil lamb chops five or six minutes, 
shake over a little salt and pepper mixed. 
Serve three in a dish overlapping each 
other, and pour green peas all around 
either warmed in butter or cream sauce. 

399— BROILED MUTTON CHOPS. 

Cook in the same way as beef steak 
either rare or well done and serve with a 
small spoonful of melted fresh butter, 
salt and pepper, and sprigs of parsley in 
the dish. 

40(>-LAMB CUTLETS. 

Cut off two ribs together and take out 
one bone, leaving all the meat on the 
other; flatten out with the broad side of a 
cleaver and scrape the end of the bone; 
notch the end so it will not curl , and trim 
off the gristle. If chops are not available 
you may cut the leg in slices, dredge with 
salt and pepper. Roll the cutlets in flour, 
beaten egg and water, and then in cracker 
crumbs; fry in lard and serve with tomato 
sauce as directed in recipe No. 395. 

40 J -VEAL ROAST. 

When veal is young and white proceed 
as directed for lartib. It must always be 
well done, but taken out as soon as done 
and not dried out, for if it is overdone it 
will part into shreads. Serve with brown 
grav)' made in the same pan after the 
veal is taken out. 

402— ROAST VEAL WITH 
DRESSING. 
The real purpose of dressing or stuffing 



64 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



is to impart the flavor of the dressing to 
the meat, and at the same time absorb the 
gravy. Take the shoulder of veal, cut out 
the ijone, split the thickest part of the 
meat to cover the thin parts; spread over 
a thin layer of the bread dressing No. 320. 
Roll up and fasten with skewers. It will 
roast in about two hours. If you have 
any dressing left it may be baked in a pan 
separately, but it should be made quite 
soft with water. 

403-ROAST PORK. 

Pork must always be well done and 
slowly cooked; an ordinary roast of three 
and a half to four pounds will usually re- 
quire two hours, if a leg three hours. 
Serve with brown sauce under the meat, 
as well as apple sauce at one side of the 
dish. 

404-PORK CHOPS WITH GRAVY. 

Fry the pork chops until well done, 
taking good care that the fat in the pan 
does not scorch; take these out of the 
frying pan and lay in the open oven while 
you make a gravy in the pan with two 
cups of milk, a teaspoonful of pepper and 
salt mixed, and enough flour to thicken; 
strain the sauce in the dish over the chops. 

405-FRIED SALT PORK AND MILK 
GRAVY. 

Slice the pork thin and steep it in cold 
water for two or three hours, then dip 
the slices in flour and fry crisp without 
scorching; take out the slices of pork, 
and pour in the pan a pint of milk, salt 
and pepper to taste and thicken with 
flour; serve in a side dish. 

406— HOW TO ROAST SUCKLING 

PIG. 
Cover the pig in the oven with a sheet 
of thick paper well greased, this being 
easily removed for basting and again for 
the last crisping, and it gives you com- 
mand over the heat of the oven and keep- 
ing the pig from baking too brown or 
hard before it is done through. When 
the pig is small and the skin moist score 



along the side, make this correspond with 
the slant of the ribs that it may be carved 
easily, also sever shoulder and leg joints 
inside. When the outside is dry put the 
pig in the oven first on the back then af- 
ter ten minutes take it out of the oven 
and score the skin which will then be 
soft. After being stuffed with onion 
dressing No. 272, the belly should be 
sewed up with a packing needle and 
twine. A whole suckling pig will re- 
quire two hours of careful roasting. 
Serve with a brown sauce made in the 
pan and some of the stuffing, and have 
apple sauce on the table, 

407— APPLE SAUCE FOR MEATS. 

Peel good, ripe apples, cut them into 
quarters and put them into a bright sauce 
pan, add enough water to come up level 
with the apples and stew with the lid on 
until done, while they are stewing throw 
in a little butter; when done mash with 
the back of a spoon and serve hot. If 
the apples are very sour a little sugar must 
be added. 

je 

408— MINT SAUCE. 
The proper sort of mint not being in 
steady demand it is very hard to obtain 
it outside of the city markets. There is 
no proper substitute for mint. Mint sauce 
is cold and is a mixture of finely chopped 
green mint with sugar and vinegar in the 
following proportions: 

1 cupful of white wine vinegar. 
4 tablespoonfuls of chopped green 

mint. 

2 tablespoonfuls of white sugar. 

409— BOILED HAM. 

Scrape and carefully shave off the out- 
side of the ham and saw off the smoky end 
of the kimckle bone; soak in cold water 
twelve hours before cooking; boil from 
2/^ to 3J^ hours according to size; remove 
the rind, trim a little and serve with 
boiled spinach or cold cabbage. 

410— BOILED SPINACH. 
It will take about a peck measure full 
of raw spinach for every ten persons. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



65 



The tender spinach of spring growth will 
hardly take more than ten minutes boil- 
ing and will shrink more in cooking than 
any other vegetable. Pick it over, cut off 
the thick ends of the stems, wash it well 
in cold water to free it from grit, and 
throw it in boiling water in which a little 
salt and baking soda have been added, a 
little soda must be used as it will keep the 
spinach green, too much of it is an injury. 
When done strain and serve with the ham 
or bacon. 

4 n— ROAST HAM. 
Proceed as directed in recipe No. 409. 
Ham will absorb moisture in boiling if put 
on in cold water and heated slowl)\ Al- 
tnough ham can be baked like any other 
meat in a pan of water with drippings and 
greased paper over, it is uni\ersally recog- 
nized best to boil first and then brown in 
the oven. After the ham is out and 
trimmed, sprinkle a little sugar over the 
fat and bake about twenty or twenty-five 
minutes, it will brown a nice golden 
color. 

412— ROAST HAM AU VIN MADERE. 
Roast the ham as directed in recipe No. 
41 r and serve with a sauce made of a pint 
ot brown gravy, a tablespoonful of walnut 
catsup and a basting spoonful of sherry. 



S 



413— ROAST HAM, CHAMPAGNE 
SAUCE. 

The sharp sauce so commonly served 
with ham bears no relationship to real 
champagne. 

^ pint of brown gravy. 

A basting spoonful of vinegar. 

% cupful of sherry. 

A heaping teaspoonful of sugar. 

Mix thoroughly and serve very hot. 



^ 



414— BACON AND SPINACH. 
Proceed exactly as you would for boiled 
ham and spinach, using bacon instead. It 
can also be .served with boiled cabbage. 



4J5— BOILED OX HEART, TOMATO 
SAUCE. 

Boil the heart at least three hours in a 
kettle full of stock or water and add a 
bunch of soup vegetable, salt and pepper; 
when done tender, carve in broad slices 
and ser\'e tomato sauce over it. Wash 
the inside cavities free from blood before 
cooking. Also good served with boiled 
rice and curry sauce. 

416— BOILED PORK AND SAUER- 
KRAUT. 

Wash the sauerkraut in cold water and 
boil three hours. After it has boiled two 
hours throw in slices of pickled pork. 
Serve a slice on top of each order. 

417— BACON AND SAUERKRAUT. 

Proceed as for recipe No. 416 and boil 
the bacon separately for half an hour, 
then throw it in with the sauerkraut. The 
sauerkraut should be well drained and 
served hot. 



418— THE GERiMAN WAY OF COOK- 
ING SAUERKRAUT. 
Wash the sauerkraut in several waters, 
put it in the kettle with enough water to 
cover it with half a cup of minced fat salt 
pork, a minced onion, two large quartered 
apples to every quart; boil two hours then 
add a dozen frankforts. 



4 J9— LIVER AND BACON. 
Liver or bacon can either be boiled or 
fried, this is a matter of individual taste; 
we will recommend frying as the most 
convenient. Slice liver as broad as pos- 
sible but thin. Cut the bacon in thin 
slices, remove the rind and make two 
notches where the rind was so it will not 
curl up. It will fry in five minutes over 
a hot fire. 

420— BROILED CALF'S LIVER. 
Dip slices of calf's liver in flour, shake 
a little salt and pepper over and broil 
them, when about done brush over with 



66 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



soft butter on each side and continue 
broiling until the butter is in a froth. 
Serve immediately. 

421— BROILED CALF'S LIVER WITH 
TOMATO SAUCE. 
Proceed as in the preceding recipe and 
serve with tomato sauce made as directed 
in No. 395. 

422— BOILED CORNED BEEF AND 
CABBAGE. 

This is a dish of national reputation 
and you must uphold it by its careful 
preparation. If the brine is made as di- 
rected elsewhere and the beef used is 
good and fresh when put into the brine 
you have the material to work upon and 
all that is necessary is to boil in water 
until tender. Cut a cabbage in quarters, 
look it over carefully and let stand in cold 
water an hour and a half or two hours; 
when ready to cook put it into a pot of 
boiling water in which you have added a 
little salt and a pinch of soda; it will cook 
in about an hour and a quarter. When 
nearly done drain off the cabbage in a 
colander, put it back in the kettle and 
cover up with liquor from the corned beef 
kettle, if this is really too salty add some 
water to it; boil fifteen minutes more and 
serve with a slice of the corned beef on 
top. 

423— OX TONGUE. 
Ox tongues need three hours to boil 
tender; when done take up and dip in 
cold water, it will then peel off easily. 
Serve with caper, tomato, or sauce pi- 
quante. 

424— TO CURE HAM. 

For three hams of ordinary size use one 
pound of fine salt, three ounces of salt- 
peter crystals pounded fine and one-half 
cup of molasses. Mix these together 
thoroughly and rub each ham with the 
mixture. Pack them skin downward in 
a tight barrel and let them remain in a 
moderate temperature for five days; turn 
them over, sprinkle plentifully with salt 



and let them remain five days longer; 
turn them skin downward again and add 
to the pickle in the barrel enough of 
brine made of three and a half pounds of 
salt to every two gallon pail of water, 
make enough to just cover them; let them 
remain six weeks, then hang up one week 
to dry, and smoke them. 

425— NEW ENGLAND BOILED 
DINNER 

Is looked at with contempt by certain 
people affecting an unusually delicate 
palate, but our thoroughbred Yankee, be 
he the possessor of millions or the poor- 
est man in the land, does not despise a 
boiled dinner just as "mother used to 
make." The directions for boiled dinners 
are found in cook books written before 
the independence of the United States, 
but it appears on Bills of Fare just as fre- 
quently as ever, and the way unostenta- 
tious people dive into a generous dish of 
boiled dinner is a sign of its long exist- 
ence. 

Each individual order consists of 

I slice of boiled corned beef. 

1 slice of boiled salt pork. 

A spoonful of boiled cabbage. 

2 small potatoes. 

2 slices of a large parsnip. 

2 slices of a large carrot. 

I slice of yellow turnip. 

A small red beet cut in quarters. 

Boil the corned beef and salt pork, 
change the water after it has boiled an 
hour. Put in the turnips and carrots, 
boil an hour longer, then put in the po- 
tatoes and cabbage; cook the beets sepa- 
rately. Arrange these daintily in an in- 
dividual platter; use the red beet and a 
few sprigs of parsley to garnish. Nine 
times out of ten it will prove a favorite. 

426— BROWN GRAVY. 
The making of good pan gravy and 
espagnole is one of the hardest things to 
learn without practical example. It is so 
essential that everybody who wants to 
attain perfection should practice making 
both the pan gravy and espagnole. The 
grease in the roast pan is not gravy; if 
you skim off the fat and thicken the 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



67 



gravy that is under you will have a brown 
sauce, but it is not perfect. The right 
way is to bake the gravy in the pan until 
the watery part has all evaporated and 
the fat is like clarified butter and can be 
poured off to the last drop. The brown 
coating that sticks to the pan is the real 
gravy, it should be a light brown color; 
add a pint of water, boil on the range, 
thicken with flour, then strain through a 
fine strainer. This is a good brown gravy 
of nice color, and with the addition of 
tomato sauce makes a good substitute 
for espagnole. 

Jt 

427-ESPAGNOLE. 

The long tedious method by which 
French cooks make the espagnole so 
highly flavored and odorous is not within 
the limits of private families. It can be 
made almost as perfect with brown gravy 
as a basis. To every pint of brown gravy 
use: 

I onion. 

I clove of garlic. 

I cup of tomatoes. 

I carrot. 

I turnip. 

Scraps of ham. 

A piece of butter the size of an egg. 

Mince all the vegetables, mash the to- 
matoes with the back of the spoon. Fry 
the minced vegetables in the butter, 
when they are brown throw in the toma- 
toes and let simmer till almost frying, 
then add a quart of stock and the brown 
gravy, season with salt and pepper, 
and thicken with browned flour; rub 
through a medium sieve. 

428— ROAST CAPONS. 

This is often seen on hotel and restau- 
rant bills of fare, but it is very seldom 
present in reality. A capon is a sterilized 
fowl of either sex fed and fattened before 
it is matured. A caponized chicken will 
weigh twice as much as an ordinary fowl. 
It can be roasted in the same time as 
chicken and have twice the substance. 

429— BROWN CELERY SAUCE. 
Use a pint of chopped celery stalks and 



a quart of turkey or chicken gravy. The 
coarse outside stalks may be used if they 
are carefully scraped to remove the coarse 
fibres. Boil the celery in salted water, 
drain and put it in the gravy, let simmer 
a while. 

430— CRANBERRY SAUCE FOR 
TURKEY. 

I pint of cranberries. 

>^ It), of sugar. 

%, cup of water. 

Pick the cranberries over carefully, put 
them in a bright kettle with the water and 
sugar on top, cook at the side of the range 
with a tight cover that will keep in the 
steam, stir last to break the berries. 

431— CRANBERRY JELLY. 

I quart of cranberries. 

X R). of sugar. 

I teacupful of water. 

Cook at the back of the range without 
stirring or mashing; when done strain and 
let it get cold. 

432-RUMP STEAK WITH MUSH- 
ROOMS. 

Take the tender side of a rump of beef 
sliced about an inch and a half thick, 
pound it thin, brush it over with butter, 
broil just long enough to color it; put a 
half cup of butter in a pan with the liquor 
from the can of mushrooms, dredge over 
with salt and pepper. Lay the broiled 
beef in this sauce with the mushrooms and 
let it remain in the oven a few minutes to 
allow the gravj' to blend in the pan. 

433— FRIED PARSLEY. 
Good to garnish meat or fish served 
without sauce. Frj'^ it in deep lard not 
hot enough to smoke, if too hot the pars- 
ley will lose its color, it will cook in one 
minute, drain on nianila paper, set a mo- 
ment in the oven with the door open. 

434- ROAST HAM, AU PARMESAN. 

Boil and trim as directed elsewhere in 

this book. Mix a pint and a half of sifted 

cracker crumbs with a coffee cupful of 



68 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



grated parmesan, switzer or domestic 
cheese; brown the ham in the oven only 
light; take it out and press upon it all the 
bread crumbs and cheese mixture that 
can be made to stick to it; put it back in the 
oven and brown all over carefully. Can 
be served hot but is much preferable cold. 

435— BROILED ICIDNEYS. 

Sheep's kidneys are the best, calves' 
come next; slice them with the suet on, 
and trim off the surrounding fat except a 
small rim; put them in a fine wire 
broiler, brush over with butter, sprinkle 
with pepper and salt and broil twelve to 
fifteen minutes. Serve with a spoonful 
of melted butter. Kidneys in whatever 
way they may be cooked are tender only 
at two periods, that is when they are 
barely done through and again when 
they are thoroughly done. 

436-PORK SAUSAGE. 
(The old fashioned country style.) 

4 lbs. of lean pork. 

2 lbs. of fat pork. 

1 oz. of salt. 

I oz. of mixed brown pepper and pow- 
dered sage. 

A coffee cupful of water. 

Cut the meat in pieces with a knife, 
sprinkle the spices over and mix all to- 
gether, then finish with the sausage 
cutter. 



437— PICKLED BROILED TRIPE. 

Dry the portions of tripe on a towel, dip in 
flour, shake the pieces so as not to have a 
surplus of tlie flour fill the cavity. Brush 
the broiler witli a little fat, lay on the 
tripe, when thep are partly broiled brush 
over with butter and when this froths 
serve with the honeycombed side up; 
garnish with parsley and quartered lemon. 

438— A SUBSTITUTE FOR SPINACH. 
(Radish Greens.) 
Radish greens make a good substitute 
for spinach if they can be obtained when 
young and tender. Proceed as for spin- 
ach and boil till the stems are tender. 



439— MUSTARD SAUCE. 
Make butter sauce No. 125, add a pinch 
of cayenne and a tablespoonful of pre- 
pared mustard. 



440— OYvSTKR STUFFING FOR TUR- 
KEY, CHICKP:N OR FISH. 
2 doz. of oysters. 
I pint of crackers. 

1 pint of finely minced bread crumbs. 

2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 
I egg. 

Do not scald the oysters, but just drain 
off the liquor and mix with the softened 
butter, beat in the egg and stir in the 
crumbs, season with salt and pepper, put 
in the oysters whole. 

44J~BREAD SAUCE, 
Is made in the pan where turkey or 
chicken has been roasted. When they 
are partly done, if no dressing has escaped 
from the roasting turkey or chicken, mix 
in the gravy a cupful of the dressing kept 
for the purpose, take particular care that 
it does not scorch or burn on the bottom. 
When the fowls are taken out, set the pan 
on the upper shelf of the range until the 
bread crumbs are brown and the water is 
all dried out, pour off the clear fat, add a 
quart of stock and boil on the range for 
a few minutes, look sharp as it is easily 
scorched, strain by rubbing through a 
gravy strainer. 



442 -A GOOD SUBSTITUTE FOR 
SAUERKRAUT. 

Shred some white cabbage.press it down 
in a jar and cover with a brine made of 
one part of vinegar and two of water and a 
basting spoonful of salt; let it stand over 
night; cook it like sauerkraut with pork or 
bacon, add a little vinegar when cooked. 



443-CORNED TONGUE. 
Should be boiled three hours; dip in 
cold water so that it will peel easily; carve 
it slanting across to make long, thin 
slices. Serve cold like ham without sauce, 
but garnished with lettuce leaves. 



^ ^ ^ PART II. t^ OS «« 



■flcW 



ENTREES, 



^^ (^* t^^ ^* t^* t^?* V^ ti- V" k''^ C^ ^^ 
%J*f^5* v'* *^* <^^ ^* 







Vt« 




S A L A 


D S 


AND 


COLD D I S 


H E S 


MAYONNAISE 


AND OTHER SALAD DRESSINGS 


DIFFERENT 


WAYS 


OF COOKING 


EGGS 


H O W 


T O 


MAKE 


. S A N D W I C 


H E S 


HORS 


D'OEUVRESI 


WHAT THEY 


ARE 



Eggs, Salads, Entrees, Etc. 



444— FRffiD EGGS. 
Eggs should be fried clean and hand- 
somely; a frying pan kept specially for 
the purpose should be used, and kept 
rubbed bright. Put in the pan just enough 
lard so the eggs will not stick to the bot- 
tom ; break them in a saucer one at a time 
as there might be bad ones; this is a sim- 
ple matter which often saves time and 
money. 

445— BOILED EGGS. 

Eggs will boil soft in three minutes, 
and hard boiled in eight minutes. Wait 
until the water boils before you put in 
the eggs so you will know exactly when 
they are done. 

446— POACHED OR DROPPED EGGS. 

Have enough water in a sauce pan with 
a little salt and a spoonful of vinegar; 
this makes the eggs poach white; let the 
water boil; put the sauce pan where it 
will barely simmer; break the eggs care- 
fully in a dish and drop them in the wa- 
ter one at a time. Serve well drained in 
a deep dish with a little melted butter on 
top, or else lay neatly on trimmed slices 
of buttered toast. 



^ 



447- 



-SCRAMBLED EGGS, COUNTRY 
STYLE. 

Put a spoonful of melted butter in a 
small egg pan, drop in two eggs, sprinkle 
with pepper and salt and stir around with 
a fork while they are cooking; take them 
out while they are still quite soft and 
slide on a small dish. 



448— SCRAMBLED EGGS, HOTEL 

STYLE. 
Put a spoonful of melted butter in an 



egg pan; beat two eggs with a basting 
spoonful of cream or milk, put these in 
the pan and stir around while they are 
cooking; when set sprinkle with salt and 
white pepper. Serve plain or on buttered 
toast. 



449— BUTTERED EGGS. 

Beat three eggs with a spoonful of milk; 
one of melted butter and a pinch of salt; 
put these in a cup and set in boiling wa- 
ter on the range and stir until cooked 
thick enough. Serve like scrambled 
eggs. 

450— SHIRRED EGGS. 

Butter a small side or vegetable dish, 
drop in two eggs, sprinkle with a little 
salt and pepper, set them in the oven on 
the top shelf, when the whites are set 
send to the table in the dish they were 
cooked in. 

451— PLAIN OMELET. 

3 eggs. 

I tablespoon ful of milk or cream. 

Pinch of salt. 

Beat thoroughly but not light, for if 
beaten light the omelet will raise a good 
deal in the pan, but go down again of its 
own weight before it reaches the table. 
Put a spoonful of butter or lard in the 
pan, let it get quite hot without scorch- 
ing, put in the eggs and when they are 
set around the edges loosen with a knife 
and shake so that the omelet will gather 
at one side of the pan; when the under 
side is a nice color, roll up, turn the 
brown side uppermost, and slide on a very 
hot dish; must be served immediately. 



452-PARSLEY OMELET. 
Mix a teaspoonful of minced parsley 



72 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



with the omelet mixture No. 451 and 
make as directed in the same recipe. 



453— ONION OMELET. 
Mince one medium sized onion and fry 
in a little butter with a plate over so that 
the onion will not brown, they will be 
done in three or four minutes; drain and 
take them out and add to the omelet 
mixture No. 451 and fry as directed else- 
where. 

454— HAM OMELET. 
A heaping basting spoonful of ham 
cut in small dice; make a plain omelet 
mixture, when partly set in the pan strew 
the ham over the surface; fold over and 
serve on a hot platter. 

455— CHEESE OMELET. 
Made as directed for ham omelet with 
grated cheese instead of ham. 

456-OYSTER OMELET. 

See recipe No. 211. 

457— RUM OMELET. 

3 eggs. 

A basting spoonful of milk. 

% cup of rum. 

Powdered sugar. 

Put the eggs, uiilk and a teaspoonful of 
powdered sugar in a bowl and beat just 
enough to mix them. Put a teaspoonful 
of melted butter in an egg pan, pour in 
the mixture and fry without burning, 
slide on a very hot platter, mark the top 
with a wire made red hot in the iire, dredge 
the top with powdered sugar, pour the 
rum around and set it on fire. Serve on 
another dish of larger size with a spoon 
to baste the omelet. 

458— JELLY ORIELET. 
Proceed as directed for plain omelet, in- 
stead of salt use a little powdered sugar. 
When the omelet is set and brown on the 
under side put a spoonful of currant jelly 
in a line in the middle and fold the ome- 



let over so as to shut it in; slide it on a 
hot platter and dredge with powdered 
sugar. 

459— TOMATO OMELET. 
Boil and mash two tomatoes, add a tea- 
spoonful of melted butter, pepper and 
salt and stew nearly dry; make an omelet 
as directed in No. 451, inclose a spoonful 
of stewed tomatoes. Serve on a hot plat- 
ter; garnish with a sprig of parsley. 

460— KIDNEY OMELET. 

Make an omelet as directed in No. 451; 
when it is set and the under side is brown 
place a spoonful of minced kidneys, pre- 
pared as directed elsewhere in this book, 
in a line in the middle of the omelet, roll 
over so as to inclose it; serve on a hot 
platter. 

461— CHICKEN LIVER OMELET. 

Stew the livers in brown sauce until 
they are tender, mince them fine and mix 
just enough of the brown gravy to make 
a thick paste; proceed as directed for kid- 
ney omelet, using the chicken livers in- 
stead of the kidneys. 

462-OMELET A L'ESPAGNOLE. 

I large tomato. 
I clove of garlic. 
I small white onion. 
A pinch of cayenne. 

1 teaspoonful of butter. 
Salt. 

Stew these ingredients all together until 
they are nearly dry, mash with the back 
of a spoon; place the preparation in the 
middle of the omelet as directed in other 
recipes and roll the edge over to inclose it. 

463— OMELET SOUFFLE. 

2 eggs. 

Teaspoonful of water. 
Tablespoonful of powdered sugar. 

3 or 4 drops extract of vanilla. 

Beat the yolks, sugar, vanilla and wa- 
ter until thick and foamy ; whip the whites 
until they are firm enough to hold an egg', 
stir in the j'olk mixture without beating; 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



73 



put a spoonful of clarified butter in an 
egg pan and cook it in the oven. Sprinkle 
powdered sugar over just before you send 
it in; it must be served on a dish as hot as 
the pan in which it was cooked. 

464-HAM AND EGGS. 

Fry slices of ham cut almost as thin as 
blotting paper, when nicely colored on 
both sides it is done, notch the edges so 
it will not curl up. Place the ham on 
one end of the dish and the eggs in the 
other partly over the ham; garnish with 
parsley. 

465— EGGS AU FR03VLAGE. 

For every order use: 
2 hard-boiled eggs. 

1 basting spoonful of soft butter. 
Same of grated cheese. 

Salt and pepper. 

Slice the eggs when hot, spread the but- 
ter over, sprinkle with salt and pepper, 
then the cheese; garnish with small 
squares of cheese and pitted olives. 

466— COLD STUFFED EGGS. 

lo eggs. 

Piece of butter the size of a lemon. 

}4 dozen of anchovies. 

Watercress or lettuce. 

Boil the eggs ten minutes, when done 
drop in cold water, remove the shell, cut 
them in halves lengthwise, remove the 
yolks and pound them with the anchovies 
and butter, return to the whites; serve two 
halves to each order; garnish with water- 
cress or lettuce. 

tut 

467— SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH 
ASPARAGUS. 

2 eggs. 

I tablespoonful of cream. 

I tablespoonful of butter. 

12 asparagus tips. 

Boil the asparagus in salted water, when 
done tender, drain, and keep hot in a 
small sauce pan with a spoonful of but- 
ter. Scramble the eggs in the usual way, 
when they are nearly set mix in the as- 
paragus tips; serve on buttered toast. 
This recipe is for individual portions. 



468— POACHED EGGS, A LA 
CHINOISE. 

Boil a half cup of rice as directed else- 
where in this book, seasoned with salt 
and pepper; poach two eggs for every 
order, serve on a spoonful of the prepared 
rice smoothed down so as to hold the 
eggs in the center of the dish. 

469— BREADED EGGS. 
Poach the egg almost hard, drain, roll 
in sifted cracker meal, dip in beaten egg, 
then in cracker meal again; fry a golden 
color in hissing hot lard. Serve with 
green peas stewed in biitter or cream 
sauce. 



470-DEVILED EGGS. 

Six hard-boiled eggs; cut them in 
halves lengthwise, pound the yolks with 
an equal amount of potted ham, a pinch 
of pepper, a tablespoonful of prepared 
mustard, a basting spoonful of butter, and 
the juice of half a lemon; put back into 
the whites, heaping the surplus on top. 
Serve with salad, or on buttered toast, two 
halves to each order. 



47J— EGGS SCRAMBLED WITH 
TOMATOES. 

Peel a large tomato, remove all the 
seeds, stew it thick with a little butter; 
beat two eggs with a teaspoonful of cream, 
pour this in the pan with the tomato; put 
in a pinch of salt, stir slowly till set. 



472— POACHED EGGS IN GRAVY. 

Have some nice rich brown gravy sea- 
soned with lemon juice; serve a spoonful 
very hot with a poached egg and pickled 
nasturtium strewed over. 

473— SHRIMP OMELET. 

Proceed as directed for plain omelet. 
Warm a heaping basting spoonful of 
canned shrimp in a little butter; when the 
omelet is set put the shrimp in a line in 
the middle, fold over, brown, and set on 
a hot platter with the brown side up. 



74 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



474— ARTICHOKES AND GRAVY. 

Clean the artichokes and let them lay 
in ice water a couple of hours; cut them 
in two and remove the core; put a tea- 
spoonful of salt and a quarter teaspoonful 
of baking soda in a saucepan of boiling 
water; throw in the artichokes and boil 
half an hour; drain and serve with brown 
or cream gravy. 

475— STUFFED ONIONS. 

% doz. large white onions, 

A cupful of bread crumbs and sausage 
meat mixed. 

I egg. 

yi pint of brown gravy. 

Seasoning. 

Boil the onions in water ten minutes, 
drain them and push out about half of 
the insides, chop these fine and mix them 
with the bread crumbs and sausage mix- 
ture; add the egg, pepper and salt and 
stuff the onion with it, heap it a little on 
top if yoxi have stuffing to spare; place 
them in a pan with half a pint of brown 
gravy and steam forty-five minutes. They 
may al.so be baked, but they will not cook 
so nice. 



476— ANTELOPE STEAK SAUTE. 

Saute is the way commonly known as 
frying in butter or sweet drippings. Sea- 
son the antelope steak with salt and pep- 
per and fry. Add a little water when 
they are done so as to make a dark color- 
ed gravy to be poured around in the dish. 
Serve with potatoes No. 151. 

477-BACK BONE STEW, EGG 
DUMPLING. 
A pork backbone sawed oiT between 
the two rib roasts. 

% teaspoonful of sage. 

1 onion. 

yi teaspoonful oi minced red pepper. 
A cup of milk. 

2 eggs. 

2 cups of ilour for iluinpliiigs. 

Flour thickening. 

Chop the back bone in pieces and wash 
in cold water to get rid of any splinters; 
boil about two hours in just enough wa- 



ter to cover; put in the seasoning; when 
boiled down add milk and thicken to the 
consistency of cream. To make the 
dumplings mix the raw eggs with an 
equal amount of ice water, add a little 
salt and stir in flour enough to make 
dough, knead on the table and roll out 
as thin as the thickness of a silver knife 
and cut in narrow ribbons, divide in suit- 
able lengths, drop in a sauce pan of boil- 
ing water, cook twelve minutes. Dip the 
stew up in a deep dish and place the 
dumplings on top. They are nicer and 
neater if cooked separately in this way, 
than if they were mixed with the stew. 



478— BEEF, A LA BRETONE. 

The toughest and coarsest pieces of 
lean beef can be made tender and highly 
flavored in this way. Take a solid piece 
of lean beef that is not tender enough to 
cut into steaks and roasts, that will weigh 
from three to four pounds. 

^ lbs. of fat salt pork. 

I cupful of minced onion. 

1 clove of garlic. 

2 bay leaves. 

Yz pint of common red wine. 

I pint of ale. 

I teaspoonful of white pepper. 

Salt and a pinch of cayenne. 

Mixed spices in a plate to roll in the 
strips of salt pork. 

Soup stock sufficient to cover the meat. 

Roll the strips of salt pork in the spices, 
insert them in the beef by means of a 
larding needle; put the scraps remaining 
in a deep sauce pan with the other arti- 
cles except the stock; warm these and 
put tlie beef on top; put the lid on and 
simmer until nearly done, then put in 
enough stock to come up level with the 
meat, cover tightly and keep gently boil- 
ing at the back of the range from four to 
five hours, turning it over every hour. 
When the beef is tlioroughly tender take 
it up, strain the liquid that remains, 
skim oflf the superfluous fat and reduce 
by boiling to the richness of gravy ; cut 
the meat crosswise of the larding; serve 
with a spoonful of the gravy. If proper- 
ly cooked, beef a la Breton e makes a de- 
licious cold dish. 

If you intend to serve it cold do not 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



75 



reduce the liquid remaining in the kettle 
to more than jelly, cool this in a square 
dish and serve in small cubes all around 
the slices of meat with sprigs of parsley 
for garnishing. 

479— BREADED CALF'S HEAD, TAR- 
TARE SAUCE. 

The calf's head must be scalded and 
scraped, the butchers generally do this. 
A head that is skinned is of no use what- 
ever. Saw it in two, beginning at the 
crown and take out the brains and tongue, 
steep in a pan of ice water two hours and 
drop it in a kettle of boiling water and 
cook until the skin is tender enough to be 
cut with the point of a spoon, take out 
and set away to cool, when perfectly cold 
take out the bones and cut the meat in 
pieces of suitable size for individual or- 
ders; dredge with salt and pepper, roll in 
flour, dip in egg, then in cracker meal 
and fry in hot fat. It is necessary to be 
particular when rolling the pieces in flour 
to coat them well. If not properly fried 
and well drained it will look like boiled 
fat. Serve with tartare or tomato sauce. 

Reserve the brains and tongue for en- 
trees described elsewhere is this book. 

480— CALVES' BRAINS FRIED WITH 
OLIVES. 
Take two sets of brains and drop them 
in a sauce pan of boiling water in which 
there is added a teaspoonful of salt and a 
basting spoonful of vinegar, simmer 
twenty minutes, pour off in a colander 
and let drain. When the brains are cold 
remove all the dark skin and dark streaks; 
cut each half in two, lay them on a table, 
dredge with salt and pepper, roll both 
sides in flour. Set a baking pan on the 
top of the stove with a half cup of melted 
butter and a half cup of drippings, lay 
the brains in and brown them on both 
sides. Serve them hot with a little 
of the melted butter from the pan, with 
leaves and quartered lemons for garnish- 
ing. 

481— BLANQUETTE OF LAMB. 

Cook the breast of lamb whole by boil- 
ing in seasoned stock, then press it be- 



tween two pans until cold and after that 
cut in pieces suitable for individual por- 
tions. Boil the stock the meat was cook- 
ed in until it is very rich, strain through 
a fine sieve, boil again and thicken it, 
then thin down with cream, making a 
white sauce of it. Boil some potatoes, 
when cold cut them in cubes, warm these 
in butter, sprinkle with chopped parsley 
and keep ready to garnish the dish. Make 
the pieces of lamb hot again in some 
seasoned broth; dish out one piece, cover 
with a spoonful of the sauce and some of 
the potatoes around. 

482— BRAISED TENDERLOIN OF 
BEEF. 

Cut a half pound of fat salt pork into 
strips about the size of a common pencil 
and lard a tenderloin of beef with them; 
draw through the beef from one side to 
the other with a large larding needle in 
such a direction that the slices when cut 
will show the spots of fat all through. 
Trim the protruding ends of the salt pork 
a uniform length, put the scraps in a deep 
sauce pan, the tenderloin on top with 

1 onion. 

2 cloves. 

^ a small turnip. 
2 stalks of celery. 

1 small carrot. 

A piece of bay leaf. 

2 cups of stock. 

Cover with a buttered paper, put the 
lid over the paper and simmer at the side 
of the range about an hour and a half, 
adding more stock if neces.sary to prevent 
the contents from burning; take out the 
tenderloin and bake it in the oven to a 
nice brown color. Strain the contents of 
the sauce pan, skim of the fat, boil down 
to a glaze and pour over the slices of ten- 
derloin as they are dished. 

483— CHIPPED BEEF IN BUTTER. 
yi pound of dried beef shaved very 
thin, put )4 cup of butter in the pan to 
cover the bottom, when it is all melted 
add the chipped beef, dredge with pep- 
per and stir until it is hot. Serve hot on 
thin slices of dry toast in individual 
dishes. 



76 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



484 -SQUAB PIE. 

% dozen of squabs, or young pigeons. 

% pound of butter. 

3 cups of stock or water. 

Flour tbickening. 

Pepper and salt. 

Paste to cover. 

Draw and clean tborougblj', cut tlieni 
in balves by splitting down the back first 
and cutting tbrougli the breast- bone; flat- 
ten with the broad side of the cleaver; 
dredge with salt and pepper, roll both 
sides in flour, fry slightly in the butter; 
when they have acquired a light brown 
on both sides put in the pan three cupfuls 
of broth or Avater and let them simmer 
on the side of the stove until tender. If 
the flour in which the birds have been 
rolled has not thickened sufliciently, use 
a little browned flour and season to taste; 
pour in an earthen baking dish and cover 
with a sheet of paste made as directed in 
recipe No. -^05. 

«** 

485— FRICASSEE OF VEAL AND 

MUSHROOMS. 
2 pounds of brisket of veal. 
I slice of salt pork. 
I onion. 

I small blade of mace. 
I lemon. 

1 can of mushrooms. 
4 yolks of eggs. 
Butter and flour. 
Salt and pepper. 

Wash the veal and boil it about half an 
hour, then take it up and when cooled 
divide it across the rib in portions suita- 
ble to serve three to an order. Put in just 
enough stock to cover the pieces of veal; 
put in the slices of salt pork, the onion, 
mace, salt and pepper then simmer about 
an hour. When the meat is done thicken 
with flour, and when that has boiled up 
beat in the yolks mixed with a little 
milk. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon; 
make the mushrooms hot in the frA-ing 
pan with a little butter; dish the veal 
with a spoonfid of the sauce poured over 
and a spoonful of mushrooms; garnish 
with small squares of pufl paste baked in 
the oven. 

•J* 

486— CALF'S LIVER, A LA 
ROBERTS. 

2 pounds of calf's liver. 



Yz pound of fat bacon. 
Mixed spices. 

1 quart of sliced onions. 

Cut the bacon in strips the size of a 
common pencil, roil them in the mixed 
spices, draw them through the liver with 
a larding needle in such a direction that 
they will be sliced across when the liver 
is served. Put the remaining slices of 
bacon in a sauce pan with the liver on 
top, one-half pint of stock and one-fourth 
cup of sherry; cook with the steam shut 
in. When the liquid has boiled away 
and the bacon fries, turn the liver over 
to get light brown on both sides, take out 
and pour the grease out of the sauce pan 
and make thickened gravy out of what 
remains in the sauce pan with a pint of 
stock added; season to taste. Slice the 
onions all of one thickness and fry them 
light yellow, in a pau of hot lard as di- 
rected elsewhere for frizzled onions; they 
will take only two minutes to cook; drain 
them carefully and use for garnishing; 
serve a slice of the larded liver with a 
spoonful of the gravy on top. 

487-ESCALOPES DE BOEUF EN 
DEMI GLACE. 

2 pounds of small pieces of lean beef, 
either the ends of the tenderloin or tips 
of sirloin too small to be used as steak. 

3 pints of soup stock. 

Vz teaspoonfui of black pepper. 

Tablespoonful of salt. 

New potatoes and cauliflower. 

Cut the pieces of meat in even sizes like 
fingers, put them on the range in cold 
stock and boil two hours; there should be 
just enough stock to cover the meat, then 
add the salt and pepper, and boil slowly. 
All you have to do is to let the meat boil 
dow n to a rich gravy, rich enough so that 
it stays on the pieces of meat and makes 
them shiny, they are then glazed, (glace) 
Dish them up with small new boiled po- 
tatoes or cauliflower boiled and sauted in 
butter, with chopped parsley sprinkled 
over. 

.*« 

48S-BLANQUETTE OF SWEET- 
BREADS AND OYSTERS. 
2 calves' sweetbreads. 
I dozen of oysters. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



77 



A cupful of cream sauce. 

Juice of half a lemon. 

Salt, cayenne and mashed potatoes. 

Boil the sweetbread until tender in wa- 
ter, season with salt, pepper and vinegar; 
take them up and cut in squares. Put 
the oysters in a deep strainer and dip in 
the sweetbread liquor one minute to 
shrink them, turn on a plate and cut them 
in halves, mix these with the sweetbreads 
with a squeeze of lemon and a dust of 
cayenne, cover with the cream sauce just 
hot from the pan. Serve little cones of 
mashed potatoes on the dish witli the 
blanquette in the middle. 



489-PIG'S HEAD, A LA RUSSE. 

Nothing bi;t the head of a small porker 
will give satisfaction in making this en- 
tree. Saw it in two, cut off the ears and 
trim all the discolored parts carefully, 
steep in cold water for two hours and 
boil in salted water an hour and a half or 
two hours, or until the bones can be tak- 
en out easily; take it out and when cool 
enough remove the bones. Make a sauce 
of 

2 cups of soup stock. 

I chopped onion. 

1 green pickle chopped. 
A pod of red pepper. 

2 tablespoonfuls of dry mustard. 
Stew the onion in the stock twenty 

minutes; mix the mustard in. a little wa- 
ter and stir it up with the contents of the 
sauce pan; add salt to taste; put in the 
chopped pickle and red pepper; then the 
pig's head. Serve a slice with a spoonful 
of the sauce. 



490-CALVES' BRAIN PATTIES. 

2 sets of brains. 

Butter the size of an egg. 

Salt and pepper. 

Puflf paste. 

Eggs. 

Melt the butter in a good sized fr)nug 
pan, dredge the brain with salt and pep- 
per, and scramble the same waj- as for 
eggs; they will be cooked sufficiently in 
twelve minutes. Roll out the puflf paste 
and make lo patty cases with lids; fill 



these with the preparation. Decorate the 
dish with hard boiled eggs and parsley. 

491— POTTED PIGEONS. 

6 pigeons. 

}4 pound of sausage meat. 

X pound of butter, 

A cupful of stock. 

I teaspoonful of vinegar. 

Pepper, salt and allspice. 

I cup of currant jelly. 

Flour. 

Clean the pigeons, split in halves down 
the back and breast, wipe dry and dredge 
with pepper, salt and allspice. Place a 
spoonful of sausage meat inside and press 
the two halves together. Butter the bot- 
tom of an earthen jar; lay the pigeons 
closely pressed; put in the cup of broth 
and the vinegar, cover the top with a 
flour and water paste as directed for Co- 
lonial venison; set the jar in a pan of wa- 
ter and bake in the oven three and a half 
hours. Mix the currant jelly with its 
equal volume of brown gravy and dish 
the birds out of the jar vdthout displacing 
the stuffing. If the pigeons are not young 
it may be necessary cook longer, for they 
must be tender. 

492— SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES. 

I pound of sweetbreads. 

A cup of fresh mushrooms or a can of 
button mushrooms. 

X lb. of butter. 

X tt) of flour. 

}4 cup of cream. 

}4 cup of chicken broth or light stock. 

)4 a lemon. 

Eggs and cracker meal. 

Steep the sweetbreads in ice-water for 
an hour, and boil in salted water for fifteen 
minntes if they are calves' sweetbread, if 
beef, may boil an hour; cool them, trim 
all discolored portions and cut them and 
the mushrooms in dice; season with salt 
and pepper and lemon juice, then make 
a t hick cream sauce of the broth, butter, 
flour and cream ; mix these with the sweet- 
breads and mushrooms and spread the 
mixture in a pan and set on ice until very 
cold; cut in pieces, roll in flour and dip 
in beaten egg and cracker meal, fry in 
hissing hot lard ; serve with green peas. 



78 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



493— RICE CROQUETTES. 

I4 R). of rice. 

yi pint each of milk and water. 

A tablespoonful or sugar. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

Pinch of salt. 

Wash and boil the rice in the water 
with the steam shut in, add the milk 
when it is half cooked, let it simmer on 
the back of the range until it is dry, mash 



will be left leaning backward and the 
other forward on the surface; insert six or 
more in an even row across, insert anoth- 
er row so alternating that the ends will 
fall between those of the first row, keep 
on until the tenderloin is too thin to lard; 
cut off the thinnest part, cover over with 
the sheet of fat; make the pan hot in the 
oven (the pan should be a long, narrow 
one made for the purpose) ■\^dth a table- 



with the back of the spoon and mix in spoonful of salt, a cupful of stock and a 
the other ingredients, and a flavoring of half cup of melted butter; throw m a 
nutmeg- when cold make up in rolls with slice of turnip, a carrot, one onion and a 
floured hands; fry in deep lard; serve stalk of celery; bake half an hour then 

take cff the sheet of fat; baste thetender- 



with the following sauce : 

494— SAUCE DOREE. 

'/2 cup of sugar. 

I tablespoonful of cornstarch. 

1 pint of water. 

A piece of butter the size of an egg. 

2 yolks of eggs. 
Nutmeg. 

Break the nutmeg in pieces and boil it 



loin with the contents of the pan and al- 
low it to bake fifteen minutes more so 
that the larding will have a nice, hand- 
some color. Boil the remains in the pan 
to a glaze, pour off the clear grease, add 
two cups of stock, and the liquor from 
the can of mushrooms; boil and thicken 
with browned flour, skim again and add 
a basting spoonful of sherry. Carve in 



the water; mix the cornstarch and | small slices, lay these well up to one end 
sugar dry and stir them in, when cooked 



stir in the butter; break the yolks, mix 
w^th a spoonful of the sauce and add 
them ; take the sauce from the fire im- 
mediately and do not allow it to boil 
after the yolks are in; strain and add a 
tablespoonful of brandy and a teaspoon- 
ful of vanilla. 

495 -TENDERLOIN OF BEEF LARD- 
ED WITH MUSHROOMS. 

The fat on the tenderloin strip nmst 
be shaved down so there will be only a 
covering of about half an inch thick left 
on the meat, then raise the edge of the 
fat, separate it from the tenderloin and 
lay it over without completely tearing it 
from the edge so tiiat it will be ready to 
cover when the larding is done; the skin 
of the upper surface must be scored across 
to prevent the tenderloin from drawing 
up 



of the individual dish with a spoonful of 
sauce in the other end and a border of 
mushrooms warmed in the sauce. 

496— SWEETBREADS, AU PETIT 
POIS. 

( Green Peas. ) 

4 large calves' sweetbreads. 

Yz lb. of firm salt pork. 

3 coffeecupf uls of light stock or chicken 
broth. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

I can of imported peas. 

Mashed potatoes. 

The sweetbreads must be large enough 
to split in two; steep them in cold water 
about half an hour and boil in the stock to 
which you have added a spoonful of vine- 
gar and a little salt;drain out and cool them 
pressed between two pans. Set the chick- 
en broth or light stock on the range and 
boil it down to half the quantity. Cut 



in the oven. Cut one-half pound of the pork in very fine strips; lard the 



fat salt pork in strips the size of a pencil, 
cut one end slightly tapering to facilitate 
the larding. Roll these in white pepper 
and salt, insert a strip in the end of the 
larding needle and draw it through the 
top part of the meat, pinch it up for the 
purpose; one end of each strip so inserted 



sweetbreads in regular order, and draw- 
ing the strips through, trim to an even 
shape; melt a little butter in a saucepan 
so as to just grease the bottom and lay 
in the sweetbreads with what remains of 
the salt pork, a piece of onion, a slice of 
turnip, a stalk of celery, a few whole 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



79 



peppers and half the stock; let the con- 
tents of the kettle simmer for half an 
hour, take them up into another dish and 
add the remaining stock to the gravy; 
strain this in a sauce pan and boil down 
to a glaze. Serve with potatoes Duchess 
and green peas. 

497— CURRIED TRIPE, A L'lTAL- 

lENNE. 
yi lb. of fresh boiled tripe. 

4 basting spoonfuls of brown gravy. 
I onion. 

3 hard boiled eggs. 

I teaspoonful of curry powder. 

5 slices of bread. 
Seasoning. 

Chop the onions fine and fry them 
light brown in a spoonful of butter, 
sprinkle the currj' powder over, cut the 
tripe in strips like macaroni and about 
two inches long, put it in the pan and 
shake over the fire until it is coated with 
the curry sauce, season with black pep- 
per and cayenne mixed; add the brown 
gravy; cut the slices of bread very thin, 
trim them , dip one side in drippings and 
set on the top shelf of the range. Dish 
a spoonful of the tripe on the toasted 
bread with quarters of hard boiled egg 
cut lengthwise placed at each end. 



498— BAKED CELERY AND 
CHEESE. 

I quart of celery. 

I cupful of grated cheese. 

A piece of butter the size of a lemon. 

I cupful of brown gravy. 

Pepper, salt and cracker meal. 

Cut the celery in pieces an inch long, 
split the coarse pieces lengthwise and 
boil fifteen minutes in salted water, drain 
and put them in an earthen baking dish, 
sprinkle in the cheese and the pepper, 
pour in the brown gravy and sift the 
cracker crumbs over the top, bake in a 
hot oven about twenty minutes; serve on 
fancy shapes of toast. 

499- STEAMED CORN CUSTARD. 
I can of corn. 
A piece of butter the size of a lemon. 



% teaspoonful of salt. 

% teaspoonful pepper. 

3 eggs. 

I cup of milk. 

Turn the can of corn into a pan and 
mash it with the back of a spoon, stir in 
the melted butter, beat the eggs in the 
milk and mix !this in the corn; may be 
steamed or baked. 

500— BEEF STEW. 

I lb. of beef. 
5 large sized potatoes. 
I onion. 

The meat must not be too lean, a piece 
of flank just off the end of a porterhouse 
is certainly the choicest to stew; cut the 
beef in pieces of even size, put in just 
enough stock or water to cover it and let 
boil slowly for two hours, put in the 
minced onion and the potatoes cut in 
halves; cook until they are done; season 
to taste and thicken slightly with flour, 

.^ 
501— COTELETTES D'AGNEAU AU 
LEGUMES. 
ID lamb chops. 

I peck of cooked .spinach, or any other 
kind of greens. 
20 new potatoes. 
I small cauliflower. 
% cup of butter. 
Some white sauce. 

Scrape the end of the chop bones, flat- 
ten them a little with the broad side of 
the cleaver and notch the ends so they 
will not curl up; dredge with salt and 
pepper; dip each chop in melted butter, 
the butter must be quite warm so that too 
much will not adhere to them, lay the 
chops in a small baking dish. Boil the 
cauliflower and new potatoes in salted 
water, when done drain off and keep 
ready to garnish ,the dish. Boil the 
spinach or other greens until they are al- 
most done, drain in a sieve and press 
gently to get all the water out of it, then 
rub through a strainer with a little sauce 
mixed in it and when you have obtained 
a green pulp mix this with an equal quan- 
tity of butter sauce made as directed in 
No. 125. Cook the chops in the oven, 
pour the green sauce in a dish, lay the 
chops on top with the vegetables around. 



8o 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



502— CALF'S HEAD EM OMELET. 

Split the head, beginning at the crown, 
remove tJde brain and tongue. Wash the 
head carefully and boil it in salted water 
until it is tender enough to pull out the 
bones; dredge with salt and pepper; 
sprinkle with the juice of a large lemon 
and fry each half skin downward in a lit- 
tle butter. Boil the brains in salted wa- 
ter for ten minutes, drain and cool, re- 
move all the skin and discolored portions; 
mash these and beat it up with ten eggs 
and a half cup of soup stock, salt and 
pepper; pour these in a large frying pan 
made hot in the oven, with a basting 
spoonful of butter in it, shake on the hot 
stove and when set fold over and bake on 
the bottom of the oven until light brown; 
turn the brown side up on a very hot 
family sized platter. Cut the fried head 
in slices, place it all around the omelet 
and finish garnishing with quarters of 
lemon and sprigs of parsley. 

503— CELERY A LA CREME. 

Cut the celery in pieces the size of your 
finger, split the broad strips so as to make 
them of even size, tie them in bunches of 
twelve pieces, boil in salted water thirty- 
five minutes, then lay them in a granite 
baking pan and remove the twine. Make 
cream sauce as directed in No. 140, pour 
it over the celery, place on the top shelf 
of the oven until it gets a yellow color 
without cooking very much. Serve on 
individual platters, a bunch to each order. 

504— MOCK OYSTERS. 

1 cupful of canned or fresh corn. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 

A basting spoonful of flour. 

^ teaspoonful of salt. 

^ teaspoonful of white pepper. 

2 eggs. 

Mash the corn, mix in all the other in- 
gredients and beat hard for five minutes, 
drop with the end of a spoon to imitate 
the shape of oysters fried in batter, fry 
light brown on both sides. Serve with 
maple syrup. 

505— HULLED CORN. 
Make a weak solution of concentrated 
lye, steep the corn in this for two days 



then wash twice in cold water and boil 
for four hours and a half; serve in bowls 
with milk. 

506— CURRY OF VEAL, A V 
INDIENNE. 
I lb. of breast or flank of veal. 
I large minced onion. 
I basting spoonful of grated cocoanut. 
I tablespoonful of curry powder. 

1 tablespoonful of flour. 

2 cups of stock. 
Salt and cayenne. 
Juice of a lemon. 

2 cups of boiled rice. 

Cut the meat in small pieces the size of 
a walnut, fry them in a pan with a little 
butter and the onion; when they have ac- 
quired a nice brown color put in the curry 
powder, cocoanut and flour, stir until 
all are well mixed, then add the broth 
and let it stew slowly for an hour; add 
th*; lemon juice, cayenne and salt, skim 
off the fat, and serve with a border of 
rice cooked as directed elsewhere in this 
book. 

507-APPLE FRITTERS. 

4 large sized apples, use the easy cook- 
ing kind; if you cannot get these do not 
attempt to make this kind of apple 
fritters. 

Yz cupful of milk. 

I cup of flour. 

I tablespoonful of melted butter. 

1 tablespoonful of syrup. 

An even spoonful of baking powder. 

Peel the apples and cut in slices about 
a quarter of an inch thick, throw away 
only the end pieces; mix up all the other 
ingredients together and beat briskly for 
a few minutes, dip in the apple slices 
with a fork, see that they are well coated, 
and drop in a pan of hot lard, they will 
fry in about eight minutes, and must be 
of a nice golden color. Break off the 
rough fragments and serve with powdered 
sugar or a sweet pudding sauce. 



^ 



508— CREAM 

A pint of milk. 
3 ozs. of sugar. 



FRITTERS. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



8i 



3 ozs. of mixed cornstarch and flour. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

Vanilla or lemon flavoring. 

Boil the milk with the butter and sugar 
in it, mix the cornstarch and flour with a 
little of the milk, stir it in the milk when 
it boils, whip briskly for a few minutes, 
beat in the yolks of eggs, take off imme- 
diately and flavor with the lemon or 
vanilla, put it to cool in a buttered pan, 
when perfectly cold cut in slices or shapes 
with a cutter, roll them in beaten eggs 
then in cracker meal, fry in hot lard. 
Serve with transparent or wine sauce. 
(See index for recipe.) 

50^— ORANGE FRITTERS. 
Divide the orange in sections, remove 
the white pith and seeds, drop them in a 
pan of hot, thick syrup, take them out 
with a fork and roll them in a pan of 
flour, dip in fritter batter as directed in 
No. 507 and fry in lard. Serve with 
wine sauce. 

510— CLOCHE FRITTERS. 

yi pint of water. 

2 ozs. of good butter. 
X R>. of flour. 

3 eggs. 

Boil the water and butter together, put 
in the flour all at once and stir over the 
fire until you have a firm paste, take off 
and let stand until it is just below the 
boiling point, then beat in the eggs one 
at a time; if the eggs are beaten in when 
the mixture is too cool it will not rise. 
The more you beat the mixture in the 
pan with the back of the spoon the more 
the fritters will rise. 
.^ 

511— BREAD FRITTERS, 

yi pint of water. 

6 ozs. of white bread crumbs. 

A tablespoonful of melted butter. 

3 eggs. 

Boil the water, put in the bread crumbs 
and stir over the fire until you have a 
smooth paste and then add the butter; 
take the paste from the fire and let it 
cool enough so it will not cook the eggs 
as you beat them in. The quality of this 



fritter depends a good deal on the care 
you exercise in selecting good bread 
crumbs. Serve with maple syrup or some 
other sauce. 

5 J2— POTATO PUFFS. 

yi ft. of raw potatoes. 

A heaping tablespoonful of flour; the 
same of cream and sherry. 

3 eggs. 

A teaspoonful of lemon juice. 

A grating of nutmeg. 

Boil the potatoes well done in the usual 
way, drain and mash through a colander, 
while they are still warm, mix in all the 
other ingredients except the flour; set the 
bowl which contains the mixture in a pan 
of ice-water and beat it ten minutes, it 
will then have the appearance of a sponge 
cake batter; beat in the flour a little at a 
time, fry small portions the size of a wal- 
nut in hot lard; drain carefully. Serve 
with brandy sauce. 

513— PEACH FRITTERS. 
Peal and cut ripe peaches in halves; 
make a batter the same as directed in No. 
507 and proceed as directed in said recipe. 
Serve with transparent or wine sauce. 

514— PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. 

1 can of sliced pineapples. 

2 cupfuls of flour. 
A teacupful of ale. 

A basting spoonful of powdered sugar. 

2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 
Dissolve the powdered sugar in the ale, 

then mix all the ingredients together; let 
the batter stand for three-fourths of an 
hour and it will then be made light by 
the ale; drain a can of pineapples, dip 
each slice in the batter and fry in hot 
lard. Serve with orange, curacoa, or 
maraschino sauce. 

515— SPANISH FRITTERS. 

% pint of water. 

3 ozs. of butter. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 
5 ozs. of flour. 



82 



PRACTlCAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



3 or 4 eggs according to size. 

A teaspoonful of extract of vanilla. 

Boil the water with the butter and 
sugar in it, put in the flour and make a 
fritter paste as directed for fritters in No. 
510, add the vanilla with the last egg; fry 
slowly in lard as it will take a long time 
to cook; drain in a colander, dredge with 
powdered sugar. It may be served with 
rum sauce or whipped cream. 

5J6-SHELL FRITTERS. 

yi pint of water. 

X tb. of flour. 

3 eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

Boil the water with the salt in, add the 
flour all at once and stir to a firm smooth 
paste, cool it just below the boiling point 
and beat in the eggs one at a time with 
the back of the spoon on the side of the 
pan, fry in hot lard; when done strain in 
a colander. Serve with honey, maple 
syrup or any sweet sauce. 

517— PLAIN FRITTERS. 

y-2, pint of water. 

A basting spoonful of melted butter. 

^ lb. of flour. 

A tablespoonful of sugar. 

Boil the water, sugar and butter to- 
gether, then add the flour all at once and 
cook to a stiff paste, take it from the fire 
and add a basting spoonful of flour, one- 
fourth cup of water, three eggs, a tea- 
spoonful of baking powder and flavoring 
of nutmeg or lemon; fry spoonfuls in a 
sauce pan of hot lard and serve with wine 
or transparent sauce. 

518— SALADS. 
The difficulty in salad making lies in 
the preparation of the dressings; there 
are several kinds mentioned in this book, 
all are good, try them and see which you 
like best. Of course the most difficult is 
mayonnaise, but if care is exercised in se- 
curing the finest and freshest material 
and the directions are followed you will 
produce a dressing most delicious and 
wholesome, which is considered hy epi- 
cures as the boss of them all. 



5J9-MAYONNAISE. 

The following quantities will make 
enough mayonnaise for about twenty 
orders. Mayonnaise will keep nicely for 
a week or more if kept in a cold place or 
even on ice. 

3 raw yolks of eggs. 

I pint of olive oil. 

Yz pint of lemon juice or vinegar. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 
A pinch of cayenne. 

% teaspoonfvil of drj' mustard. 

Drop the yolks in an earthen mixing 
bowl, put in the mustard, a pinch of cay- 
enne and a tablespoonful of oil, stir with 
a wire whisk or wooden spoon; when 
mixed up to a smooth paste commence 
adding the oil a few drops at a time ; when 
the oil is half in add the salt and finish by 
adding oil and vinegar alternately by 
spoonfuls. Lemon juice is preferable to 
vinegar, or again it may be used in equal 
parts. The bowl and whisk and all the 
ingredients should be cold. When the 
mayonnaise is read}- it has the appearance 
of yellow whipped cream too thick to run. 
It can be spread over a pile or shape of 
salad with a knife as you would icing 
over a cake. For decorating purposes it 
may be colored green with spinach juice, 
or red with lobster coral. 

520— THIN MAYONNAISE. 
Reduce the thick mayonnaise to the 
consistency^ of cream by adding a little 
more vinegar and whipped cream; it can 
also be reduced with vinegar and water. 
Is used with lobsters, crabs and other 
shell fish, on certain kinds of vegetables; 
mixed with chopped onions and pickle 
makes good Tartare sauce. 

52I-FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. 
3 hard boiled eggs, the j-olks onh' 
needed. 

2 raw yolks. 

% cupful of fresh butter. 

%. cupful of olive oil. 

I cup of Tarragon vinegar. 

I teaspoonful of salt. 

I tablespoonful of prepared mustard. 

White pepper. 

Pound the hard boiled volks smooth in 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



83 



a bowl wi^h the softened butter; add the 
salt, mustard and pepper, then beat in the 
oil gradually, alternating with the vine- 
gar as directed for mayonnaise, set the 
bowl in ice- water; can be reduced with 
lemon juice, cream or vinegar. 

522— GREEN MAYONNAISE FOR OYS- 
TER SALADS OR ORNA- 
MENTATION. 
Pick a handful of green celery tops, 
throw these in boiling water, let them re- 
main three or four minutes; they will 
acquire an inten.se green color, drain 
these, cut them up with a knife and 
pound them through a sieve. Use the 
paste to color and flavor the mayonnaise 
made as directed in No. 519. 

523— SALAD CREAM. 

A cupful of good vinegar; as much of 
water. 

% K). of butter. 

The yolks of a dozen eggs. 

A tablespoonful of prepared mustard. 

Salt and ca3'enne. / 

Boil the vinegar, butter, salt water and 
mustard all together in a bright sauce 
pan; beat the yolks with their volume of 
the boiling liquid and stir them in, let 
come almost to a boil again and take oflf 
immediately from the range; this must 
be cooked to the right point as it will act 
like custard if boiled too much and curdle, 
and again will not have the proper con- 
sistency if not cooked enough. 



524— GERMAN SALAD DRESSING. 

% cupful of very fresh butter. 

% cupful of olive oil . 

yi cup of vinegar. 

I cup of stock. 

I tablespoonful of flour. 

Cream, salt and white pepper. 

Mix the flour and butter together in a 
sauce pan as for making a sauce, pour in 
the oil and then the stock gradually, stir 
until all are thick and smooth, then add 
vinegar, salt and pepper and when partly 
cooled put in the cream ; season and set 
on ice. The knack in making this dress- 
ing is to have the .stock well straiii'^il, 



seasoned and strong enough to set in jelly 
when cold. 



525— FLAVORED VINEGARS. 
The finishing touch imparted to salad3 
and the individuality of tastes for which 
certain hotel chefs are so well known lies 
in the secret of flavoring the vinegar. A 
touch of garlic will produce a marvelous 
change. Terragon, piment, nasturtium 
and other popular and easily compounded 
vinegars will be found in the following 
recipes. Practice with these and you will 
have surprising results. 

526— GARLIC VINEGAR. 

I head of garlic, the Italian preferred. 

yi oz. of bruised red peppers. 

A tablespoonful of walnut catsup. 

I tablespoonful of .salt. 

I pint of vinegar. 

Put all the contents together in a fruit- 
jar or any bottle having a -wdde opening; 
it will have its full flavor in two days. 

527— TARRAGON VINEGAR. 
Tarragon is an aromatic herb which 
can be procured at any market. Use four 
ozs. of green tarragon leaves to everj' 
pint of vinegar, let stand two weeks in a 
glass jar in the cellar, then filter through 
a flannel; do not attempt to rush the fil- 
tering, but let it drip slowly, bottle and 
seal carefully; will be at its best in a 
month. 

.^ 

528— NASTURTIUM VINEGAR. 
Nasturtium is a well known garden 
flower. The seeds are good for pickling. 
When green the seeds may be used as a 
substitute for capers to garnish or deco- 
rate salads. Put clean picked nasturtium 
seeds in fruit jars, put in enough vinegar 
to cover them, seal and let remain at 
least two weeks before using; they will 
keep for an indefinite length of time. 

529— PIMENTO VINEGAR. 
Use two common sized green peppers 
to every quart of vinegar. Good to serve 
with clams on the shell ar.d raw oyster . 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



530-CELERY VINEGAR. 

1 quart of vinegar. 

All the root and white parts of a large 
healthy head of celerj'. 

Mince the celery very fine and put into 
a stone jar; boil the vinegar and pour it 
on top, add a teaspoonful of salt, let it 
stand twenty-four hours, strain and bottle. 

531— CAPER VINEGAR. 
Mix the vinegar from a bottle of French 
capers with a pint of vinegar, bottle it 
and let it stand a few days to blend. 

532— RUBY VINEGAR. 
Boil two good sized dark red beets; do 
not wash them or trim off the end root or 
head in any way that might let the red 
juice escape; when done slice them in a 
quart of vinegar; let stand in a covered 
fruit jar two or three days; strain and 
boil down to two-thirds so that the vine- 
gar will be strong enough to keep; bottle 
and keep ready for use. 

533— FRENCH AROMATIC VINEGAR. 
J4 pint of green tarragon leaves. 

2 ozs. of mustard seeds. 

3 cloves of Italian garlic. 
3 white onions. 

I leaf laurel. 

1 blade of mace. 

2 ozs. elder-blossoms. 
10 cloves. 

1 oz. of whole pepper. 

^ gallon of white wine vinegar. 

Put all the ingredients together in a 
jug, cork tightly and let stand four 
weeks, then strain and bottle ready for 
use. 

534— COLD SLAW. 

2 cups of chopped cabbage. 
I cup of chopped apple. 

I cup of ordinary vinegar, or an aro- 
matic vinegar selected from your assort- 
ment. 

A tablespoonful of white sugar. 

Salt and pepper. 

Capers or nasturtium seeds. 

Chop the apples and cabbage separate- 



ly, then mix altogether, serv-e in a salad 
bowl with capers or nasturtium seeds 
strewed over. 

535— ENDIVE SALAD. 
Sometimes called chicory; is used as 
lettuce for salads, but the white leaves 
only are good. Proceed as directed for 
lettuce salads; an improvement is to rub 
the salad bowl with a clove of garlic. 

.^ 
536— FISH SALAD. 
Any kind of fish of a flaky nature, such 
as salmon, halibut, red snapper, fresh 
cod, pike, etc., can be made into salads 
the same ways as directed for lobsters, an 
chovies, and small sardines; mix a little 
Worcestershire sauce with the dressing, 
garnish with parsley. 

537— CHICKEN SALAD. 

Boil one chicken tender, remove all the 
bones and cut in small dice; add an equal 
amount of celery cut into small pieces, 
then add a cupful of mayonnaise or other 
salad dressing to this and mix thorough- 
ly. Put on a cold platter or salad bowl 
and put in a cool place until serving time. 

When serving, pour a thin layer of 
mayonnaise over the top, garnish edge of 
platter with celery tops, lettuce leaves or 
parsley, a few thin slices of lemon may 
be laid over the top if desired, take a 
hard-boiled egg, cut into quarters length- 
wise and arrange on edge of platter, giv- 
ing this salad a pleasant effect; for more 
elaborate decoration see part 5 of this 
book. 

538— VEAL SALAD. 
Take a piece of cold roast veal, trim 
the dark outside, cut into small dice, add 
an equal amount of chopped celery, to 
this add a little salt, vinegar and pepper, 
and pour in enough of the mayonnaise 
or other salad dressing, to taste. Mix 
thoroughly together, put on a cold dish, 
and garnish same as chicken salad when 
ready to serve. 

539-PORK SALAD. 
Take the lean meat from a cold roast 
of pork, trim, cut into moderately fine 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



85 



pieces; add to this about half the amount 
of celery, chopped up fine, and mix in a 
half cupful of mayonnaise, or other salad 
dressing. Put on a cold platter, with a 
thin layer of dressing over the top, gar- 
nish and serve. 

540— EMERGENCY SALAD. 
Take any cold meat or fowl left over 
from dinner, and chop up the lean meats 
moderately fine, add chopped celery, let- 
tuce or cabbage to half the amount of 
meat, and add a liberal amount of may- 
onnaise or other salad dressing; garnish 
with hard boiled eggs, pickle beets and 
green celery tops. 

54 J— EGG SALAD. 
Boil from six to twelve eggs, according 
to quantity desired, cut in thin slices 
when cold, put into salad bowl upon a 
layer of lettuce, and cover the same with 
a thin layer of mayonnaise or other salad 
dressing. 

542— SHRIMP SALAD. 
To one can or shrimps, take one bunch 
of lettuce, and two stalks of celery, cut up 
fine, add a half cupful of mayonnaise or 
other salad dressing and mix thoroughly 
together; pour a little more dressing over 
the top; garnish edge of platter with 
pickled beets and lettuce leaves; sprinkle 
over with chopped parsley, and serve. 

543— CELERY SALAD. 
Take two bunches of celery, cut up 
lengthwise to size o f a match, or tooth- 
pick, take half a bunch of lettuce chopped 
up fine, season with salt, pepper and 
vinegar; add half cupful of mayonnaise or 
other salad dressing, and mix together. 
Garnish edge of platter with lettuce and 
parsley. 

544 -RED VEGETABLE SALAD. 

To one pint of cold boiled potatoes, 
sliced, and same amount of cold boiled 
beets, sliced, and half-pint each of un- 
cooked red cabbage and celery chopped 



fine, add four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 
two teaspoonfuls of salt, and pepper to 
taste; add a cupful of mayonaise or other 
salad dressing and mix all thoroughly. 
Let stand in a cool place one hour, then 
serve; garnish with beets and sprig of 
parsley. 

545— CAULIFLOWER SALAD. 

Take a well cooked cauliflower when 
cold, and break into small pieces; season 
with a little salt and vinegar; put it in a 
bowl, the edge garnished with lettuce or 
leaves from the cauliflower; then pour 
over a thin laj^er of mayonaise or other 
salad dressing, cut two hard-boiled eggs 
into thin slices, also some pickled beets, 
and arrange over the top alternately. 



546— BEET SALAD. 
Take the blood-red beet and boil 
thoroughly, slice and cut into squares, 
season with salt, and pour over some of 
the mayonnaise or other salad dressing. 
Garnish edge of dish with lettuce. 

547— WATERCRESS SALAD. 

Take two bunches of watercress and 
wash thoroughly in cold water. Cut in 
felice three slices of bacon, fry crisp, mix in 
the cress with a pinch of salt and pepper. 
Add a half cupful of mayonnaise or other 
salad dressing, and ser\'e on a cold dish. 

548— CUCUMBER SALAD. 

Slice cucumbers into thin slices.sprinkle 
with a little salt and pepper, and serve 
with a thin layer of mayonnaise or other 
salad dressing; garnish with sliced toma- 
toes. 

549- APPLE SALAD. 
Peel and core two large apples, cut 
them into small pieces; chop up fine an 
equal amount of celery; mix thoroughly 
do not mix with any dressing, but ser\'e 
covered with a thin layer of mayonnaise or 
other salad dressing; keep on ice until 
ready to serve. 



86 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



550— ORANGE SALAD. 
Separate lengthwise six or more 
oranges, remove the pith and seeds, cut 
each strip into three or four pieces; place 
these in a salad bowl, pour over a thin 
layer of dressing; can be garnished very 
tastily with orange peel cut in shape to 
form a star in the middle, and crescents, 
alternating with cut flowers for the edge. 

55 J— SHREDDED CABBAGE. WITH 
MAYONNAISE. 

Take a head of cabbage, shred it up 
fine, mix with a little salt, pepper and 
vinegar, and pour over a half cupful of 
mayonnaise or other salad dressing, gar- 
nish edge of dish with lettuce. 

552-LETTUCE SALAD. 

Get nice young lettuce, thoroughly 
wash, and put into ice-cold water to crisp 
it, cut the leaves into small pieces and 
put into a deep glass dish or bowl, mix in 
a suflScient quantity of maj'onnaise or other 
salad dressing, no other seasoning; gar- 
nish with sliced hard boiled eggs, sliced 
pickled beets, or small red radishes cut 
in halves or slices. 

<^ 

553— TOMATOES WITH MAYON- 
NAISE. 
Sliced tomatoes served with the mayon- 
naise or other salad dressing are complete. 
No other seasoning is required, as the 
mayonnaise meets ail requirements for this 
delectable vegetable. 

554— TOMATO SALAD. 
Take the skin, juice and seeds from 
nice fresh tomatoes, chop what remains 
with celery, and pour over the whole the 
mayonnaise or other salad dressing, noth- 
ing else. Serve a tablespoonful on a small 
leaf of lettuce. 



555-POTATO SALAD. 

Take six cold boiled potatoes and slice 
very thin, take two onions chopped up 
very fine, season with salt, pepper and 
vinegar, to the taste, add half a cupful of 



cream and a similar amount of mayonnaise 
or salad dressing, and mix thoroughly; 
garnish edge of platter with sliced cold 
boiled eggs, sprinkle top over with 
chopped parsley and serve. 

556— SWEET POTATO SALAD. 

Take four boiled sweet potatoes, when 
cold peel and cut into small dice, mix in 
four stalks of celery, cut the same way, 
season with a little vinegar, salt and pep- 
per, and add c ver the top a quarter cupful 
of mayonnaise or other salad dressing. 

557— CABBAGE AND CELERY 
SALAD. 

Take half a head of cabbage and one 
bunch of celery, either chop up fine or 
shred both up to the size of a toothpick, 
mix together with a little salt, pepper and 
vinegar, and half a cupful of mayonnaise 
or other salad dressing; lay on a bed of 
crisp lettuce, and garnish edge of dish 
with pickled beets, pitted olives, minced 
pickles or sliced boiled eggs. 



558— FROG LEG SALAD. 
Boil two or three dozen frog legs slowly 
in water, with a pinch of salt, until quite 
tender, drain and cover with cold milk 
for fifteen minutes; when cold remove all 
bones, shred an eqiial amount of celery, 
and mix; spread on a cold platter with a 
thin layer of the mayonnaise or other 
salad dressing over the top; garnish with 
thin slices of lemon, pitted olives and 
small radishes. 

559— SALMON SALAD. 
Take one pound of fresh cooked sal- 
mon, or one can, remove all bones and 
chop same up in small pieces; add two 
bunches of celery cut in a like manner, 
add a tablespoonful of vinegar, a half 
teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, 
then add a half cupful of mayonnaise or 
other salad dressing, and mix all up well. 
Take a bunch of lettuce and trim edge of 
platter with the large leaves, heap the 
salmon on them lightly in the center of 
the dish, and cover with a thin layer o^ 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



87 



mayonnaise, and, if desired, thin slices 
of lemon or pickled beets may be used 
for the edge, sprinkle with minced pars- 
ley and serve. 

560— SARDINE SALAD. 
Take two pounds of any kind of fish, 
boiled, cool and remove all bones, mix in 
a half cupful of mayonnaise or other 
salad dressing, and lay on a bed of crisp 
lettuce; split six sardines, and if there are 
any bones, remove them, arrange the 
sardines over the top, having the ends 
meet in the center of the dish. At the 
base of the dish make a wreath of thin 
slices of lemon, parsley or lettuce. 

561— ANCHOVY SALAD. 
Use about a dozen of salted anchovies, 
and soak them in water for an hour, cut 
them into small pieces or strips, add a 
few stalks of celery cut fine, and a table- 
spoonful of vinegar. Place in a bowl 
with lettuce leaves as a base, pour on a 
small amount of mayonnaise or other 
salad dressing, and cut three or four 
hard-boiled eggs ia slices and place over 
the top. 

562— CODFISH SALAD. 
Soak three or four pieces of codfish over 
night, then boil for foriy minutes, cool, 
drain, and cut or shred in small pieces, 
add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a little 
salt and pepper, add three boiled potatoes 
and an onion chopped moderately fine; 
and serve with a thin layer of mayonnaise 
or other salad dressing over the top. 

563— CRAB SALAD. 
Take about a dozen hard shell crabs 
boiled as directed in No. 182, when cold 
remove all the meat carefully from the 
body as well as the claws, mince an equal 
amount of celery, mix with a half cupful 
of mayonnaise or other salad dressing, 
garnish with lettuce and cover with a 
thin layer of the dressing. 

564— SCALLOP SALAD. 
Take two dozen scallops and soak them 
in salted water for an hour, rinse them in 



cold water, then boil for twenty minutes 
and drain; when cold, cut them into 
small slices and mix in a bunch of celery 
chopped up fine, pour a half cupful of 
mayonnaise or other salad dressing over 
the top, garnish with thin slices of lemon 
and beets. 

565— RUSSIAN SALAD. 
A cupful of cold boiled or roast beef 
well done, five or six slices of bacon cut 
in dice and fried crisp, two small bunches 
of lettuce, shredded; cut the beef like the 
bacon, add a half can of French peas, a 
little vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, 
mix in a cupful of mayonnaise or other 
salad dressing. Spread on platter, cover 
with a thin layer of mayonnaise; garnish 
the edge with pickles chopped fine, and 
watercress. 

566— SWEETBREAD SALAE. 
Boil the sweetbreads in salted water 
for twenty minutes, then cut into small 
pieces, mix in a bunch of shredded lettuce 
and a couple of stalks of celery cut fine; 
then add a sufficient quantity of mayon- 
naise or other salad dressing to taste ; gar- 
nish mth slices of sweatbread and lemon. 

567— OYSTER SALAD. 
Bring to a boil about four dozen small 
oysters, in their own liquor, skim and 
strain; season with a little salt, pepper 
and vinegar; when cold, add about half 
the quantity of chopped celery, and a cup- 
ful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing; 
garnish the dish with the celery leaves, 
and thin slices of lemon sprinkled with 
parsley over the top. 

568— LOBSTER SALAD. 
Obtain a fresh boiled lobster, canned 
lobsters may be used, or boil a green lob- 
ster as directed elsewhere in this book; 
after cooling pick the meat from the 
shells and claws, cut the meat up in 
small pieces, and chop up fine two stalks 
of celery, add a small quantity of vine- 
gar, salt and pepper, mix a little, then 
add a half cupful of the mayonnaise or 



38 



TRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



other salad dressing and mix thoroughly. 
Spread the salad on a cold platter, cover 
the top with a thin layer of mayonnaise; 
garnish with lettuce, celery tops or pars- 
ley and the clean red claws, or boiled 
eggs and watercress. 

569— HAM SALAD. 

I cupful of cold boiled potatoes cut in 
small dice. 

I cupful of chopped celery. 

I cupful of lean boiled ham minced 
fine. 

yz teaspoonful of celery salt. 

% cupful of mayonnaise or other dress- 
ing. 

Mix all together with the mayonnaise, 
reserving a little to spread on top. 

570— TURKEY SALAD. 
Use the remnants of a roast turkey, 
pick all the dark and white meat that is 
left carefully, and proceed as directed for 
chicken salad. 

571— HAMBURGH SALAD. 

1 pint of mixed smoked halibut, dried 
beef and corned tongue cut in small dice. 

2 large potatoes cut the same way. 
I cupful of celery. 

1 small onion minced. 

2 cloves of garlic finelj' minced. 

2 pickled red peppers. 

3 hard-boiled eggs. 

Cook the dried beef and tongue two 
hours, parboil the celery ten minutes, mix 
all together except the eggs; make a 
dressing of 

% cup of oil. 

% cup of vinegar. 

I tablespoonful of prepared mustard. 

yi, teaspoonful of white pepper. 

I teaspoonful of salt. 

Put these in a bowl and mix thorough- 
ly, then pour over the salad, garnish with 
the sliced eggs and tinj' leaves of lettuce 
or chicon,'. 

572— OYSTER PLANT SALAD. 

Clean the oyster plants and set them in 



salted ice-water, let them remain for an 
hour, and put them on to boil without 
changing the water; try with a fork and 
when they are done drain off the hot wa- 
ter and throw the oyster-plants in cold 
water so that they will retain their good 
color; slice of even thickness; put them 
in a salad bowl and pour over mayonnaise 
thinned with a little Chili vinegar; deco- 
rate with a border of watercress and slices 
of the oyster plant. 



^ 



573— STUFFED TOMATOES. 

10 medium sized tomatoes, not too ripe, 
and smooth. 

2 cupfuls of fine bread crumbs. 

2 tablespoonfuls of minced onions. 

A basting spoonful of minced fat salt 
pork. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

White pepper. 

Cut a slice off the top of each tomato 
and scoop out with a spoon into a strain- 
er; all the inside except enough of the 
shell to make a case should be turned 
out; mix the pulp with the other ingre- 
dients and fill the tomatoes, place them 
close in a buttered pan, dredge cracker 
meal on top, brush over with a little but- 
ter and bake thirty minutes. 



^ 



574-MACARONI AND CHEESE. 

A pound package of macaroni. 
yi pint of minced parmesan or domes- 
tic cheese. 

3 basting spoonfuls of butter. 

2 tablespoonfuls of flour. 

3 eggs. 
Cracker meal. 

Break the macaroni and throw into a 
saucepan of boiling water, and when it 
has boiled twent}' minutes pour into a 
colander to drain, put it into a two-quart 
earthen baking dish, mix the cheese and 
butter with it; mix the flour smooth with 
a little of the milk, when this is done 
add the rest of the milk gradually, then 
tlie beaten eggs and salt, pour this on the 
macaroni, sift cracker meal on top and 
bake brown. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



89 



GARNISHING. 
Suggestions for garnishing salads and 
other cold dishes will be found in part 
V of this book. 

575— MACARONI, A LA FRANCAISE. 

A pound package of macaroni. 
A cupful of parmesan or domestic 
cheese. 

3 basting spoonfuls of butter. 
I quart of milk. 

Flour thickening. 

4 eggs. 

I pint of cream sauce. 

Salt and parsley. 

Throw the macaroni in a saucepan of 
boiling water, cook twenty minutes, 
drain, then put in an earthen baking dish 
holding three quarts; cut the cheese in 
small dice and mix it with the macaroni 
and butter; mix the eggs, milk and a 
basting spoonful of flour thickening to- 
gether and pour over the macaroni and 
set in the oven to bake; while this is 
baking make a pint of cream sauce, add 
to it a basting spoonful of chopped pars- 
ley, pour this over the macaroni and bake 
light brown on top; ^end to the table in 
the dish it has baked in. 

756— MACARONI, A L'lTALlENNE. 

I pound of macaroni. 

I cupful of grated cheese. 

I pint of thick stewed tomatoes. 

A pint of brown gra\'y. 

Boil the macaroni in the usual way, 
drain and put in an earthen baking dish 
with the cheese, tomatoes and gravy, mix 
up and let it simmer half an hour in a 
slack oven. Ser\'e in individual dishes. 

577— SPAGHETTI AND CREAM. 

Spaghetti is made like macaroni with 
the difference that they are solid while 
the macaroni is hollow. Break up the 
spaghetti and cook it as you would maca- 
roni; drain it and put in enough cream 
sauce to just come up level to it; sprinkle 
with grated cheese and minced parsley. 

578— RABBITS, A L'ETOUFFE. 

Four rabbits cleaned and cut as directed 
in No. 264. Cut each rabbit in six por- 



tions, boil them in a kettle of seasoned 
stock; when done put the pieces in a bak- 
ing pan with a half cup of butter, a cup 
of light cream, salt and pepper, and dust 
over with flour, brown quickly in a hot 
oven; when slightly colored put a quart 
of the stock in the pan, thicken slightly, 
and serve. 

579— RABBIT A LA SOUBISE. 

Cut rabbits as directed in the above rec- 
ipe, steep them in cold water over night, 
boil until tender in just enough stock to 
cover them, season highly with salt and 
pepper and scraps of bacon; take the 
pieces out and keep them warm while you 
make a sauce with five large onions boiled 
until tender enough to mash, rub them 
through a coarse strainer, add more salt 
and a cup of milk to this puree, thicken 
with flour and let come to a boil. Serve 
with a piece of rabbit coated with the 
onion cream. 

580-SPARE RIB, COUNTRY STYLE. 
Divide spare-ribs in portions of conve- 
nient size by sawing, as it leaves no 
splinters, place these in a baking pan, 
sprinkle with salt, pepper and powdered 
sage, bake in a quick oven; serve with a 
sauce made as follows: Fry a minced 
onion in butter until a light color, put in 
a ladle full of brown sauce diluted with 
half stock, season quite strongl}' with 
pepper, let simmer a few minutes and add 
a basting spoonful of vinegar, let it boil 
again and skim off the superfluous fat; 
when ready to serve mix in a spoonful 
of prepared mustard. 



581 -SUPREME .OF SWEETBREADS. 

Supreme of any kind takes its name 
from a rich sauce called supreme that is 
poured over the pieces of meat. The 
pieces naturally enough should be built 
up in some regular form. When a large 
dish is served for a party, it can be gar- 
nished with green peas, asparagus heads, 
black truffles, cepes, mushrooms, etc. 
Supreme is the richest white sauce that 
can be made; it is cream colored, 
smooth and soft like butter; should be 



9° 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



made of clear chicken broth boiled with 
fresh mushrooms and thickened with 
fresh white butter and flour; strain and 
add one-third of its volume of rich cream, 
it should be just thick enough to stick to 
the meat and coat them without being a 
paste. Parboil large sweetbreads, put them 
between two pans until cold, lard with fat 
bacon using the smallest needle, split in 
halves, trim, simmer in butter, a few 
spoonfuls of broth, and a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice; they will be done in about 20 
minutes ; place a foundation of boiled rice 
in each individual dish, a sweetbread on 
this and sauce poured over; garnish with 
black truffle cut in slices or green peas; 
warm these in clarified butter and place 
carefully upon the white sauce. 

582— TERRAPIN, MARYLAND 
STYLE. 

Two seven or eight pound terrapins, 
boiled as directed elsewhere, cut the meat 
in small pieces the size of lima beans; 
keep the eggs and fat separately, boil 
down the liquor the terrapins were boiled 
in, thicken it with flour and butter, 
stirred until it bubbles, adding the liquor 
gradually, add a small teacupful of Ma- 
deira; take twelve paper cases, brush 
them inside with olive oil, line the bot- 
tom of the cases with cracker crumbs 
moistened with melted butter, place them 
in a hot oven one minute, take them out, 
partly fill them with the terrapin meat, 
eggs and fat on top, and fill up with the 
thick sauce, ten minutes before serving 
place the cases in the oven on a sheet of 
manila paper; serve hot. 

583-VEAL POT PIE. 
2 lbs. of veal; neck, shank or flank. 
I small onion. 

1 cup of milk. 

2 slices of salt pork. 
Flour thickening. 
Salt and pepper. 
Dumpling dough. 

Stew the meat an hour in water, just 
enough to cover it, season, add the milk 
and thickening, pour this stew in a bak- 
ing pan, and mix up two cupfuls of flour, 
a heaping spoonful of baking powder 



with a cupful of milk or water, and one- 
half a teaspoonful of salt; the dough 
should be too soft to handle; stir it well 
together and drop portions all over the 
stew; bake fifteen to twenty minutes. 



.^ 



584— POTTING. 
Potting seems to be one of the most 
ancient practices of preserving meat in 
the form of paste in small jars made tight 
by a covering of melted butter. Potted 
meats are served both hot and cold, for 
example, potted pigeons No. 491 should 
be served hot, while ham and chicken are 
good cold for sandwiches, etc. Tough, 
wirey game, fowl, or pieces of meat can 
be made tender by setting it in a jar in 
the oven with stock and seasonings and 
sealed with a flour and water paste and 
baked three or four hours according to 
the contents of the jar. 



^ 



585— MINCED QUAILS. 

For twelve orders take : 

6 quails. 

% cup of rice. 

3 pints of broth. 

A bunch of soup vegetables. 

}i cup of butter. 

% cup of flour. 

Seasoning. 

Cook the rice in the usual way. Take 
off the breasts of the quails raw with a 
boning knife, split them, season with 
salt and simmer in a covered jar with a 
spoonful of melted butter; when done on 
both sides without browning take them 
out, put them in a dish and set till cold 
with a plate on top; break up the bones 
and legs, boil them in the broth with the 
vegetables; when all the richness is ex- 
tracted strain the liquor, thicken with 
the flour stirred up with the butter as 
for a cream sauce, add a little pepper 
and skim off any fat that may rise. Cut 
the breasts of the quails in small dice, 
mix them in the hot sauce just before 
serving. Make a border of small cones 
with the cooked rice dished with a small 
spoon dipped in butter; place a sprig of 
parsley between the cones. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



91 



586— LAMB'S HEART, A L'ECOS- 
SAKE. 

Cut the lamb's heart in slices about 
half an inch thick, fry them in a little 
butter, dredge witti salt and pepper while 
they are frying; make forcemeat balls as 
directed in No. 589; roll them in flour 
and bake in the oven in a buttered pan 
until they have acquired a nice brown 
color. Serve a slice of the heart with a 
spoonful of brown gravy, with two or 
three forcemeat balls and pitted olives 
all around. 



587— LAMB'S TONGUE, WITH 
BRUSSEL SPROUTS. 

Take the tongues out of the pickle, 
wash them and boil two and a half hours; 
when cold trim off all the outside and 
split them lengthwise; throw the halves 
in a baking pan where meats have been 
roasting and let them bake until they are 
slightly glazed. Cook the brussel sprouts 
as directed elsewhere; when done drain 
them, add salt, pepper and melted butter, 
and chop them fine; serve a spoonful in a 
dish with two halves of tongue neatly ar- 
ranged in the middle. 

588— STEWED MUSHROOMS ON 
TOAST. 

Drain a can of button mushrooms, 
warm them in a pan with a basting spoon- 
ful of butter; when hot throw in a tea- 
spoonful of minced parsley and two bast- 
ing spoonfuls of Bordelaise sauce if 
handy, otherwise use brown gravy; sen^e 
on buttered toast cut in fancy shapes. 

589— STUFFED SADDLE OF 
MUTTON. 

Bone a loin of mutton; make a highly 
seasoned forcemeat; press this in all the 
cavities made by taking out the ribs and 
other bones, roll up, tie with twine to 
keep in shape and bake until tender. 

The forcemeat may be made as follows: 

I cupful of minced turkey or chicken. 

A cupful of raw veal. 

A thick slice of boiled ham. 

A basting spoonful of minced onion. 

Pepper and salt. 



yi teaspoonful of sage. 
Serve a slice of the stuffed loin with a 
spoonful of gravy made in the pan. 

590— PARSNIP FRITTERS. 

Boil parsnips until tender, drain and 
mash them; for one cupful of dry mashed 
parsnip use a tablespoonful of melted 
butter, a tablespoonful of flour, one egg, 
salt and pepper. Stir these all together; 
drop small portions in hot lard from the 
end of a spoon ; may be served with cream 
sauce or as an accompaniment to venison 
or other game. 

591 -SALMON PATTIES. 

I can of salmon. 

A cup of rich cream sauce. 

10 patty cases. 

Pick the salmon free from all bones and 
skin, mix it with the cream sauce and fill 
the cases, made as directed for oyster 
patties. 

592— PEACHES WITH RICE. 

I pint of cooked rice. 

yi dozen of peaches. 

y^ cupful of currant jelly. 

Boil and cut the peaches in halves, sim- 
mer them in thick syrup, when they are 
done keep ready to serve. Cook the rice 
as directed elsewhere in this book, using 
a tablespoonful of sugar instead of salt. 
Take out the peaches, lay them on a sepa- 
rate dish, and mix the currant jelly with 
the peach syrup for the sauce. Serve a 
spoonful of rice with two halves of peaches 
and the sauce poured over. 

593 -VEAL AND OYSTER PIE. 

I pint of oysters. 

I pint of milk. 

I pound of lean veal cut in small pieces. 

A cupful of potato boulettes. 

Minced parsley. 

Short paste. 

Cut the cooked veal in pieces of even 
size, steep it in warm broth a few minutes 
before it is wanted, if not very tender boil 
in the broth until it is tender; put the oys- 
ters in a small colander, dip that in the 
kettle containing the boiling broth and 



92 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



veal, when they are scalded raise the 
colander so as to drain all the liquor back 
in the kettle; season and thicken the con- 
tents of the kettle, put in the oysters then 
the potato boulettes, sprinkle the parsley 
on top and cover with short paste made 
as directed in recipe No. 305. 

594— FISH AU GRATIN. 

Take the remnants of boiled or baked 
fish of a flaky nature, such as haddock, 
halibut, salmon, cod, etc., pick the meat 
from the bones in flakes, then proceed 
exactly as for macaroni and cheese. 

595— EPIGRAM OF LAMB, WITH 
TOMATO SAUCE. 

Chop the brisket of lamb across the 
bones to make portions about three inches 
square; cook the pieces in seasoned broth 
until tender, take out and press them be- 
tween two pans; when cold dredge with 
salt and pepper; double bread them in 
the usual waj' and fry in hissing hot lard. 
Serve with tomato or green peas. 

596- DEVILED HAM. 

Yz dozen slices of ham. 

A piece of butter the size of a lemon. 

A teaspoonful of dry mustard. 

Yz teaspoonful of black pepper. 

I green gherkin minced. 

Yz cupful of vinegar and water mixed. 

Broil or fry the ham, mix all the other 
articles in the pan and drop in the hot 
slices of ham, let come to a boil; serve a 
slice of the ham with a spoonful of the 
sauce. 

597— FARINA CAKES WITH JAM. 

1 pint of milk. 
4 ozs. of farina. 

A small half cup of sugar. 

A tablespoonful of melted butter. 

2 eggs. 

Boil the milk with half of the sugar in 
it, stir in the farina, let it cook \&xy 
slowly for twenty minutes then mix in 
the butter and eggs, pour it in a flat 
earthen dish, it must be about an inch 
thick, bake this about ten minutes, taVe 



it out of the oven and dredge the remain- 
ing sugar over, bake it again to glaze; 
serve with strawberry jam or jelly. 

598— FRENCH PANCAKES AU 
CONFITURES. 

Yt. lb. of flour. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

7 eggs. 

A cupful of milk. 

A tablespoonful of melted butter. 

A cupful of whipped cream. 

A basting spoonful of brandy. 

Mix the yolks of eggs with the milk, 
put in the sugar, melted butter, brandy 
and a pinch of salt, add all the flour and 
stir it up smooth, whip the cream and 
mix it with the batter; next put in the 
whites whipped to a stiff froth ; bake thin 
cakes on a griddle or in a small egg pan; 
when done spread with strawberry jam, 
or jelly, and roll up; sprinkle powdered 
sugar on top and serve. 

,^ 

599— FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. 

Yi 11). of veal, boned and minced. 

Yz tt). of cooked veal cut the same way. 

I onion. 

Yz cupful of minced ham. 

Yz teaspoonful of pepper. 

I teaspoonful of salt. 

The meat, both raw and cooked, must 
be about a quarter fat. Fry the onion 
minced fine in a spoonful of butter and 
when they begin to brown mix in the 
meat, when done press the meat in a deep 
narrow shaped pan, smooth it, lay some 
strips of bacon over the top and bake in 
a slow oven for about three-quarters of an 
hour; turn out on a platter and serve 
slices with brown gravy to which you 
mav add mushrooms or sliced truffles. 



600— LAMB FRIES. 
Wash them and boil ten minutes in 
salted water and a basting spoonful of 
vinegar, let them get cold and split in 
two, sprinkle plentifully with pepper and 
salt, and flour them on both sides, fry 
them brown in butter. Serve with to- 
mato sauce, or a border of green peas. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



93 



601— MINCED KIDNEYS. 

1 large beef kidney. 

2 slices of fried ham. 
I hard boiled egg. 

Mince the ham very fine and cut the 
kidneys in pieces no larger than lima 
beans; fry them with a spoonful of melted 
butter in the pan, when partly cooked 
add the minced ham, pepper and salt to 
taste, let them cook very slowly three or 
four minutes; serve on buttered toast with 
chopped eggs sprinkled over. 

602— FILLET OF VEAL, LARDED. 

Twelve portions of select veal steak cut 
from the leg about the size of the middle 
slice of an ordinary turnip cut an inch 
thick; lard these by drawing through 
strips of salt pork in such a manner that 
they will cluster in the middle of the 
veal and protrude a little at each end, 
season with a finely minced onion, salt 
and pepper; put them close together in 
the pan, bake in a quick oven till light 
brown ; baste them twice while they are 
cooking. Serve with a truffle sauce, 
mushrooms fried in butter or green 
peas. 

603— APRICOT, A LA REGENCE. 

Take halves of apricots, against a like 
amount of rice croquette mixture, make 
these in the form of a ball giving it a 
double breading and fry in the usual man- 
ner it! a kettle of hot lard; when done 
roll them in granulated sugar, and serve 
with a sauce made of the apricot syrup to 
each pint of which use one-half cup of 
sugar, a piece of butter the size of an egg 
and thicken with cornstarch. 



604— TIPS OF ASPARAGUS ON 
TOAST. 

Trim off the ends of the stems of as- 
paragus, let them lie in cold water for an 
hour, throw them in boiling water to 
which you have added a teaspoonful of 
salt and a pinch of bicarbonate of soda, 
boil moderately until the ends are tender, 
drain them carefully without breaking 
off the tips, cut these off and serve on 



buttered toast with a spoonful of melted 
butter poured over. 

605— BANANA FRITTERS. 

Make fritter batter as described in No. 
507 for apple fritters, cut the bananas in 
two, moisten them with a little syrup 
made of a tablespoonful of rum and all 
the sugar it will dissolve, dip each piece 
in the batter and fry them in hot lard. 
Serve with powdered sugar or rum sauce. 



^ 



606— PORK CHOPS WITH FRIED 
APPLES. 

Fry or broil the pork chops, keep them 
hot while you get ready the apples sliced 
in two across the core without paring or 
coring, dip the apples in flour and lay 
them in a large frying pan in which there 
is a little hot drippings from the pork 
roast pan; fry one side brown, then turn 
over with an egg lifter and brown the 
other side; serve two pieces to each pork 
chop. 

607-POTTED BEEF STEAK. 

A slice of rump steak cut in pieces suit- 
able for portions, put these into a gallon 
jar with 

A teaspoonful of aromatic salt No. i. 

A small slice of bacon to each portion. 

A teaspoonful of vinegar. 

A pint of broth. 

Put over the jar a buttered paper and a 
cover, bake in a slow oven two and 
a half hours, then take the meat out, 
strain and skim the gravy; add a table- 
spoonful of mushroom catsup to the 
gravy, and serve. 

Jt 

608-COMPOTE OF BANANAS. 
Make a sweet pudding sauce; cut the 
bananas in halves lengthwise then once 
across, put them in the hot sauce and 
keep them to the boiling point just a few 
minutes, they must not boil as they will 
get too soft. Serve two pieces of banana 
with the syrup on a spoonful of boiled 
rice. 



94 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



609— ETOUFFE DE BOEUF, AU 
LEGUMES. 

3 lbs. of solid lean beef. 

2 carrots. 

2 parsnips. 

lo potatoes. 

A can of F'rench peas. 

Lard the beef with the salt pork as di- 
rected for Beef a la Mode, and boil with 
just enough stock to cover it, add the 
vegetables cut in quarters as evenly as 
possible; take out the vegetables as they 
are done, and when the meat has boiled 
tender let the liquor boil down to a glaze. 
Serve a slice of the beef with a slice of 
carrot, one of turnip, a potato, and a 
spoonful of the green peas wanned in 
butter. 

6 JO— BAKED RIBS OF VEAL, WITH 
POTATOES. 

Three pounds of veal, the ribs preferred, 
cook in the usual way; steam some pota- 
toes, new ones preferred, when they are 
almost done put them in the oven with 
the roast to brown; dish two or three 
with each order of veal. 

611— OX TONGUE HOLLANDAISE. 

Secure a nice, large, red, corned tongue, 
lard it lengthwi.se with strips of clear fat 
bacon or salt pork; put it in a covered jar 
with a quart of stock and a bunch of soup 
vegetables; bake in the oven three hours; 
serve two thin slices of the tongue cut 
lengthwise on a bed of beet greens or 
spinach; garnish the dish with quarters of 
hard boiled eggs. 

6I2-CREPINETTES. 
One pound of cooked meat of any kind 
left over from previous meals, one-half 
pound of fat raw i:it-;it, cut these with a 
sausage cutter, and season with a tea- 
spoonful of aromatic salt No. 2; make in- 
to little pats as for pork sausage and 
brown on both sides in a frying pan ; serve 
immediately with a spoonful of brown 
gravy or Bordelaise sauce; garnish with 
cress. 



^ 



613 



DEVILED HAM, WITH SWEET 
POTATOES. 

Prepare ham as directed in No. 596; 



serve with a spoonful of mashed sweet 
potatoes; season with butter, cream, salt 
and pepper. 

6H— MINCED VEAL WITH 
POACHED EGGS. 

Take the remains of a cold roast of veal, 
cut in very small dice, warm in a pan 
with a spoonful of melted butter and add 
a cup of brown gravy to every pint of the 
cooked meat; season with sage, salt and 
pepper; serve a spoonful on a shape of 
buttered toast with a hard poached egg 
on top. 

6J5— BAKED PORK AND BEANS. 

Pick over one pint of pea-beans, wash 
and let them remain in cold water over 
night, put them in a kettle with just 
enough fresh water to cover them, add a 
pinch of baking soda, boil for an hour; 
pour all the contents of the kettle into a 
strainer; when the beans are drained put 
them in a saucepan with enough cold 
water to come itp level, boil a few min- 
utes; season with salt, a pinch of mustard, 
white pepper and a basting spoonful of 
molasses; put them in a tin pan, cover 
with slices of salt pork and bake half an 
hour. 
I ^ 

616— BOSTON BAKED BEANS. 

As cold beans are very palatable we 
give the following recipe large enough 
to have some left to serve when cold. 

I quart of pea or navy beans. 

^ lb. of salt pork. 

Yz teacupful of molasses. 

Yz teaspoonful each of white pepper 
and mustard. 

Soak over night in cold water, in the 
morning put the beans in a one-gallon 
stone jar, for which there must be a cover, 
put in the molasses, salt pork, mustard 
and pepper and put in enough water so 
it will come up two inches above the 
beans; put the cover on the jar and set it 
in the oven where it should remain ten 
hours; when done they are not crisp 
brown on top, just done with a little 
water in the bottom; the heat of the oven 
must be steadv and moderate. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



95 



6I7-CHIPPED BEEF AND CREAM. 

One-half pound of chipped beef ; 
boil in water five minutes; make a pint 
of cream sauce, when ready beat in a 
piece of butter the size of a lemon; drain 
the water from the beef and pour the 
cream sauce over it; serve with baked 
potatoes that have been split open on top 
and a piece of butter inserted. 

618— BOEUF, AU PETIT POIS. 

Take a poimd of small bits of beef 
trimmed off from the end of the porter- 
house steak, tenderloin or any other part, 
cut all of one size, put in a saucepan with 
a basting spoonful of melted butter, a 
chopped onion and a little aromatic salt 
No. i; fry a few minutes, stirring fre- 
quently; when it is lightly colored add 
enough stock or water to barely cover the 
meat, put in two cups of green peas and 
stew until the meat is tender. If canned 
peas are used do not put them in until 
the meat is cooked. May be served plain 
or on toast cut in fancy shapes; garnish 
with parsley and chopped hard-boiled 
eggs sprinkled over. 

619— BREAST OF LAMB, STEWED 

WITH DUMPLINGS. 
Two pounds of breast of lamb chopped 
into pieces about two inches square, stew 
these with a cupful of cut mixed vegeta- 
bles, season with a teaspoonful of aro- 
matic salt No. I ; when the meat is tender 
take it out and strain the liquor, thicken 
lightly with flour; add three yolks of eggs 
last; put the meat back and keep warm 
until ready to serve. Make the dump- 
lings with baking powder biscuit dough, 
cut in small square pieces and cook in a 
steamer, make them small enough so you 
can serve two dumplings with each order; 
sprinkle with parsley dust when ready to 



620— SCALLOPED VEAL. 

One pound of thin slices of veal steak, 
cut as thin as possible and not larger than 
a slice of medium sized turnip; dredge 
these with aromatic salt No. i, give 
them a single breading, lay them in a 



buttered pan and moisten with fresh 
melted butter; brown them crisp in the 
oven and of a nice color. Serve with a 
spoonful of tomato sauce or any other 
suitable to taste. When properly baked 
they will curl up like chipped potatoes. 



621— VEAL, EN DEMI-GLACE. 

Take a three-pound piece of veal, either 
the shoulder or thick flank, or still better 
a piece of the leg, lard it with strips of 
salt pork, use a medium sized needle. 
Put a half dozen slices of pork in a bak- 
ing pan with 

A bunch of soup vegetables. 

A sprig of parsley. 

I teaspoonful of aromatic salt No. 2. 

I pint of broth or water. 

% cup of wine. 

Put the larded veal on top, cover with 
a buttered paper, baste every fifteen min- 
utes until tender, take out the meat and 
strain the gravy, let this boil down to 
a glaz". Serve a slice of the veal with 
a spoonful of the gravy, and pitted olives 
for garnish. 



622— WELSH RAREBIT. 

I ft), of cheese. 

X ft>. of butter. 

I glass of ale. Bass's preferred. 

ID slices of toast. 

Salt, cayenne. 

Cut the cheese in small pieces and put 
it with the butter in a small saucepan, 
work them together with a spoon until 
the cheese is melted and hot — it must 
not come to a boil — keep it from getting 
too hot by putting in the ale in .small 
portions; season with the salt and cay- 
enne; place a spoonful on thin slices of 
toast and set it on the top shelf in the 
oven for two or three minutes; moisten 
the edge of the toast with ale and serve 
immediately. Milk can be used instead 
of ale, but the dish will not be as highly 
flavored. 

A good imitation of rarebit is to butter 
slices of toast, cover them with thin slices 
of cheese and bake in the oven until the 
cheese is melted. 



96 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



623— POTATO SHELLS. 

Make the croquette preparation as in 
No. 657, adding two yolks of eggs, turn 
it on a floured pastry board, make a long 
roll of it, cut off in slices common 
biscuit size; give them a double breading, 
mark a lid in each one as you would for 
tarts, fry in hot lard until they obtain a 
light color, they must not stay in very 
long as they would burst out of shape; 
when done lift out the lid with a small 
spoon and scrape out the inside, thus 
making crisp shells of potatoes ready to 
be filled with any kind of patty prepara- 
tion. Can also be made in boats, dia- 
monds or oval shapes. 

624— RICE SHELLS. 
Made as directed for potato shells No. 
623, using dry boiled rice mashed and 
mixed with a yolk of egg instead of po- 
tatoes. 

625— CROAKER IN BATTER. 
Split the fish lengthwise, remove the 
bone, dredge with salt and white pepper, 
dip in thin batter made as directed for 
frying batter, fi-y in lard. Serve with a 
suitable sauce and potato boulettes. 

626— BRAINS, A LA VINAIGRETTE. 

Boil the brains in water seasoned with 
the juice of a lemon, a table spoonful of 
vinegar, a little salt and an onion, boil 
gently for half an hour, take them out, 
remove the skin and discolored portions, 
strain the liquor in which they have been 
boiled through a cloth, put them back 
in the pan with the strained liquor and 
simmer half an hour longer. Serve with 
a cold dressing made of two parts of vin- 
egar and one of olive oi) seasoned with 
salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of pre- 
pared mustard to every cupful of the mix- 
ture. Serve one lobe of the brain with a 
spoonful of the dressing sprinkled with 
finely chopped green pickle. 



627— CALF'S LIVER, EN CROUS- 
TADES. 

Make potato shells as directed in No. 



623 and fill them with a preparation made 
of: 

yi lb. of calf's liver. 

As much of onions. 

yi. pint of brown gravy. 

A tablespoonful of wine (optional). 

Mince the liver and onions extremely 
fine, fry them together with a little but- 
ter; when done to a nice brown color add 
the wine and brown gravy; let it simmer 
until quite thick, season and fill the patty 
shells. Garnish with quarters of eggs 
and parsley. 

628— MACARONI A LA GENOISE. 

Boil the macaroni in the usual way; 
serve in a dish with Espagnole poured 
over and grated cheese on top. Brown 
gravy may be used if preferred. 



629— MACARONI WITH NEUF- 
CHATEL. 

yi pound of macaroni. 

A five cent package of Neufchatel 
cheese. 

Piece of biitter the size of a lemon. 

2 cups of milk or sweet cream. 

Boil the macaroni in water in the usual 
way; warm the butter and cheese in a 
saucepan; have the milk or cream hot 
and add this a little at a time, finish with 
a dust of cayenne. Do not let the mix- 
ture come to the boiling point. Drain 
the macaroni and pour the cheese mix- 
ture over; serve hot. 

630-MEs[CED HAM ON TOAST. 

A good way to use the trimmings from 
the cold boiled ham that would not be 
good sliced; take all you have and cut 
with a sausage cutter; to every cupful add 
a spoonful of cream or water, season with 
white pepper and serve on shapes of but- 
tered toast. 

63I-MUSHROOMS, AU VIN. 
I can of button mushrooms, or as much 
of fresh. 

I cup of brown gravy. 
]4. cup of wine. 
Salt, cayenne. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



97 



Drain the liquor from the mushroom 
can, mix with the brown gravy, put in 
half of the wine and boil at the side of 
the range until clear; skim off the fat if 
any; put in the mushrooms, the rest of 
the wine and a dust of cayenne. 

632— MUSSELS. 

Mussels are a small shell fish not more 
than three inches in length and one inch 
in width, almost black; the usual way of 
eating them is boiled or stewed; they may 
be cooked almost in any way pertaining 
to oysters. 



633— STEWED MUSSELS. 
Steam mussels in their shell until they 
open, pull off the beard, take them out 
and put in a saucepan; make a cream 
sauce and pour it over the mussels, add 
minced parsley, and serve in paper cases 
or on buttered toast. 



Ji 



634— CORNED BEEF HASH. 

A good way to use corned beef left over 
from dinner; there are no elaborate rec- 
ipes to follow to make good hash, still it 
seems that but a few people make good 
hash; it is either like a paste or else mix- 
ed up with the vegetables of the boiled 
dinner, or again onions are used in its 
preparation. The meat should be cut in 
extremely fine dice with a sharp knife, it 
will then make a clean, bright looking 
hash. The following proportions can 
be taken as a standard for making corned 
beef hash : 

I coffee cupful of minced corned beef 
pressed in solid. 

4 good sized potatoes boiled purposely. 

I teaspoonf ul of salt. 

}4 teaspoonful of white pepper. 

A basting spoonful of fresh butter. 

3^ cup of stock, milk or water. 

Trim off all the discolored portions on 
the outside of the corned beef; chop the 
potatoes in a wooden bowl with a chop- 
ing knife. Add the other ingredients. 
Salt or butter can be omitted if the corned 
beef is more salty or fatter than usual. 



635— STEWED CORNED BEEF. 

I lb. of cooked corned beef. 

As much of potatoes. 

I onion. 

Pepper. 

Flour thickening. 

Trim the cooked corned beef of all dis- 
colored portions and cut in large dice, 
cut the potatoes the same way and boil 
in salted water fifteen minutes; put the 
corned beef in a saucepan with the minced 
onion and pepper; put in the boiled po- 
tatoes and enough stock to just cover, 
simmer until tender, thicken with flour 
and season. 

636— CHEESE FONDU. 
For an omelet for six make half the 
quantity of Welsh rarebit, when the prep- 
aration is hot and creamy break in four 
eggs, one at a time, stirring like you 
would scrambled eggs. Serve on toast 
cut in fancy shape. 

637— FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREAD 
AND MUSHROOMS. 

1 pound of sweetbreads. 

A cupful of fresh mushrooms. 

2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. 
A tablesp®onful of flour. 

A tablespoonful of minced ham. 

A tablespoonful of minced onion. 

Juice of a large lemon. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Toast. 

Prepare the sweetbreads in seasoned 
broth and press between two pans, remove 
the discolored portions and cut them in 
large dice. Take a large saucepan, put 
in half of the butter, the onion and ham; 
when these are cooked without browning, 
put in the flour and stir the mixture over 
the fire until it begins to color, then add 
a cup of the liquor in which the sweet- 
breads were boiled, a cup of chicken broth 
or liquor of the canned mushrooms, stir 
and let boil until it becomes thick, add a 
little white pepper. Melt the rest of the 
butter in a frying pan, put in the mush- 
rooms and sweetbreads, shake them up 
until they are warm, take them off and 
squeeze in the lemon juice; strain over 
this the sauce from the other saucepan. 



98 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY 



Dish them in heaps in the center of 
individual dishes with small shapes of 
fried bread around. 

638— CALF'S HEAD TURTLE STYLE. 

Cook the calf's head as directed in No. 
479, cut it in large dice and make a sauce 
of: 

I pint of brown gravy. 

I pint of stewed tomatoes. 

I clove of garlic. 

I small onion. 

A teaspoonful of aromatic salt No. i. 

Simmer all together for half an hour 
and strain the sauce; put in the pieces of 
calf's head and add a cupful of pitted 
olives; serve with a garnishing of egg 
balls made as follows: 

The yolk of one hard-boiled egg. 

A much of fresh steamed potatoes. 

Yz teaspoonful of minced parslej'. 

I raw yolk. 

Seasoning of salt and cayenne. 

Pound all together to a paste, make up 
in balls the size of cherries, poach them 
in boiling water. 

639— VANILLA PUFF FRITTERS. 

yi pint of water. 

3 ozs. of butter. 

I basting spoonful of sugar. 
5 ozs. of flour. 

4 small eggs or 3 large. 
A teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Boil the sugar with the water and but- 
ter together; drop in the flour all at once 
and stir over the fire until you have a 
firm, smooth paste; take it off, let it re- 
main five minutes on the table and beat 
in the eggs one at a time, adding the 
vanilla with the last egg, beat the 
paste against the side of the pan for sev- 
eral minutes; fry in lard. 



640— VEAL PIE. 
2 pounds of veal (flank, brisket or neck 
piece) cut in pieces suitable for a stew, 
wash them in cold water, put them in 
the kettle with just enough stock to cover 
with a seasoning of salt, pepper and a 
basting spoonful of minced onions; boil 
half an hour, then throw in six large po- 



tatoes cut in pieces, cook until tender, 
thicken with a little flour, pour in a bak- 
ing dish, cover with paste made as direct- 
ed in No. 305, bake in the oven. 

641— TIMBALES DE MACARONI 
AU TRUFFLES. 

Yt, R). of macaroni. 

1 pint of grated cheese. 

Yi. cup of fresh mushrooms. 

Yi. cup of cold corned tongue. 

Yz cup of truffles. 

Yi pint of brown gravy. 

Cook the macaroni in the usual way, 
cut it lengthwise, when done drain it, 
mix with it a cup of grated cheese, and a 
seasoning of salt and pepper. Slice the 
mushrooms, tongue and truffles, moisten 
them with a spoonful of the brown gravy, 
mix them with the macaroni and cheese. 
Butter some gem-pans, coat them with 
cracker dust, press in the mixture; when 
done turn them out of the mould and 
serve with a spoonful of the grated cheese 
on top and some of the brown gravj' all 
around. 

642— IRISH STEW. 

2 lbs. of breast of mutton. 
As much of potatoes. 

4 onions. 

I turnip. 

I carrot. 

Salt and pepper. 

Cut the brea.st of mutton in small 
square pieces, boil with enough water to 
cover for two hours or until the meat is 
tender, cut the vegetables into large dice 
of equal size, cook them in a separate 
dish. When the mutton is tender and the 
vegetables cooked drain half the liquor 
off the vegetables, put them in w'ith the 
mutton, season with salt and white pep- 
per, and thicken with flour; serve with 
minced parsley .sprinkled over. 

643— KIDNEY SAUTE. 
Slice two beef kidneys, let them lie in 
water half an hour; drain and fry them 
with a spoonful of butter, sprinkle with 
salt and pepper, cook slowly and stir oc- 
casionally; there will be a rich gravy in the 
pan in a short time; if they are not stirred 
occasionall}', the gravy is liable to curdle; 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



99 



they should be done in ten minutes; put 
in a tablespoonful of mushroom or wal- 
nut catsup just before serving. 



644— STEWED LAMB WITH POTA- 
TOES. 
Proceed as directed for stewed corned 
beef, using breast of lamb, or pieces left 
over, instead of corned beef. 



645— GBLETS IN SHELLS. 
Boil the livers, gizzards and hearts of 
fowls in enough stock to cover; when 
done tender drain them out and cut them 
in small pieces. Mince the onion and 
fr>- it in a spoonful of fresh butter, put in 
two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until 
it begins to brown, then add the liquor 
from the giblets gradually as you would 
for cream .sauce; when ready put in the 
cut giblets and season with a tablespoon- 
ful of Worcestershire sauce, a basting 
spoonful of wine, salt and cayenne. Serve 
in rice shells; garnish with parsley. 

646— RAGOUT OF VEAL, 
JARDINIERE. 

I lb. of veal cut into large dice. 

I veal kidney. 

^ ft. salt pork also cut into dice. 

Stir them over the fire in a sauce pan 
with a spoonful of butter until they are 
light brown ; drain off all the fat, throw 
in one-fourth cupful of sliced mushroonis, 
a "half onion , one clove of garlic, both 
minced, and enough brown gravy diluted 
with water to cover; simmer gently until 
done. Cut one pint of various colored 
vegetables (turnip, carrot, squash) in 
small dice, boil these separately in sea- 
soned broth, when done drain and pour 
over these a cupful of cream sauce. Serve 
a spoonful of the ragout with some of 
the vearetable mixture all around. 



^ 



647— RISSOLETTES DE POISSON. 

I cup of cold whitefish, picked free 
from bone and skin. 

^ cup of grated cheese. 

Pound these together in a mortar to a 

LofC. 



paste, season with salt and white pepper. 
Roll out a piece of pie paste very thin, 
cut out with a biscuit cutter, place spoon- 
fuls of the paste in the middle, fold over, 
turn and pinch the edges, brush over 
with beaten eggs, drop these in hot lard, 
take them out while still light colored 
and place them on a paper in a hot oven; 
arrange them in the middle of a platter 
and garnish with parsle}' and hard boiled 
eggs. 

•-* 

648-SALMI OF GROUSE. 
Roast the birds, cool them enough to han- 
dle and cut in pieces suitable for individual 
portions. Make Spanish sauce hot, add 
a basting spoonful of wine and a pinch of 
cayenne to every cup of the sauce; put in 
the cut birds and a half dozen pitted olives 
to each bird. Serve with fried bread or 
croutons for ornament. 

649— LAMB'S TONGUE WITH 
ARTICHOKES. 
Corn half a dozen lamb tongues in the 
corned beef brine, they will be ready in 
five or six days, boil them two hours, 
then dip in cold water so the}' will peel 
easily, and split lengthwise; have the 
halves ready in a dish when the roast 
meat is done, and take it out, lay the 
tongues in the fat and glaze for ten min- 
utes. If roast meat is not available glaze 
them with a cupful of brown gravy and a 
tablespoonful of butter in a baking pan 
in the oven. Cook as many artichokes as 
you have halves of tongiies, cut them in 
halves, scoop out the iibrous part, boil 
and drain them well; serve two halves of 
artichokes with a half of the tongue and 
a spoonful of brown gravy over. 



65a-BEEF A LA CREOLE. 
Pieces of beef from the soup pot are 
best for this excellent entree; cut them in 
pieces suitable to sen^e three to an order. 
Mince an onion and a clove of garlic, frj- 
these in a basting spoonful of melted but- 
ter until they begin to brown then add a 
pint of tomato for every quart of the meat, 
simmer a few minutes and rub the sauce 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



through a colander; season with salt and 
pepper; pour it over the beef and let it 
set in the open oven until ready to serve; 
garnish the edges with Parisienne pota- 
toes. 

651— HOW TO CUT TOAST FOR 

POACHED EGGS. 
Toast three slices of bread of uniform 
size and perfectly square; place one of the 
squares in the middle of the dish, cut the 
two others across the corners, place each 
one of the triangular pieces around the 
square in the dish. 

652-GAME SAUCE. 

I pint of brown gravy. 
I cupful of red currant jelly. 
6 cloves. 

Simmer gently fifteen minutes and 
strain. 

653— ITALIAN SAUCE. 

yi pint of brown gravy. 

I teaspoonful of minced onion. 

3 large mushrooms. 

Teaspoonful of minced parsley. 

Juice of one lemon. 

Salt, cayenne. 

Put a half cupful of the mushroom 
liquor in the brown gravy; add the other 
ingredients, boil fifteen minutes; sprinkle 
the parsley in the sauce just when you are 
ready to serve it. 

654— KROMESKIES. 
Mince equal parts of chicken and calf's 
liver; season with aromatic salt No. i, 
moisten with a little brown gravy; roll 
small tablespoonfuls of the mixture in 
very thin slices of bacon. Secure these 
with a toothpick, dip in batter and fry in 
hot lard. The toothpicks can be removed 
after the rolls are done; serve with Italian 
or mushroom sauce. 

655— GAME KROMESKIES. 
A good way to utilize the remnants of 
cold game of any kind. Pick the meat 
from the bones and mince it with a sau- 



sage cutter; season it with aromatic salt 
No. 2; moisten with wine mixed in equal 
portions with brown gravy; roll up in 
small portions in a very thin slice of 
bacon; secure this with a toothpick; dip 
in batter, fry in hot lard. Serve with 
green peas, game or mushroom sauce. 

656-VEAL CUTLETS A LA BONA- 
PARTE. 

Cut veal steak from the leg very thin, 
and about two and a half inches wide and 
four inches in length; spread -with chicken 
croquette preparation; roll them up and 
place them close together in a buttered 
pan; pour over a little seasoned broth and 
sprinkle with aromatic salt No. i, sift 
cracker dust on top and bake about 
twenty-five minutes. Ser\'e with brown 
sauce and garnish with croutons and' 
slices of lemon dipped in minced parsley.. 

657— POTATO CROQUETTES. 

I pint of steamed potatoes. 

1 basting spoonful of butter. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

yi teaspoon of salt. 

Mash all together,make in long rolls size 
of your finger, dip in beaten egg then 
in cracker meal; fry in hot lard. 

658- STEWED EGG PLANT. 
Stew one pound of coarse cuts of beef 
in two quarts of water, choose small &^g 
plants, cut these in quarters and put 
them in with the meat; add an onion, two 
tomatoes skinned and seeded, salt and 
pepper; stew with the steam shut in until 
the meat is very tender and the liquor al- 
most reduced to a glaze; serve as it is 
without thickening, as the boiled egg- 
plant will almost dissolve and thicken the 
stew sufficiently. 



659— POTTED TONGUE. 

Boil a corned tongue two and a half or 
three hours according to size, dip in cold 
water and peel off the skin, put through 
a sausage cutter; mix one-half pound of 
fresh butter, one teaspoonful of mixed 
ground spices and one-half teaspoonful 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



of salt; then pound these all together to a 
paste, press it in small jars, cups, or any- 
thing convenient, pour clear melted but- 
ter over; keep it in a cool place ready to 
use. 

660— REMOULADE. 

A kind of salad dressing used for many 
'Other purposes; greatly relished by the 
French and Italians; it has the appear- 
ance of thick mayonnaise with onions cut 
in it. 

3 hard boiled eggs. 

2 raw yolks. 

% cup of olive oil. 
yi cup of fresh melted butter. 
% cup of vinegar. 

A teaspoonful each of salt and prepared 
anustard. 

3 cloves of garlic minced and crushed. 
2 tablespoonfuls of finely minced green 

■onions. 

Pinch of cayenne. 

Boil the eggs and pound the hard 
boiled yolks in a bowl with the butter, 
add the mustard, salt and cayenne, then 
the raw yolks, stir in the oil, gradually 
alternating with vinegar as in making 
ma5-onnaise, add the garlic and onion. 

je 

66i— AGNEAU AUX HARICOTS 
VERTS. 

Cut one jjound of breast of lamb in 
small squares, brown it in a frying pan on 
the top of the range, stirring frequently. 
Mince fine a cup of carrots and onions 
mixed, put this in with just enough 
stock to cover and stew until tender,thick- 
en with browned flour and butter, sea- 
son to taste, and add a pint of small 
green beans (cooked). 



662— SPANISH SAUCE. 

Take a large sauce pan, pour into it a 
cupful of clarified butter, a cupful of 
scraps of ham, six medium sized onions, 
an equal quantity of turnip and carrots, a 
teaspoonful of cloves, and as much of all- 
spice and black pepper; lay on this a 
couple of veal shanks and any scraps of 
meat you may have; set this to simmer 
until it becomes light brown , stirring oc- 



casionally; then put in a quart can of to- 
matoes, four quarts of soup stock, a 
basting spoonful of salt and cook gently 
for two hours, then thicken with flour to 
the consistency of rich cream, strain 
through a very fine strainer, let it cool, 
remove the fat when cold; it can be used 
for the making of most all sauces and 
dishes requiring brown gravy and it is 
very often preferable. 

663-PEACH COBBLER. 
Make common pie paste, roll out the 
larger half of it to a thin sheet and take 
it up from the table by rolling it up on 
the rolling pin, then unroll it in the pan, 
put in pared and cut peaches one and one- 
half inches deep, dredge sugar over them 
and cover with a top crust and bake about 
half an hour; cut in squares and serN'e 
like apple dumplings. 

664— PLAIN FRITTERS, No. 2. 
yi pint of flour. 
I teaspoonful of baking powder. 

1 cup of luke-warm milk. 

2 eggs. 

A basting spoonful of melted lard. 

A tablespoonful of syrup. 

Pinch of salt. 

Sift the flour into a pan with the bak- 
ing powder, beat the eggs with the milk, 
add all the rest of the ingredients and 
stir up thoroughly into a soft dough; fry 
large spoonfuls in hot lard and serve with 
maple syrup or fritter sauce. 

665— APPLE COBBLER. 
Made as directed in No. 663, using ap- 
ples instead of peaches; flavor wnth nut- 
meg or cinnamon. 

666— FARINA FRITTERS. 
Make farina cake as directed in No. 
597; when cold slice it in long narrow 
pieces; give it a double breading and fry 
in hot lard ; when done roll the fritters in 
powdered sugar and serve without sauce. 
The cracker crumbs may be flavored with 
grated orange or lemon rind. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTLSTIC COOKERY 



667— PLAIN BOILED RICE. 
Wash the rice in three waters, boil it 
half an hour in four times its vohune of 
water, throw all in the colander to drain, 
pour two or three quarts of cold water 
over it, when it was drained put il back 
in the dish in which it was cooked with a 
little salt, let it get hot again without 
scorching; the grains will then be loosened 
and distinct and ready to serve as directed 
for curries and other dishes. 

668— TO BOIL VEGETABLES GREEN. 
To boil beet greens. asparagus and string 
beans so the}^ will retain their brilliant 
color, steep in cold water two hours be- 
fore they are cooked, then put in water 
that is already boiling; just before drop- 
ping them in add a little bicarbonate of 
soda, too much soda will turn the vege- 
tables yellow, but a little will preserve 
the color. Spinach, Brussel sprouts, 
spring cabbage and sorrel will be kept 
green by the same treatment, using car- 
bonate of ammonia instead of bicarbonate 
of soda. For green celery leaves direc- 
tions have been given elsewhere in this 
book. 

669— POTATOES AU FINE HERBS. 
Cut each potato in cubes of even size, 
boil these in water and drain off before 
they are quite done; fry in clear lard a 
light color; sprinkle with fine .salt and 
parslej' dust. 

670— POTATOES A LA POULETTE. 
Cut Parisienne potatoes with a spoon or 
cutter made purposely, boil in salted wa- 
ter, drain, and pour over butter sauce 
made as directed in No. 126 with the ad- 
dition of two yolks of eg^ to every pint 
of sauce; serve with fish. 



671— MASHED POTATOES. 
To make good mashed potatoes milk, 
cream or butter are not absolutely neces- 
sary; vigorous pounding and mashing 
will make the potatoes light and white. 
Of course they will be better if milk, 
cream or butter is added, but do not put 



in the seasoning until the potatoes are 
perfectly smooth, without a lump, and 
very white. 

672— BRUSSEL SPROUTS. 
Brussel sprouts are a species of cabbage 
that grow on a tall stem about the size of 
apples. They are considered superior to 
cabbage and are cooked in all the ways 
prescribed for it, 

673— STEWED BUTTER BEANS. 

Throw the butter beans into a sauce pan 
of water that is already boiling; they will 
be done in about half an hour if young, 
green beans; drain the water off and pour 
over a little cream, butter and salt; may 
be thickened or not as desired. 

674— STEWED CUCUMBER. 
Pare two cucumbers, cut them in thick 
slices and boil in water to which j^ou have 
added a basting spoonful of vinegar and 
a teaspoonful of salt; when they have 
boiled gently for fifteen minutes take off 
and drain. Have ready one-half pint of 
cream sauce, beat in two yolks of eggs, 
add the juice of half a lemon; pour this 
over the cucumber. 

675— CAULIFLOWER AND CREAM. 
Boil the cauliflower in salted water un- 
til it is tender, it must not boil very hard 
otherwise it destroys the appearance of 
the cauliflower; when the stem is tender 
it is done; drain them carefully and dish 
up with a spoonful of cream sauce poured 
over each portion. 

676— ROASTED CORN. 
Roast ears of tender sweetcorn a half 
hour, shave the corn off the cob and sea- 
son it with a little butter, salt, pepper, 
milk or cream. 

677— CORN AND TOMATOES. 
Cut the corn from the cob, or use 
canned corn; instead of milk put in 
stewed tomatoes; salt and pepper. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



103 



678— SWEET TOMATOES. 
Peel and put them in a pan with sugar 
enough to cover, and bake in a slow oven; 
the sugar will melt and dry down to 
syrup; serve for dinner as a vegetable. 

679— FRESH CORN PUDDING. 

1 pint of fresh corn grated off the cob. 

2 yolks of eggs. 
Teacupful of milk. 

Piece of butter the size of a lemon. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Mix all these ingredients together and 
bake in a pan; when light brown it is 
ready to serve. 

680— BROWN CARROTS. 
Boil the carrots until they are tender, 
drain and put them in a pan in the oven 
with a cup of roast pork fat, dredge them 
■with salt and white pepper and bake 
them light brown. 

■ ^ 
681— FRIED CARROTS. 
Cut the carrots in long strips, boil them 
in salted water until they are tender, 
drain, roll in flour, and fry in hot lard. 

682— STEWED CARROTS. 
Best when the carrots are young; split 
the crrrots lengthwise and boil in salted 
water until tender; drain and ser\'e in a 
sauce made as directed in No. 140. 

683— BEET GREENS. 
The leaves of young beets; carefully 
wash and steep in cold water an hour be- 
fore cooking; when ready throw them in 
a kettle of boiling water to which you 
have added a quarter teaspoonful of bak- 
ing soda; they will cook in about thirty- 
five minutes, drain, and season with salt 
and very fat salt pork cut in dice and 
fried. 

684— SUCCOTASH. 
Com and beans mixed in equal quanti- 
ties and seasoned with milk, butter, salt 
and pepper. Any kind of garden beans 



can be used, but if these are not available 
use green canned lima beans. 

685— HOT SLAW. 

1 head of white cabbage. 
14, cup of vinegar. 

% cup of water. 

2 yolks of e>3gs. 

I tablespoonful of butter. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

Shred the cabbage fine; mix the yolks 
with the water; put all the ingredients in 
the sauce pan and place this into another 
sauce pan containing hot water, stir oc- 
casionally until it reaches the boiling 
point, but it must not boil; put in the 
cabbage; when hot, add a pinch of 
white pepper and a tablespoonful of sugar. 

Another way of making hot slaw is to 
shred the cabbage fine and boil it, drain 
and season with vinegar, butter, salt and 
pepper. 

686— FRIED HOMINY. 
Make hominy mush in the usual way, 
pour it out in a shallow pan and cool, 
when cold cut in slices, roll them in flour 
and fry light brown. Good to serve vdth 
fish, game or chicken. 

6S7— KOHL-RABI. 
A light green turnip or swelled cabbage 
stalk growing above ground, pare and cut 
in large dice, cook as you would turnip; 
drain, serve with a white sauce. 



688— COLD STRING BEANS. 
Cut the beans down the whole length, 
shredding them, boil until done, drain, 
and cool, pour over enough oil to make 
them shine, add salt, pepper and vinegar, 
shake them up and serve on a leaf of let- 
tuce. 



689— DRIED LIMA BEANS. 
Soak one-half pint of dry lima beans in 
cold water for a few hours, boil them 
about an hour; drain, and season with 
cream, butter, salt and pepper, or again 
with bacon cut in very small dice stewed 



I04 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



with the beans. A pinch of bicarbonate 
of soda may be added to facilitate the 
boiling. 

690— POTATOES BAKED IN MILK. 

Cut thin slices of raw potatoes into a 
tin baking pan, add part of a green on- 
ion, season with salt and pepper and piece 
of butter, and just enough milk to cover, 
bake slowly in the oven until the milk is all 
boiled down as thick as cream and brown 
on top. 

691— BOILED RICE WITH CREAM. 
Wash half a cup of rice and put it to 
boil in a cup of water with the steam shut 
in; when nearly dry add a half pint of 
milk and a half teaspoouful of salt; when 
done mix in some fresh cream. 

.^ 

692— SUMMER SQUASH. 
Should always be steamed so as to cook 
as dry as possible to allow the addition 
of milk or cream. Shave off the outside 
very thin and cut the squash in large 
pieces, takeout the entire core; imlessthe 
squash is very young, steam twenty-five 
minutes or a little more according to size 
of squash ; mash and let simmer or dry a 
little more; add cream, salt and pepper. 

693— CREAMED CABBAGE. 
Boil the cabbage in the usual way, 
chop it, season and serve a spoonful of 
the cabbage with white sauce poured 
over. 

694— FRIED CABBAGE. 
A good wa}' to use cabbage left over; 
chop and put in a little additional sea- 
soning and fry it in a little butter. 

695— GREEN PEAS. 
Green peas should not take more than 
half an hour to cook, otherwise they are 
really not worth eating. They will pre- 
serve their color better if cooked in hard 
water; have the water boiling when vou 



put the peas in, add a little salt and boil 
gently until done. It should not be nec- 
essary to use soda, but if the peas are old 
they will cook quicker by using it. Drain 
off all the water and season with cream, 
butter; salt and white pepper. 

696— BOILED SEA KALE. 
Trim off the root, wash in plenty of 
water to free from grit, boil in salted wa- 
ter about twenty minutes, drain and sea- 
son with salt and melted butter. 

697— BOILED ONIONS. 
Boil the onions in plenty of water in a 
granite dish, strain, and pour cream sauce 
over or hot milk, butter, salt and white 
pepper. 

698— STRING BEANS. 
Throw the beans in water that is already 
boiling, put in a pinch of soda and boil 
an hour; cut them up and season with 
salt pork minced very fine fried with- 
out changing color, and white pepper. 

699— SWEET POTATOES. 
Can be baked, steamed, candied or 
fried. They can be fried when raw, or 
what remains of the steamed sweet pota- 
toes; cut them in slices quarter of an inch 
thick and full size of the potato, fry them 
carefully in lard that is not hot enough 
to blacken them. They are better when 
first steamed then fried. 

700— FRIED EGG PLANT. 
Slice the egg plant without paring, 
boil the slices a few minutes in salted 
water, drain them, while still warm, dust 
with pepper, dip the slices in flour and 
fry in a little sweet drippings or clarified 
butter; must be served hot. 



701— BROWNED SWEET POTATOES. 
Boil the sweet potatoes, drain them, 
put in a pan, dredge over with salt and 
baste -wnth butter, bake light brown. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



105 



702— STEWED TURNIPS. 
Turnips should be pared thick, as the 
rind contains a strong, disagreeable fla- 
vor; boil them in salted water until ten- 
der, drain and cut in cubes, pour cream 
sauce over, sprinkle with minced parsley; 
or they can be mashed and seasoned with 
butter, salt, white pepper and vinegar. 



703— TO CURL CELERY. 
Slit the top evenly with a sharp potato 
knife and set the celery in glasses of ice- 
water; leave on enough of the green tops 
so they will have a nice appearance; slit 
them evenly, as they will curl outward 
as far as the cut extends, and will have a 
better appearance if of uniform length. 



704— WATERCRESS. 
Watercress seems to be for no justifia- 
ble reason ; a greater favorite among for- 
eigners than Americans; still it is very 
plentifully cultivated and indigenous to 
our mountain streams. We have given 
many directions how to serve it and for 
garnishing in this book, but it may be 
used as a relish if carefully picked, the 
stems trimmed and served with salt. 

a« 

705— RADISHES. 
The radishes should be cleaned and 
left in ice-water some time before serving; 



they appear very well mixed with olives, 
or cut in thin slices and served on a leaf 
of lettuce. 

706— CUCUMBERS. 
Cucumbers should be sliced and steeped 
in ice-water some time before they are 
served; drain them out and strew with 
pounded ice, or they may be served with 
tomato sliced very then and placed alter- 
nately in the dish. 



707— GREEN ONIONS. 
Still seem to be in great demand, also 
the large white Spanish onion, sliced in 
vinegar. They will be improved if sliced 
some time before they are served and 
steeped in ice-water mixed with vinegar. 

708— COLD BEETS. 
Boil them until tender, slice them very 
thin and put in jars with vinegar and a 
few caraway seeds. 

709— TOMATOES. 
Serve them plain, sliced with pounded 
ice strewed over. They may be sent to 
the table with sliced cucumbers and on- 
' ions and a side dish of mayonnaise. 



Galantines; Patties^ Cold Dishes^ Sandwiches* 



710— ASPIC JELLY. 

Aspic jelly is very essential to the mak- 
ing of a variety of cold dishes, in fact the 
success of many of them depends alto- 
gether upon good aspic jelly ; proper- 
ly made it will keep several days on ice. 

ID lbs. of calves' feet, first joints of 
pigs' feet, old fowls, beef shins. 

I Yz gallons of water. 

Boil gently for fourteen hoiirs then add 

I small onion. 

}4 oi a turnip. 

I carrot. 

A small half teaspoonful of cloves. 

A tablespoonful of pepper and salt mix - 
ed. 

The juice of three lemons. 

The whites of four eggs. 

Other meats and bones may be used 
outside those named, but these are pref- 
erable as they contain more gelatinous 
matter than the ordinary soup material; 
they should be boiled in a boiler having a 
double bottom, if this is not procurable 
or not handy, put a granite pie-plate 
or an ordinarj' dinner plate in the bottom; 
put in the cold water and bring it to a 
boil and skim off all that rises; put on a 
tight cover and let it simmer fourteen 
hours or more; by that time it will be 
reduced to a little more than one-half the 
quantity of water first put in and will set 
when cold. The vegetables and other 
seasonings should be added after the 
stock has boiled six hours; strain through 
a napkin all that is in the boiler, skim 
the fat and let it boil down to two quarts, 
set to cool and take off the fat from the 
top; there must not be the least particle 
left. Melt the jelly, put in the lemon 
juice, add all the whites of eggs and 
shells with a cupful of ice-water and whip 
a moment, boil very gently for about 
half an hour. If the whites of eggs are 
not well cooked it gives the jelly a milky 
appearance, if it boils sufficiently the 



whites get hard and the jelly will strain 
clear. Do not try to dispense with the 
lemon in making aspic jelly; the object 
of the lemon is that the acid cuts the 
jelly and allows it to run through the 
flannel or jelly bag. The aspic is then 
ready to cool; it may be cooled on plates 
colored with caramel, beet juice, etc., 
and stamped out in fancy shapes for dec- 
orating purposes. 

7n— AROMATIC SALT NO. U 

I oz. of ground nutmeg. 

I oz. of ground mace. 

I oz. ground thyme. 

I oz. ground basil. 

I oz. ground cloves. 

I oz. ground white pepper. 

j4 teaspoonful ground bay leaves. 

8 lbs. of fine salt. 

Mix thoroughly and put into fruit jars; 
carefully sealed, it will keep for years and 
always be ready for use in making various 
cold dishes. 

7 12- AROMATIC SALT NO. 2. 
I oz. ground sage. 
I oz. ground thyme. 
I oz. ground marjoram. 
I oz. ground mace. 
I oz. ground cloves. 
I oz. ground nutmeg. 
X teaspoonful of ground bay leaves. 
X teaspoonful of rosemary. 

1 oz. white pepper. 
8 ft)s. salt. 

Mix thoroughly and seal in fruit jars 
ready for use. 

7J3— GALANTINE DE POULET. 

2 large fowls. 

I corned tongue. 

j!^ lb. of fat salt pork. 

5 hard-boiled eggs. 

A teacupful of aspic jelly. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



107 



Aromatic salt No. i for seasoning. 
. Take the chicheus unopened, wash 
them and singe, then bone by cutting 
the skin down the whole length of the 
back close to the backbone with a sharp 
pointed knife, cutting close to the bone 
until the hip joint and wing joints are 
reached, then cut partially around, and 
with the butt end of the carving-knife 
chop through the joints, cut a little far- 
ther and loosen all along. The whole 
backbone can then be taken out as far as 
the joints, leaving the wings and breast to 
be boned. Bone the wing and drumstick 
almost to the end joint, then chop this 
off, as it is to be tucked in the body; take 
out the brea.st bone. Care must be exer- 
cised at the point of the breast where the 
skin is almost attached to the top of the 
breast-bone; cut into the bone a little 
rather than to risk cutting through the 
skin ; this is the part that will show the 
most in the galantine. When boned lay 
them skin downward on the table, season 
with aromatic salt No. 1. Have the tongue 
ready cooked, cut this in strips the size 
of a pencil and as long as possible, then 
the fat pork cut likewise; lay these length- 
wise on the boned fowl, cutting into the 
thickest parts of the meat so as to lay 
the pork and tongue alternately and as 
evenly as possible; cut the eggs in slices 
and lay them evenly among the strips, 
then strew over some of the aspic jelly. 
Bone the other fowl likewi.se; this should 
be smaller than the first descrilied, dou- 
ble this up carefully and lay inside the 
other fowl, the breast being at the oppo- 
site end of the other, bring the two edges 
of the outside fowl together and .sew it 
up with twine, moisten a cloth with olive 
oil and wrap up the galantine in it with 
a good many wraps, sew it up .securely 
and tie with twine; boil this in soup 
stock with the fowls' bones and a bunch 
of soup vegetables added. There should 
be no heavy seams in the cloth as it will 
leave marks on the galantine after it is 
pressed. Four hours is not too much to 
boil an old fowl. Stuff as described in 
this recipe. Of course if they are young 
ones they will boil in half the time. When 
done remove the kettle and place 
it where it will cool without removing 
the galantine; when cold enough to han- 



dle take it up and place it in a deep mold 
or pan of some sort, or if not to be deco- 
rated, between two large platters and put 
a weight on top, such as a twenty-five 
pound butter-tub or half a sack of flour. 
There is a special mold made to cool 
these galantines and if used the galan- 
tines will look a good deal better. They 
may be set on ice to cool; when perfectly 
cold warm the shape or mold in which 
they have been placed in press, take out 
the galantine, remove the cloth, wipe 
neatly with a cloth dipped in hot water, 
and trim off any discolored or protruding 
portions. Galantines are served sliced 
or whole and decorated as described in 
part five of this book. 

7 J4— CAVIARE. 
Caviare is a preparation made of stur- 
geon roe; as soon as caught they are 
opened and the rocs taken out, rubbed 
through a sieve, salted and preserved in 
some special way. It is generally bought 
in cans ready for use, in which form they 
are as black as trvrffles. They can be 
warmed a little in softened butter and 
served on toast, or used for flavoring 
mayonnaise to serve with fish, and again 
to ornament by forcing through a tube, 
more details of which can be seen in part 
five of this book. 

7I5-GALANTINE OF GOOSE. 

1 large goose. 

2 ducks. 

i/^ lb. of white bread crumbs. 

I onion. 

5 hard-boiled eggs. 

% cupful of melted butter. 

3 raw eggs. 

Yz pint of aspic jelly. 

5 teaspoonfuls of aromatic salt No. 2. 

Pick the meat from the ducks, cut it in 
small dice as you would chicken for sal- 
ad, cut the boiled eggs and onion like- 
wise, mix all together, put in the season- 
ing, moisten with the raw eggs and 
melted butter; bone the goose as directed 
in recipe No. 713; fill the boned goose 
with this force-meat, strew the jelly over 
and proceed as directed for galantine of 
chicken; cool, and serve plain or deco- 
rated. 



io8 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



7I6-FOIES GRAS EN JELLY. 
^ lb. of chicken livers. 
Yz lb. of calf's liver. 
The white meat of one chicken. 
^ lb. of fat salt pork. 
2 ozs. of bread panada. 
I small, red, corned tongue. 
I can of truffles. 

1 cupful of fresh mushrooms. 
4 raw yolks of eggs. 

A small teacupful of Madeira or Amon- 
tillado. 

2 tablespoonf uls of aromatic salt No. i . 
The livers must be free of gall stains, 

let them remain all night in ice-water; 
melt the fat pork without scorching in a 
saucepan, add all the livers cut very 
small, cook about five minutes stirring 
all the time, the livers must be just cook- 
ed; when done pound these to a paste, 
rub through a sieve, cut the tongue in 
small dice, the mushrooms and truffles 
likewise and mix them as evenly as pos- 
sible in the liver paste. Cover the bot- 
tom of a mold with very thin slices of 
salt pork, put in the paste, then more 
slices of salt pork on top; set the mold 
in a pan of water, put it in the oven and 
bake two hours; when done let it get cold 
in the mold, dip that in hot water and 
turn it out, take off all the fat, then smooth 
the paste with a hot knife; glaze or cover 
with jelh', or ornament as directed for 
Galantine en Bellevue. 



717— GALANTINE DE BECASSDMES. 

Prepare a forcemeat of 
6 ozs. of lean cold roast pork. 
6 ozs. of chicken meat. 
ID ozs. of fresh fat pork. 
Season witli a teaspoonful of Aromatic 
Salt No. I, pound to a paste through a 
sieve; then cut in small dice: 

A small red corned tongue or one-half 
a large one. 

Yz lb. of chicken livers previously boiled 
for ten minutes. 

Yz lb. of cooked salt pork, as much of 
lean cooked ham. 
I can of truffles. 
I can of mushrooms. 
A level tablespoonful of Aromatic Salt 
No. I. 

Yz glass of old Sherry. 



When these are all cut into small dice 
sprinkle the aromatic salt and the wine 
over and mix them lightly. Bone a dozen 
quails, proceeding as directed for Galan- 
tine of Chicken No. 713; when ready put 
them on the table, skin downwards, wipe 
dry and clean, cut some of the meat from 
the breast and lay it over the thin parts, 
then spread over the inside of the quails 
a little of the forcemeat paste, over that 
a layer of the dice cut mixture, then fold 
up the quails to their original shape, sew 
them up and wrap them in a slice of fat 
salt pork; these must now be cooked in 
little pans made of granite ware, 
either round or oval, large enough so the 
liquid or gravy will come above the quails; 
press the galantines each separately in the 
pans, pour over each a tablespoonful of 
melted butter, as much of meat glaze, 
then cover each one with a paste made of 
flour and water as directed in No. 252. 
Set these pans in a shallow pan contain- 
ing hot water and bake in the oven for an 
hour and a quarter, when done remove 
the paste covering, when partly cooled 
press them by setting another pan of the 
same size over each one of the galantines 
with a weight on top; when cold take the 
galantines from the mold, remove the 
covering of bacon, trim and decorate 
them, or use them for making ballottines 
or other ornamental dishes as directed in 
Part V. 

718— TETE DE COCHON FARQ. 

Split a pig's head beginning at the 
crown; it must not be fat, but that of a 
young porker. Bone the head, wash it 
very carefully and let it lie two days in 
corned beef brine made as directed in No. 
375; when ready take the head from the 
pickle, wash it in cold water, cut off the 
ears and any discolored portions; lay the 
head on the table, shin downward, slice 
off some of the meat from the thick parts 
and lay over some of the thin parts. Have 
ready four pounds of sausage, one-half 
dozen of pigs' tongues pickled in the com 
beef brine and two pounds of fat salt pork; 
spread some sausage meat over the halves, 
cut the tongue and fat pork in strips the 
size of a pencil and lay them alternately 
on the sausage crosswise of the head. 



I'RArj'ICAI, AND ARTIvSTiC COOKKUY. 



109 



cover tilt* 8tri])H with a layer of Ihc sriii- 
WiK**! roll tip*^'*^' 'lalvcK lij^litly, l>tniiiiiiii}> 
nt the narrowest eiul, tlie H)ll luii.sl he of 
an even IhiekiieKH from one end to the 
other so when eut it will nppenr nieely 
mixed and even; tie np in white cotton 
and Hew it Heenreiy, hoil six and a half 
hourH in a boiler lar^re enough ho that the 
roll will he eonipletely covered; when 
<Ione preHS these between two paim with a 
weifjht on top; when cold remove the 
cloth and wi])e with <i towel dipped in hot 
water; coat it with iiNpic jelly and serve 
tliin hHcch. 



7J9-CLOTH FOR GALANTINE. 

New cloth slionhl never lie nsed in 
wra])i)in){ np (galantine or hoiielesM fowls 
of any kind, as it imparts a decided taste. 
Ivinen thid has been wasluvl s<'v«'ral tiniis, 
or even cotton ansMers tlu' piir])ow b<t 
ter than iinythin}^ elHe, 



720- HEAD CHEESE. 

Split the head, bone it and clean 
thoronj^hly, let it stand in eorne<l beef 
brine ft)r three days, then lake it ojit and 
wash in cold water and boil fonr bonis, 
then cnl up the meat, strain the licpior 
through a very five sieve; j)utall back in- 
to the boiler and Himtner an hour longer, 
add a seasoning of salt, pejjper and saj^je, 
and ]>resH in any kind of pan or mold 
that is handy. Do not use any fat heads, 
or if yon must dos<», remove idl the fat or 
else add as much of corned tonjj;ue, lean 
boiled ham, or boiled beef. 

72J PETITS PATES DE FOIES DE 
POULETS. 

14. 1^>. of chicken livers. 
^ lb. of clear fat salt ]K>rk. 
% cooked corne<l tongue. 

2 bastinj^ sjjooiifnis of sherry. 

A teasj)oonfid of aromatic salt No. 2. 

4 o/s. of bread panada soake*! in ndlk 
instead of water, then H(|ueeM.'d dry in a 
cloth. 

1 large raw egg or two snudl ones, 

3 hardboiled yolks. 

2 basting s]ioonfnls of chopped mush- 
rooms. 



(■reen as])ic jelly. 

lyel the livers renniin in i«'e-cold water 
three hours, put in a saucejian together 
the livers, salt jiork, sli<rry, aromatic salt 
and four slices of the «o<(ked tongue, put 
the lid on so as to keep the steam shut in 
and simmer at the back of the range three 
hours, then mash the contents of the 
.saucepan to a ])aste; it should be almost 
dry and ready to fry in the jian. Mix the 
iiiw eggs with the bread panada, add this, 
then nd» through a sieve, t'nl the re- 
nuiiiider»)f the tongue, mushrooms and 
hard boiled yolks in small <lic<-, mix these 
in the jiaste; fdl buttered pajier cases twt)- 
thirds full of this mixture; bake them 
twenty minutes in the oven; when done 
let them cool and serve with a snudl cone 
of green aspic on top, or put thin slices «)f 
salt ])ork in the bottom of a baking dish, 
put in tlu- mixliire with more slices of 
sidt j)ork s])uad on toj); put this bidcing- 
])an in another shallow pan contaiain^ 
water, with a grease<l paper over, and 
bake in the oven a hidf hour; when done 
let it cool a few minutes, turn it out, free 
it from any excess of fat; <lecorate it like 
galantine or any other boned fowl. 

722 GLAZING OF MEAT. 

Metd gla/e might bctlei Ix' described as 
condensed beef tea. Hoil down stock or 
unthickened gravy until as thick as 
syrup when cold; it <;in Ibni be used to 
gla/e meat of any kind by ajpplying with 
a brush and «lryiug in a waini ])luce; it 
nniy be necessary to giv« two 01 three 
coats to nnike a good gla/e. 



723 TURKEY SAUSAGE. 
Take the skin off a large turkey or a 
fowl by first cutting down the biuk and 
around the joints leaving the skin as 
nearly whole as possible, tluii cut all the 
meat from the carcass without any gris- 
tle; chop it raw like sausage meat then 
pound it in a chopping bowl with the 
masher, mix in half as mm h of fat salt 
pork cho])ped and pounde«l likewise; sea- 
son with aronuttic salt No. 2; roll it up in 
the skin of the fowl tiien in a cloth and 
boil this in seasoned broth, let boil an 
hour and a half, take it out ami let cool 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



in the cloth it has boiled in. Slice cold 
and ornament with parsley. Very good 
for sandwiches. 



r^ 



724— POULETS AU TRUFFLES. 

Take two fat young chickens. 

I can of truffles. 

8 ozs. salt pork. 

Seasoning of aromatic salt No. i. 

Bone the fowls according to the direc- 
tions given in No. 713; lay one chicken 
inside the other, the breast against the 
dark meat. Cut the salt pork in strips 
the size of a penc'l, make gashes m the 
thick parts of the meat so as to lay the 
strips evenly; slice the truffles and dispose 
them as evenlj^ as pcssibly between the 
strips of salt pork, dredge with the aro- 
matic salt, bring the two .sides together 
and sew up the fowl in its original shape 
as far as it is possible; wrap it up in a 
cloth and sew tightly 'n such a manner as 
to make a shape of the cloth, boil two and 
a half hours in light stock lightly salted; 
when done let it remain an hour in the 
kettle it has boiled in then take out and 
cool; when thoroughly cold remove the 
cloth, wipe it with a towel dipped in hot 
water, and coat the chickens with aspic 
jelly or glaze. Cut in thin slices and ar- 
range in an attractive manner on a flat 
platter; decorate the edges with parsley 
and cut flowers. 



^ 



725-SHRmiPS EN ASPIC. 

One quart of shrimps, lay aside the 
broken pieces to be used in sauce or else- 
where, put a teaspoonful each of oil and 
vinegar on the shrimps and shake them 
up; chop some bri;ilit brandy colored 
jelly, clea:i two hcails of nice fresh let- 
tuce, season .this with vinegar and salt; 
spread a spoonful of this green salad on a 
small individual dish arranging the pret- 
tiest leaves to form a border, then a 
spoonful of the chopped jelly, and spread 
it out evenly; lay the shrimps in a row 
over the jelly; have ready some red 
colored aspic jelly, chop this very fine, 
take it up on the end of a silver fork and 
sprinkle it all over the dish by striking 
the fork. 



726— MAYONNAISE OF CHICKEN. 
Bone two young plump chickens, wash 
them in cold water, dry them, lay out on 
a table and dredge plentifully with aro- 
matic salt No. i; lay the two together 
with the white meat of the one on the 
dark meat of the other; roll up, tie with 
twine and boil them in seasoned broth for 
an hour; M'hen done remove the twine 
and lay the chickens flat on a large plat- 
ter, place a platter of the same size on top 
with a light weight and set to cool; when 
cold trim the edges to make a square form 
of the chickens. Have some mayonnaise 
ready, flavored with garlic vinegar, whip 
a cup each of the mayonnaise and aspic 
jelly, when about ready to set coat over 
each piece of the chicken. Lay the pieces 
on a bed of finely chopped celery and 
shredded lettuce, for a border sprinkle 
minced hard boiled eggs on the bed of 
celery. The aspic jelly should be just 
melted before it is whipped with the 
mayonnaise. 

727— BONED TURKEY. 

A small turkey. 

I very large chicken. 

A corned tongue. 

}( lb. dry salt pork. 

6 hard boiled eggs. 

% pint of aspic jelly. 

Seasoning,. 

Bone tne turkey and chicken by first 
cutting down the whole length of the 
back as directed for galantine of chicken 
in No. 713; wash and wipe dry, lay skin 
downwards on the table, season with aro- 
matic salt No. I. Cut the cooked red 
tongue and fat salt pork into strips the 
size of a pencil, lay them on the turkey 
meat lengthwise, cutting gashes in the 
thickest parts so as to lay the strips even- 
ly. Chop the yolks of eggs in quarters 
and disperse them among the strips as 
evenly as possible; chop the jelly and 
strew it over; double up the chicken 
carefully and place it in such a manner 
that the breast will be on the dark meat 
of the turkey; bring the two edges of the 
turkey together and sew it up. Grease a 
cloth and roll the galantine up in it ver>- 
tightly and boil in seasoned stock three 
and a half hours; cool and proceed as di- 
rected for galantine of chicken. 



PRACTICAI. AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Ill 



728-BONED TURKEY IN ASPIC 
JELLY. 

Warm the mold and take out the 
boned turkey, remove the cloth, draw out 
the thread, wipe off the fat with a towel 
dipped in hot water, and shave off any 
discolored portions; stamp out with a 
vegetable cutter shapes from a thick green 
pickle and a pickled red beet, place these 
on the bottom of the mould from which 
the turkey was taken, which has been 
well washed and dried, and replace the 
turkey; this will leave a small space un- 
der the turkey, allowing the jelly to 
thoroughly coat it. Have nice aspic jelly 
ready and pour it in the dish all around 
the turkey; when perfectly cold turn out 
of the mold. May be sent to the table 
whole or thinly sliced with some of the 
jelly served with it. 



729— GALANTINE, ANOTHER WAY. 

I large fat fowl. 
6 ozs. salt pork. 
As much of butter. 

1 cupful of white bread crumbs. 

2 raw eggs. 

4 hard boiled eggs. 

Yz pint of melted aspic jelly. 

Juice of a lemon. 

Aromatic salt No. i. 

Pick the white meat from the fowl and 
pound it to a paste, mix in the fat salt 
pork, the pepper, salt, bread crumbs and 
butter. Mix the raw eggs with the aspic 
jelly and add the juice of the lemon, 
moisten the forcemeat with this. Have 
a turkey or chicken ready boned as 
directed elsewhere; slice meat from the 
thick parts to cover over the thin ; dredge 
a little aromatic salt over this, and strew 
over the turkey halt of the dark meat cut 
in small slices, then half of the forcemeat 
and the yolks of the hard boiled eggs cut 
in slices, then the rest of the minced dark 
meat, and over that spread the remainder 
of the forcemeat, the yolks of the hard 
boiled eggs cut in slices, and the rest of 
the dark meat; bring up the two edges of 
the turkey or fowl together, wrap in a 
cloth and boil as directed for Galantine 
de Poulet. 



730— TRANCHES DE GALANTINE 
EN JELLY. 
Coat the side of a fancy mold with 
clear aspic jelly — for details of this ope- 
ration see Part V. Line it with slices of 
turkey or chicken galantine, one slice 
slightly overlapping the other, in the 
center put a boned bird; fill up with jelly; 
turn it out on a standard or stand and 
decorate it as elaborately as you wish. 

73 J -BONED CHICKEN. 

Proceed exactly as in recipe No. 713. 

,^ 

732— CORNED BEEF IN JELLY. 
Boil a roll of boneless corned beef, the 
streaked kind preferred; when cold cut 
in slices and lay these on a large platter, 
pour over enough aspic jelly to just cover 
them; when cold cut out slices of beef 
and jelly with a tin cutter, place these on 
the dish they are to be served on, and 
garnish with parsley. 



733-CORNED BEEF IN JELLY, 
ANOTHER WAY. 

Cook any part of good, red, corned beef 
until tender, cut it in little squares, drop 
these in small muffin tins and fill with 
aspic jelly; when cold turn out and deco- 
rate with parsley. 

734-COLD BOILED ROUND OF BEEF. 

A splendid dish for Sunday school pic- 
nics or outdoor entertainments. Corn a 
whole round of beef, let it remain in the 
brine fifteen days, then wash it and re- 
move the center bone. Cut strips of fat 
salt pork as thick as your thumb and 
lard the beef with these, using a narrow 
pointed carving knife to make the incis- 
ions and a pencil instead of a larding 
needle, attaching the end of the strip of 
pork to that of the pencil, fill the cavity 
in the center with a piece of beef cut to 
fit it; roll the round tightly in a stout 
cloth, sew it up and boil eight hours; 
when done press it in a lard or butter 
tub with a heavy weight on top; when 
cold remove the cloth and wipe with a 
towel dipped in hot water; place this on 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



a large wooden dish and trim it with 
parsley and cut wild flowers. 

735— SPICED BEEF ROLL. 

Secure a slice of beef cut two inches 
thick from the round, cover the top with 
thin slices of salt pork; roll up and tie 
securely and keep in spiced pickles for 
two weeks, then boil till tender and serve 
cold. 



736— PICKLE FOR SPICED MEAT. 
I gallon of water. 
I oz. saltpeter. 

1 K). of salt. 

2 basting spoonfuls of brown sugar. 

1 oz. whole black pepper bruised. 

2 ozs. of mixed spices. 
4 bay leaves. 

Tie the spices in a small cotton bag and 
put them in a keg or jar and pour the 
hot brine over; good for beef, lamb's 
tongue, etc. 

737— PIG'S HEAD GALANTINE. 

Take a small pig's head, cut off with a 
good deal of the neck attached, scrape and 
singe clean; bone it carefully by begin- 
ning at the throat and cutting close to 
to the bone until the skull is all removed; 
let it remain in pickle five days,take it out, 
wash and stuff it with strips of red tongue, 
salt pork and chicken or turkey force- 
meat, season with aromatic salt No. 2. 
Give to the head its natural shape as 
much as possible; sew all the apertures 
with twine, roll it up in bands of cloth 
and sew up securely; boil six hours in 
stock seasoned with vegetables, the juice 
of a lemon and a tablespoonful of aro- 
matic salt No. 2; when done let it cool in 
the liquor it has boiled in urtil it is cold 
enough to handle easily; remove the cloth 
and bind the head again with bands of 
cloth, drawing it to its natural shape, set 
the ears up with pieces of split wood. 
When cold remove the bandage and twine 
with which you have sewed the cuts, 
wipe with a towel dipped in hot water; 
glaze or coat it with aspic jelly. 



738— PATES OR RAISED PIES. 

Are made with a form of rich crust 
filled with anything that is good to eat 
cold. They may be filled with boned 
chicken, turkey, duck or goose prepared 
as directed for galantines, potted quail, 
minced ham, or any other of the cold 
dishes herein mentioned. Make a short 
paste of one part of butter to two of flour 
with a little salt and milk, knead it smooth 
and compact; put in a bottom crust one- 
half inch thick and line the sides of a 
raised pie mold, brushing the lower 
edge with milk and pressing it to the 
bottom piece, fill the pie, put on the top 
crust, pinch the edges and trim neatly, 
leaving a hole in the middle, stamp out 
leaf shapes for a border with the remain- 
ing crust, put these over the top, brush 
with beaten egg; put a buttered paper on 
a baking pan, set the dish on this and 
place another buttered paper over the 
top and outside of the mold, bake in a 
slack oven three or four hours; pour some 
melted aspic jelly in the hole left in the 
middle, and serve when perfectly cold. 

739— PATE DE BECASSINES AU 
TRUFFLES. 

Prepare a mold of crust as directed in 
No. 73S, line the edges with liver paste 
made as directed in No. 721; fill the re- 
maining space with galantines No. 717, 
and proceed exactly as directed for cold 
raised pies. 

740— SANDWICHES. 
Sandwiches can be made with any kind 
of cold meat, fowl or poultry, caviares, 
cheese, and in fact everything that is 
good eaten cold. The standard sandwich 
is two thin slices of bread with a thin 
slice of meat, or something equivalent, 
between with the slices of bread of even 
size and thickness; the bread should be 
of close, uniform texture, the inner sur- 
face of bread spread with butter and 
mustard, and salt and pepper if suitable. 
If making cheese sandwiches, grate the 
cheese and use plain thin biscuit instead 
of bread. For sweet sandwiches use jel- 
lies or marmalades, selecting the variety 
according to your taste. Lettuce sand- 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



113 



■wiches are made by spreading the slices 
of bread with mayonnaise instead of but- 
ter, with a crisp leaf of lettuce between. 
When sandwiches are made for a party, 
picnic, or other social functions, pile the 
sandwiches as they are made, trim the 
edges and cut square across making tri- 
angular shapes, they should be of even 
size, piled up and covered with a dampened 
napkin. Delicious sandwiches are made 
of potted ham, quail, galantine and other 
cold dishes described in this book. French 
rolls made flat are very nice to make 
sandwiches for out-door parties, as they 
do not become dry so quickly. A recipe 
for sandwich rolls will be found in the 
Pastry Department of this book. 

741— SHRIMP SANDWICHES. 
Pound together a cup of shrimps, a 
seasoning of mayonnaise, a teaspoonful of 
anchovy paste, as much of lemon juice, 
and salt to taste. Cut very thin slices of 
brown bread, butter them lightly and 
spread the mixture on them ; press another 
slice on top and cut in finger lengths. 

742— SANDWICH AU CAVIARE. 

Take a spoonful of Russian caviare, add 
to it a teaspoonful of minced onion, a 
tablespoonful of butter and the juice of 
half a lemon; work these together to a 
paste, and spread on thin slices of bread, 
press them together and cut in shape. 

743— RIBBON SANDWICHES. 

See Artistic Department. 

744— OLIVE OIL. 

The olive oil which is used in the mak- 
ing of salad dressings should be as nearly 
tasteless as possible. Imported Italian 
oil is certainly the best if it has been 
properly kept. Large quantities of oil 
now come from California; it is very good 
and preferable to imitations made of cot- 
ton seed, which should be discarded. 
Olive oil has a slightly green tinge and a 
fruity flavor. Oil that has the least ran- 
cid taste should not be used as it will 
never give satisfaction, even with the ad- 
mixture of the best compound vinegar. 



745— HORS D'OEUVRES. 

(Appetizers). 

Cold side dishes; small things eaten as 
a preliminary to a good dinner; a French 
custom having for its object to create an 
appetite for something of a more substan- 
tial nature. Opinions are greatly divided 
on the subject and no standard of form 
can be laid in regard to the serving of the 
Hors d'Oeuvres. At many club dinners 
of social importance the author has seen 
Hors d'Oeuvres served after meals with 
the cheese. The Hors d'Oeuvres emi- 
nently American is probably a half dozen 
of delicious Blue Points served on the 
half shell with quarters of lemon, or small 
clams served in the same way. The list 
of Hors d'Oeuvres or appetizers is end- 
less; persons of ingenuity create these 
little things every day, so we will content 
ourselves with giving a list of the most 
popular and appropriate. 

746— SARDINES AU PARMESAN. 

Make narrow strips of thin buttered 
toast, grate Parmesan or Switzer cheese 
over and lay a sardine over each. 

747— PETITS CANAPES DE SAR- 
DINES. 

Split the sardines, lay them on pieces 
of fried bread cut in oblong pieces to fit 
the sardines; pour over this a sauce made 
of equal parts of oil, vinegar and prepar- 
ed mustard. 

748— CROUTES AU ANCHOIS. 
Make very small baking powder bis- 
cuits, not larger than a fifty cent piece^ 
bake them so they will not touch each 
other; slice off the top crust and scoop 
out the inside and fill them with a force- 
meat made of equal quantities of chopped 
lean ham, anchovies, gherkins and truf- 
fles, replace the top and cover with Re- 
moulade as directed in No. 660. 



749— BEURREES DE CAVIARE. 
Make thin slices of toast, cut in star or 
crescent shape; open a box of Russian 
caviare and warm in in a pan with a little 



114 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



butter, spread this on the toast and serve 
on a bed of watercress, or a leaf of crisp 
lettuce. 

750— TARTINES D'ANCHOIS. 
Make extremely thin Virginia beaten 
biscuit as directed elsewhere in this book 
and spread them with a paste made of 
equal amounts of anchovies, yolks of hard 
boiled eggs, nasturtium or capers, and 
parsley; garnish with small sprigs of pars- 
ley and radishes cut like blossoms. 

751— SARDINES A IvA CREOLE. 
Dip sardines in oyster cocktail catsup 
or rich tomato sauce high spiced; lay 
these on buttered toast, and garnish with 
heart shaped leaves of lettuce. 



752— STUFFED OLIVES. 
Stone the olives and stuff them with 
anchovies or sardines pounded to a paste. 
Fry small rounds of bread, spread these 
with mayonnaise, lay the stuffed olives on 
this and serve on a bed of shredded 
lettuce. 



753— ARLETS AU SAUCISSONS. 
Cut rounds of brown bread, spread 
them with fresh butter, then sprinkle 
with finely chopped onion, lay a thin 
slice of potted quail on top, dash of 
pepper sauce; garnish with parsley. 

754— PAPILLOTTES OF POTTED 
TONGUE. 

Make a paste of equal parts of Russian 
caviare, potted tongue and anchovies; 
butter very thin strips of bread and roll 
up some of the paste in it; spread a leaf of 
lettuce in an individual dish, then a bed 
of thinly sliced radishes, and lay two of 
the popillottes on top. 

755— CANTALOUPE WITH SALT. 

Another innovation is to serve canta- 
loupes cut in small squares, with salt and 
pepper. 



756— EGGS STUFFED WITH 
ANCHOVIES. 
Hard boiled eggs cut in halves, the 
yolks removed and pounded with an 
equal amount of anchovy paste, replaced 
in the whites, and served on thin slices of 
buttered bread; garnish as usual. 



^ 



757- 



SALAD D'AMANDES AU 
CAVIARE. 
Blanch a cupful of almonds and crush 
them slightly, add a can of Russian 
Caviare and as much of fine bread crumbs; 
mince the whole very fine, add a few 
drops of lemon juice and serve a spoonful 
on a crisp leaf of lettuce. 

758— CROUSTADES AU SALPICON. 
Make very tiny shells of rice as directed 
in No. 624; fill them with any kind of 
salpicon,a forcemeat highly seasoned with 
aromatic salt No. i and walnut catsup, 
fill the cases and serve them on a bed of 
watercress, lettuce or endive. 

759— FOIES GRAS DE POULETS. 

^ lb. of chicken livers. 

As much of calf's liver. 

The meat of one medium sized chicken. 

20 ozs. of salt pork. 

A teacupful of white bread crumbs 
steeped and squeezed dry. 

A small corned tongue. 

I can of truffles. 

3 raw yolks of eggs. 

A teacupful of Amontillado or good or- 
dinary sherry. 

Aromatic salt No. i for seasoning. 

Steep the livers in cold water about 
twelve hours; cut the fat pork in very 
small dice and melt it in a saucepan, add 
all the liver cut very small and the chicken 
meat; cook just enough to change the 
color of the liver through, put in the aro- 
matic salt and pound it to a paste in the 
mortar, and mix in the bread panada, the 
yolks of eggs, wine, and rub this paste 
through a sieve; a half cup of cooked 
corned beef fat cut into small dice, then 
the red tongue and truffles likewise, mix 
this in the paste. Cover the bottom of 
an earthen baking dish with thin slices of 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



ii5 



salt pork, then put in the liver paste with 
some more of the thin slices of pork on 
top; set the dish in another pan of water 
and cover with a buttered paper and bake 
about two hours, when cold dip the bak- 
ing dish in hot water, and turn it over so 
as to drop the liver paste in a nice loaf; 
scrape the fat and smooth it over with a 
hot knife; ornament it any wa)' suitable 
for galantines, as directed iu Part V. 

760— JAMBALAYA. 

2 small chickens. 

I cup of rice. 

I pint of thick stewed tomatoes. 

I large onion. 



% cup of butter. 

2 slices of ham. 

I minced red pepper. 

Salt. 

Cut each chicken into four portions, 
flatten these with a blow of the broad side 
of the cleaver, dredge -with salt and pep- 
per and fry them in butter a nice brown, 
\ keep hot in the open oven ; boil the rice in 
salted water fifteen minutes; fry the 
minced onion in a saucepan with a half 
cup of butter until it just turns yellow, 
put in the ham cut in large dice, then the 
tomatoes and rice previously drained, sea- 
son with the minced red pepper and salt, 
simmer till the rice is tender and the con- 
tents of the saucepan are thick enough 
for a spoon to stand in. 



r^t^t^t^t^t^ 













CHINESE, ENGLISH, FRENCH, 
GERMAN, GREEK, DUTCH, 


i 

Mi 

Si 




ITALL\N, ^ ^ ^ ^ JEWISH, 




c^ 






DISTINCTIVE 
NATIONAL ^ 
COOKERY^*^ 






6^ 






i 


JAPANESE, ^ ^ MEXICAN, 


1 




PORTUGUESE, ^ RUSSL\N, 


SCOTCH, SPANISH,TURKISH 









Distinctive National Cookery* 



761— CHINESE COOKERY. 

The Chinese method of cookery and 
restaurant keeping can be seen to better 
advantage in New York and San Fran- 
cisco than anywhere else outside of 
China. Food is cooked in a very pecu- 
liar manner; round bottom kettles made 
of very thin iron are used exclusively. 
The fire is on open brick furnaces with 
charcoal or dried kindling wood for fuel, 
and the cooking is done with astonishing 
rapidity. The food is cut in very small 
portions and combined with the intense 
heat of the furnace does startlingly quick 
cooking. 

Candied fruit, and other delicacies from 
Corea, Japan, Tonquin, and Manchooria 
can be bought at fancy groceries, and 
these are about all the Chinese edibles 
that deserve mention. 

762— PERFUMED PORK. 

(Chinese.) 
Perfumed roast pork is one of the dain- 
tiest Chinese dishes; the pork is roasted 
in the usual manner, then hung in the 
smoke of various aromatic herbs which 
Cfives it a quaint, delicious flavor; it is cut 
in small pieces and served with a border 
of shredded candied ginger. 

763— ENGLISH AND FRENCH 
COOKERY. 

No distinctive national dish of France 
and England will be given in this depart- 
ment, for the book is almost completely 
made of recipes of both these countries. 
Plum pudding, roast beef, Yorkshire 
pudding, roasted hare, mutton in differ- 
ent styles, etc., etc., will all be found in 
other parts of this book. See index. 

764— BEER SOUP. 
(German.) 
Stir together in a saucepan a % lb. each 



of flour and butter, add gradually two 
qiiarts of lager, and when this is all in and 
smooth let it boil slowly on the side of 
the range a half hour. Put in a small 
saucepan 

Yz pint of white wine. 

I gill of rum. 

A small piece of ginger root. 

A small pinch of thyme and savory. 

5 ozs. of granulated sugar. 

Let this come to the boiling point 
without boiling, skim the fat from the top 
of the soup, thicken it with ten yolks of 
eggs mixed with a little cold water; strain 
the contents of the small sauce pan into 
the soup and serve with a slice of toast in 
each plate. 

765-CHERRY SOUP. 

(German.) 
Stone two pounds of sour cherries; put 
two-thirds of this in a saucepan with one 
and a half quarts of hot water, a few 
sticks of cinnamon and a grated lemon 
rind; boil fifteen minutes and thicken 
with two tablespoon fuls of corn starch 
mixed with a little cold water, let boil 
slowly ten minutes more, then rub through 
a fine sieve; put in the rest of the cher- 
ries, season with salt and a tablespoonful 
of sugar. Make an infusion of a teacup- 
ful of red wine and a basting spoonful of 
crushed cherry stones, strain this infusion 
iwto the soup, let it cook five minutes 
longer; and serve with finger biscuits. 

766— BOAR'S HEAD, HAMBURGH 
STYLE. 

(Dutch.) 
Scald and scrape a boar's head, boil it 
an hour, take it out and cool sufficiently 
to handle, wrap it up in a cloth, then boil 
it in a pickle made of equal quantities of 
water and vinegar; when cold remove the 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



cloth and wrap it up again with bands 
giving it as much as possible its natural 
form; when cold fill up any defects with 
butter and glaze it in the usual waj'; set 
it in a dish surrounded with cubes of aspic 
jelly of different colors, cut flowers and 
parsley. Have on the side- in a gravy 
dish a cold sauce made with a pint of 
gooseberry jelly, a teaspoonful of dry 
mustard, a basting spoonful of vinegar, a 
dust of cayenne, and the grated rind of 
an orange, beat this together until it is 
ready to serve. 

767-SAUER KRAUT SALAD. 

(German.) 

Wash the sauer kraut in cold water. 
drain it well, and season it with a dressing 
made of two parts of vinegar, one of oil, 
salt and pepper to taste. 

768— SOUP AGNELOTTI. 

(Italian.) 

Make two quarts of Cream of Chicken 
as directed in No. 38; mince yi ft>. of 
picked chicken meat with ^ lb. of bread 
panada, mix in one egg, season with salt 
and nutmeg and rub through a sieve. 
Roll out a sheet of puff paste, cut it in 
small squares, put in a spoonful of the 
forcemeat, fold it over, pinch the edges; 
poach in salted boiling water; they will 
be done in ten minutes; drain them, and 
serve one or two in each plate of soup. 

769— SOUP AU PARMESAN. 

(Italian.) 

Take about }^ lb. of flour and % lb. of 
grated Parmesan cheese, a pinch of salt, 
a grating of nutmeg and four whole eggs, 
mix all together thoroughly, then thin it 
down with three basting spoonfuls of 
cream. Have ready on the range the 
soup kettle containing two quarts of good 
clear consomme; hold the colander over 
this and put in the cheese paste, stir so it 
will fall in the boiling broth and let cook 
slightly about fifteen minutes. 

770— JNOQUIS. 

(Italian.) 

X lb. of flour. 



li lb. of cornstarch. 

8 yolks of eggs. 

2 whole eggs. 

Stir this together and thin it down with 
I pint of milk; strain through a fine sieve 
into a sauce pan, add ^ lb. of fresh but- 
ter and season with salt, nutmeg and a 
teaspoonful of sugar. Stir the contents 
of the saucepan over a moderate fire and 
let it cook seven or eight minutes, take it 
off and mix in three basting spoonfuls of 
grated Parmesan cheese; pour this on a 
buttered platter so that it will be about 
half an inch thick, let it cool, then cut 
out in round shapes about the size of a 
twenty-five cent piece; put in layers in a 
baking dish, sprinkle every layer with 
grated Parmesan cheese and moisten with 
melted butter, bake in a hot oven ten 
minutes; should be served on the dish it 
is baked in. 

77I-RAVIOLES. 

(Italian). 

14 ozs. of flour. 

5 eggs. 

% cupful of minced chicken. 

As much of minced cooked ham. 

2 raw yolks of eggs. 

I lobe of calf's brain cooked. 

A basting spoonful of grated Parmesan 
cheese. 

Nutmeg. 

Make a dough of the flour and five 
eggs and two tablespoonfuls of warm 
water; let this stand a few minutes and 
make a forcemeat with the chicken, ham, 
the cooked brain, tw® yolks of eggs and 
the grated cheese, season with a little 
salt and a grating of nutmeg. Take half 
of the dough and roll it out very thin, 
cut the edges so as to form a perfect 
square; place small balls of the forcemeat 
in straight lines over the dough leaving a 
space of two inches between each line; 
brush the dough that is exposed between 
the lines of forcemeat balls with water; 
roll out the other half of the dough and 
spread this over the other; trim the edges 
and press them together with a roller 
and cut with a sharp knife between all 
the lines of forcemeat, so as to make 
small squares, each containing a ball of 
forcemeat, press the edges of each and 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



I2E 



boiling water: serve on platters with a 
generous sprinkling of grated Parmesan 
cheese between each layer, and thick to- 
mato sauce poured over and around the 
Ravioles. 

772— RISOT. 

(Italian). 

Wash carefully a pint of rice; mince a 
small onion and ivy it in a saucepan with 
a small piece of butter, then put in one 
and a half quarts of broth, add a laurel 
leaf, and boil gently without covering. 
When the broth is almost evaporated 
take the saucepan from the range and 
mix in one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
minced red pepper, r cup of tomato 
sauce, 6 ozs. of butter and the same of 
grated Parmesan cheese. Put the lid 
on the saucepan and let it simmer five 
minutes; serve very hot. 

773— POULEINTE. 

(Italian). 

Put a quart of water and a half tea- 
spoonful of salt in a saucepan; when this 
is boiling add two ounces of com meal, 
stirring constantly to avoid any lumps, 
and let cook gently twenty minutes; take 
it off the fire, pour a thin layer in the 
dish in which it will be served, cover this 
over with grated Parmesan cheese, moist- 1 
en with a few spoonfuls of good con- 
somme, and a few spoonfuls of tomato 
sauce, repeat this until the dish is full, 
having a layer of grated cheese and to- 
mato sauce on top. 

774— CODFISH FRIED IN OLIVE OIL. 

(Italian). 
One pound of fresh codfish cut in small 
squares, fry lightly in olive oil, drain and 
put them in a saucepan with just enough 
tomato sauce to come up level, and let it 
boil a few minutes; put it on the side of 
the range and let simmer ten minutes 
more; season with pepper and salt; ser\^e 
hot. 

775-CROQUETTES PIEMONTAISE. 

(Italian). 

Boil % lb. of rice in good soup stock 
twenty minutes, drain off the stock and 



let it cook dry at the back of the range; 
when done mix in i basting spoonful of 
grated Parmesan cheese and stir on the 
fire until it is a smooth paste; take off and 
while it is getting cold make ready a 
forcemeat of equal parts of calves' or 
fowls' livers, cooked ham and mush- 
rooms; moisten with a little brown gravy 
or Espagnole sauce, make very small 
rolls of the forcemeat and take a little of 
the rice preparation, make these into 
croquettes with the forcemeat balls in 
the middle; give this a single breading 
and fry in hissing hot lard. Serve with 
remoulade or green peas stewed in but- 
ter. 

776— CHICKEN, A LA SICILIENNE. 

(Italian), 

Singe and draw a good, plump chicken 
mince >^tb of calves' liver: fry it in a 
saucepan with a little butter; season with 
a teaspoonful of aromatic salt No. i; as 
soon as it has changed color take it off 
and mix viith an equal volume of bread 
panada, two whole eggs and a tablespoon- 
ful of minced parsley; stuff the chicken, 
sew it up, tie the legs together and put 
it in a saucepan with 

% cupful of scraps of salt pork. 

2 minced onions. 

% dozen cloves of garlic. 

4 cut up tomatoes. 

Put the stuffed chicken on this and 
enough stock to come over the legs of 
the chicken ; cook with the steam shut in 
until tender; take out the chicken, remove 
the twine, strain and skim the gravy, 
thicken it with a little browned flour, lay 
the chicken on the platter with the 
thick sauce poured over so as to glaze it 
evenly. Garnish the edges of the plat- 
ter with fried mushrooms and sprigs of 
parsley. 

777— POLENTA. 

(Italian). 

A pint of water. 

3 ozs. of coarse corn meal. 

2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 

% tb. of grated cheese. 

yz teaspoonful of salt and pepper mixed. 

A teacupful of cracker meal. 

Put a little melted butter in a saucepan; 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



make a mush with the water and corn 
meal in the usual way, let it cook at the 
back of the range an hour and a half, and 
stir in one basting spoonful of melted but- 
ter, the pepper and salt. Put the other 
basting spoonful of butter in an earthen 
baking dish, sift half of the cracker meal 
on that, put in the mush by spoonfuls 
and smooth over without disturbing the 
cracker dust in the bottom, then strew the 
grated cheese over, sift the rest of the 
cracker meal on top and bake in a brisk 
oven about thirty minutes. Makes a nice 
lunch dish when baked in paper cases. 

778— RICE AND CABBAGE SOUP. 

(Italian). 

Mince the inside of two small summer 
cabbages, put them in a saucepan with 
X K*- of minced salt pork and a clove of 
garlic, put in the saucepan two quarts of 
warm water or stock, let it boil gently 
for thirty-five to forty minutes, then sea- 
son with salt and pepper, put in a quarter 
pound of rice previously cleaned and 
washed in three waters, cook half an 
hour longer, and serve with grated cheese 
on top. 

779— RICE AND RADISH SOUP. 

(Italian). 

Slice a pint of radishes— the black rad- 
ish is preferable— add to this X ^- oi 
minced salt pork, season with salt and 
pepper and cover with two quarts of light 
stock; boil moderately until the radishes 
are cooked then add one teacup of rice 
and cook a half hour longer; serve with 
grated cheese on top. 

780-CALF'S LIVER, PRINCE 
PALERMO. 

(Italian). 

Put in a saucepan : 

3 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. 

As much of finely minced onion. 

3 cloves of crushed garlic. 

A leaf of laurel. 

Fry these a light color, then put in 
twice the volume of the contents of the 
saucepan of fresh minced cepes or mush- 
rooms, .simmer gently until tlie mixture 



begins to fry, then put in a cup of brown 
gravy and half cup of sherry; stir the 
contents over a hot fire five minutes then 
set it on the side of the range. Cut ^ 
lb. of calves' liver in thin slices, fry these 
quickly in a little butter, season with salt 
and pepper. As soon as it is done, drain 
and put it in the saucepan, let come to a 
boil once, take out the laurel leaf, 
sprinkle with parsley dust, add the juice 
of half a lemon and serve. 

78J— ASPARAGUS WITH PAR- 
MESAN. 
(Italian. ) 
Cook the asparagus in salted water as 
directed elsewhere in this book; when 
done, drain t-ery carefully, cut the stems 
and put a layer of tips on a platter, sprin- 
kle plentifulh' with grated Parmesan 
cheese and alternate with asparagus and 
cheese until all the asparagus you have is 
on the platter. Melt some butter in a 
frying pan and let it slightly brown on 
the fire, pour this over the asparagus in 
the platter and serve ver}' hot with .shapes 
or croutons for garnish. 

782— TSIRAS. 

( Greek Appetizer ) . 

2 dozen anchovies. 
4 dozen pitted olives. 
2 bunches of parsley. 

1 basting spoonful of olive oil. 

2 basting spoonfuls of lemon juice. 

Mince the olives, put half of the an- 
chovies on a small platter, then half of 
the minced olives, the rest of the ancho- 
vies and olives; cut the parsley very 
coarse and strew it on top; mix the oil 
and lemon juice and pour it over. 

783— CRYSTALLIZED ROSE LEAVES. 

(Greek). 

X lbs. of fresh rose leaves. 

I X ^s. of loaf sugar. 

I gill of water. 

Dissolve i}{ lbs. of sugar with the wa- 
ter, boil and skim, keep hot at the side 
of the range; parb®il the rose leaves, 
drain them carefully, put them in the 
syrup and boil ten minutes; make a thick 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



123 



syrup of the rest of the sugar with a bast- 
ing spoonful of water; drain the rose 
leaves on a sieve, put them in the syrup 
and stir until it granulates; take up and 
dry on wax paper. 



784-JAPANESE COOKERY. 

Before the advent of foreigners into 
j apan the natives were not in the habit of 
eating animal flesh; their sustenance was 
mainly drawn, as it is now, from vege- 
tables and fish — rice and sweet potatoes 
forming the principal part of their diet. 
They also consumed a good deal of bar- 
ley, green corn, fruit of different kinds, 
and persimmons; this native fruit is now 
making its appearance all over the world, 
especially in California; it has much the 
apearance of tomatoes, but cannot like 
the latter be picked green; if picked be- 
fore it is perfectly ripe it has a strongly 
disagreeable flavor; however it is shipped 
in small quantities in a dry state, and 
this has a very pleasant taste. The na- 
tional dishes of Japan are composed of 
.articles so difficult to obtain that we must 
limit the number of recipes, knowing that 
a greater number given would be imprac- 
ticable and unnecessary. 

785-HACHIMONO. 

(Japanese.) 

2 fbs. of salmon cut in smiall blocks. 

T bottle of Indian soy. 

I small lobster. 

A green cucumber. 

Stew the pieces of salmon in the soy 
mixed with its equal volume of water; 
when done tender put these in a platter 
with some of the liquor in which it was 
boiled. Pick the lobster meat in small 
pieces and shred the cucumber verj- fine, 
lengthwise, mix with the lobster and put 
spoonfuls all around the pieces of salmon. 



^ 



786— JAPANESE SALAD. 

Boil a half dozen large potatoes in 

broth seasoned with a bunch of aromatic 

herbs and a tablespoonful of Indian soy; 

drain and slice them, and while they are 



still warm dredge with salt and pepper 
and two basting spoonfuls of the best 
olive oil and half as much of vinegar; 
put in half a teacupful of white wane, 
half a cupful of aromatic herbs cut very 
fine (parslej', ciboul, savory and fennel). 
Steam a pint of mussels, pull out the 
beard and take out of the shell, and stew 
them with two stalks of celery; drain 
them carefully and mix in with the pota- 
toes and other ingredients. Cook a half 
can of black truflles, take them out with 
a fork from the seasoned broth and drop 
in a glass of champagne; when they are 
cool .slice them and serve on the top of 
the salad. Shrimps may be used instead 
of mussels, but the genuine recipe calls 
for mussels. 



^ 



787— CROSNES, 

(Japanese). 

Crosnes is a vegetable resembling the 
Jerusalem artichoke; boil it in salted wa- 
ter until tender, drain carefully and serve 
with a sauce made of equal quantities of 
pounded shrimps and Indi^'.n soy. 

788— JEWISH COOKERY. 

Distinctive national dishes of the Jews 
are very few, and the only time they be- 
come noticeable is during the Passover 
feast — a great feast held by the Jews all 
over the world to commemorate their de- 
liverance from Egypt. It occurs some- 
time in spring before the Christian 
easter. The law of Moses forbids them 
any work during these days. The ortho- 
dox Jews observe this rigorously, but the 
so called reformed Jews observe only the 
first and last days. During the Passover 
all Jews abstain from leavened bread — 
even pastry containing flour is not par- 
taken of — but a very fine and palatable 
potato meal is substituted. They also 
abstain from any spirituous liquor dis- 
tilled from grains or malt. While the 
Jews do not really excel in cookery, per- 
haps on account of the restrictions in the 
use of material, credit must be given them 
for the essentially wholesome character of 
their cookery, which has led many .stu- 
dents of Jewish history to believe that the 



124 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



laws imposed by Moses, which seem so 
particularly stringent, were evidently 
drawn to prevent diseases among the 
Israelites. The fast itself seems to par- 
take as much of the nature of a feast as of 
a fast. It resembles a good deal the fast 
observed by Christians previous to the 
feast of Easter, although the restrictions 
in the case of unleavened bread and pastr>' 
containing flour is really the only check 
to a perfect feast. On the eve of the 
Passover the Jews hold religious services; 
as soon as these cease there begins a great 
feast, and these days are looked at by 
Jews more like a time of rejoicing than a 
time of penitence, for the author has 
many times eaten during the Passover 
period at Jewish tables that were laden 
with the most expensive delicacies that 
their religion would allow them. During 
the time of these feasts all are equal in 
the Jewish household; servants and em- 
ployes, rich and poor, all sit at the same 
table and partake of the same fare. This 
is to remind them that before their de- 
liverance from Egypt by Moses they were 
all slaves and equals. There are many 
curious obser\'ances which are strictly 
kept by the Jews, one of the most peculiar 
being a dish containing a shank of lamb 
and a root of horseradish with the top on, 
a bunch of chervil and mustard, cinna- 
mon, raisins and almonds pounded to- 
gether to a paste or mortar. The shank 
of lamb symbolizes the Passover lamb; 
the bitter herbs recall the hardships 
and bitterness to which the Jews 
were subjected during their sojourn in 
Egypt; the almond paste represents the 
mortar which the Israelites used in 
making bricks for the Pharaohs. As the 
meat must be thoroughly cleansed and 
healthy the Jews employed a butcher, 
called a "Sochet." The meats which the 
"Sochet" kills and brands with his seal 
is called "Kosher" meat. If the animal 
which has been killed has the slightest 
blemish or bruise, even if it does not af- 
fect the good qualities of the meat, the 
seal of the "Sochet" is withheld and the 
supposed unclean article is consumed by 
Gentiles. Pork is forbidden to the Jews. 
Many of the events of the last ten years 
have amply proven the sanitary benefit 
derived from such a law. 



789-SOUP WITH MOTSA. 

(Jewish). 

Make a beef broth or soup with a shin 
of beef and calf's feet. 

Pieces of turnip, carrot and celery. 

An onion fried in a piece of butter. 

A pinch of aromatic herbs. 

Pepper, salt. 

Let this simmer six or seven hours, 
strain and skim the fat very carefully, 
and make quenelles of: 

8 ozs. of crushed motsa (Passover cake). 

A basting spoonful of minced suet. 

3 eggs. 

Seasoning of salt, pepper and giuger. 

Work these together by pounding to a 
paste ; make small balls size of hazelnuts 
and poach them in some of the soup 
in a saucepan at the side of the range; 
serve three or four to each plate of soup. 

790— FISH BREADED WITH MOTSA. 

Salmon, halibut, cod or lake trout; cut 
into portions, drop the fish in beaten eggs 
then coat it with crushed motsa in which 
you have mixed a little salt and pepper; 
fr}- in olive oil and when cold serve on a 
bed of parsley. 

79J— MOTSA PUDDING. 

One pound of Passover cake or motsa, 
soaked in water as you would bread pana- 
da, squeeze and make up into a pudding 
with 

Half pound each of raisins, currants 
and figs. 

^ lb. of suet. 

J^ lb. of sugar. 

4 eggs. 

A tablespoonful of allspice. 

Put in a pudding bag and boil three 
and a half hours. Serve with a sauce 
made with a pint of water, one-half pound 
of sugar, and strongly flavor with cinna- 
mon sticks. 

792— PASSOVER CAKE— MOTSA. 

The Passover cake is made unleavened 
by working the flour, water and salt to a 
smooth dough, rolled out thin and baked 
to crispness. Extraordinary precautions 
are taken in the selection of the flour, 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



125 



this selection being naade by the author- 
ity, or Rabbi, of diflEerent synagogues. I 
shall not endeavor to give any further 
information , thinking it sufficient to men- 
tion only the principal features concern- 
ing its preparation. 

793— MEXICAN FORTILLAS. 

Mix a quart of fine corn meal with just 
enough water to barely moisten it, add 
enough water to make a thin mush, put 
in a teaspoonful of salt and drop large 
spoonfuls of the mixture on the hot grid- 
dle, spreading with the back of a spoon 
to form thin cakes. Although the origi- 
nal recipe does not call for shortening, it 
will be better if a little is used. 

794— BARSCH. 

(Polish.) 
2 lbs. of brisket of beef cut in square 
pieces. 

1 flb. of salt pork. 

1 duck previously parboiled a few min- 
utes to destroy the strong flavor. 

Put in enough clear beet juice and wa- 
ter mixed in equal quantities to come up 
level to the meats. (To obtain clear beet 
juice, peel beets as you would potatoes, 
grate or crush them and put in the jar 
enough tepid w-ater to just cover and leave 
this to ferment until the liquor is clear, 
then strain carefully.) Boil moderately 
and skim all that rises ; when it has boiled 
for three-fourths of an hour put it on the 
side of the range and add 

2 small onions. 
2 leeks. 

The roots of two heads of celery. 

A tablespoonful of salt. 

12 cloves. 

Simmer two hours, then add three 
smoked sausages (imported Frankforts 
preferred). Take the meats out as they 
are cooked; when all are done strain the 
liquor that is left, let it remain on the ta- 
ble until the fat rises, skim off; add two 
whites of eggs beaten in a cup of water, 
and clarify in the usual way. Cut the 
duck meat in small dice, put this in the 
bottom of a deep dish with the sausages 
also cut in pieces, half of the salt pork 
also cut in pieces and the brisket of beef 



on top; add a cupful of minced pickled 
beets and a cupful of mushrooms warmed 
in butter; strain the broth over this and 
serve. 

795— POLISH CAKE. 

A pound loaf of nice white cake. 

3 cups of pastry cream. 

A basting spoonful of brandy. 

The whites of six eggs. 

Cut the biscuit in slices half an inch 
thick, spread them with pastry cream to 
which you have added the brand)', put 
them back in the same order they were 
cut, spread the pastry cream over the top 
and sides, whip the eggs until they fly 
from the whisk, add a basting spoonful 
of sugar, a pinch of cream of tartar, whip 
a moment longer and spread all over the 
cake, dry in a slack oven fifteen to twenty 
minutes, but do not give it more than a 
straw color. 

796— KWAS KWAS. 

(Polish). 

5 lbs. of barley, crushed. 

5 lbs. of wheat. 

5 lbs. of rice. 

Put these in a keg with enough luke- 
warm water to cover and let it stand 
twelve hours; when the water is all ab- 
sorbed by the cereals add 7 lbs. of rye 
flour and thin down to the consistency of 
thick cream with lukewarm water; fill 
earthen jars with this mixture and bake 
in a slack oven all night, then pour the 
contents of the jars in a keg and add 
twenty quarts of cold water; let it remain 
thus twenty-four hours, then pour off 
carefully without disturbing the settlings, 
into another keg, mix in three cakes of 
compressed yeast dissolved in a quart of 
white wine; let it remain seven hours, 
then decant into another receptacle and 
bottle; tie the corks like you would gin- 
ger-pop and let it remain in the cellar 
ten days. 

797-CIERNIKI. 

(Polish). 
Rub through a fine sieve >^ lb. of Neuf- 
chatel cheese; press it so as to get out all 
the moisture possible, put it in the mix- 
ing bowl, add ]i lb. of melted butter, 



126 



PRACTICAI, AND ART [STIC COOKERY. 



7 ozs of flour, salt, pepper and iiutineg, 
stir ill six eggs one at a time, and half a 
cup of cream, and when this mixture is 
ready it should have about the consisten- 1 
cy of cream puff paste or dough. Flour ' 
the paslrj- board and drop spoonfuls of 
the mixture on this, roll them up in balls 
with the floured hands and poach them 
in boiling salted water; drain and put 
them in layers in a small deep dish, 
spreading a layer half an inch thick of 
grated Parmesan cheese over each layer; 
moisten the whole with butter, melted in 
a pan until it has changed to a light 
brown color. 

798-NALENIKIS. 

(Polish). 

Have ready a Neufchatel cheese mix- 
ture as directed for cierniki; make small 
portions and roll them up in very thin 
slices of bacon, dip these in frying batter 
and fry them in hot lard; when they are 
a nice brown color drain them and serve 
on a bed of finely chopped celery. 

799— RABBIT WITH SAUER 
KRAUT. 

(Poli.sh.) 
Mince two pounds of sauer kraut, i lb. 
of salt pork sliced; roast the rabbit and 
cut it in very thin slices; put in the .saner 
kraut a basting spoonful of melted butter 
and three of goose fat; put half of the 
sauer kraut in a baking dish, on this lay 
the slices of salt pork, the liquor from the 
pan in which the rabbits were roasted and 
the pieces of rabbit, cover them up with 
the remaining pieces of salt pork and the 
sauer kraut; bake in a very slack oven 
about twenty-five minutes; serve in the 
dish it was baked in. 

800-POLISH SCRASIS. 

Mince i lb. of lean raw beef, remove 
all the gristle and mix in % lb. of minced 
suet, one medium sized onion minced, one 
clove of garlic, salt and pepper; mix these 
thoroughly, make into balls, roll these iu 
cracker dust and put them in a saucepan, 
with just enough water to prevent 
scorching, cook half an hour with the lid 



on; cut raw potatoes into cubes, put these 
in and let boil half an hour more; serve 
verv hot 



801 -SCRASIS AU KASCHE. 

(Polish.) 
Cook /+ lb. of kasche (rolled buck- 
wheat) in salted water, when done drain 
and mash it with a basting spoonful of 
minced onion; warm this in a saucepan 
with a little butter, then let it cool; mince 
finely i tb. of lean beef, season with salt 
and pepper; take portions the size of an 
egg and roll them out thin in regular 
shapes about three inches in length and 
two in width, spread on these a layer of 
the cold kasche, roll up and tie with a 
piece of thread, put them in a small bak- 
ing dish closely pressed, put in a little 
stock, cover with a buttered paper and 
cook iu a slow oven three-fourths of an 
hour with frequent bastings; cut off the 
threads, and serve with a thick gravy 
made in the pan in which they were 
cooked; garnish in the usual way. 



802— BOUILLON DE LISBON, 

( Portuguese ) . 

2 lbs. of smoked ham, boil it an hour, 
throw away the water that it has boiled 
in, and fill up the kettle with boiling 
water, then put in a nice fowl and boil 
slowly until all is very tender; as soon as 
one or the other of the meats is done, 
strain, skim the fat and serve with toasted 
crackers. Keep the meat for entrees. 

803 -RUSSIAN COOKERY. 
Russians consume more soups than the 
three other largest nations of the world 
combined; thej' seem to make soup out 
of every article that can be used as food 
by civilized people. Among their most 
favorite the Vesiga and Rossoluick soups 
should be mentioned. The first named con- 
tains a substance of a gelatinous nature 
that envelopes the backbone of the stur- 
geon ; it can be bought in the dry state and 
resembles isinglass. Among the follow- 
ing recipes will be found details for the 
preparation of this soup. Russian cook- 
ery has become a fad in Paris since the 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



127 



late visit of the czar, and the ratification 
of the Russian-PVanco treaty. This fad 
has partially extended to England and 
indirectly to America. Many Russian 
dishes deserve a good deal of attention. 

J* 

804-VEAL COTELETTES. 

(Russian). 

Take ten veal chops, trim and scrape 
the bone, dredge with salt and pepper 
and roll them in flour, fry them in butter, 
turn them over several times until they 
are a nice brown; when done put in just 
enough stock to come up level. When 
ready to serve, take out the chops, .slip a 
cuff on each bone, season and thicken 
the gravy and put in a cupful of minced 
green gherkins, serve a spoonful with 
every chop. 



805— WATROUSCHKISIS. 

Wrap in a clean cheese cloth 12 ozs. of 
cream cheese, put a weight on it and let 
stand five hours, then pound it in a mor- 
tar with 'X lb. of butter, season with salt 
and nutmeg; put the mixture in a bowl, 
add one whole egg and five yolks, mix 
smooth with a spoon. Roll out a thin sheet 
of puff paste, cut in round shapes with a 
biscuit cutter, put a .spoonful of the 
cheese mixture in the middle, gather the 
edges, pinching at regular intervals form- 
ing a kind of tartelete; touch the edges 
of the puff pa.ste with a brush dipped in 
beaten eggs and bake ten minutes in a 
quick oveu. 

806— VESICA SOUP. 

(Russian.) 
For two quarts of clear consomme use 
one pint of vesiga which has soaked in 
water three hours, then boil it in light 
stock until quite tender, cut it into pieces 
a half inch long, put it in the consomme 
with the addition of one pint of fancy 
shapes of carrot and turnip. 

807-ROSSOLNICK. 

(Russian.) 
Cut six large salted cucumbers into 
lozenge size, boil them in water until 



they are tender. Boil in a separate sauce- 
pan a cupful of parsley root and as much 
of celery cut in pieces. Prepare three 
quarts of chicken broth and when ready 
put in the cucumbers, parsley root, celery 
and a cut-up chicken. Thicken with 
eight yolks of eggs and add a cupful of 
rich cream; season to taste and serve very 
hot. 

Jit 

808-ZULUSKA. 
(Russia»i Ilors d'Oeuvres. ) 
Consi.sts of caviare, herrings, anchovies, 
smoked goo.se, sausage and cheese. The 
goose is pickled like corn beef, then 
smoked like ham. These delicacies are 
con.sidered essential to a good dinner in 
Russia and are generally accompanied by 
a glass of Vodka, which is a kind of cor- 
dial somewhat resembling Kummel. 

809-TOURTE OF SALMON. 

(Russian.) 
Make a forcemeat of whitefish as di- 
rected elsewhere in this book; cut a pound 
of salmon in thin slices, flatten them a 
little with the broad side of the cleaver; 
sea.son with salt and pepper and fry them 
in butter. Roll out a thin sheet of short 
paste, cover the bottom of a baking dish, 
then put in a layer of the whitefish force- 
meat and arrange the fried slices of sal- 
mon on top; put mussels, oysters, or 
shrimps between the slices or fillets of sal- 
mon; spread over this a layer of the white- 
fish forcemeat; cover with a sheet of short 
paste, crimp the edges, cut a small hole 
in the center, brush over with milk and 
bake three hours with a greased paper 
over the top; when done let it partly cool 
then take it out from the baking dish, 
place on a platter, surround it with water- 
cress, and pour a cup of cream sauce in 
the hole in the center. 

8I0-SAUCISSES DE BARCELONA. 

(Spanish). 

Mince very fine two pounds of fresh 
lean pork, two-thirds as much of salt 
pork, season with three cloves of garlic 
and aromatic salt No. 2 and a minced red 
pepper, moisten the mixture with wine 



128 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



and water. Clean thoroughly intestines 
of pig and fill them plump, give a twist 
at every four inches, so as to make the 
sausage of even length, dry them in the 
open air twenty-four hours, then hang 
three days in corn col> smoke. 



8JI-PUCHERO. 

(Spanish). 

Put in a saucepan: 

2% lbs. of brisket of beef. 

2 ears of pig carefully cleaned. 

A slice of raw ham. 

A cu])ful of lentils previou.sly steeped 
twelve hours in Cf)ld water. 

5 quarts of cold water. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

Put on to boil over a moderate fire and 
skim off all that rises, then boil on the 
side of the range very slowly, with the 
steam shut in, two hours, then add a 
sprig of fennel, a sprig of mint, one leek, 
a large slice of summer squash, a small 
head of cabbage; boil an hour longer, 
then add a summer sausage, called "Cer- 
velat," directions for its making given 
elsewhere in this book; a sausage strongly 
flavored with red pepper and called 
"Choreso" is generally used instead; let 
boil slowly until all the contents are ten- 
der, then drain out the liquor carefully, 
strain and skim; put this in a soup kettle, 
add to it a cut up leek and lettuce and 
enough stock to make 5 pints, and addi- 
tional seasoning if necessary; serve in 
shallow bowls with slices of toast; serve 
the meats on a platter with the vegetables 
neatly arranged all around. 



8J2— MILK AND ALMOND SOUP. 

(Spanish). 

Crush one pound of blanched almonds, 
mix these with two quarts of milk and 
rub tlirough a fine sieve, put this in a 
stone jar and add a teaspoonful of sugar 
and a stick of cinnamon, let it boil five 
minutes then add slices of toast, put the 
cover on and let simmer ten minutes 
longer, take out the stick of cinnamon 
and serve a slice of the toast with some 
of the soup. 



813— GASPASCHIO. 

(vSpani.sh). 
Mince very fine a large onion, half of a 
red pepper, two cloves of garlic, add to 
this a basting spoonful each of oil and 
vinegar and a cupful of cold water, put 
into a granite pan, season with salt, and 
add two large cucumbers cut in dice, cook 
a few minutes then put in enough white 
bread crumbs to make a thick paste; pour 
this on a platter and let it get cold; cut 
in finger lengths and .serve on a bed of 
lettuce. 



8J4— ALMONDIGILLAS. 

(Spanish.) 
Take 3| ft), of lean beef, cut out the 
gristle, mince it very fine, mince half as 
much of fresh fat pork, mix both together 
and chop it in a bowl, season with salt, 
pepper and minced parsley, and a clove of 
garlic, moisten with three whole eggs, 
divide tlie mixture in portions the size of 
an egg, roll them compactly with floured 
hands, dip them in beaten eggs, then in 
cracker dust, fry in hot lard, drain and 
put them in a baking pan, with enough 
tomato sauce to come up level, let them 
bake slowly in the bottom of the open 
oven a half hour; serve two of them to an 
order with a spoonful of tomato sauce. 

8 J5— GREEN SAUCE. 
(Spanish.) 
Soak 2 oz. of bread in water, squeeze 
dry; pound a sprig of parsley with six 
anchovies, a tablespoonful of minced on- 
ions, and three small green gherkins; 
when this is all pounded smooth, mix it 
with the bread panada and stir smooth; 
add equal quantities of olive oil and vine- 
gar to make a thick sauce, rub it through 
a sieve, and serve with salted or plain boiled 
beef, fish, etc. 



8J6-ESCABESC1A OF PARTRIDGE. 

(Spanish.) 

Take three young partridges, draw and 

clean them carefully; warm in a frying 

pan a cupful of olive oil and two cloves of 

crushed garlic, then put in the partridges 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



139 



and fry them lightly; when they are bare- 
ly colored put them in a saucepan and 
add the oil from the frying pan, one 
minced canot, as much of onion, a bunch 
of thyme, two leaves of laurel, salt and 
pepper; cook them ten minutes then 
moisten with vinej^ar and light stock 
mixed in equal quantities, cook two or 
three minutes longer then put in enough 
vinegar and stock to just cover the par- 
tridges, boil them in this liquor about 
fifteen minutes, then take off and cool. 
Serve with green sauce made as directed 
in the preceding recipe. 

8J7— MANTECADOS. 

(Spanish. ) 

Put in a mixing bowl ^ lb. of good, 
home rendered lard, and as much of pow- 
dered sugar; cream this and add 

X teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon. 

6 yolks of eggs. 

3 tablespoonfuls of pulverized sesame. 

Mix in 12 ozs. of flour. 

Divide this in portions the size of a wal- 
nut, roll in balls with floured hands and 
put them on buttered paper as you would 
macaroons, bake these in a slack oven 
about half an hour — should simply bake 
dry, hardly changing color. 



818— SCOTCH HAGGIS. 

The stomach, heart, liver and lungs of 
a sheep; wash the stomach carefully and 
let it soak several hours in salted ice-wa- 
ter, turn it inside out, scald it in boiling 
water and scrape it; this must be done 
quickly; when scraped clean let it remain 
in water until wanted; pierce the heart 
and liver in several places so the blood 
will run out; wash the pluck and put it on 
to boil, the windpipe hanging out of the 
kettle so that any impurities may come 
out, after this has boiled an hour put in 
fresh water with the liver and heart and 
boil an hour and a half more. Mince the 
best part of the heart and lungs, leaving 
out the gristly parts; grate the liver, add 
one half-pound of beef suet finely minced, 
one onion also finely minced and one- 
half pound of oat meal toasted in the 
oven ; season with salt and pepper, moisten 
with a cup of brown gravy. Mix thorough- 



ly and fill the clean stomach bag; it must 
not be quite full to allow for the swelling 
of the ingredients, also the contraction of 
the bag; sew it up and drop in a kettle of 
boiling water, boil it slowly for three 
hours, pricking it several times with a 
needle. 

8J9— TURKISH SHERBET. 

I pmt of angelica wine. 

1 pint of water. 

I lb. of sugar. 

The juice of one lemon. 

The juice of three oranges. 

X lb. of blanched almonds. 

% lb. of Muscatel grapes. 

% lb of figs cut very small. 

% lb. of seedless raisins. 

4 whites of eggs. 

Make a hot syrup of the sugar and wa- 
ter and pour it over the figs and raisins, 
add three cloves and a small cinnamon 
stick; when cold color a light pink, add 
the juice of the lemon and oranges and 
the wine, strain and freeze in the usual 
way; add the raisins, grapes, figs and 
blanched almonds when the sherbet is 
frozen. 



820— PILAFF. 

(Turkish.) 
Take a pint of rice, wash it in three 
waters, then spread it in a large flour 
sieve and let it dry about an hour; put it 
in a saucepan with three cups of light 
stock or chicken broth, cook slightly un- 
til it has boiled thick enough so that the 
bubbles will leave a cavity in the rice, 
then put in % lb. of butter browned light 
in a frying pan, put the lid on and keep 
it in the open oven a quarter of an hour; 
turn it over on the dish in which it will 
be served, trim it with parsley and serve 
hot. 

821— STUFFED ASPARAGUS. 

(Turkish.) 
Take a dozen young asparagus, hollow 
out the stem with a Parisian potato spoon , 
and stuff these with finely minced onion 
and garlic in equal proportions, cook these 
in two minutes in hot olive oil, then drain 



'30 



pRAcrrcAL AND ARTISTIC cook:b:rv. 



them carefully. Mince together equal 
quantities of raw lean mutton, beef suet 
and asparagus tips; season with salt, pep- 
per and minced parsley, add two basting 
spoonfuls of cooked rice; put this force- 
meat in the bottom of a paking dish and 
lay the asparagus in regular form on top, 
moisten with tomato sauce and bake in a 
slow oven; this must be >^eivt>d in tlic dish 
in which it has baked 

822— D0LMA3, 

(Turkish). 
Parboil three heads of young, green 
cabbage, drain them; have ready a force- 



meat made of equal parts of raw mutton 
and beef suet, one-fourth as much of 
cooked rice, season with salt, pepper, 
onion and minced parsley. Trim the 
parboiled cabbage leaves of even size, 
put in the middle of each a little roll of 
the forcemeat; roll these up, put them in 
a saucepan with enough broth to come 
up level with the dolmas, put a plate di- 
rectly on top to keep in place and cook 
very slowly half an hour, drain the liquor 
carefully, put the dolmas on a platter; 
thicken the liquor with sufficient yolks 
of eggs to give it the consistency of 
cream, to this add lemon juice to taste 
and pour it over the dolmas in the dish; 
serve hot. 



^*J» 



HOW TO MAKE YEAST, BREADS, MUFFINS, 



ROLLS, WAFFLES, RUSKS AND OTHER YEAST 
RAISED ARTICLES, BAKING POWDER BISCUITS, 



PUFF PASTES, PATTIE SHELLS, PIES, TARTS. 



^ PART III. .^ 



BREAD 
AND,^ 
CAKES 



^ 



CREAM PUFFS. ECLAIRS, CAKES, MACAROONS, 
KISSES, SMALL PASTRIES, MERINGUES, FILLINGS 



CONSERVES, PUDDINGS, SAUCES, SOUFFLEES, 



CHARLOTTES, JELLIES, BAVARIAN CREAMS. 



Breads^ RoDs^ and Yeast Raised Cakes. 



823-YEAST. 

For those making large quantities of 
bread it may be that the time and labor 
necessitated for the making of yeast is 
figured at less than the expense occasioned 
by the purchase of compressed yeast, 
which is no better than good home-made 
yeast, but almost as good. Care in get- 
ting fresh compressed yeast will provide 
you with a good strong reliable yeast at 
your command for a penny. No potatoes 
to pare and mash, no stock to bottle and 
strain, and still get satisfactory results 
does seem a good plea in favor of the 
compressed yeast; but for those wishing 
to attain perfection, or if the compressed 
yeast cannot be had conveniently, we 
will give directions for the making of 
home-made yeast — not that kind where 
you have to borrow ferment from the 
baker or neighbor — but a recipe to make 
your own ferment or stock, so you can 
rely on sweet, tasteless, strong and quick 
yeast that can be used without fear. 

824— THE BEGINNING OF YEAST. 
Make strong hop tea by boiling a half 
cupful of hops in a quart of water, cool 
and strain it, squeeze the hops to get the 
entire strength. Get a strong quart bot- 
tle, one which has contained champagne 
or ale, fill it two-thirds full, then put in 
the bottle a half cupful of ground malt 
and half as much of sugar; cork securely, 
tying the cork down like you would for 
root beer; shake the bottle thoroughly 
and set it in a warm corner of the kitchen 
where there will be no occasion to disturb 
it and where the temperature is about 
even all the time — it must not set exposed 
to the sun — let it stay there forty-eight 
hours and it will then be ready to use to 
start the stock yeast. 

825— STOCK YEAST. 

Make four quarts of hop tea, using yi 



pound of hops; boil about an hour with 
the steam shut in; after the hops are 
boiled there must be eight quarts in the 
kettle. Put one pound of flour into a 
stone jar or clean tight wooden keg; 
strain half of the boiling hops into it and 
stir thoroughly with a wooden spoon; 
when the flour is stirred smooth add all 
the rest of the hop tea and cool with a 
piece of ice weighing about three pounds; 
when this is done add a pint of ground 
malt and six ounces of sugar; when the 
mixture is luke-warm add the bottle of 
yeast, taking care not to spill any as the 
cork will come out with considerable 
force, mix altogether thoroughly and let 
the jar set in a warm place where it will 
not be disturbed for two days. 



826— ORDINARY YEAST. 

12 medium sized potatoes. 

2 lb. of flour. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

A pint of stock yeast. 

Clean the potatoes thoroughly, they 
should be pared, although bakers are 
against peeling the potatoes — anyway 
the)' can be used either pared or not but, 
certainly must be scrupulously clean; 
boil them in enough water just to cover 
them ; when done pour off the water and 
fill up again with fresh water, when this 
comes to a boil again turn the contents 
of the kettle on the flour and mash all to 
a very thin paste, put in the sugar and 
thin down with ice-water to the consist- 
ency of cream, strain all in a stone jar 
and when it is still lukewarm add a pint 
of stock yeast; let it stand in a place 
where the temperature is moderate. Do 
not disturb for fifteen to twenty-eight 
hours, according to the weather and the 
activity of the stock yeast; it is then 
ready to use and should be kept in a cool 
place. The flour should be well scalded, 



134 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKKkV. 



otherwise it may soijr. Care must be 
taken that the water is boiling vigorously 
when it is poured on the flour. Salt has 
no chemical effect on yeast and it is not 
necessary to use it, but it is altogether 
different with sugar, which has a marked 
chemical effect upon fermentation. Yeast 
may be started by buying stock yeast or 
ferment from the baker, but if you wish 
to have sweet, strong yeast better make 
it yourself or use compressed yeast. Per- 
fection in bread making will be attained 
only when quick, .strong and tasteless 
yeast can be obtained. 

827— ORDINARY BFIEAD DOUGH. 

The standard quantity of yeast to be 
used in making ■ various raised articles is 
one part of yeast to three of water. If 
compressed yeast is used, a j/2 oz. cake of 
Fleishman's is equal to yi pint of home- 
made yeast. 

I pint of yeast. 

3 pints of warm water. 

) rounded tablespoonful of salt. 

^Yz lbs. of flour. 

Strain the yeast and water into a pan 
and mix in half of the flour, beat the 
batter thoroughly with a wooden paddle, 
scrape down the sides of the pan, pour a 
little melted lard on top, put a cover on 
the pan and let the sponge rise four 
hours, then add the salt and make up 
dough with the rest of the flour, knead 
on the table, draw it to a round shape 
occasionaly, then press it out to a flat 
sheet, fold over and press out again, 
knead a few minutes longer and repeat 
the operation several times; clean the pan 
and brush over with a little melted lard, 
put in the dough and brush it over; this 
will prevent the forming of a crust over 
the top or around the edges; let it rise 
two and a half hours, then put it back on 
the table and press it out to a sheet, dou- 
ble it over and press the edges together 
all around so as to inclose the air, repeat 
the operation several times during ten 
minutes, then press the dough to a thin 
sheet, fold it over, press the edges so as 
to form an air cushion, let it stand a few 
minutes and cut it into loaves, or rolls, 
let rise and bake at a temperature of 500 
deg. Farenheit. The flour, water and 



otlier ingredients should be at a tempera- 
ture of 85 degrees Farenheit. The room 
where the sponge and dough is set should 
also be kept at 85 degrees Farenheit. 

Bread can also be made without setting 
the sponge as given in the above direc- 
tions making at night stiff dough 
letting it rise until morning, then 
giving it a kneading as described above. 
It may be set in cold water if the weather 
is warm, so as to check the fermentEtion 
and thus preventing the dough from be- 
coming sour. 

Too much kneading may injure small 
quantities of dough , but this happens very 
seldom; it is generally otherwise and the 
bread is not kneaded enough ; a good plan 
to follow is to knead the bread until it 
begins to break instead of spreading out, 
then stop a few minutes until it has re- 
gained its elasticitj' before kneading 
again . 



828— CLEFT ROLLS. 
Roll out a portion of the bread dough 
to a sheet about three-fourths of an inch 
thick, cut this 'n pieces about three 
inches square; take the two opposite cor- 
ners and press them in the center, place 
them smooth side up in the baking pan 
leaving one and a half inches space all 
around the roll; brush over with luke- 
warm water, let them rise an hour before 
putting them into the oven; cut them 
lengthwise so as to nearly divide them in- 
to halves; this must be done with a sharp 
knife and a down stroke; will bake in a 
good brisk oven in ten minutes. 

829-PLAIN ROLLS. 

Make little round balls about the size 
of a small egj,, put them in a pan just 
touching each other, brush with a little 
butter between them and let rise an hour 
and a quarter; will bake in fifteen to 
twenty minutes; when done brush over 
with butter or milk. 



830— ORDINARY LOAVES. 

Cut the dough in eight pieces and mold 
them round as quickly as possible, that 
is, without working them too much; let 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKER-Y. 



J 35 



ihem stand on the table a few minutes 
and press a little to give them an oblong 
shape to fit the tins, bring over the ends 
into the middle and put them in the bak- 
ing tins, brush slightly with a little but- 
ter and let rise; bake at a temperature of 
500 degrees Farenheit. 

831— GRAHAM BREAD. 

lyi lbs. of graham flour. 

1% lbs. of wheat flour. 

1 cup of yeast or ^ oz. of compressed 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix the yeast and water together, stir 
in the graham, let it stand four hours, 
then mix in the white flour, knead vigor- 
ously. Grease the pan and brush the 
dough over with melted lard; let it rise 
two and a half hou.-s, then make into 
loaves, let rise and bake in the usual way. 
Graham bread will rise much faster than 
white bread and should be watched very 
carefully. 

832— GRAHAM ROLLS. 

Thirty good sized rolls: 

lyi lbs graham flour. 

x% lbs of white flour. 

lyi pints of warm water. 

I coffee cupful of yeast or Yz oz. cake 
compressed yeast. 

3 basting spoonfuls of molasses. 

3 whites of eggs. 

A small teaspoonful of salt. 

Set the sponge at half past nine in the 
morning, at one add the other ingre- 
dients, knead vigorously, and let rise 
until half past four, then work in the 
dough by spreading it out on the table 
and folding over repeatedly as directed 
for white bread. Make the rolls in any 
shape described for white rolls; brush 
them over with butter and set to rise 
three-fourths of an hour; bake fifteen 
minutes in a brisk oven, when done 
brush over with milk. 

833— FRENCH LOAVES. 
Cut the dough made as directed in No. 
827 in eight pieces and proceed exactly 
as dilected for Cleft Rolls, when they are 
done brush over with milk. 



834— PARKERHOUSE, FRENCH OR 
SPLIT ROLLS. . 

For two dozen rolls take: 
I yi cup of milk. 

A teacupful of yeast, or yi oz. cake of 
compressed, dissolved in a teacup of water. 
I teaspoonful of salt. 

1 tablespoonful of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of lard or butter. 

2 lbs of flour. 

If the rolls are to be made for supper, 
set the sponge about half past seven in 
the morning, using two pounds of flour, 
(otherwise if for breakfast, proceed as 
directed in No. 827 for setting sponge 
over night). At half past twelve add the 
sugar and butter and salt, knead the dough 
as directed elsewhere and let it rise until 
half past four, then make the rolls as 
follows: Press the dough on the table and 
roll it down to a thin sheet and cut this 
in round shapes with a biscuit cutter, 
take a little rolling pin, made out of the 
end of a broomstick, and roll a depression 
across the middle of each; brush over 
very lightly with a little butter or lard; 
double the rolls in two with the buttered 
side in, and put them on a baking pan 
with plenty of room, so they will not 
touch when they rise, brush over the 
tops with a little melted butter or lard 
and let rise an hour if the temperature 
of the room if 85 degrees Fahrenheit; 
they will bake in a hot oven, 500 degrees 
Fahrenheit, in ten minutes; when done 
brush over with milk or water. They 
can also be made in a quicker way if the 
dough is kneaded or rolled in lengths 
and then cut in roll size; again a piece of 
dough of the right size may be pulled off 
and molded into shape. Whichever way 
you shape the rolls it must be done 
quickly. 



Jt 



835— FINEST BREAD. 

Make a" dough according to the direc- 
tions given in No. 834 for Parkerhouse 
Rolls; knead it vigorously as directed 
elsewhere; this will make an extra fine 
white bread; may be made in long fluted 
oblong shapes; fancy tins can be bought 
that are made expressly for the purpose. 



136 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



&36— RYE BREAD. 

Rye bread is made in the same manner 
as ordinary' bread, nothing is to be added 
to the dough but the yeast and salt, and 
it must be worked stiffer than wheat bread 
to keep a good shape. 

.^ 

837— VIENNA ROLLS. 

I pint of milk. 

1 cake of Fleishman's compressed 
yeast. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 
A tablespoonful of sugar. 

2 fts. of flour. 

Have the milk slightly warmed, dissolve 
the jeast in it; set the sponge at eight in 
the morning and at one o'clock add the 
sugar and salt and work in the rest of the 
flour to a stiff dough and let rise until 
half past three, then knead it vigorously 
on the table by pressing out and folding 
over; then roll out the dough in one large 
sheet as thin as possible and even — it 
must not be an}' thicker than the edge 
of an ordinary plate — then cut the dough 
in strips about six inches wide, cut these 
again in triangular pieces ( these triangles 
must not be equal sided, but long tri- 
angles); roll these pieces up beginning at 
the broad side, so that the point outside 
will come in the middle, thus making 
spiral marks from end to end; give a few 
light turns to the roll with the open hand 
and place them in the baking pan in the 
form of a crescent; brush over slightly 
with milk and let them rise about forty 
minutes; they will bake in ten minutes. 
This is the genuine Vienna roll as made 
in the up-to-date Vienna bakeries. The 
Vienna shaped rolls can also be made out 
of the French Roll dough; in this case it 
will be preferable to brush over with 
melted butter instead of milk. 



slanting cuts across the top and bake; 
place in the oven in a large pan contain- 
ing wet sawdust. 

839— BUTTER ROLLS. 

1% cup of milk. 

A cup of yeast, or Yz oz. compressed 
yeast. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

About 2',^ lbs. of flour. 

Make either by the sponge or stiff 
dough method (sponge method prefera- 
ble); all the ingredients may be put in at 
once; make in ordinary or Parkerhouse 
shapes. 

840— DELAVAN ROLLS. 
Made out of the Parkerhouse roll 
dough, mold out small balls the size of 
an egg, then roll them out the size of a 
saucer, fold these by bringing over the 
two opposite edges making them meet in 
the middle, and then bringing over the 
other two corners, making a square piece 
of folded dough, roll this out a little, 
brush over vinth melted butter and make 
a depression in the center with a small 
rolling pin, and fold even like Parker- 
house rolls. 



841— ROLL FOR SANDWICHES. 

1^ ft. of puff paste. 

I ft. of roll dough. 

Roll out in thick sheets separately and 
place one on top of the other, fold over in 
three and roll out again thin, repeat the 
operation, then cut out and proceed as 
for Parkerhouse rolls, let it rinse an hour 
then bake ten minutes. 



838-VIENNA BREAD. 

Make twice the quantity directed for 
French roll dough, cut in pound 
pieces. Then mold pointed long loaves, 
let rise in covered boxes previously 
dusted with Indian meal, brush over 
with a thin egg wash made of a beaten 
egg in a teacup of water, give them three 



842— SALLY LUNN. 

1 ft. of bread dough. 

A tablespoonful of sugar. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

% teacup of sweet cream. 

About two cups of flour. 

Keep the dough sweet and light until 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



137 



one o'clock, then mix in all the ingredi- 
ents and let it rise until three o'clock, 
then knead about ten minutes; make in 
little round balls and roll these out flat, 
brush them over with melted butter, let 
rise an hour and a quarter and bake; 
when done brush the top over with maple 
syrup mixed with water when they are 
still in the oven, take out and let this 
dry; they should be made very small as 
these will spread a great deal. 

843— ORDINARY BUNS OR BUTTER 
RUSK. 

I lb. of light rolled dough. 

-%, lb. of butter. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

A teacup of sweet cream. 

8 yolks of eggs. 

Yz teaspoonful of salt. 

I lb. of flour. 

Keep the dough sweet and light until 
one o'clock, warm the butter, sugar and 
cream and mix in with the dough, beat 
the yolks in, two at a time, then gradual- 
ly add the flour, making a smooth dough; 
knead it vigorously and set it away to 
rise; about four o'clock knead the dough 
a second time and let it stand an hour, 
knead once more then make as directed 
for Split Rolls, notching the edge five 
times, thus making a different shaped 
roll, then let rise, and bake the same as 
for ordinary rolls; when done brush over 
with butter. 

844— HOT BUNS. 

I cup of yeast, or Yz oz. compressed 
yeast. 

I cup of milk. 

Yz teaspoonful of salt. 

X lb. of sugar. 

^ lb. of butter. 

3 eggs. 

Grating of nutmeg. 

Flour sufficient to make soft dough. 

Mix all together at once and proceed 
as directed in the preceding recipes for 
Rusk; instead of making into roll shapes, 
make it in small balls and flatten these, 
when done brush over with syrup mixed 
with an equal quantity of water. 



845— CURRANT BUNS. 

2 lbs. of light bread dough. 

Y Va. oi currants. 

^ lb. of butter. 

X lb. of sugar. 

Begin at half past three, spread the 
bread out on the table, strew the currants 
over and knead them in, roll the dough 
out to about a quarter of an inch in thick- 
ness, spread the softened butter over it 
with the sugar on top; cut in bands three 
inches wide, roll them up, brush these 
rolls all over with a little melted butter, 
then cut off in slices, rise and bake. 

846-OERMAN PUFFS. 

I lb. light bread dough. 

6 ozs. butter. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

A half cupful of milk. 

8 yolks of eggs. 

20 ozs. of flour. 

A pinch of salt. 

Take the dough at twelve o'clock and 
mix in the butter, sugar and salt, set in a 
warm place half an hour, then beat 
thoroughly and add two yolks at a time 
and flour by the handful alternately un- 
til all the yolks are in, beating against 
the side of the pan all the time, then turn 
out on the table and knead vigorously, 
set away and let rise three hours, knead 
again as directed for Parkerhouse rolls, 
mold it in small balls, brush over and let 
rise an hour, then fry in hot lard; when 
done roll in sugar; after they are molded 
in shape they must not rise too much as 
they would soak the grease. 

847— FINEST RUSKS. 

I lb. of light bread dough. The bread 
must be very light and the yeast which 
was used in its making of the best possi- 
ble quality. 

Y lb. of butter. 

Y lb. of sugar, powdered. 
7 yolks of eggs. 

I whole egg. 

Yz cup of rich milk. 

Begin at twelve o'clock, mix the dough 
with the powdered sugar and milk; the 
butter and other ingredients should be 
slightly warm before mixing, when this 



138 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



is thoroughly mixed add the eggs and 
flour a little at a time and alternately, 
beating the mixture vigorously all the 
■while; put the remainder of the flour on 
the table, turn out the dough and knead 
as for rolls or bread; set it in a warm 
place for three hours, then knead it again 
by pressing to a thin sheet and folding 
over and pressing the edges together; 
■when the kneading is done it should look 
smooth and elastic, with the air snapping 
from the edges when pressed. After the 
second kneading let it stand an hour and 
a quarter, then knead once more and 
make into shape as described in Parker- 
house Rolls, notch the edges, then brush 
over and let rise an hour and a half; bake 
at a temperature of about 450 degrees 
Fahrenheit fifteen minutes; when done 
brush over with a mixture of equal parts 
of egg, sugar and water, and a teaspoon- 
ful of extract of vanilla, then sprinkle 
sugar over the top. 

848— SWEET RUSK. 

1 lb. of light dough. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

3 basting spoonfuls of milk. 
Sufiicient flour to make stiff dough. 
Proceed as directed for the preceding 

recipe. 

849— MUFFINS. 

1 lb. of light bread dough. 

A basting spoonful of melted butter. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

2 basting spoonfuls of milk. 

I teaspoonful of sugar. 

A handful of flour. 

A little salt. 

Mix the ingredients together three 
hours before the meal; beat the dough 
thoroughly against the side of the pan 
until it is very smooth, fill muffin tins 
half full, let rise an hour and bake in a 
hot oven. 

850— GRAHAM MUFFINS. 
I lb. of graham roll dough. 
A tablespoonful of butter. 
A basting spoonful of syrup. 
j4 cup of milk. 



3 eggs. 

Warm the butter and mix it with the 
dough, put in the other ingredients and 
beat all together a few minutes; grease 
muffin tins, fill them half full, let rise an 
hour and bake. 

850A— MILK BREAD. 

Make the sponge dough as directed 
elsewhere for ordinary bread, but instead 
of using water use milk ; the sponge must 
be beaten vigorously and the flour added^ 
only a little at a time; the dough must be 
softer than for other kinds of bread and 
must be baked in a moderate oven, as it 
will brown easil}-; when done brush over 
with milk. 

851— RAISED BROWN BREAD. 

3 cups of corn meal. 

2 cups boiling water. 

^ teacupful of reboiled molasses. 

I compressed yeast cake or a cupful of 
yeast. 

I cupful of cold water. 

}4 lb. wheat flour. 

As much of graham flour. 

Salt. 

Scald the corn meal with the boiling 
water, put in the salt, molasses and cold 
water, then the yeast, the two kinds of 
flour. Line a small lard pail, or a brown 
bread pail if you have one for the pur- 
pose, -with a buttered paper, put in the 
dough and let it rise about an hour and a 
quarter, then steam for four hours, take 
out of the steamer and put it in the 
oven for a few minutes to form a thin 
crust; if allowed to rise too much it 
will be hollow in the middle; should rise 
an hour more if it is to be baked. 



852— RAISED GINGER BREAD. 

2 lbs. of bread dough. 

^ lb. of reboiled molasses.. 

6 ozs. of butter. 

I rounded teaspoonful of ground gin- 
ger. 

A teaspoonful of mixed spices (cinna- 
mon, allspice, nutmeg). 

Enough flour to work up to a soft 
dough. 

Make up as directed in No. 853, coffee 
cake. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



139 



&53— COFFEE CAKE. 

2 lbs. of bread dough. 
X lb. of sugar. 

X lb, of butter. 

I egg- 
Begin at noon ; mix the dough with all 
the ingredients slightly warm ; knead on 
the table with enough flour to make a 
stiff dough; let rise until four o'clock 
then knead it; roll it out to a sheet a 
quarter of an inch in thickness, cut this 
in pieces suitable to fit the baking pans, 
brush over lightly with melted butter and 
let rise an hour; when ready, put them in 
the oven, score them across and bake fif- 
teen minutes, scoring will prevent the 
crust from puffing up; when done brush 
over with syrup and water mixed in equal 
quantities, and sift over a little cinnamon 
mixed with powdered sugar. 

854— TEA CAKES, 
I lb. of light bread dough. 
6 ozs. each of sugar and butter. 

3 eggs. 

4 ozs. of flour. 

A tablespoonful of caraway seed. 

Mix the ingredients with the dough 
about noon, let it rise until four o'clock 
then beat it well; spread it on greased 
pie plates and let rise an hour, bake, 
split open and butter. 



855— RAISED DOUGHNUTS, NO. U 

2 lbs. bread dough. 

2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 

As much of butter. 

Take the dough from the bread, or 
rolls, at twelve o'clock, mix in the other 
ingredients, let it stand three-quarters of 
an hour then work it up with sufficient 
flour to make a stiff dough and let rise 
until half past four, then knead and roll 
out to a thin sheet, brush the whole sur- 
face with a little melted butter and cut 
with a large doughnut cutter made for 
the purpose; they should be just a trifle 
smaller than a tomato can with the cen- 
ter cutter about one and a half inches in 
diameter; let them rise half an hour, then 
drop in hot lard; they will cook in five 
minutes. Care must be taken not to let 
them rise too much as they will soak the 



gfrease. When they are almost cool, roll 
them in granulated sugar, or sift powder- 
ed sugar over. 

856— RAISED DOUGHNUTS, NO. 2. 

2 lbs light bread dough. 
X lb. light syrup. 

3 eggs. 

A basting spoonful of melted butter. 
Made as the preceding recipe. 

857— RAISED DOUGHNUTS, NO. 3. 

(The cheapest doughnut made). 
Roll out a sheet of the Parkerhouse 
dough, cut in little squares and let rise, 
then fry in hot lard as you would dough- 
nuts, and sift powdered sugar over. They 
make an article a good deal better than 
the appearance of the recipe would war- 
rant. 

.^ 

858— RAISED ALMOND CAKE. 

}4 lb. of light roll dough. 

^ lb. butter. 

X lb. sugar. 

7 eggs. 

10 ozs. of flour. 

}4. cup each of cream and brandy. 

}4 lb. of blanched almonds. 

Mix and rise according to directions 
given for Kaujlauff. Blanch and split 
the almonds in halves and mix half of 
them in the cake just before the dough is 
ready to go into the molds; put the rest of 
the almonds in softened butter and stick 
them all over the cake; bake as directed 
for Kaujlauff. 

859-OARAWAY CAKE, 

1 lb of light bread dough. 
}4 lb. of sugar. 

As much of butter. 

2 eggs. 

A teaspoonful of caraway seeds. 

6 ozs. of flour. 

Mix the dough with the butter and 
sugar and set it in a warm place half an 
hour, then add the eggs one at a time, 
and the caraway, let it stand another half 
hour, add the flour and give it ten min- 
utes of vigorous beating; put it in a but- 
tered cake mold, let it rise an hour and 
bake about three-fourths of an hour. 



I40 



PRA.CTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



860— SAFFRON CAKE. 

I lb. of bread dough. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

% lb of butter. 

% lb. of raisins. 

Yi a small teacupful of strong saffron 
tea. 

8 ozs. flour. 

Mix it up like caraway cake and bake 
like bread. See recipe for caraway cake, 
No. 859. 

861— PLAIN RAISED CAKE. 

I ft. light biead dough. 

^ ft. of sugar. 

X ft. of butter. 

}4. teaspoon ful of caraway seed. 

I ft. of flour. 

Proceed as for the preceding recipe, 
the only difference being the handling 
of the dough, which is kneaded like 
bread instead of beaten, rise and bake in 
the same manner. 

862— RAISED FRUIT CAKE. 

% ft. of roll dough. 

% ft. of butter. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

7 eggs. 

^ pint of flour. 

^ ft. of currants. 

% ft. of candied citron. 

3 basting spoonfuls of brandy. 

A teaspoonful of nutmeg extract. 

Warm the dough, butter and sugar to- 
gether, mix thoroughly and let it stand a 
half hour then mix vigorously and beat 
in the eggs two at a time alternating with 
a handful of flour, let rise two hours, beat 
again, add the flavoring, brandy and 
fruit; line the cake molds with buttered 
paper, put in the batter, let it stand two 
hours, then bake about two hours. 

863— RAISED PLUM CAKE. 
I ft. of bread dough. 
yi, ft. of reboiled molasses and sugar 
mixed. 

8 ozs. butter. 
6 ozs. flour. 
3 eggs. 

A tablespoonful of mixed spices. 



^ ft. of seedless Sultana raisins. 

% lb. of currants. 

% lb of citron. 

A basting spoonful of brandy. 

Flavoring of lemon. 

Warm the dough, sugar and butter to- 
gether, beat slightly, let it stand a half 
hour, beat in the eggs one at a time alter- 
nating with a handful of flour and let 
stand three hours, beat again, add the 
floured fruit and flavoring; line molds 
with buttered paper, fill them half full 
and let rise two and a half hours; bake in 
a moderate oven. 

864-KAUJLAUFF. 

% lb. of roll dough. 

As much of flour and butter. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

yi ft. of currants. 

4 whole eggs and as many yolks. 

A teacup % full of cream. 

A teaspoonful of extract of lemon. 

A little ground cinnamon. 

Warm the dough slightly with the but- 
ter and sugar together, mix thorougly and 
let it rise half an hour, then beat in the 
eggs two at a time alternating with a lit- 
tle flour, beat vigorously for five minutes 
or more and let rise two hours, then beat 
again and add the flavoring, currants and 
cinnamon. L/ine a cake mold with a 
greased paper, put in the batter and let 
rise two hours more, then bake. It will 
be done in about an hour. 

865— RAISED SWEET DUMPLINGS. 

I ft. of roll dough. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

I egg. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

yi ft. of flour. 

At seven in the morning mix the sugar, 
butter and eggs with the dough, let the 
pan stand in a warm place a little while 
then beat it smooth, mix in the flour to 
make a stiff dough and let it rise until 
eleven, then work the dough as you would 
for rolls, finally roll it out to a sheet, 
brush over with butter, cut like baking 
powder biscuits and let rise a half hour; 
then cook them in a steamer about fifteen 
minutes; serve with sauce, maple syrup, 
or stewed fruit. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



141 



866— BERRY DUMPLINGS. 

Strawberries, blackberries and blueber- 
ries can be used to make dumplings in the 
following manner: Make the sweet 
dumpling dough, shape it out like bis- 
cuits, make a little depression in the mid- 
dle, put in a spoonful of berries, gather 
the edges and close the dough over and 
drop the dumpiings in a pan of boiling 
milk and cook in the oven fifteen to 
twenty minutes, they should be basted 
three times with the milk in the pan 
while they are baking; serve with any 
suitable pudding sauce. 
Jt 

867— FRENCH WAFFLES. 

I Tb. of flour. 

I pint of milk. 

I cup of yeast, or i cake compressed 
yeast. 

^2 pint of thick cream, 

)4 lb. butter. 

12 eggs. 

}i teaspoonful of salt. 

I tablespoonful of sugar. 

Make a sponge of the fleur, milk and 
yeast, set this six hours before the meal; 
two hours before they are wanted separate 
the eggs, beat the yolks light and add 
them together with the butter, sugar and 
salt; let it set an hour, then whip the 
cream and stir it in just before baking; 
whip the whites to a stiff froth and stir 
them in; bake in the usual way prescribed 
for waffles. 

868— ORDINARY WAFFLES. 

I ft. of flour. 

I pint of milk. 

A cupful of yeast , or a ^ 02. cake com- 
pressed yeast. 

A basting spoonful of syrup. 

X ft. of butter. 

I teaspoonful of salt. 

4 eggs. 

Make up the sponge six hours before 
using, with the flour, water and yeast, 
four hours after add the other ingredients 
and beat thoroughly, and let it rise until 
ready to bake in waffle irons. Waffles are 
baked in irons, which can be bought of 
any dealer in kitchen utensils. Have the 
iron hot, pour in one side a spoonful of 
melted lard, shut the iron up and turn it 



over three or four times, then place a 
spoonful of the batter in each compart- 
ment; they are made" in two and three 
compartments; shut it up and turn over 
frequently until both sides are done. If 
the iron is kept bright and well greased 
the waffles will come out easily. 

869— FLANNEL CAKES. 

I ft. of flour. 

I quart of lukewarm water. 

1 teacupful of yeast, or ^ oz. cake com- 
pressed yeast. 

A basting spoonful of light syrup, 
X ft. of melted lard. 

2 eggs. 

)4 teaspoonful of salt. 

Make a sponge with the yeast, water 
and flour six hours before they are want- 
ed; an hour before using add the remain- 
ing ingredients and beat thoroughly; bake 
on a griddle which must not be too hot, 
as they will scorch easily; these cook 
quicker than the ordinary baking powder 
griddle cakes. 

870— GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES. 

yi ft. cf wheat flour. 
}4 ft. of graham flour. 
I pint of lukewarm water. 
A teacupful of yeast. 

3 eggs. 

A basting spoonful of syrup. 

A basting spoonful of melted lard. 

}i teaspoonful of salt. 

Set the batter in the usual way as for 
yeast raised griddle cakes; add the salt, 
syrup and lard an hour before using. 

87 J— BUCKWHEAT GRIDDLE 
CAKES. 

I ft. of buckwheat flour. 

I quart of lukewarm water. 

A teacupful of yeast, or a ^ oz. cake of 
compressed yeast. 

)4 teaspoonful of salt. 

I or 2 basting spoonfuls of syrup. 

Same of melted lard or butter. 

Make the sponge over night with the 
yeast, water and flour, an hour before us- 
ing in the morning add the other ingre- 
dients, beat well, and bake thin cakes in 
the usual way. 



142 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



872— RAISEP EGG MUFFINS. 

1 lb. of bread dough. 

A basting spoonful of melted butter. 

2 basting spoonfuls of cream. 
2 yolks and one whole egg. 
A teaspoonful of sugar. 

A little flour. 
A pinch of salt. 

If the bread is made at night, take the 
dough in the morning at half past five, 



work in the butter and cream, let stand a 
few minutes then beat in the eggs and a 
heaping basting spoonful of flour and let 
rise half an hour; fill buttered muffin tins 
half full ; the batter should be thin enough 
to settle smooth, let rise an hour, bake 
in a hot oven ten minutes. If the bread 
is made by the sponge method and set in 
the daj'-time instead of night and if j-ou 
are to have the muffins for supper, start 
them at half past four in the afternoon. 






'* I 





There's a good deal more in bread than ap- 
pears on the surface. There's a much larger 
percentage of nutriment in selected Spring 
wheat of highest grade than in Winter wheat. 
Gold Medal Flour is made from the best 
Spring wheat of Minnesota and Dakota. It is 
the strongest flour made. It makes more bread, 
better bread and more uniform bread than any 
other flour. The family that insists on having 

WASHBURN-CROSBY'S 

GOLD MEDAL 

FLOUR 

will be healthier and more vigorous than a 
family that is satisfied with any other kind. 

WASHBUBN-CROSBY CO., Minneapolis, Minu. 

Alao makers of YUCO the new wheat food. 
For Breakfast, Dinner and Supi)er. 



Baking Powder Biscuits^ Breads Muffins^ 
Griddle Cakes^ Etc* 



873-BAKlNG POWDER. 

Baking powder was first put on the 
market in a noticeable way about forty 
years ago. It was then called German 
yeast, the manufacturers claiming that 
with baking powder flour would yield 
five per cent, more bread than if the ordi- 
nary yeast raising process was employed, 
giving for their reasons that the ordinary 
process of fermentation changed a portion 
of the flour into gas that would escape 
during the long hours of fermentation. 
Chemists employed by the manufacturers 
appended their certificate declaring that 
the powder when evaporating in the bread 
left only a small residue, and that was 
chloride of sodium or common salt. But 
it has since been proven by uninterested 
scientists that if cream of tartar and bi- 
carbonate of soda could be so evenly pro- 
portioned as to counteract each other its 
keeping would be impossible without the 
aid of a hygroscopic agent; that is why 
honest manufacturers use starch, etc., 
while dishonest ones use ingredients in- 
jurious to health, such as terre alba, 
alum, talc, carbonate of ammonia, slacked 
lime, whiting, gypsum, white chalk, Paris 
white, etc., and these deleterious sub- 
stances are used by the hundreds of tons 
annually and consumed in the United 
States. The honest manufacturers must 
use a hygroscopic agent, such as wheat 
or rice flour, potato starch, corn starch 
and many other similar food products, 
and this to the extent of about twenty- 
five per cent. 

Adulteration of baking powder has be- 
come such on important matter that the 
legislatures of several states have made it 
an obligation for the manufacturers to 
print the formula of their powder on the 
outside of each package. My friend, Mr. 
Thatcher, has long since done this of his 



own accord, and you will find the formula 
of his Sugar of Milk Baking Powder on 
every package. 

The discovery of Sugar of Milk as an 
improvement in the art of compounding 
baking powder was made by Dr. Thatch- 
er while employed as an expert in testing 
adulterated milk. He made a careful 
study of the nature, quality and utility of 
the Sugar of Milk, which bids fair to sup- 
plant all other substances as a keeper 
and further leavener for baking powder. 
Even if the superiority of the Sugar of 
Milk baking powder was left aside, the 
flavor alone imparted by the Sugar of 
Milk should make it a sufficient consid- 
eration for its exclusive use. 

Chemistry will teach you that Sugar of 
Milk is a wholesome food, and unlike 
starch used in all other so called pure 
baking powders has no equal as a com- 
minuter and subdivider. It exerts no 
influence whatever on either cream of 
tartar, bicarbonate of soda, or tartaric 
acid, its only use, as far as the agents are 
concerned, being its hygroscopic property 
(absorption of moisture). Four parts of 
Sugar of Milk will prevent the cream of 
tartar and bicarbonate of soda from chem- 
ically combining and thus giving off its 
gas as well as twenty parts of starch or 
flour. Cream of tartar and bicarbonate 
of soda would certainly make a pure bak- 
ing powder, but this becomes an impossi- 
bility without some hygroscopic agent; 
that is why starch and Sugar of Milk are 
used in its preparation. Starch, unless 
cooked several hours, is a detriment to 
good health, while Sugar of Milk ouside 
of its hygroscopic propertj- has ability to 
liberate leavening gas through the slight, 
vinous ferment. By this slight ferment 
Sugar ot Milk is changed into alcohol, 
thereby adding to the leavening power. 



146 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



the liberated alcohol itnpro\ ing the flavor, 
making it quite like a Parkerhouse roll. 

It is possible to proportion bicarbonate 
of soda and cream of tartar so as to neu- 
tralize each other by testing each lot of 
soda; as each lot varies in strength, bi- 
carbonate of soda must be used to exactly 
neutralize the cream of tartar, or else you 
have an excess of acid or alkali. The 
residue left on combining cream of tartar 
and bicarbonate of soda is salt; when tar- 
taric acid is used it is tartrate of soda, 
which is not as mild a salt. 

This slight deviation I have made in 
the endeavor to prove that baking pow- 
der containing Sugar of Milk for its hy- 
groscopic agent is the only kind in which 
everv ingredient does leavening work. 
The World's Fair judges, who possessed 
so nmch judgment and science, pro- 
nounced the Sugar of Milk baking pow- 
der superior to any other. I would bow 
to their decision, even without further 
proof. 

.•* 

874— BAKING POWDER BISCUITS. 

The most favorable condition for yeast 
tiiafle food connected with moisture is a 
proper degree of warmth. The carbonic 
dioxide, or leavening gas, is formed by 
the conversion of the flour starch into 
alcohol, tlius liberating tlie leavening gas. 
This change is most perfect at a moderate 
temperature and is entirely suspended at 
a low temperature. 

Attemptiui, to imitate the above in the 
mak'tig of baking powder biscuits has led 
many cooks astray. The leavening gas 
from the usual baking powder is liberated 
bv the chemical change in its own con- 
stituents. It does not attack and convert 
the flour like yeast, nor is it produced in 
greater abuiulance by heat as is the case 
when yeast is employed. It is true that 
moisture and heat do quickly liberate the 
given amount of leavening gas which the 
baking powder holds. This, however, is 
■where the danger lies, for unlike tlie 
yeast, it does not multiply or increase the 
quantity. If the milk or water used in 
tlie making of the biscuits is warmed be- 
fore mixing much of tlie leavening gas is 
apt to be lost or wasted during the pro- 
-cess of making biscuits, even though the 



work is expeditiously performed. If ice- 
water or milk is used the leavening gas 
is liberated more slowly and is held by 
the cold liquid much longer and in more 
minute globules with limited expansion, 
thus the biscuits enter the oven contain- 
ing all the leavening gas which the heat 
at once begins to expand without the loss 
that would have been occasioned b}' the 
leavening powers with the warmed liquid. 
Thus science has determined that ice- 
water and ice-cold milk will produce bet- 
ter results. 

1 quart of flour. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
A piece of butter size of a lemon. 
First mix the powder with a basting 

spoonful of flour and keep adding flour 
until it is all in, sift three times; the flour 
and baking powder cannot be too 
thoroughly mixed. Rub the butter and 
flour together with your hands until the 
butter is completely incorporated into 
the flour (more or less butter can be used 
according to the desired richness), then 
add quickly sufficient sweet milk to make 
a soft dough ; it should be as soft as can 
be handled, roll it out about an inch 
thick, cut into biscuits. Either grease or 
flour a baking tin, put in the biscuits 
closely together so that they will rise 
rather than spread; they will bake in 
twentv to twentv-five minutes. 



875— BAKING POWDER BREAD. 

Make the baking powder biscuit prepa- 
ration with or without the shortening and 
bake ic bread tins as you would ordinary 
bread. It is very fine to use when just 
cold for sweet sandwiches. 



876-IMITATION VIENNA ROLLS. 
( Baking Powder. ) 

1 quart of flour. 

2 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der. 

I tablespoonful of sugar. 

yi teaspoonful of salt. 

Butter the size of an egg. 

The yolks of two eggs. 

A cupful of milk. 

Mix the baking powder, flour and salt 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



147 



together and rub in the shortening as di- 
rected for biscuits; beat the yolks of eggs 
with the milk and sugar, make the dough, 
roll it out about a quarter of an inch 
thick, let it stand two or three minutes to 
lose its elacticity, cut out and proceed as 
directed for Vienna or Parkerhouse rolls; 
bake as usual and when done brush over 
with melted butter. 

.^ 

877-FLAKY ROLLS. 
The following will make beautiful, 
flaky biscuits extremely white and deli- 
cious for a lunch, and certaihly worth 
while practicing. 

1 lb. of flour. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
Yz teaspoonful of salt. 

A piece of butter the size of an ^^'g. 

A large cup of milk. 

Mix the dough as directed for baking 
powder biscuits, but only with a half tea- 
spoonful of baking powder, mix the rest 
of the powder with a basting spoonful of 
flour; roll out the dough and sprinkle 
with the powder every time it is rolled 
out; it must be rolled several times, the 
last time about an inch thick, cut with an 
oblong shaped cutter; brush over the top 
with melted butter and bake in the usual 
way. 

878— GRAHAM BISCUITS. 
I quart of graham flour. 
I pint of white flour. 
A basting spoonful of lard. 

1 egg. 

A little salt. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
Sufficient milk to make a stiff dough. 
Roll out and proceed as directed for 

baking powder biscuits. 



879— WHEAT MUFFINS. 
2 cups flour. 
2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 

2 eggs. 

I cup of sweet cream. 
Mix the flour, salt and powder together 
thoroughly, beat the eggs light, add the 



cream, beat all together and bake in muf- 
fin tins filled half full. 



880— GRAHAM MUFFINS. 
I pint of sour cream. 

1 teaspoonful of soda. 
Yi teaspoonful of salt. 
Yz cup of sugar. 

2 eggs. 

Sufficient graham flour to make a stiff 
batter. 

Beat the eggs with the sugar until they 
are well incorporated, put the soda in the 
cream with the salt, mix with the eggs 
and sugar, then make a stiff batter with 
the flour and bake in muffin tins. 

881— CORN MUFFINS. 

2 cups flour. 

1 cup corn meal. 
Y, pint of milk. 

3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 
Yz teaspoonful of salt. 

2 eggs. 

Mix the flour, baking powder, com 
meal sugar and salt; beat the eggs sepa- 
rately, the yolks with the milk, mix this 
with the corn meal and flour; then the 
whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth, 
and finally the melted butter; fill the 
muffin tins two-thirds full and bake in a 
moderate oven. 

S 

882-CORN MUFFINS. 

8 ozs. of fine, white corn meal. 

2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 

A cupful of boiling water. 

lYz cups of cold milk. 

X lb. of flour. 

Yz teaspoooful of salt. 

Yolks of two eggs. 

A heaping teaspoonful of baking pow- 
der. 

Put the shortening and water in a sauce- 
pan, let come to a boil, and scald the 
meal with this, add the salt and cold 
milk, put in the yolks, flour and baking 
powder, then beat the batter with a wire 
egg beater, bake in muffin tins; ser\'e 
very hot. 



148 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



883— SCOTCH GEMS. 
I pint of cooked oatmeal. 

1 pint of sweet milk. 
Yz cup of sugar. 

2 eggs well beaten. 
A teaspoon ful of salt. 

2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

Sufficient flour to make a soft batter. 

Cream the sugar and butter, then add 
the salt, milk and beaten eggs, mix the 
flour and baking powder thoroughly, add 
this in with the oatmeal and beat a few 
minutes; bake in well greased gem pans 
in a quick oven. 

884— GINGER BREAD WITHOUT 
EGGS. 

I cup of butter. 

^ It), of brown sugar. 

Yz pint of milk. 

Yz teaspoonful of baking powder. 

1 lb. of flour. 

I teaspoonful of ground ginger. 

Cream the sugar and butter, add the 
milk, ginger and flour, spread the mix- 
ture on a baking pan as thin as possible 
— barely enough to hide the bottom from 
sight — bake in a slack oven and when 
done cut into squares the size of half a 
postal card. 

885— HOT CORN CAKE. 

Mix thoroughly 

i^ cups of corn meal. 

Yx cup of flour. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

Beat two eggs with half a cup of sugar, 
add a cup of sweet cream and two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, beat thorough- 
ly; make the baking pan hot in the oven, 
butter it, pour in the corn cake batter and 
bake in a moderate oven. 



886-STEAMED BROWN BREAD. 

1 lb. of corn meal. 

I pint of boiling water. 

Yz cupful of reboiled molasses. 

I cup of cold milk. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

3 tablespoonfuls of baking powder. 



Yt. lb. of graham flour. 

>^ lb. of white flour. 

Scald the meal vi^th the boiling water, 
add the rest of the ingredients, the bak- 
ing powder being thoroughly mixed and 
sifted with the white flour, beat it up 
vigorously and put in small pails having 
a tight lid, steam four hours, then bake 
from fifteen to twenty minutes. If the 
brown bread sticks to the knife when it 
is being cut, too much milk or water has 
been used in mixing it vip. 

887-BAKING POWDER WAFFLES. 

I lb. of flour. 
I quart of milk. 

6 eggs. 

X lb. melted butter. 

A basting spoonful of light syrup. 

Yi teaspoonful of salt. 

I heaping teaspoonful of baking pow- 
der. 

Mix the milk, syrup and melted butter 
together, beat the eggs and add them to 
the mixture; sift the baking powder and 
flour several times then mix gradually 
until all is smooth; bake as directed in 
No. 867. 

888— SWEET WAFFLES. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

7 eggs. 

I cup of milk. 

A cup of cream. 

A tablespoonful of melted butter. 

Yz teaspoonful of salt. 

A basting spoonful of brandy. 

Mix the flour, sugar and salt together, 
separate the whites, beat the yolks with 
the milk, pour that in the middle of the 
flour and stir to a smooth batter, then add 
the brandy and melted butter, and when 
ready to bake whip the cream and stir it 
in, then beat the eggs firm enough to 
hold an egg and stir these in lightly. If 
the batter has to stand any length of 
time the lightness of the eggs will fall, 
baking powder should then be added. 

889— RICE WAFFLES. 
I pint of cooked rice. 
\Yi cups of milk. 

8 ozs. flour. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



149 



4 eggs. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

As much of syrup. 

I teaspoonful of baking powder. 

A little salt. 

Mash the rice thoroughly, add the milk 
gradually, then the rest of the ingredi- 
ents, and bake in the irons as directed 
elsewhere. 

890-BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES. 

I lb. white bread crumbs. 

}i lb. flour. 

6 cups of milk. 

3 eggs. 

Yz teaspoonful of salt. 

A tablespoonful of baking powder. 

Use only wheat bread crumbs, soak 
these in two parts of the milk for several 
hours and mash smooth; add the flour 
and remainder of the milk, the beaten 
eggs, salt and baking powder, and they 
are ready to bake. 

891 -GRAHAM BREAD CAKES. 
Made as directed in the preceding rec- 
ipe, using graham bread instead. 

892 -RICE GRIDDLE C.\KES. 

A pint of cooked rice. 

3 cups of milk. 

A pint of flour. 

A basting spoonful of syrup. 

3 eggs. 

Yz teaspoonful of salt. 

A heaping teaspoonful of baking pow- 
der. 

Mash the rice with part of the milk, 
which should be lukewarm, when per- 
fectly smooth add the flour and remain- 
ing milk alternately, then add the other 
ingredients and beat thoroughly; bake 
and serve in the usual way prescribed for 
griddle cakes. 



893-CORN GRIDDLE CAKES. 

8 ozs. white corn meal. 

Y, Oj. of flour. 

2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. 

I egg. 

A pinch of salt. 



A pint of water. 

A teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Mix the corn meal and water gradually 
to avoid any lumps, add the rest of the 
ingredients, the powder last; bake thin 
cakes. 

894— SOUR CREAM CRULLERS. 

(Doughnuts.) 
4 cups of flour. 

I teaspoonful of baking powder. 
Mix these well together then add 

3 eggs beaten light. 
3^ cup of sugar. 

Yz cup of milk. 

1 cup of sour cream made sweet with a 
little soda. 

Make a hollow in the flour, pour the 
liquids in the middle and stir without 
lumps; roll out, cut and fry in the usual 
manner. 

895— CRULLERS. 

(Doughnuts.) 

2 lbs. of flour. 

4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
Yz pint of milk. 

X lb. of butter. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

4 eggs. 

Grated nutmeg. 

Dissolve the sugar in the milk, beat 
the eggs, melt the butter and add these 
to the sugar and milk with the grated 
nutmeg; mix the powder thoroughly with 
the flour, put it in the bowl, make a hol- 
low in the middle and pour in the fluid 
mixture, stir without lumps; roll out im- 
mediately, cut in shapes and fry; they 
will take twice as long to fry as raised 
doughnuts. 

896-BEATEN BISCUIT. 

3 lbs. of flour. 

6 ozs. of butter. 

3 cupfuls of milk. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

Have the milk lukewarm; melt the 
butter and mix it in the milk with the 
salt, making a dough of nearly all the 
flour, turn this on the table and knead it 



150 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



smooth with the rest of the flour; when 
this is done beat it out to a sheet with a 
long, stout maul, fold it over an<l beat 
out again, repeat this until it begins to 
break instead of spreading, then let it 
stand a little while and repeat the opera- 
tion; the time of beating is gauged by 
your physical strength and patience, the 
longer you maul the whiter and flakier it 
will become. 

This is an old fashioned recipe greatly 
valued in the South, and for those having 
no time to attend a gj-mnasium the author 
strongly recommends the making of beat- 
en biscuits. 

897— POPCVERS. 

2 eggs. 

I pint of milk. 

ID ozs. of flour. 

% teaspoonful of salt. 

Break the eggs into a bowl and beat 
them light, and keep adding the milk 
while beating, add the salt and flour all 
at once, beat it smooth. Bake in cups or 
very deep muffin pans well greased and 
only half full, in a moderate oven about 
thirty-five minutes. 

898— CORN MUSH. 

I quart of water. 

6 ozs. fine white corn meal. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

Put a teaspoonful of melted butter in 
the saucepan, with the water and salt, 
and when it boils sprinkle in the dry 
meal, stir briskly all the time to avoid 
any lumps, put on the lid and let it sim- 
mer at the back of the range about two 
hours. When the meal is over put what 
is left of the mush in a platter to cool, and 
the following recipe will tell you what to 
do with it. 

899— FRIED MUSH. 

Turn the contents of the dish contain- 
ing the cold mush on the table, cut the 
mush in squares, diamonds, or oval shapes 
if preferred, or simply sliced, dip the 
pieces of mush in Qgg beaten with its 
equal volume of water; roll in sifted 
cracker crumbs; fry in hissing hot lard. 



I drain them in the colander; place them 
In the oven on a piece of manila paper 
until you are ready to serve. 



900— FRIED PONE. 

1 pound of corn meal. 

2 cups of boiling water. 
% lb. of melted lard. 

Yi coffee cup of cold water. 

Yz teaspoonful of salt. 

Have the water boiling briskly, scald 
the meal with it, add the rest of the in- 
gredients; make little round balls with 
the floured hands and fry in deep hot 
lard. These require a long time to cook, 

90J— SOUTHERN CORN BREAD. 

I lb. of corn meal. 

% R). of butter. 

A pint of water. 

A pint of milk. 

5 eggs. 

Yt teaspoonful of salt. 

I heaping teaspoonful of sugar of milk 
baking powder. 

Scald the meal in the boiling water, 
then add the melted butter, salt and cold 
milk, and lastly the eggs; have baking 
pans ready buttered and hot, add the 
baking powder to the batter, beat vigor- 
ously for a few minutes, pour in the bat- 
ter about an inch thick find bake half 
an hour. 



902— ORDINARY CORN BREAD. 

I quart of white corn meal. 
)^ lb. of melted butter. 
A pint of water. 
3 cupfuls of milk. 

3 eggs- 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

A teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Scald two-thirds of the meal with the 
boiling water, put in the melted butter, 
milk, eggs and salt; mix the baking pow- 
der with the remaining com meal and 
stir it in, bake as directed in the previous 
recipe. If the meal is coarse, care should 
be exercised in scalding it and a little 
more milk used so as to mix it thin 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



ISI 



enough. Corn meal is not always alike 
and the coarser it is the more scalding it 
demands. 

903— HOE CAKES. 

A pint of fine corn meal. 

}i lb. of lard. 

yi teaspoonful of salt. 

Put the lard in the middle of the meal, 
sprinkle salt over it and pour in a little 
boiling water to melt it, then add a little 
milk to make a thin mush, then bake on 
the griddle, flatten with the back of the 
spoon to form thin cakes. 

904- CORN GEMS. 

Make the ordinary corn bread mixture 
and bake this in deep muffin tins, they 
should be baked so as to be served as 
soon as they are done. 

905— GERMAN PANCAKES. 

1 pint of milk. 
5 yolks of eggs. 

2 ozs. of butter. 

I tablespoonful of syrup. 

A pinch of salt. 

A teaspoonful of baking powder. 

}i lb. of flour. 

Put a cup of milk in a pan with all the 
other ingredients, stir vigorously, rubbing 
the dough free from lumps, then add the 
remainder of the milk , and fry in small 
^gS pans made hot with a spoonful of 
lard in them, bake light brown on both 
sides; serve with syrup or butter and pul- 
verized sugar. 

906-FRENCH TOAST OR SMOTH- 
ERED BREAD. 

1 pint of milk. 

A basting spoonful of melted butter. 

2 eggs. 

A large teaspoonful of S5'rup. 

% lb. of flour. 

lyi dozen slices of bread. 

Mix all the ingredients to make a thin 
batter, put in the bread slices, let them 
remain in the batter about two minutes, 
and fry in hot lard. They are still better 
fried in a little butter. Serve with jelly 
or with granulated sugar and butter. 



907— FRENCH PANCAKES. 

yi lb. of flour. 

A large basting spoonful of sugar. 

7 eggs. 

Yi coffee cup of milk. 

A basting spoonful of melted butter. 

1 cup of cream. 

2 basting spoonfuls of brandy. 
A pinch of salt. 

Separate the eggs, beat the yolks in the 
milk, put in the sugar, melted butter, 
brandy and salt, mix in the flour smooth, 
whip the cream, mix this with the batter, 
whip the whites to a stiff froth and mix 
them in last; bake thin cakes in eggpans'^ 
when done a nice light color on both 
sides spread with a spoonful of fruit jelly 
and roll it up; serve with powdered sugar 
on top. 

908— PUFF PASTE. 

A coffee cupful of water. 

All the flour that the water will take 
up. 

I lb of butter. 

Make a hollow in the middle of the 
pan of flour, pour in the water, stir to a 
stiff dough, turn it out on the table, knead 
it a little, roll it out to about an inch 
thick; take half of the butter and drop it 
in in lumps the size of small eggs on the 
sheet of dough, leaving a width of two 
inches between each lump, sprinkle a 
little flour over, press the butter gently 
into the dough then fold it over into 
three and roll out the same thickness as 
before; distribute the remainder of the 
butter over the dough, sprinkle more 
flour and fold into three again and count 
this one fold, roll and fold until you have 
counted six times, always keeping the 
dough in square shape and turning the 
broad side toward you after each folding, 
use plenty of flour under and over until 
you have made the sixth count, when the 
surplus can be brushed up; it is then 
ready to use. 

When puff paste has been rolled out 
and folded four times it has the appear- 
ance of two quires of tissue paper of dif- 
erent colors piled alternately. It may be 
hard to get butter and dough to lie so 
equally, but it is what you have to try 
for. If baked after the fourth rolling 



>52 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY, 



the sheets will be as sharp as razor blades, 
for the butter would then run out into 
the bakiiij^ pan; two more rollings and 
foldings make the layers thin enough to 
blow away with the l)reaih; this is perfec- 
tion in ])nlT paste making. The old say- 
ing tliat piilT ])aste is a matter of j)eculiar 
temperament, something that everybody 
cannot make, is all humbug. It is a mat- 
ter of carefulness and study. If the puff 
paste is made in a short time, say fifteen 
to twenty minutes, and the butter has 
been worked smooth beforehand, the 
flonr and water made cold, the dough 
mixed uj) to aI)out the firmness of butter, 
and the paste is baked in a good hot oven 
immediately after it is made, success is 
assured. 

There are several ways of making puff 
paste which I will give further on in this 
book. Try them all and keep the one 
with which you have the best success. 
Kvery one of the recipes is good, but the 
formula to wliicli 1 adlu-re is the one giv- 
en al)ove. 

I^ard may be used in making puff paste 
if it is of good quality; it will make good 
puff paste; of course butter makes a rich- 
er crust, but for pie we .should recommend 
the use of lard, or lard and butter used 
in ecpial (piantities; at any rate good lard 
is far better than poor butter, and makes 
good white, light pastry. If lard is used, 
sprinkle salt over the lumps as they are 
spread on tlie dough. 



909— SUET PUFF PASTE. 

The English bakers use large quantities 
of beef suet in the' making of their pufT 
pastry. It should be cut very small, all 
discolored portions trimmed off and set 
on the range in a kettle with plenty of 
hot water; this must not boil, but steep in 
the hot water for a few hours, and must 
be kept almost to the boiling point; then 
pour the contents of the kettle in a colan- 
der, place in a large dish pan and rub the 
fat through it with an ordinary potato 
masher. Have ready a pan of broken 
ice, water and sjilt, pour the fat into the 
ice-water by huUe fulls; it will settle im- 
mediately ami .should then be gathered 



with a skimmer, pressed together and 
pounded with a wooden masher, salting 
it for use. 



9I0-FRENCH PUFF PASTE. 

ILse equal quantities of flour and butter, 
cut the butler in very thin .slices, take a 
little Hour and roll all the slices of butter 
into flakes and proceed in this way until 
all the butter and flour is rolled together; 
gather all of the flakes into a heap and 
sjninkle with water, about a small tea- 
cupful is rccjuired for a pound and a half 
of paste, make into a smooth paste with 
the hands; roll it out half an inch thick, 
divide it into six parts; flour the board 
and roll each part as thin as a wafer; fold 
over four times and it is ready to use. 
The best results are obtained if it is baked 
immediately. 

J* 

9JJ-PLAIN PIE PASTE. 

1 lb. of flour. 

>2 lb. lard. 

1 level teaspoon of salt. 

SutTicient water to make soft dough. 

Rub the lard in the flour until it is in- 
corporated with the flour, add the salt, 
make a hollow in the middle of the flour, 
pour the water in and stir around, grad- 
ually mixing, turn the paste on the table 
with plenty of flour under, roll and fold 
twice. 

9 J2— SWEET TART PASTE. 

1 lb. of flour. 

6 o/.s. of butter. 

A basting spoonful of powdered sugar. 

2 eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

■> cup of water. 

Rub the butter into the flour, add the 
eggs, sugar and salt with the water, mix 
and knead it smooth without too much 
working. 

9I3-APPLE PIE, BEST WAY. 
Pare and core the apples; only the best 
ripe cooking apples can be used to ad- 
vantage in making this pie; slice them 
verv thin across the core and flU the pie 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



153 



tins lined with puff paste rolled out thin 
cover the apples with sugar and grated 
nutmeg and put in each pie a basting 
spoonful of water and a piece of butter 
the size of a walnut. May be baked with- 
out the top crust for a change, but they 
are better if covered with a thin sheet of 
puff paste brushed over with egg yolk 
beaten with its equal volume of water. 

Jft 

914— APPLE PIE. 
Pare and core the apples and slice them 
in a bright pan. For one pound of the 
sliced apples add about a quarter of a 
pound of sugar, and a small teacupful of 
water — the fjuantity of sugar varies ac- 
cording to the aciditv of the fruit; throw 
in three or four cloves or flavor with 
lemon peelings; stew very slowly with 
the lid on, mash through a colander and 
bake in open pies. This recipe is very 
good for apples of poor quality. 



9 15 -APPLE CREAM PIE. 

I pint of cooked apples. 

^ lb. of sugar. 

I cupful of milk. 

X lb. of butter. 

4 eggs. 

A basting spoonful of sherry. 

Grating of nutmeg. 

Mix all together and bake in pie tins 
lined with a thin .sheet of puff paste. The 
apples should be stewed as dry as possi- 
ble and mashed through a colander. 



916— ORANGE PIE. 
Peel half the number of oranges that 
will be used in making the pie, slice them 
across the core, using a very sharp knife, 
remove the seeds, and place a layer on 
the bottom of the pie pan lined with puff 
paste, alternating with slices of unpeeled 
oranges, strew sugar over plentifully and 
sprinkle over tliis a spoonful of ordinary 
red wine; bake slowly until the juice is as 
thick as syrup. 

9t7-LEMON PIE NO. U 
Yi lb. of sugar. 
3 lemons. 



r pint of water. 

I oz of com starch. 

4 whole eggs. 

A tablespoonful of melted butter. 

Put the sugar in a saucepan, grate in 
the rind of one lemon, squeeze the juice 
without the seeds, pour in the water and 
let come to a boil; mix the corn .starch in 
a little water, pour it in the saucepan 
when the syrup is boiling and take it off 
the fire at once, mix in the eggs slightly 
beaten and the butter. Bake in a pie tin 
lined with puff paste rolled out very thin; 
sift powdered sugar over the pie when 
done, or else beat six whites to a stiff 
froth, add a basting spoonful of sugar; 
spread this meringue over the pie with- 
out taking out of the oven; bake with the 
oven door open, to a straw color. 



918-LEMON PIE NO. 2. 

10 ozs. of sugar. 

5 lemons. 

lYz cups of cream. 

9 yolks of eggs. 

3 whites. 

Put the sugar into a bowl and grate 
the rind of two lemons into it, squeeze in 
the juice, beat the yolks light and mix 
tiie cream with them, pour this mixture 
in the bowl with the lemon and sugar, 
and just before filling the pie beat the 
three whites to a stiff froth and stir them 
in. No meringue or sugar needed on top 
of this rich pie. 



9t9— LEMON PIE NO. 3. 

I lb. of sugar. 

A coffee cupful of water. 

4 lemons. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

6 eggs. 

Cut one of the lemons into thin slices 
and keep to strew in the pie when ready 
to fill; grate the rind of the others into 
the sugar, squeeze in the juice and mix 
with the water, have (this) hot so as 
to extract the lemon flavor; beat the eggs 
and mix them in; fill the pies and put in 
the lemon slices; when done sift powder- 
ed sugar over. 



154 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



920— WASHINGTON PIE. 

Bake two sheets of ordinary cake made 
as directed in No. 1147; spread one sheet 
thickly with pastry cream; place the other 
over; dredge powdered sugar on top. 

Another way is to spread pastry cream 
between and on top. 

92 J— MOCK LEMON PIE. 
I pint of water. 
X lb. of cracker crumbs. 
}ilh. oi sugar. 

^ teaspoonful of tartaric acid. 
I teaspoonful of lemon extract. 

3 eggs. 

Mix all these ingredients together cold, 
beat them vigorously and bake in pie 
crusts. 

922— CRANBERRY PIE. 

A pound of cranberries. 

6 ozs. of sugar. 

Just enough water to cover the bottom 
of the saucepan. 

Cook with the steam shut in at the side 
of the range as they will scorch easily; 
mash through a colander, add a little 
more sugar if necessary; bake in open 
pies, or cover with a lattice work made of 
strips of crust the size of a pencil. 

923— CUSTARD PIE. 

4 eggs. 

1)4 pints of milk. 

X 1^- of sugar. 

Lemon, nutmeg, or any flavoring to 
taste. 

Beat the eggs and sugar together, add 
the milk gradually, then the flavoring ex- 
tract; bake in deep pie tins lined with a 
thin sheet of puff paste with high edges. 
A good custard pie should be very thick. 

J* 
924— PINEAPPLE CREAM PIE. 
I pint of pineapple chopped very fine. 
6 ozs. sugar. 
}4 cup of cream. 
6 yolks of eggs. 

Pound the chopped pineapple to a pulp, 
mix it with the sugar and cook a few 
minutes, add the cream and yolks of eggs 



well beaten together, and fill the open 
pies. The same mixture stirred over the 
fire until cooked thick makes a good fill- 
ing to spread on layer cakes or for tart 
filling. 



925-ARROWROOT PIE. 

I pint of milk. 

A basting spoonful of corn starch, 

X ft>- of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

3 eggs. 

Flavoring extract. 

Mix the starch with a little of the cold 
milk, boil the rest of the milk with the 
sugar in it and stir the corn starch in the 
boiling mixture; add the butter and eggs 
and take from the fire immediately; bake 
in crust as directed for custard pies. 

926— PUMPKIN PIE. 
I pint of mashed pumpkin. 
A basting spoonful of sugar. 
As much of butter. 
I egg. 

A cupful of milk. 
Ground cinnamon. 

Mix all together and bake in deep pie 
pans as directed at No. 923. 

927— PUMPKIN PIE, NO. 2. 

I pint of dried cooked pumpkin. 

X ft*, of butter. 

6 ozs. of sugar. 

3 eggs. 

I cup of milk. 

Ginger or nutmeg. 

Mix all the ingredients together except 
the eggs, beat these in last; bake in deep 
pie pans. 



928-SWEET POTATO PIE. 

X K). of mashed sweet potatoes. 

X lb. of granulated sugar. 

3 ozs. of butter. 

3 eggs. 

)4 teacupful of brandy. 

}i teacupful of wine. 

Steam the potatoes, then mash them 
through a sieve, mix in the butter while 
they are hot, then the sugar, brandy and 



PRACTlCAIy AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



155 



wine; separate the eggs, beat the yolks, 
add these, then whip the whites to a stiff 
froth and stir in last; bake in deep pie 
pans; slice cooked sweet potatoes in the 
crust; when done sift powdered sugar 
over. 

929— PUMPKIN PIE WITHOUT 
EGGS. 

I pint of pumpkin. 

y^ lb. of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

Flavoring of nutmeg. 

Mash the dry steamed pumpkin through 
a colander, mix the sugar and butter with 
it and simmer at the side of the range 
until it becomes thick; flavor and bake in 
crusts. 

930— SQUASH CUSTARD PIE. 
Make a custard of 

1 pint of milk. 

2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 

3 eggs. 

A cupful of mashed squash. 

Beat the eggs and sugar together, add 
the milk gradually, then the squash; 
bake in the usual manner. 

931— SQUASH PIE. 

I pint of dry mashed squash. 

4 ozs. of molasses. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 
, 4 eggs. 

Yt teaspoonful of ginger and allspice. 

I pint of milk. 

Mix the butter with the squash while 
it is still hot, then the molasses and re- 
maining ingredients, mix thoroughly and 
bake in crusts. 



932— VINEGAR PIE. 

I cup of water. 

yi cup of vinegar. 

y^ ft), of brown sugar. 

1 tablespoonful of butter. 

2 ozs. flour. 

Yi, teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. 

Boil the water, vinegar and butter to- 
gether, mix the sugar, flour and cinna- 
mon dry and dredge into the boiling 



liquid, beating all the time; take off the 
fire as soon as partly thickened and before 
it boils. May be baked in open pies or 
with a top crust. 

933— BUTTER PIE. 

1 pint of cream. 

^ lb. of fresh butter. 
Yz lb. of sugar. 

2 ozs. of flour. 

Boil the butter and milk together, mix 
the flour and sugar dry and stir into the 
boiling milk; take the mixture from the 
fire as soon as it begins to thicken; bake 
like custard in deep pie pans lined with 
a thin sheet of paste. 

934-CREAM CURD PIE. 
Yz lb. of curd. 
^ lb. of butter. 
6 ozs. of sugar. 

2 eggs. 

3 }^olks of eggs. 
Yz cupful of milk. 

2 ozs. of currants. 
Flavoring. 

Mash the curd through a sieve, mix in 
other ingredients and bake in crusts. 
The curd should be made of two quarts 
of milk curdled with rennet. 

935- POTATO CREAM PIE. 

Yz lb. of mashed potatoes. 

X ft>. of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

3 eggs. 

Yz cup of mixed brandy and milk. 

Boil good mealy potatoes and mash 
them through a sieve, add the butter 
while still hot, then the sugar, milk and 
flavoring; separate the eggs, beat the 
yolks and add them in, then the whites 
whipped to a stiff froth and stir these 
in just before baking; bake in the 
usual manner, and sift powdered sugar 
over when done. 

936— STRAWBERRY PIE. 

Fill the pie with raw strawberries, 
strew sugar over them, dust a little flour 
and bake with a top crust. Canned ber- 



156 



PRACTICAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



ries can also he used, but the juice must 
be strained off and sugar added to the 
fruit. 



937-PEACH PIE. 

Peach pies can be made in all the ways 
prescribed for apple pies. 



938 -GOOSEBERRY PIE. 

To a pouml of fruil add three-fourths 
of a pound of sugar; cook with the steam 
shut in and when done partly mash with 
the back of a spoon ; fill the pie and cover 
with a full crust or as directed for cran- 
berry pies. 

J* 

939— VARIOUS FRUIT PIES. 

Plum, quince, rhubarb, banana and 
plantain can all be made into pies fol- 
lowing the directions given in No. 913 for 
apple pies. 

lUueberry, raspberry, currant, black- 
berry ami all such small fruit are apt to 
bake too juicy, so they should be cooked 
without the addition of water and the 
surplus juice strained off. 



940-CHOCOLATE PIE. 

1 quart of milk. 
}4 lb. of sugar. 

4 ozs. of flour. 

2 basting spoonfuls of grated chocolate. 
2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 

5 yolks of eggs. 

8 whites of eggs and a basting spoonful 
of sugar. 

Flavoring extract. 

Boil the milk with the grated chocolate 
and half of the sugar, mix the flour and 
the rest of the sugar thoroughly together 
dry, beat them in the boiling mixture, 
then add the butter aiul yolks of eggs 
also well beaten atul remove the mixture 
from the fire immediately; bake in deep 
pie pans lined with a thin sheet of puff 
paste. Make a meringue with the whites 
of eggs atul sugar as directed elsewhere 
and spread over the pie while still 
in the oven and bake to a straw color 
with the oven door open. 



940— COCOANUT CUSTARD PIE. 

Make a custard of: 

I pint of milk. 

3 eggs. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

Then mix in: 

X lb. of cocoauut. 

Bake in tins lined with a very thin 
sheet of puff paste. May be served plain 
or with a meringue on top. 



942 -COCOANUT PIE, NO. 2. 

I pint of milk. 

A heaping bastinj; spoonful of sugar. 

A tablespoonful of corn starch 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

X lb. of grated cocoatmt. 

3 eggs. 

Boil the milk, mix the sugar and starch 
and stir them in; when the milk is boil- 
ing put in the butter and cocoanut, and 
take frojn the fire innuediately, let cool 
below the boiling point, then stir in the 
eggs well beaten; sift powdered sugar 
over the pies after they are baked, or 
cover with ordinary meringue, with cocoa- 
nut sprinkled over before they are put 
into the oven. 



943-WHITE COCOANUT PIE. 

Make as directed in the preceding rec- 
ipe, let it become cold, and instead of 
whole eggs add six whites whipped to a 
froth, flavor with orange flower water, 
good for cocoauut fanchonettes — see rec- 
ipe elsewhere. 



944— MERINGUE FOR PIES. 

Whip the whites of eggs to a froth; 
four to eight whites to each pie accord- 
ing to the thickness that the meringue is 
wanted; beat them stiff enough so they 
will not fall out of the bowl when it is 
turned upside down; put in a tablespoon- 
ful of granulated sugar to each white, 
beat a little after the sugar is in; should 
be spread on the pies when just done 
without taking them out of the oven and 
baked with the oven door open; if the 
oven is ho^ enough to brown the me- 
ringue quickly they will surely fall or 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



157 



run; they should be baked in from six to 
twelve minutes not more than straw col- 
or and dry on top. As soon as the 
meringue is spread on the pies, sift gran- 
ulated sugar over. The secret of making 
tall thick meringues on pies is all in the 
baking. 

945-APPLE TURNOVEPIS. 
Roll out a thin sheet of pufT paste, cut 
it out in rounds as large as a saucer, 
place a spoonful of dried stewed apples 
in the middle of the puff paste, double 
over, press the two edges together and 
crimp with the thumb and finger; when 
the baking pan is full of the turnovers 
brush them with egg and water and 
dredge granulated sugar on top; bake 
in the oven luitil crisp and of a nice 
color. 



946-PATTY SHELLS. 

Cut out puff paste the size of a silver 
dollar, cut a round hole into half of them 
and brush the others over with water; 
place the ones with the holes in on top 
of the others, brush over with beaten 
eggs and bake in a hot oven ; fill with any 
kind of creams, jellies or fillings. 

947 -TARTS. 
An easy way to make tart shells is to 
line patty pans with puff paste or sweet 
tart paste rolled out thin; bake them in 
a hot oven, and fill with stewed fruits, 
creams, etc. 



948— LEMON TARTS. 
Roll out a thin sheet of puff paste, cut 
it out with a patty or tart cutter, brush 
over with egg wash and bake; when done 
raise the lid with a table knife and fill 
with the lemon butter mixture No. 971. 

949— VOL-AU-VENTS. 
(Tartlets or Pattie Shells. ) 
Roll out fine puff paste to about a quar- 
ter of an inch in thickness, cut out with 
a double cutter; place the tartlets in pans 
like biscuits; brush them over with beaten 



eggs and water in e(|ual (juantities and 
bake in a brisk oven; lift out the lid made 
by the cutter in the middle with the end 
of a knife and fill with whatever is desired. 



950— PUFF TARTS. 

Line pattie pans with jnilT paste and 
fill these with corn staroli pulT mixture, 
bake in a moderate oven; when done ice 
with various flavored icings, fill with 
whipped cream, chocolate or coffee pas- 
try cream. The filling should be done 
with a patent filler, but a forcing bag 
with small tube can be used instead, if 
care is exercised. 

jt 

95J— VANILLA TARTLETS. 

Rake puff paste shells, fill them with 
vanilla pastry cream, make a border 
around the edge with meringue, using a 
star pointed tube; dust lightly with pul- 
verized sugar and brown in the oven. 

952-ELDORADOS. 

Cut puff paste rings with a doughnut 
cutter, ^^ of an inch thick, brush these 
over with a thin egg wash and dip them 
in a mixture of chopped ahnoiuls and 
granulated sugar and bake in a hot oven; 
when done spread jam on the l)ottoms 
and stick two together. 



953— MERINGUE TARTS. 
Line nuiflin tins with pie jjaste; partly 
fill with jam; when they are baked make 
a meringe border arouiul the edge, sprin- 
kle pulverized sugar on top aiul brown in 
the oven. 

954-CREAM ROLLS. 
Wind a thin sheet of puff paste around 
a tin tube lyi inches in diameter and 4 
inches long; brush over with beaten eggs, 
roll in granulated sugar and bake in a 
hot oven; when done remove the tube 
and fill with whipped cream or meringue. 



955— PATTY SHELL. 
A delicate sort is made by frying the 



158 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



coating of batter that will adhere to a 
solid copper or nickel plated shape that is 
dipped in it, then immersed in hot lard. 
The shell can be pulled oflF when done, 
the shape wiped and dipped in the batter 
again for an other. The batter will not 
adhere if the metal shape is too hot. The 
frying batter No. 209 is best for this pur- 
pose; fill with minced mushrooms in 
cream or various other preparations de- 
scribed elsewhere. 

956-VARIOUS FRUIT PATTIES. 

Any kind of fruit jelly, jams, lemon or 
honey butter, orange filling, etc. , can be 
used in patty shells or vol-au-vents made 
as described elsewhere in this book. The 
patties or vol-au-vents should be named 
like the paeparation they are filled with 
— lemon patties if they are filled with 
lemon preparation, or chicken patties if 



filled with chicken preparation, and so on. 

957— CUTTERS FOR TARTLETS 
AND OYSTER PATTIES. 

See index and engravings for various 
cutters suitable for oyster patties, vol-au- 
vent, etc. 



958— APPLE CREAM. 

2 cups of grated apple. 
I cup of sugar. 
A tablespoonful of butter. 
A tablespoonful of water. 

Flavoring of lemon. 

Grate the apples, put them in a sauce- 
pan with all the other ingredients and 
stir over the fire about ten minutes. 
Used for vol-au-vents, patties or apple 
cream cake. 



(^* ^9* (^* ((?• (^* ■^* 



Pastry Creams^ Fillings and Conserves* 



959— COFFEE PASTRY CREAM. 

I pint of clear, strong coffee. 

I pint of cream. 

^ ft), of white sugar. 

% tt). of flour. 

5 eggs. 

A tablespoonful of butter. 

Set the cream and coffee on to boil, 
mix the flour and sugar together while 
dry, then sprinkle them in the cream 
when it is boiling and keep beating until 
it gets hot again without boiling, move 
it back on the range, stir in the five eggs 
and stir slightly for fifteen minutes, or 
until thick and well cooked. 

960— CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM. 

1 quart of milk. 
% lb. of sugar. 
% lb. of flour. 

2 ozs. of grated chocolate. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

5 yolks of eggs. 

Boil the milk, butter and grated choco- 
late together, mix the flour and sugar 
dry and beat them in the boiling milk, 
and finish as directed for Coffee Pastry 
Cream; when cold flavor with vauilla. 



961— PASTRY CREAM. 

1 pint of milk. 

6 ozs. of granulated sugar. 

2 ozs. of corn starch. 
As much of butter. 

6 yolks of eggs. 

Flavoring extract. 

Boil the milk and sugar together, mix 
the starch with a little water, pour it in 
the saucepan when the milk is boiling 
and stir up before it boils again, add the 
eggs and butter and stir briskly until the 
mixture becomes thick; do not flavor un- 
til it is cold. This is used instead of 



whipped cream for puffs, eclairs and va- 
rious other articles for which this cream 
has been prescribed. 

962— CHEESE PUFF FILLING. 

% lb. of cheese. 

J!4: lb. of butter. 

% cupful of milk. 

4 j'olks of eggs. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Grate the cheese, put it in a saucepan 
with all the other ingredients, stir over 
the fire until it becomes thick, but do not 
let it boil. 



963— BEST MINCE MEAT. 

2 lbs. of lean boiled beef. 
I lb. of beef suet. 

I lb. of apples. 

I lb. of currants. 

I lb. of seedless raisins. 

I lb. of brown sugar. 

|4f lb. of citron. 

I quart can of pears. 

^ lb. of prepared ginger. 

% dozen oranges. 

3 lemons. 

I cup of rum. 

1 cup of brandy. 

2 cups of port wine. 

I oz. of mixed ground spices (nutmeg, 
mace, cinnamon, cloves). 

Grate the orange and lemon rinds, 
squeeze in the juice and mix all the dry 
articles together, pour the liquors over 
and put the mince meat in a fruit jar, 
seal and let it stand two weeks before us- 
ing. This is the choicest English recipe. 



964-STANDARD MINCE MEAT. 
I lb. of raisins. 
I lb. of currants. 



i6o 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



1 lb. of apples. 

I R). of brown sugar. 

I ft), of lean boiled beef. 

I ft), of beef suet. 

^ lb. of candied citron. 

Candied peel of one orange and lemon. 

I oz. of ground spices. 

3 pints of sweet cider. 

I cupful of brandy. 

Chop the beef and suet fine, season 
with a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and 
chop the rest of the dry articles together, 
pour the liquids over; fill fruit jars, seal 
them carefully; will be ready to use in 
ten days. This recipe can be made with 
more or less fruit, with or without the 
brandy as desired; it can be varied ac- 
cording to circumstances and taste. 



965— CHEAP MINCE MEAT. 

1 lb. of lean beef. 
lyi lbs. of beef suet. 

2 lbs. of currants. 
i8 ozs. of apples. 
^ lb. of seedless raisins. 
^ lb. of brown sugar. 
I tablespoonful of minced ground 

spices. 

^ lb. of candied citron. 
I cup of brandy. 

3 pints of cider. 
Mix all the dry articles together except 

the raisins, put these in whole. 

966— CHEAP MINCE No. 2. 
^ lb. of bread. 
I lb. of boiled beef. 
I lb. of brown sugar. 

1 pint of molasses. 

^ lb. of dried apple. 
^ lb. of suet. 
}i lb. of seedless raisins. 
^ lb. of currants. 

2 ozs. of mixed ground spice. 

A level teaspoonful of black pepper. 

I pint of vinegar. 

The peel of 2 oranges. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

Pour a qviart of cold water over the 
bread, let it stand an hour or so and mash 
it through a colander; boil the apples in 
as much water then chop them, add the 
juice and the rest of the ingredients, mix 



in the usual way; boil the orange peels a 
quarter of an hour and mince them fine; 
cider can be used instead of vinegar. 

967-LEMON CONSERVE. 

Yz lb of sugar. 

3 lemons. 

A basting spoon,ful of butter. 

3 yolks of eggs. 

I whole egg. 

Put the butter and sugar together in a 
saucepan, grate in the rinds of the lemons 
and the juice without the seeds, then stir 
it over the fire until it boils, beat in the 
yolks and cook about ten minutes more, 
stirring all the time; when the mixture is 
thick take it off and use for filling vol-au- 
vents, tarts, small pies, etc. 

968— ALMOND CONSERVE. 
yi lb. of almonds. 

3 basting spoonfuls of water. 
% lb. of sugar. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 

4 yolks of eggs. 
Blanch the almonds and chop them 

fine; boil the sugar and water together, 
when it is a thick syrup add the minced 
almonds and butter; boil four or five min- 
utes longer then stir in the yolk of eggs 
and the mixture is ready when thickened. 



969-FLORlDA CONSERVE FOR 
ECLAIRS. 

A suitable preparation for eclairs, cream 
cake, tartlets, etc. 

^ lb. of sugar. 
■ X lb. of fresh grated cocoanut. 

2 good sized oranges. 

2 lemons. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

Grate the rinds of the lemons and 
squeeze the juice into the sugar; do not 
put in the seeds as they will make the 
preparation bitter, boil this syrup, add 
the butter and cocoanut, let come to a 
boil again, beat in the j'olks and let these 
cook three or four minutes. If fresh 
cocoanut cannot be had, dessicated may 
be used, previously moistened with a 
little sweetened water. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



i6i 



970— PINEAPPLE CONSERVE. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

1 can of pineapples. 

A tablespoonful of butter. 

2 eggs. 

Mash the pineapple to a pulp, add half 
of the juice from the can, the sugar and 
butter, let come to a boil, then add the 
beaten eggs and stir over the fire a few 
minutes until it thickens. 



971— LEMON BUTTER. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

3 lemons. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

4 yolks of eggs. 
I whole egg. 

Boil the lemon juice, grated rind and 
sugar together, throw in the butter and 
stir in the eggs, cook slowly for about 
ten minutes, let it cool ready for use. 



972— LEMON FILLING FOR PIES 
AND TARTS. 

3 lemons. 

Yt cup of sugar. 

A teacupful of water. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

A level basting spoonful of flour. 

3 eggs. 

Boil the water with the grated lemon 
rind, juice and butter; mix the flour and 
sugar together and beat them in ; when 
the liquid in the kettle is boiling add the 
eggs and stir over a moderate fire about 
eight minutes. 

973-ORANGE FILLING. 

1 lb. of sugar. 

4 oranges. 

Juice of 3 lemons. 

% lb. of butter. 

Yz dozen yolks of eggs. 

2 whole eggs. 

Yz teaspoonful of orange flower water. 

Boil the sugar and water with the 
grated rind of the oranges, squeeze in the 
juice of the oranges and lemons without 
the bitter seeds and stir the syrup slowly 
until it boils, then beat in the yolks of 
eggs and cook until the mixture is thick- 



ened, add the orange flower water and a 
half teaspoonful of rose extract. 



974— RHUBARB MARMALADE. 

1 quart of finely cut rhubarb. 

2 cups of sugar. 
Peels of three oranges. 

Grate the rinds of oranges into a sauce- 
pan with the rhubarb and sugar, add a 
half teacupful of water and simmer at the 
side of the range with the steam shut in 
for about an hour. 

975— PINEAPPLE CREAM FOR 
FILLING. 

See recipe for pineapple cream pie. 

976— COCOANUT FILLING. 

Yz lb. of grated cocoanut. 

Yz cupful of milk. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. 

Whites of four eggs. 

The rind of half an orange. 

Cut the orange rind, pared very thin, 
in small pieces, boil it with the sugar, 
milk, butter and beaten whites; take the 
mixture olT the range as soon as it thick- 
ens and add the cocoanut. A good filling 
for layer or other kinds of cake. 

977— APRICOT JAM FOR TARTS. 

Take one can of apricots, strain the 
juice, mash the fruit, add as much sugar 
as you have fruit pulp; put in a saucepan 
as much sugar as you have juice, boil 
gently for thirty minutes, skim, then add 
the apricot pulp and let it simmer slowly 
until it is thick. 



978— ORANGE BUTTER. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

Yt lb. of butter. 

8 eggs. 

2 oranges. 

Grate the rind and squeeze the juice 
of the oranges into a deep saucepan with 
the sugar in it, add the butter and eggs 
slightly beaten, set the mixture over the 
fire and when it becomes thick remove it 



l62 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



from the fire; care must be taken that it 
does not burn ; this mixture can be cook- 
ed in a double dish; when done beat 
a few minutes. A goodfilling for ordi- 
nary orange pies without meringue. 

979-CURRANT CREAM nLLING. 

A cup of red currant jelly. 
I pint of rich cream. 
5 eggs. 



Warm the jelly in a double dish just 
enough to melt it and beat it with the 
eggs and cream ; use for tarts, vol-au-vents 
or open pies. 

980— NUT FILLING. 
% lb. of almond paste. « 

}^ lb. of grated almond meat. 
% lb. pulverized sugar. 
Sufficient Rhine wine to make a soft 
paste. 



Q^V ^V ^« ^W g^V (^W ^« (^W f^% f^^ ^v 



Puddings and Sauces* 



981— PLAIN SHORT PASTE FOR 
DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

I lb. of flour. 

X lb. of butter. 

A teaspoonful of salt. 

A cupful of water. 

Rub the butter and flour together, put 
in the salt and water, work the dough 
smooth, then roll out on a floured board; 
it is then ready for use for apple dump- 
lings and various other puddings, recipes 
for which will follow. 

982— RASPBERRY PUDDING. 
Make a plain short paste as directed in 
No. 981. Line an earthen baking dish 
with a sheet of the paste and fill with 
fresh picked raspberries; wet the edges, 
roll out a round sheet of paste and 
lay it on top; cut off the surplus by 
rolling the edge with the rolling-pin. 
Wet and flour a pudding cloth and 
lay the bowl upon the middle, gather 
the cloth over the top of the pudding 
and tie safely; drop the pudding up- 
side-down in a kettle of boiling water, 
boil two hours, dip in cold water, take off 
the cloth, cvit a hole in the top and put in 
enough sugar to sweeten; serve in the 
bowl it has cooked in, set on a plate. 
Any kind of fruit can be used for pudding 
in this manner. 

983— BOILED APPLE DUMPLING. 

Make a plaiu short "paste No. 981. Pare 
and core good cooking apples, cut them 
in halves; roll a sheet of paste about a 
quarter of an inch thick, put the apples 
in the dough, cut the paste all around the 
apples and pinch it off underneath until 
all closed up; there must be no holes or 
thin places to let in the water; drop the 
dumplings in a saucepan of boiling water 
with the steam shut in; cook about half an 
hour, and serve with sauce. 



984— HOMINY PUDDING. 

A cup of cooked hominy grits. 

A tablespoonful of butter. 

A tablespoonful of sugar. 

I yolk of e^g. 

% cup of milk. 

Mix all the ingredients together and 
bake in a buttered pudding dish; will be 
done in ten minutes; serve with port wine 
or any other suitable sauce. 

985— BREAD PUDDING. 
I lb of thin slices of bread. 
% lb. of butter. 

1 quart of milk. 

yi teacupful of sugar. 

2 eggs. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

^2 pound of currants. 

Grating of nutmeg. 

Cut the crust from the bread, spread 
with the butter and place in two layers 
in the pudding pan, sprinkle currants on 
top, beat the eggs, sugar and nutmeg, 
spread this over the bread, cover the pud- 
ding with buttered paper and bake half 
an hour; when done it resembles custard 
and should be served hot with transpar- 
ent or brandy sauce. 

986— PASTE FOR STEAMED ROLL. 
A pound of flour. 

1 cupful of water. 
6 ozs. of butter. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

Put the flour into a bowl, make a hol- 
low in the middle and pour in the water 
and mix smooth ; turn the dough on the 
table, knead it a little and roll it out, 
drop the butter in lumps an inch apart 
all over, sift a little flour over, fold in 
three as you would puff paste, and c®unt 
this one; roll it out again, spread half of 
the baking powder over like you would 



1 64 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



flour, fold over again and count this two; 
at the next rolling sprinkle the rest of the 
baking powder and fold, making all to- 
gether four times. Ready to use for boil- 
ed fruit rolls of various descriptions. 

Jit 
987— BOILED APPLE ROLL. 
Pare, core and chop enough apples to 
make two cupfuls when minced; make a 
boiled roll paste as directed elsewhere, 
use only half, roll this out thin, 
spread the apples as evenly as possible 
all over, roll up and tie in a pudding 
cloth which should be previously damp- 
ened and floured, drop into a kettle of 
boiling water, which should be kept boil- 
ing constantly for an hour and three- 
quarters; pick ihe cloth with a needle 
several times so as to let the steam es- 
cape and prevent the cloth from opening; 
serve with hard sauce. 

988— VARIOUS FRUIT ROLLS. 
Can be made in a manner sim.ilar to 
the preceding recipe; if currant, apricot, 
peach or huckleberry are used they are 
better stewed and mashed through a col- 
ander, cooled and used as directed for 
apple rolls. 

989— INDIVIDUAL PUFF PUDDING. 

I quart of milk. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

X lb. of flour. 

yi, lb. of sugar, 

5 eggs. 

Mix the flour and sugar dry and when 
the milk is boiling stir it in and cook a 
few minutes, then add the eggs and sim- 
mer from fifteen to twenty minutes; when 
it is below the boiling point beat in half 
a dozen yolks of eggs one at a time, flavor 
with extract of orange; whip the whites 
of eight eggs firm enough to hold an egg, 
stir them in lightly and bake in paper 
cases fifteen minutes in a quick oven. 



990— CHOCOLATE PUFF PUDDING. 
Proceed exactly as directed in preced- 
ing recipe using chocolate pastry cream 
instead. 



991— LEMON MERINGUE PUDDING, 

I quart of white bread crumbs. 

I quart of water. 

4 ozs. of finely chopped suet. 

]/i. lb. of sugar. 

The rind and juice of two lemons. 

7 yolks of eggs. 

% teaspoonful of soda. 

Grate the rinds of the lemons in the 
breadcrumbs, mix in the suet, squeeze 
the lemon juice in the water, pour this 
over the bread then add the sugar and 
yolks of eggs beaten together, then the 
soda mixed in a little warm water, bake;^ 
when done make a meringue of the seven 
whites of eggs, a quarter pound of granu- 
lated sugar and flavoring of lemon ex- 
tract, spread this over the pudding and 
bake straw color; serve with vanilla sauce 
or sweetened cream. 

992— INDIVIDUAL LEMON PUD- 
DING. 

Make half of the preceding mixture, 
but instead of baking it, stir in a sauce- 
pan over the fire until it has the consis- 
tency of Cream Puff Paste; beat three 
yolks of eggs and stir them in, take off 
the mixture, let it cool a little; beat the 
whites of eggs firm enough so that they 
will not fall out of the bowl if turned up- 
side-down, mix these in lightly and bake 
in paper cases; they must be served im- 
mediately as they will fall almost as sooa 
as they are taken out of the oven. 

993— RICE CAKE WITH CURRANT 
JELLY. 

I quart of cooked rice. 

3 ozs. of butter, 

3 ozs. of sugar. 

3 yolks of eggs. 

I teacupful of milk. 

Flavoring extract. 

Mix all together thoroughly, mashing 
the rice with a spoon, smooth over and 
put a layer about an inch thick into a 
pan; bake in a brisk oven until it acquires 
a brown color on top; serve with straw- 
berry jelly. 

994— STEAMED TAPIOCA PUDDING, 
yi lb. of tapioca. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



165 



3 cups of milk. 
X lb. sugar. 

1 basting spoonful of butter. 
3 yolks of eggs. 

2 whole eggs. 
I lemon. 

Soak the tapioca in half of the milk 
in a warm place about two hours, then 
let the remaining milk come to a boil 
with the salt, sugar and butter, turn this 
in the dish containing the tapioca and 
let it simmer fifteen minutes with the lid 
on, then beat in the lemon rind and juice, 
butter a mold, put in the mixture and 
steam half an hour. 



995— ROYAL STEAMED PUDDING. 

7 ozs. of butter. 

12 ozs. of sugar. 

6 eggs. 

Yz lb. of flour. 

A small lemon. 

€ ozs. of almonds. 

% lb. of citron. 

% lb, of seedless raisins. 

Cream the butter and sugar, then add 
the eggs one at a time and the flour last 
in five portions; cut the citron into fine 
shreds and mix with the other fruit, dust 
plentifully with flour and mix with the 
batter; steam in buttered molds about 
three hours; serve with any kind of sauce 
suitable. 

996— GRAHAM PUDDING. 

I quart of whole wheat mush. 
3 ba.sting spoonfuls of molasses. 
A heaping basting spoonful of chopped 
suet. 

3 eggs. 

3 cups of milk. 

Yz teaspoonful of ground cinnamon and 
mace. 

Y lb. of seedless raisins. 

Mix all the ingredients together except 
the raisins and eggs, beat the eggs thor- 
oughly, add them in and when the mix- 
ture is in the pan strew the raisins over; 
serve with maple syrup or any other 
sweet sauce. 

997— CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 
I quart of milk. 



2 ozs. of grated chocolate. 
8 ozs. of sugar. 

3 ozs. of corn starch. 

I tablespoonful of melted butter. 

4 eggs. 

A tablespoonful of vanilla extract. 

Boil the milk with the sugar and choc- 
olate in it, and beat it occasionally until 
the chocolate is all dissolved; mix the 
starch in a little cold milk, stir it in and 
remove from the fire immediately, then 
beat in the butter, eggs and flavoring ex- 
tract; bake from fifteen to twenty min- 
utes, or until it is just set in the middle; 
serve cold with whipped cream. 

998— APPLE PUDDING. 

I quart of apple pulp. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

X lb. of butter. 

10 yolks of eggs. 

I lemon. 

Mash the apple, mix in the other in- 
gredients, grate the lemon rind, bake in 
a buttered earthen dish; serve with gol- 
den sauce mixed with an equal quantity 
of whipped cream. 

999— TREMONT FRUIT PUDDING. 

I lb, of bread crumbs finely minced. 

6 ozs, of chopped suet, 

12 ozs, of seedless Sultana raisins. 

12 ozs. of chopped apple, 

8 eggs. 

8 ozs, of sugar. 

Nutmeg. 

Mix the dry ingredients together, and 
beat the eggs, sugar and extract, stir all 
together, put the mixture in a pudding 
cloth previously dampened and floured, 
steam three hours; serve with brandy or 
hard sauce. 

looo— BAKED RICE PUDDING. 

I cup of rice. 

I cup of sugar. 

i^ quarts of milk. 

A pinch of salt. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

Wash the rice carefully in two or three 
waters; mix the sugar, salt and a little 
cinnamon, put it in the milk and add the 



i66 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



melted butter, bake about three hours; 
cover with a greased paper to prevent 
scorching; serve with sweetened cream. 

looi— BAKED RICE AND APPLE 
PUDDING. 

Make the rice pudding preparation us- 
ing only one quart of milk and a heap- 
ing coffee cupful of ^'apples, pared, cored 
and sliced, drop the slices of apples in 
the fpudding, cover with a buttered pa- 
per, bake three hours and serve with 
golden or hard sauce. 

I002— BAKED RICE AND RAISIN 

PUDDING. . 
Made as directed in the preceding rec- 
ipe using raisins instead of apples. 

1003— RICE CUSTARD PUDDING. 

4 cups of dry cooked rice. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

X lb. of sugar. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

I pint of milk. 

A little lemon extract. 

Add the butter and sugar to the hot, 
fresh cooked rice; beat the yolks with 
the milk and add this gradually, then the 
flavoring, put in a greased pudding dish 
and bake half an hour. 



1004— TAPIOCA CUSTARD. 
6 ozs. of tapioca. 

3 cups of milk. 

2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 

4 yolks of eggs. 
I whole egg. 

A pinch of salt. 

Orange rind for flavoring. 

Wash the tapioca, soak it in half of the 
milk for two and a half hours; boil the 
milk with the sugar in it, put in the soak- 
ed tapioca and let it cook slowly about 
half an hour; beat the eggs and mix with 
the tapioca, pour the mixture in an earth- 
en dish, bake in a quick oven until it is 
just set in the middle; if allowed to cook 
any more the milk will curdle and the 
pudding lose its richness; serve with wine 
or transparent sauce. 



1005— TAPIOCA MERINGUE. 
Make the tapioca custard of the pre- 
ceding recipe. When it is baked spread 
a meringue over the top made of the 
whites of eggs and granulated sugar fla- 
vored with vanilla; bake with the oven 
door open. See recipe for Lemon Me- 
ringue Pie. 

1006— FARINA PUDDING. 

1 quart of milk. 
4 ozs. of farina. 

2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 

3 eggs. 

Boil the milk with the sugar in it, 
sprinkle in the farina, stirring vigorously 
all the time to avoid any lumps, when 
the farina is all in let it cook slowly half 
an hour, mix in the butter and beaten 
eggs and bake fifteen minutes in a butter- 
ed pudding dish. 



1007— STEAMED BREAD PUDDING. 
12 ozs. of white breadcrumbs. 
6 ozs. of sugar. 
2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 

1 pint of milk. 

2 eggs. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

% teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Extract of lemon. 

Boil the milk with the butter and sugar 
in it, pour this over the bread crumbs, let it 
stand half an hour, then beat the yolks 
and whole eggs together and mix them 
in, add the flavoring extract, and lastly 
the baking powder, beat vigorously five 
minutes; put in a buttered mold -and 
steam an hour and a half; serve with ma- 
ple syrup or any other suitable sauce. 



^ 



1008- 



STEAMED POUND PUDDING. 

12 ozs. of white sugar. 

12 ozs. of fresh butter. 

10 eggs. 

I lb. of flour. 

Cream the butter and sugar together, 
beat^in the eggs two at a time then add 
the flour in eight portions, when the flour 
is all in beat the mixture vigorously for a 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



167 



minute or two; steam in tall round mould 
continuously for two hours; ser^^e with 
wine or brandy sauce. 

1009— SULTANA RAISIN PUDDING. 

}i lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 

% lb. of granulated sugar. 

As much of butter. 

5 whites of eggs. 

% cup of milk. 

A rounded teaspoonful of baking pow- 
der. 

8 ozs. of flour. 

A basting spoonful of brandy. 

Cream the butter and sugar together, 
add the whites one at a time, mix in the 
baking powder with the flour, put that in 
in small portions then add the milk, 
brandy, vanilla, and raisins, dusted with 
flour; steam two hours; serve with wine 
sauce or any other agreeable to the taste. 

loio— COCOANUT PUDDING. 
Make the Sultana raisin pudding prep- 
aration; instead of raisins use a cupful of 
desiccated cocoanut. 

loi I— ALMOND PUDDING. 

Make the Sultana raisin pudding prep- 
aration and instead of raisins use a tea- 
cupful of blanched almonds. 

Dried fruit of any kind can be used in 
like manner. 

1012— BRUSSELS PUDDING. 

7 ozs. of butter. 
6 ozs. of sugar. 
6 eggs. 

8 ozs. of flour. 
Orange extract, 

6 ozs. of almonds. 

6 ozs. of citron. 

6 ozs. of seedless Sultana raisins. 

Mix the sugar, butter, eggs and flour 
in a similar way as described for pound 
cake, blanch the almonds, cut the citron 
in small pieces, dust the fruit and al- 
monds with flour, mix them in the batter; 
put in plain or ornamental molds and 
steam three hours; serve with lemon syr- 
up, brandy or curacoa sauce. 



1013— BROWN FRUIT PUDDING, 

% lb of butter, 

6 ozs, of sugar. 

5 eggs. 

Yz lb. of flour. 

A teaspoonful of ground spices. 

The juice and rind of half a lemon. 

A basting spoonful of brandy. 

% lb. each of citron, raisins and cur- 
rants. 

Mix the butter, eggs, sugar and flour 
as j'ou would for pound cake, add the 
spices, brandy and lemon juice, dust the 
fruit with flour and mix them in, steam 
three and a half hours; serve with brandy 
or hard sauce. 

1014— PINEAPPLE PUDDING. 

I lb. of pineapple. 

% lb. of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

Y teacupful of pineapple juice. 

I oz. of corn starch. 

8 eggs. 

Mash the canned pineapple, then add 
the sugar a little at a time; stir the pulp 
and the sugar with the butter in it over 
the fire, mix the starch with the juice 
and add it to the contents of the sauce- 
pan, let it thicken, then beat in four 
yolks of eggs and cook ten minutes, take 
the mixture off the range and let it cool ; 
whip the eight whites of eggs to a stiff 
froth, stir in the remaining yolks of eggs, 
then the whites, bake in buttered custard 
cups or paper cases ten minutes in a mod- 
erate oven; dredge powdered sugar over 
the top when they are partly baked; serve 
just out of the oven, 

1015— LIVERPOOL PUDDING, 
I lb, of slices of cake, 

3 basting spoonfuls of brandy. 

I cupful of mixed seedless raisins and 
blanched almonds coarsely minced, 
A basting spoonful of butter. 
2% cups of milk. 

4 eggs. 

Spread the minced almonds and raisins 
over the cake, fill up a buttered mold, 
and put in the brandy and butter in 
small pieces; beat the eggs and milk to- 
gether and pour it in the mold; steam an 
hour and a quarter. 



i68 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



1016— ITAWAN PUDDING. 
Place in the bottom of custard cups a 
small white sponge drop, cover with a 
layer of minced raisins, over this place a 
macaroon, continue until the cup is full. 
Make a custard of four eggs to a pint of 
thin cream and a basting spoonful of 
sugar, fill the cups with all that the cakes 
will absorb and steam forty minutes; 
serve in the cups it has steamed in, with 
whipped cream piled over the top. 

1017— PUMPKIN PUDDING. 
1)4 lbs. of dried stewed pumpkin. 
A small teacupful of maple syrup. 

2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 

1 cup of cream. 

5 eggs. 

)4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and 
cinnamon. 

Mash the dried stewed pumpkin 
through a colander, add the sugar, butter, 
cream and eggs beaten together, the 
spices last, bake in a buttered pudding 
dish; serve hot without sauce, or cold 
with whipped cream. 

1018— SWEET POTATO PUDDING. 
12 ozs. of baked sweet potatoes. 

3 basting spoonfuls of butter. 
X lb. of sugar. 

6 eggs. 

2 basting spoonfuls of brandy. 
As much of sherry. 

Mash the potatoes through a colander 
so as to have 12 ounces of potatoes when 
ready to start the pudding, mix in the 
butter while still hot, then the sugar and 
sherry; separate the eggs, beat the yolks 
in the mixture, whip the whites to a firm 
froth, mix them lightly, bake in muffin 
tins or a large pudding dish ; serve with 
brandy or wine sauce; the potatoes must 
be very good and mealy. 

1019— BOILED SUET PUDDING. 
I lb. of flour. 
8 ozs. of suet, 
i^ cups of water. 
A small teaspoonful of salt. 
Chop the suet and rub it with the flour 
as you would butter in making baking 



powder biscuits, mix in the water and 
beat the dough thoroughly; dampen and 
flour a pudding bag, put in the dough, 
tie securely and boil three hours; the 
water should be boiling when the pud- 
ding is dropped in; serve with maple 
syrup. 



1020— BOILED LEMON PUDDING. 

}4 lb. of flour. 

}4 lb. of suet. 

)4 lb. of white bread crumbs. 

A teacupful of granulated sugar. 

2 lemons. 

2 eggs. 

I pint of milk. 

A small teaspoonful of salt. 

)4 teaspoonful of soda. 

Mince the breadcrumbs very fine and 
mix the flour and the rest of the dry arti- 
cles together; beat the eggs with the milk, 
grate in the lemon rinds, squeeze in the 
juice, mix the soda with a little water, 
put it in the milk; mix all together, tie up 
in a pudding bag dampened and floured 
and boil two and a half hours; serve with 
sauce. 



102 1— BROWN SUET PUDDING. 
I lb. of flour. 
^ lb. of suet. 
8 ozs. of molasses. 
8 ozs. of raisins. 
}4 teaspoonful of salt. 
I teaspoonful of mixed ground spices. 
% teaspoonful of soda. 

1 cup of milk. 

2 eggs. 

Chop the suet very fine and mix the 
dry articles together; beat the eggs in the 
milk; mix the soda with a little water, 
pour it in the milk and mix all together; 
steam 2>/^ hours; serve with brandy or 
curacoa sauce. 



1022— RAISIN SUET PUDDING. 
X lb. of flour. 
X lb. of suet. 
>^ lb. of sugar. 

}i lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 
^2 teaspoonful of salt. 
I cup of milk. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



169 



2 eggs. 

% teaspoonful of soda. 

Chop th^ suet very fine, stir the dry 
articles together, beat the eggs with the 
milk, mix the soda with a little water, 
pour the liquids over the dry articles and 
mix thoroughly; steam four hours; serve 
with sauce. 



1023— SULTANA PUDDING. 

}^ lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 

8 ozs. of flour. 

I pint of milk. 

4 eggs. 

A basting spoonful of melted butter. 

A basting spoonful of golden or maple 
syrup. 

A pinch of salt. 

Make a batter of the flour, milk, yolks 
of eggs, melted butter and syrup; beat 
the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, mix 
them in lightly, add the flour and raisins, 
bake in a quick oven, 

Jit 
1024— HAVANA PUDDING. 
1% lbs. of banana pulp. 
X lb. of sugar. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 

1 cup of cream. 
6 eggs. 

2 basting spoonfuls of rum. 
I pineapple. 

Ground mace. 

Put the banana pulp in a saucepan with 
the sugar and butter, stir it over the fire 
until it is almost boiling, then take it off, 
add the cream and flavoring, then the 
yolks of eggs, and last the whites 
whipped to a stiff froth; bake in jelly 
pans or in individual pudding dishes, 
which must be well buttered as this prep- 
aration is apt to stick; bake fifteen min- 
utes in a moderately hot oven; slice the 
pineapple, put the slices in a hot syrup 
made of Port wine and granulated sugar; 
serve the pudding up-side-down on 
a slice of the pineapple with some of 
the sauce poured over. 



1025— CURD 
8 ozs. of curd. 
^ lb. of butter. 



PUDDING. 



6 ozs. of sugar. 

2 whole eggs. 

3 yolks. 

A teacupful of raisins and currants 
mixed. 

I cup of milk. 

A small teacupful of fine breadcrumbs. 

Lemon flavoring. 

Take two and a half quarts of milk and 
curdle it with rennet, rub the curd 
through a strainer with a masher, add 
the solid ingredients first, then the eggs 
and cream beaten together and bake in a 
buttered baking dish half an hour; serve 
with brandy custard. 

J* 

1026— MINUTE PUDDING. 

1 quart of milk. 

2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 

4 ozs. of corn starch. 

1 basting spoonful of butter. 

2 yolks of eggs. 
A pinch of salt. 
Flavoring extract. 

Boil the milk with the sugar in it, mix 
the starch with a little cold milk; when 
the milk and sugar is boiling pour the 
corn starch in, stirring quickly, stir about 
two minutes or until it is thick, then stir 
in the yolks beaten with their equal vol- 
ume of milk, take the kettle off the range 
immediately; add the butter and flavoring 
and pour the pudding in buttered pans; 
serve with cream. 



1027— DUNDEE MERINGUE PUD- 
DING. 

1 quart of milk. 

X lb. of corn starch. 

2 ozs. of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

3 yolks of eggs. 
A pinch of salt. 

A teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 

Boil the milk with the sugar in it, mix 
the starch with a little additional cold 
milk and mix it in when the milk and 
sugar is boiling; when it has thickened 
take it off the fire, beat in the butter, 
then the beaten yolks of eggs mixed with 
their equal quantity of milk; flavor and 
bake about fifteen minutes, then spread 
orange Marmelade on top, set it back in 



I70 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY, 



the oven and when this is hot spread 
over a meringe paste made of six whites 
of eggs and four ounces of sugar; bake 
five minutes in a slack oven, or in the 
oven with the door open ; when the me- 
ringue is a straw color take it out and 
serve with custard sauce mixed with its 
equal quantity of whipped cream. 



1028— BAKED FRUIT PUDDING. 

I pint of bread crumbs. 

I teacupful of chopped suet. 

I teacupful of seedless raisins. 

I teacupful of currants. 

I teacupful of sugar. 

1 cup of milk. 

2 eggs. 

y^ teaspoonful of mixed ground spices. 

]/> teaspoonful of soda. 

Lemon extract. 

Crumble the bread and mix all the dry 
articles with it except the soda, dissolve 
this in the milk, beat the eggs, add the 
milk to them a little at a time and pour 
over the dry ingredients; add a teaspoon- 
ful of lemon extract; bake in a buttered 
pan from three-fourths of an hour to an 
hour; should be covered with a greased 
paper to prevent the scorching of the 
fruit. 



1029— BAKED COCOANUT PUDDING. 
Yi lb. of grated cocoanut. 
I pint of bread crumbs. 
I pint of milk. 
I tablespoonful of butter. 
A basting spoonful of sugar. 

1 lemon. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

Grate the rind of lemon into the bread 
crumbs, squeeze the lemon juice into the 
milk, beat in the eggs and dissolve the 
sugar, mix the soda in a little water, add 
this to the liquid mixture and pour over 
the bread crumbs, add a cup of cocoanut 
lastly, bake about about half an hour; 
beat up the whites of six eggs, add a 
basting spoonful of granulated sugar and 
the remaining cocoanut; spread this 
meringue on top and bake with the oven 
door open unlil^it has acquired a light 
straw color; serve with lemon syrup. 



1030— CORN MEAL PLUM PUDDING. 

3 pints of milk. 

18 ozs. of corn meal. 

X lb. of butter. 

A small teacupful of molasses. 

4 eggs. 

6 yolks of eggs. 

I lemon. 

Yz lb. of seed-less Sultana raisins. 

Yz lb. of currants. 

Make a mush of the milk and meal, 
let it cook slowly at the side of the range 
with the steam shut in for an hour an a 
half, then add the other ingredients, the 
eggs well beaten and fruit dusted with 
flour; steam two hours in well buttered 
moulds and serve with brandy sauce. 

103 1— ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. 

\Yz lbs. of flour. 

I lb. of finely minced suet. 

I lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 

12 ozs. of currants. 

y, lb. of candied citron. 

I tablespoonful of mixed ground spices 
(cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves). 

Mix these together and prepare the 
following fluid mixture: 

xYz cups of milk. 

A small half cup of reboiled molasses. 

4 eggs. 

8 ozs. of brown sugar. 

A teacupful of brandy. 

Yz teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix this thoroughly together and add 
to the rest of the ingredients, let this 
stand over night, and the next morning 
tie it up in a pudding bag and wrap this 
in another cloth, boil steadily 6^ hours; 
serve with brandy, sabayon or other 
sauce. 

1032— GERMAN STEAMED PLUM 

PUDDING. 
I lb. of white bread crumbs. 
8 ozs. of sugar. 
Yz lb. of finely minced suet. 
Yz lb. of seedless raisins. 
Yz lb. of currants. 
I cup of milk. 
4 eggs. 

A teaspoonful of mixed ground spices 
(cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, cloves). 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



171 



3 basting spoonfuls of brandy. 

A pinch of soda and salt. 

Chop the bread crumbs very fine, add 
the suet and rest of the dry articles, wet 
with the milk, eggs and brandy, the soda 
dissolved in the milk; put the pudding in 
a bag and wrap this in two more cloths. 



1033— BREAD CUSTARD PUDDING. 
I quart of white bread crumbs. 

1 quart of milk. 

A basting spoonful of melted butter. 

2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 
The juice of half a lemon. 

5 yolks of eggs. 

Crumb the bread very fine, grat° the 
rind of the lemon into it and squeeze the 
juice in the sugar; beat the yolks of eggs 
and add them' to the ni'lk and then the 
sugar and lastly the melted butter, pour 
this over the bread crumbs, stir it up and 
pour into a buttered tin pan, and bake a 
half hour. This pudding is better baked 
in thin pans than in earthen baking 
dishes, as it will bake quicker and prevent 
the milk from wheying; serve with wine 
sauce. 



IC34— BAKED CITRON PUDDING. 

Make the bread custard preparation 
No. 1033 and add to it a half pound of 
shredded citron. 

1035— BROWN BREAD PUDDING. 
I quart of milk. 

1 quart of graham bread crumbs. 
A basting spoonful of molasses. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

Yi teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. 

Crumble the bread very fine, melt the 
butter and mix it in with the milk, but- 
ter and molasses, stir all together and 
bake about thirty minutes; serve with 
transparent sauce. 

1036— BAKED BREAD PUDDING. 

2 cupfuls of bread. 
2 cupfuls of milk. 

I teacupful of finely minced suet. 
A basiiiig spoonful of sugar. 



2 eggs. 

Grated nutmeg or lemon rind. 

Trim the dark crust from the bread, 
cut it in thin slices, then into dice; strew 
the suet in the bottom of a pan with the 
bread on top, mix the sugar, milk, eggs 
and nutmeg or lemon peel, pour this 
over the bread and suet in the pan; bake 
it until set in the middle. Serve with 
apple dumpling sauce made of 

\%. cups of boiling water. 

I cup of light brown sugar. 

A grated nutmeg. 

A heaping teaspoonful of flour. 

Mix the flour and sugar together dry, 
pour the boiling water over, add the but- 
ter and nutmeg and stir briskly over the 
fire until it boils. 

1037— COTTAGE PUDDING. 
X lb. of butter. 
)i lb. of sugar. 

3 eggs. 

1 cup of milk. 
12 ozs. of flour. 

A heaping teaspoonful baking powder. 

A pinch of salt. 

Cream the powder and sugar, add the 
eggs one at a time, then the milk and 
flour with the powder mixed in it, throw 
in the salt last and give the mixture a 
thorough beating; bake in shallow 
moulds, and serve cut in squares, with 
sauce. 

1038- STEAMED CHESTNUT PUD- 
DING. 
8 ozs. of chestnut pulp. 
A teacup of cream. 

2 ozs. of fresh butter. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

4 yolks of eggs. 
4 whites. 

A pinch of salt. 

Vanilla flavoring. 

Boil three-fourths pound of chestnuts 
in water about an hour, peel them, scrape 
off the outside and mash through a sieve, 
moisten with the cream made hot, to 
facilitate the mashing, then mix all the 
ingredients but the whiles of eggs; beat 
thoroughly, and whip the whites firm 
and mix them in lightly, steam in a well 
buttered mould about thirty miimtes; 
serve with vanilla cu.stard sauce. 



172 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



1039-^AVARIN PUDDING. 
7 ozs. of grauulated sugar. 

6 eggs. 

7 ozs. flour. 
Vanilla extract. 

2 basting spoonfuls of brandy. 

Beat the sugar and eggs together a half 
hour, then stir in the flour, vanilla ex- 
tract and brandy, sift the granulated 
sugar on top and bake in a moderate oven, 
ti should bake in about half an hour; 
when done mix together a cupful of 
curacoa and as much of orange syrup and 
make holes in the cake with the point of 
a knife, pour the curacoa mixture over it, 
and serve with plain custard sauce. 

1040— COCOANUT PUDDING. 
(Individual.) 

1 pint of milk. 

3 ozs. of sugar. 

2 ozs. of com starch. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

}4 lb. of desiccated cocoanut. 

6 whites of eggs. 

Lemon flavoring. 

Boil the milk with a tablespoonful of 
sugar; mix the flour and sugar together 
dry. and put them in all at once when the 
milk is boiling, stir rapidly and when 
cooked thick beat in the butter, then the 
cocoanut, take off the fire and when cool 
beat the whites of eggs to a firm froth, 
then beat the pudding mixture a few 
minutes and stir in the whites lightly, 
add the flavoring last; will bake in paper 
cases in about ten minutes; sift powdered 
sugar on top. 

1041— BAKED TAPIOCA PUDDING. 
>2 lb. of tapioca. 

3 cups of milk. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

2 eggs. 

Put the tapioca to soak in half of the 
milk; two hours later boil the other half of 
the milk with the sugar in it, and stir in 
the tapioca and let it simmer at the side 
of the range about twenty minutes; the 
tapioca should tlien be well cooked and 
transparent, if it is not so let it cook a 
little longer, then stir in the butter and 
eggs and bake; serve with cream or a 
suitable sauce. 



1042— STEAMED POUND PUDDING. 

>^ lb. of sugar. 

6 ozs. of butter. 

5 eggs. 

)4 lb. of flour. 

Cream the sugar and butter together, 
add the eggs one at a time, then the flour 
in four portions, beat up well; fill a 
greased mould and steam an hour and a 
half. The mould must be tightly cov- 
ered, otherwise the steam will condense 
on the side of the mould and make the 
pudding sogg}-; ser\'e with wine sauce or 
orange syrup. 

1043— QUEEN PUDDING. 
2 cups of bread crumbs. 
2 cups of milk. 

2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. 
% teacupful of sugar. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

^2 cup of currant jelly. 

3 whites of eggs and a basting spoonful 
of sugar for a meringfue. 

Mince the white bread crumbs very 
fine; mix the sugar, eggs, butter and milk, 
pour this over the bread crumbs, bake in 
the oven; when set spread the jelly over 
the top and set in the oven again. Whip 
the whites firm enough to hold up an 
egg, add the sugar; spread the meringue 
on top of the jelly, and bake with the 
oven door partly open. 

1044— BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. 
}i lb. of corn meal. 

1 quart of water. 

Set the water on the stove to boil, 
sprinkle in the com meal and make a 
mush of it, then add 

A heaping bsisting spoonful of finely 
minced suet. 

^^ cup of molasses. 

2 eggs. 

A level teaspoon ful of ground ginger. 

Beat all together and bake. Serve 
with cream, maple syrup, or any other 
suitable sauce. 

i ^ 

I 1045— BATTER PUDDING. 

j I ^2 cups of flour. 

; ij4 pints of milk. 

i I tablespoonful of melted butter. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



173 



3 eggs. 

^ teaspoonful of salt. 

As much baking powder. 

Mix the flour and milk without lumps, 
add the melted butter, salt, powder, and 
the eggs lastly well beaten. Butter a 
baking pan, make it warm in the oven, 
pour in enough batter to have it a half 
inch thick and bake twenty minutes; 
served with maple syrup or any other 
pudding sauce. 



1046— BREAD AND BUTTER PUD- 
DING. 

Yz lb. of bread cut into slices. 

2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 

2 cups of milk. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

2 eggs. 

Yz cup of currants. 

A grated nutmeg. 

There must be no crust around the 
slices of bread. Spread the butter on 
these lightly, place two layers in a pud- 
ding dish with currants between and 
more on top; beat the sugar, eggs, milk 
and grated nutmeg together and pour 
this custard over the bread, cover with 
greased paper and bake about half an 
hour; serve with pure, fresh, sweetened 
cream. 



^ 



1047— STEAMED CABINET PUD- 
DING. 

Yt cup of butter. 

Yz cup of shredded citron. 

6 cups of milk. 

8 eggs. 

Yt cup of currant jelly. 

Enough slices of sponge cake to fill a 
two-quart pudding dish. 

Spread the slices of cake on one side 
with butter and the other with currant 
jelly, put three or four together, cut in 
square dice, mix the shredded citron 
with the cake, put this in the pudding 
dish, mix the eggs and milk together 
and pour over the cake and citron; press 
down lightly with a skimmer, when it 
has soaked a short time steam about 
half an hour; serve with whipped cream. 



1048— BREAD CUSTARD. 

I pint of white bread crumbs. 

I pint of milk. 

A piece of butter the size of an ^Z'g. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

Yz grated nutmeg. 

I egg. 

Chop the bread fine, grate in the nut- 
meg, mix the milk with the t^%^ sugar 
and melted butter and mix it in, and 
pour this custard mixture over the bread 
crumbs, bake in a buttered pudding dish; 
let it remain in the oven about half an 
hour; serve with sauce. 



1049— BIRDS' NEST PUDDING. 

I cup of flour. 

lYz pints of milk. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

Butter the size of a small lemon. 

3 eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

Sufficient nice ripe cooking apples to 
fill a two quart pudding dish. 

Pare and core the apples; fill the core 
cavities with sugar and butter mixed in 
equal proportions; put enough water in 
the bottom of a baking pan to just cover 
it; make a batter of all the other ingre- 
dients, beat it smooth and pour it over 
the apple and bake thirty-five minutes; 
serve with fresh sweetened cream. 



1050— BOILED CINNAMON PUD- 
DING. 

I lb. of flour. 

6 ozs. of minced suet. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

Yz lb. of seedless raisins. 

Yz pint of milk. 

I egg. 

A pinch of salt. 

Cut all the discolored portions, skins 
and pieces of lean from the suet, mince 
it very fine and rub it in the flour, put in 
the other ingredients, stir all together 
vigorously, put into a pudding bag and 
boil five hours; take it out of the boiling 
water just before it is wanted; serve with 
brandy sauce. 



174 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



105 1— GYPSY PUDDING. 
Make a sponge cake as directed in No. 
1 1 35, bake in two shallow pans; spread 
one with jelly and put the other one on 
top. Make a custard as directed in No. 
1078; put it in the pan, when it is cold 
drop in the cake. Whip a half pint of 
cream, flavor it with lemon or vanilla; 
serve a portion of the cake, some of the 
custard and a spoonful of the w'hipped 
cream on top. 

Jt 

1052— BAKED CABINET PUDDING. 
Line the bottom of a two quart earthen 
baking dish with sponge cake, drop 
shreds of citron and bits of butter as large 
as lima beans; put another la3-er of cake 
on top; more butter and citron, then mix 
two eggs with three cups of milk and a 
basting spoonful of sugar, flavor this with 
grated lemon rind; beat well together; 
pour over the cake in a baking dish, 
cover with a sheet of greased paper, bake 
about twent)'-five minutes; when done 
finish with a meringue on top as directed 
for lemon pie; serve with plain sweet 
cream. 

1053— BAKED BARLEY PUDDING. 

Boil the barley thoroughly; for two 
large cups use 

A basting spoonful of molasses. 

^^ cup of minced suet. 

I egg. 

}4 cup of milk. 

A level teaspoonful of ground cinna- 
mon. 

Mix all together thoroughly and bake 
about thirty minutes. 

1054— CURRANT SUET PUDDING. 

12 ors. of flour. 

8 ozs. of minced suet. 

^2 lb. of currants. 

yi pint of water. 

A pinch of salt. 

Mix all the ingredients together; knead 
the dough in a long solid roll, tie it up in 
a cloth, sew it up securely on each side; 
boil about two and a half hours. When 
done dip the pudding in cold water so 
that the cloth will come off easily, and 
serve with brandy sauce or any other 
suitable sauce. 



1055— BANANA PUDDING. 
(Individual.) 
Save the half of orange peels pre- 
viously used for some other purpose, 
notch the edges, or the^-^ can be split 
part way and tlie edge rounded in imita- 
tion of water-lilies, boil in several waters 
until they are tender; drain and boil a 
few minutes in heavy sugar syrup; drain 
them and roll in sugar, set them to dry 
on a buttered paper in the shape that 
you will want them when cold. Make 
a filling of 

1 lb. of banana pulp. 

3 basting spoonfuls of very fresh but- 
ter. 

A small teacup of sugar. 
6 whole eggs. 

2 yolks. 

2 basting spoonfuls of brandy. 

j4 teaspoonful of ground mace. 

Mash the bananas with the butter, 
sugar, mace and the two yolks of eggs, 
stir overthe fire until partly cooked, let 
it cool and add the six raw yolks and the 
brandy and beat vigorously; whip the 
whites to a firm froth and mix them in 
lightly, fill the orange peels previously 
prepared, and bake on a buttered paper 
in a slack oven ten minutes; serve imme- 
diately. 

1056— MACARONI PUDDING. 

4 ozs. of macaroni. 

1 pint of milk. 

2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 
I basting spoonful of butter. 

1 teacupful of cream. 

2 eggs. 
Extract of vanilla. 

Boil the milk with the sugar in it, break 
the macaroni in lengths not longer than 
an inch, put them into boiling milk and 
cook slowly with the steam shut in about 
half an hour; beat the eggs with 
the cream, add the flavoring to this and 
mix with the macaroni, bake in a buttered 
pudding dish until it sets. Ser\-e with a 
sauce made of a pint of Port w4ne, half a 
pound of cut figs, }{ tb. of sugar, a table- 
spoonful of butter, slightly thicken with 
corn starch and cook until it is clear, or 
if this is too expensive, serve with any 
other suitable sauce. 



PRACTrCA.L AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



175 



1057— VERMICELLI PUDDING. 
Proceed exactly as for macaroni pud- 
ding, using vermicelli instead of maca- 
roni. 

1058— GREEN CORN PUDDING. 
(Individual.) 

Make conical shaped cups of the lower 
part of green corn husks. This is done 
by cutting the .stem close and trimming 
the edges round with a pair of shears ; 
dip these in hot clarified butter and place 
them in muffin pans, and fill with a corn 
pudding made of 

1% lbs. of green corn. 

2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. 
% teaspoonful of salt. 
Seasoning of white pepper. 

3 eggs. 

I pint of milk. 

Shave the corn from the cob with a 
sharp knife, stir in the butter and season- 
ing,^then the eggs and milk beaten to- 
gether; fill the cups and bake fifteen to 
twenty minutes. The corn husks must 
not be burned or much discolored. 

1059— BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. 

I quart of milk. 

]4 lb. of butter. 

I teacupful of molasses. 

I lemon. 

6 eggs. 

Make a mush of the milk and corn meal 
and let it cook slowly with the lid on 
about an hour and a half, and mix in the 
other ingredients, the juice of the lemon 
only, and bake twenty minutes. 

1060— BAKED INDIAN FRUIT PUD- 
DING. 

3 cups of milk. 

I teacup of corn meal. 

A heaping basting spoonful of finely 
minced suet. 

yi teacup of molasses. 

% teaspoonful of ground ginger, 

3 eggs. 

% lb. of mixed seedless Sultana raisins 
and currants. 

Ground cinnamon. 



Make mush of the milk and corn meal, 
add all the other ingredients and bake 
in a moderate oven three-fourths of an 
hour. 



1061— INDIVIDUAL ALMOND 
SOUFFLES. 

8 ozs. sugar. 

% cup of water. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

8 ozs. of almonds. 

6 eggs. 

I oz. of corn starch. 

A few drops of rose extract. 

4 peach kernels. 

Blanch the almonds, pound them in 
the mortar until they are reduced to a 
paste, moisten with the extract of rose 
diluted in a tablespoonful of water to 
facilitate the making of the paste; boil 
the sugar and water a few minutes, throw 
in the butter then the almond paste 
mixed with the corn starch, add three 
yolks of eggs, stir and cook until it 
thickens, take it off the range, add the 
remaining raw yolks and beat thorough- 
ly; whip the whites firm, add them in 
lightly and bake in paper cases. See 
part V. for cases. 

1062— CHOCOLATE CUvSTARD. 
(Individual.) 

I quart of new milk. 

3 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 

I tablespoonful grated chocolate. 

8 eggs. 

A tablespoonful of vanilla. 

Boil the sugar and grated chocolate 
with half of the milk, stir all the time 
until the chocolate is dissolved; separate 
the eggs so as to reserve six whites to 
make a meringe; beat the rest of the 
eggs in with the cold milk and pour this 
in the sauce pan with the chocolate, 
flavor, partly fill custard cups; place 
these in a steamer and steam fifteen 
minutes. Make a meringue of the six 
whites and granulated sugar, pile it on 
top of the hot custard, set these in the 
oven and bake straw color with the door 
open. 



176 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



1063— CARAMEL CUSTARD. 
(Individual.) 

I quart of milk. 

I cupful of sugar. 

9 eggs. 

A teaspoonful of almond extract. 

Take a third of the sugar to make the 
caramel, put this in a bright kettle with 
a teaspoonful of water, set it on the fire 
and when it looks like golden syrup pour 
in half of the milk and let it boil until 
it is all dissolved; reserve six whites of 
eggs to make a meringue; beat the rest 
into half of the milk, add the remaining 
sugar, flavor and mix in the caramel last; 
bake and proceed as directed for choco- 
late custard. 

1064— PLAIN CUSTARD. 

I quart of milk. 

yi cup of sugar. 

5 eggs. 

A tablespoonful of flavoring extract 
(vanilla or lemon. ) 

Beat the eggs and sugar together, pour 
in the milk, add the extract and bake 
in an earthen baking dish until just 
set in the middle, as it will lose its 
richness if allowed to bake too long. 
Excellent served with cold cream. 



1065— PINEAPPLE CUSTARD. 

1 quart of new milk. 
8 ozs. of sugar. 

2 tablespoonfuls of corn starch. 

11 yolks of eggs. 

12 ozs. of pineapple. 
A pinch of salt. 

Cut the'pineapple into small dice; if it 
is not very ripe and sweet cover it with 
sugar, let it stand a little while, then 
stew it until tender; boil the milk with 
the sugar in it, mix the starch with an 
additional teacup of milk, pour this in 
the boiling milk; beat the yolks, stir 
them in, then put in the pineapple, turn 
out into a pudding dish and bake. Use 
the II whites for angel cake. 

1066— GRAPE CUSTARD. 
Make the pineapple custard prepara- 
tion, when ready to bake add four cups 



of white grapes picked and washed, bake 
as usual; ser\'e cold with whipped cream. 

1067— PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE. 

I teacupful of brown sugar. 

As much of hot water. 

Yz teacup of butter. 

A tablespoonful of flour. 

Mix the flour and sugar together dry, 
pour the boiling water over and add the 
butter and stir briskly over the fire until 
it boils. 

1068— SIMPLE SYRUP. 

I lb. of sugar. 

I cup of water. 

Let it come to a boil in a bright clean 
sauce pan, skim and strain; keep 
ready to use. 

1069— PORT WINE SAUCE. 

I lb. of sugar. 

yi teacupful of water. 

I teacupful of port wine. 

6 cloves. 

Yz a small lemon. 

A piece of mace. 

Melt the sugar in the water on the fire, 
put in the spices and lemon cut in pieces, 
the bitter seeds must be removed, simmer 
ten minutes and remove from the fire, 
add the wine and strain. Sauce of any 
kind containing wine or liquor should 
not be boiled after these are added, as it 
will quickly evaporate. 

1070— RASPBERRY SAUCE. 

I lb. of sugar. 

I teacupful of raspberry juice. 

Yi teacupful of claret. 

A few drops of red coloring. 

Boil the sugar and water together, add 
the fruit juice and coloring, let come to 
a boil, skim and strain and add the claret. 

107 1— HARD SAUCE. 
Yz lb. of pulverized sugar, 
% lb. of butter. 
A grating of nutmeg. 
Cream the butter and sugar until they 
are perfectly white and grate a little nut- 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



177 



meg on top; the butter must be soft 
enough so that it will mix with the 
sugar. 

1072— BRANDY SAUCE FOR PLUM 
PUDDING. 
I lb of granulated sugar. 

1 cup of water. 

2 ozs. of fresh butter. 

A teaspoon ful of whole spice (mace, 
cloves, stick cinnamon, allspice. ) 

Boil together ten minutes and strain 
through a very fine strainer and add the 
juice of half a lemon, add a half cup of 
brandy and do not boil after the brandy 
is in, as it will evaporate quickly. 

1073— TRANSPARENT SAUCE. 
Made as the preceding recipe without 
the brandy. 



1074— SAUCE ARGENTEE. 

^ lb. of pulverized sugar. 

X lb. of butter. 

A basting spoonful of hot water. 

A basting spoonful of brandy. 

Warm the butter in a sauce pan, put 
in the sugar and cream it as for cake, then 
set it on the range and beat vigorously, 
pour in the brandy and water a little at 
a time, and when it is hot it is ready to 
serve; it should not boil or get more 
than hot, as it will destroy its whiteness. 



1075— LEMON SYRUP SAUCE. 

1% lbs. of sugar. 

Coffee cupful of water. 

2 lemons. 

Grate the rinds of the lemons and 
squeeze the juice without the bitter seeds, 
put in the water and sugar, boil up once 
and strain through a fine strainer. 

1076— ORANGE SYRUP SAUCE. 
I lb. of sugar. 

1 small lemon. 

2 teacupfuls of water. 
I large orange. 

Proceed as directed for lemon syrup 
sauce. 



1077— SABA YON SAUCE. 
I cup of sugar. 

1 cup of light sherry. 
10 yolk of eggs. 

Beat the yolks and sugar together in a 
deep sauce pan, set the sauce pan on the 
range and stir in the wine a little at a 
time, then whip the mixture to a thick 
foam, and it must not come to a boil until 
it is hot and slightly thickened. A table- 
spoonful of rum may be added if the 
sauce is to be served with plum pudding. 
Jt 

1078— FRENCH CUSTARD SAUCE. 
14. lb. of sugar. 

2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 

A teacupful of Madeira or sherry wine. 

A small half teaspoonf ul of ground cin- 
namon. 

Warm the butter and sugar together 
until they are white and creamy, add the 
cinnamon and eggs, set the mixture over 
the fire and keep stirring, pour in the 
wine a little at a time; whip vigorously 
until the sauce is frothy and thickened. 
This sauce should be made just before it 
is time to serve it. 

1079— PLAIN CUSTARD. 
I pint of milk. 

4 ozs. of sugar. 

5 yolks of eggs. 
Vanilla flavoring. 

Boil the sugar with the milk in it, mix 
the yolks of eggs with a basting spoonful 
of milk, beat them in, stir briskly and 
when it begins to boil take off immedi- 
ately and strain. 

1080— NEAPOLITAN SAUCE. 
yi lb. of sugar. 
A heaping tablespoonful of com starch, 

1 cup of water. 

A cup of thick sweet cream. 

2 basting spoonfuls of strawberry, or 
other red fruit syrup. 

A tablespoonful of mixed whole spices 
(cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg). 

Grated rinds of half a lemon and 
orange. 

A few drops each of vanilla, lemon, 
rose and almond extract. 



173 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Boil the sugar, water and whole spices 
together a few minutes, add the starch 
and red fruit syrup, strain, put in the 
cream and flavoring extracts last; do not 
boil it after the cream is in. 

1081— SAUCE ECARIyATE. 
12 ozs. of powdered sugar. 
Yt, as much of butter. 

1 cup of red fruit juice. 

Cream the butter and sugar, add the 
juice a little at a time as you would vine- 
gar to mayonnaise; keep in the refrige- 
rator until wanted. 

1082— HOT CREAM SAUCE. 

2 cups of cream. 

3 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 
A tablespoon ful of butter. 

A heaping tablespoonful of corn starch. 

1 nutmeg. 

Boil the cream with the nutmeg broken 
in it and the sugar; mix the starch with a 
little cold milk and stir it in; when 
cooked thick whip in the butter, and 
strain. 

1083— ANGELICA SAUCE. 

2 cups of sweet cream. 

2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 
I cup of Angelica wine. 
A few drops of vanilla extract. 
Partly whip the cream and mix in the 
wine, sugar and flavoring extract. 

1084— SULTANA SAUCE. 

Make the Transparent Sauce as directed 
in No. 1073; clean and wash a teacupful 
of seedless Sultana raisins; when the 
sauce is ready add the raisins and stew 
half an hour or so. 

.^ 

1085— ORDINARY WINE SAUCE. 

yi cup of sugar. 

A heaping tablespoonful of corn starch. 

A pint of water. 

Half a small lemon. 

A tablespoonful of butter. 

A few cloves. 

Yz cup of wine. 

Cut the lemon in pieces, boil it in the 
water; mix the sugar and starch together 
and stir them in when the water is boil- 
ing, boil five minutes, then stir in the 
butter, add the wine last, and strain. 



1086— LEMON CREAM SAUCE. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

A heaping tablespoonful of corn starch. 

A pint of water. 

A basting spoonful of fresh butter. 

The juice and rind of one lemon. 

3 yolks of eggs. 

Mix the grated rind of lemon, starch 
and sugar together; let the water come to 
a boil and add these dry ingredients, 
then the lemon juice and butter, let it 
boil again and beat in the yolks; as soon 
as the sauce begins to thicken take it 
from the fire and strain. 

1087— PINEAPPLE SAUCE. 

1 lb. of sugar. 

2 basting spoonfuls of pineapple juice 
or liquor from the cans. 

I teacupful of shredded pineapple. 

A teacupful of claret. 

Dissolve the sugar in the pineapple 
juice, let this come to a boil then strain, 
add the wine and shredded pineapple, 
keep hot in a double dish without boiling. 
If the sauce is desired a light pink color 
add a few drops of red coloring. 

1088— CURACOA SAUCE. 
Ordinary Curacoa as bought of the wine 
merchants simply made hot is certainly 
the best, but as it is rather expensive. A 
good imitation is made with a pint of 
Simple Syrup in which is boiled the 
grated rinds of two oranges and a dozen 
of cloves, strained, add a cup of brandy 
and colored with caramel. (See No. 7.) 

1089— MARASCHINO SAUCE. 
Make a pint of Simple Syrup as direct- 
ed in No. 1068, add to it two basting- 
spoonfuls of gin and flavor with extract 
of almond. This must be perfectly clear 
and colorless in imitation of the genuine 
maraschino. 

1090— MAPLE SYRUP SAUCE. 

I pint of maple sjTup. 

A piece of butter the size of an ^^^. 

Put the maple syrup in a saucepan on 
the range, when it is hot stir in the but- 
ter; when this is all whipped in keep the 
sauce hot without boiling. 



Jellies^ Blanc Manges^ Charlottes^ 
Bavarian Cream* 



1091— BLANC MANGE. 

I quart of milk. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

3 ozs. of corn starch. 

I tablespooiiful of melted butter. 

I pinch of salt. 

Flavoring extract. 

Boil the milk with the sugar in it, mix 
the starch with an extra cup of milk, stir 
it in when the milk is boiling, cook a min- 
ute then take off the fire, beat in the 
butter and flavoring, put the mixture in 
small cups previously wet with milk, 
when cold turn out from the cups and 
serve with whipped cream. 

1092— CORN STARCH JELLY. 

I quart of water. 

% lb. of sugar. 

I small lemon. 

3 tablespoonfuls of corn starch. 

Boil the water with the sugar in it, add 
the juice of the lemon, mix the corn 
starch with a half cup of water, stir it in 
the boiling water and sugar and let it 
boil about ten minutes, flavor with ex- 
tract of lemon, pour this in individual 
molds, when cold serve with whipped 
cream; this can be colored a delicate pink 
or yellow. 

1093— TAPIOCA JELLY. 

I pint of strained strawberry juice. 

A large cupful of water. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

A heaping basting spoonful of tapioca. 

Use crushed tapioca, steep it two hours 
with half the fruit juice, boil the rest of 
the juice with the sugar in it, boil the 
tapioca and let it cook slowly for fifteen 
minutes, then mix and put it in cups or 
individual moulds, and serve with 
French custard sauce. 



1094— GELATINE BLANC MANGE. 

I quart of milk. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

1 oz. of granulated gelatine. 

Flavoring extract. 

3 basting spoonfuls of cream. 

Boil the milk with the sugar and gela- 
tine in it and stir frequently until the 
gelatine is dissolved; it must not boil as 
it would curdle, strain into a bowl and 
when cool add the flavoring and the cup 
of cream, stir thoroughly and pour into 
individual molds; serve with whipped 
cream. 

1095— NEAPOLITAN BLANC MANGE. 
Make the gelatine blanc mange as 
directed in No. 1094; divide in three 
portions, color the first portion pink and 
flavor with strawberry juice, flavor the 
second with vanilla and the third color 
with one yolk of e.^^ and flavor with a 
grated orange rind; divide the pink por- 
tion in as many cups as needed so as n®t 
to fill more than a third, put in ns much 
of the white and fill up with the yellow; 
when cold turn out and serve with 
whipped cream in a saucer. 

1096— ALMOND BLANC MANGE. 

Yz lb. of sweet almonds. 

A basting spoonful of bitter almonds. 

8 ozs. of sugar. 

I pint of water. 

I oz. of granulated gelatine. 

I teacupful of cream. 

Blanch the almonds and pound them 
in a mortar, add part of the sugar and a 
little water, put this paste into a bowl 
with the rest of the sugar and water and 
let stand half an hour; dissolve the gela- 
tine in warm water, add it to the almond 



i8o 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



preparation, then the cream, and strain 
through a napkin, squeeze dry and set 
the blanc mange in individual moulds; 
serve with plain sweetened cream. 



1097— FLOATING ISLAND. 

I quart of vanilla custard. 

10 whites of eggs. 

I basting spoonful of granulated sugar. 

Extract of lemon for flavoring. 

Whip the whites of eggs firm enough 
to hold an egg, add the sugar, then drop 
by spoonfuls in a pan of boiling milk 
and water, set in the oven, let them cook 
a few minutes with the door open, turn 
them over with a skimmer so they will 
not brown ; serve them cold in a dish of 
custard. They may be colored pink, 
flavored with strawberry and served with 
a white custard; this must remain but a 
short time in the oven, otherwise they 
will shrink and spoil. 



1098— LEMON SNOW. 

I quart of water. 

I oz. of granulated gelatine. 

I lb. of sugar. 

Juice of four lemons. 

4 whites of eggs. 

Squeeze the lemon juice in the sugar, 
add the water and gelatine, set the sauce 
pan over the fire and stir the contents 
until the gelatine is all dissolved; strain 
it into a bowl, set in ice water and when 
it is nearly cold beat with a wire egg 
beater until it is frothy and light, whip 
the whites to a stiff froth and beat them 
in, beat the mixture till it sets, it will 
then be white and very light; serve with 
a good custard sauce made of 

% lb. of sugar. 

I quart of milk. 

6 yolks of eggs. 

Flavoring extract. 



1099— MOUSSE DE .VRUIT. 
Any kind of good fruit jelly can be 
warmed just enough to dissolve, whipped 
as directed for snow pudding, the same 
proportions being used; serve with sweet- 
ened cream. 



HOC— APPLE SNOW. 
I lb. of pared and cored apples (only 
fine mellow cooking apples can be used. ) 
I cup of water. 
I lemon. 
%. lb. of sugar. 

1 tablespoonful of butter. 

2 whole eggs. 

6 whites of eggs. 

Stew the apples with the sugar, water, 
lemon juice and butter, have a tight lid 
on the sauce pan and stew gently until 
they are tender, rub through a sieve, 
add two eggs to the pulp and cook the 
mixture about ten minutes or until it 
thickens; when cool flavor with cinna- 
mon and cloves, whip light and add the 
whites of eggs whipped firm, beat a few 
minutes longer; keep cold and serve with 
plain custard sauce. 

iioi— BAKED COCOANUT CUSTARD. 

I quart of milk. 

% lb. of sugar. 

I oz. of com starch. 

I tablespoonful of butter. 

4 eggs. 

% lb. of desiccated cocoanut. 

Boil the milk and sugar together, mix 
the corn starch in the bowl with a little 
additional cold milk, add it to the boil- 
ing contents of the sauce pan, remove 
immediately from the fire, as it must not 
boil again; beat in the butter, then the 
eggs and half the cocoanut; pour the 
custard into a baking dish, sprinkle the 
remainder of the cocoanut over the top, 
dredge with powdered sugar and bake 
until it has acquired a nice straw color- 
serve cold with cream or plain custard. 

1 102— PEACHES AND CREAM. 
Peel rich mellow peaches, slice them, 
spread a little pulverized sugar over them, 
ornament the edges with yellow and red 
peach slices, alternating with peach or 
lemon leaves; send to the table accom- 
panied with a dish of ice-cold sweetened 
whipped cream. 

1 103— STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM. 
Pick and clean the strawberries care- 
fully, cover them with sugar, the quan- 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



i8i 



tity to be used according to the acidity of 
the fruit; let remain in a cold place until 
•wanted; serve in the same way as peaches. 
Raspberries and small fruit are all 
served in a similar manner. 



1 104— MARASCHINO BAVARIAN 
CREAM. 

3 cups of milk, 

J cups of rich cream. 

% lb. of sugar. 

I oz. of granulated gelatine. 

yi cup of maraschino. 

Set the milk over the fire with the gela- 
tine in it, stir frequently until the gela- 
tine is all dissolved, but it must not boil; 
strain into a bowl, set into a pan of ice- 
water; when nearly cold whip the cream 
to a froth ; beat the mixture in the bowl 
in a like manner, mix the two and keep 
on beating until the mixture is white and 
set; the maraschino is added a little at a 
time while the last beating is going on. 



1 105— BAVARIAN CREAM WITH 
FRUIT. 

Bavarian cream makes a delicious des- 
sert served with compote of pears, 
peaches, fresh picked strawberries, etc. 
The cooked fruit should naturally be ice- 
cold; it is served by the spoonful in the 
same saucer with the cream. 



1 106— PLAIN BAVARIAN CREAM. 

3 cup of milk. 

I teacupful of cream. 

^ lb. of sugar. 

I oz. of granulated gelatine. 

3 whites of eggs. 

Extract for flavoring. 

Set the milk with the sugar and gela- 
tine in it over the fire and stir until the 
gelatine is all dissolved; it must not come 
to the boiling point; strain in a bowl, 
placed in a pan of ice-water and when 
nearly cold whip it ten minutes, add the 
whites of eggs whipped firm, beat a few 
minutes longer; flavor while giving it the 
last beating. 



1 107— STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN 

CREAM. 
2 cups of rich cream. 
% lb. of sugar. 

2 cups of strawberries. 

I >^ ozs. of granulated gelatine. 

Dissolve the gelatine in one cup of 
cream and one of milk, mash the straw- 
berries through a sieve and add half of 
the sugar; whip the cream and remaining 
sugar together, when it is to a froth mix 
in the gelatine then the strawberry pulp 
and set on ice in fancy molds. 

Another way is to line the mold with 
strawberries dipped in melted jelly just 
enough to make them stick to the mold, 
set this in ice-water and fill up with the 
cream mixture. 

1108— CREME ITALIENNE. 
1% pints of cream. 
% lb. of sugar. 
8 yolks of eggs. 
I oz. of granulated gelatine. 
The rind of one orange. 

3 basting spoonfuls of Madeira. 
Dissolve the gelatine in a little milk; 

boil one pint of the cream with the sugar 
and orange rind grated in it; beat the 
yolks slightly and pour them in the boil- 
ing mixture, take off the fire immediately 
and pour into a bowl placed in a pan of 
ice- water; when cool put in the gelatine 
and beat until light; whip the remainder 
of the cream to a froth'and stir it in, whip 
a few minutes longer and add the Ma- 
deira; whip until set. 

1 109— BAKED BANANAS. 
Peel the bananas and cut them in 
halves lengthwise, lay them on a baking 
pan, strew over some sugar and small 
pieces of butter and bake them iti a 
moderate oven about thirty minutes; 
mix a basting spoonful of butter with 
two of plain syrup and baste the bananas 
with this mixture several times when 
they are baking, so they will come out 
glazed; serve immediately. 

mo— CRISPED APPLES. 
Pare and core some nice cooking 
apples, steep them three hours in thick 



l82 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKKRY. 



sugar and water syrup flavored with 
grated lemon rind, then take them out 
and roll in flour until they are well 
coated, fry them in hard lard; serve with 
apple dumpling sauce. 

II II— PINEAPPLE SALAD. 
I large ripe pineapple. 

1 coffee cupful of powdered sugar. 

3 basting spoonfuls of maraschino. 
Pare the pineapple and slice it thin, 

cover it with the sugar, let it stand an 
hour and a half, and when ready to serve 
pour over the maraschino. 

II 1 2— RICE CAKE. 

4 cups of dry cooked rice. 

2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 

2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 

3 yolks of eggs. 
Vanilla extract. 

Mix all the ingredients together, spread 
it an inch deep in a buttered pan and 
bake in a quick oven, cut out in squares 
and serve with fruit jelly. 

II 13— RICE CAKE WITH COMPOTE 
OF FRUIT. 
Make the rice cake preparation as de- 
scribed in the preceding recipe; serve 
with compote of figs, apples, green-gages 
or any other. 

S 
1 114— FRIARS OMELET. 

1 pint of baked apple pulp. 
3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

2 basting spoonfuls of cream. 

3 eggs. 

I pint of bread crumbs. 

Mash the apple, add the melted butter, 
sugar and a grating of nutmeg, beat the 
eggs and cream together, add them to 
the apple mixture, spread soft butter 
inside of a mould, press all the finely 
grated bread crumbs that can stick to it, 
pour in the mixture, cover the top with 
bread crumbs moistened with melted 
butter and bake until set, turn it out of 
the mould very carefully and serve with 
vanilla custard or whipped cream. 



1 115— INDIVIDUAL CHARLOTTE. 

Make the friar omelet mixture, bake 
it in deep gem pans; when done frost 
over with meringue paste and bake to a 
straw color in the open oven. 

1 1 16— HUNGARIAN CHARLOTTE. 
(Individual.) 

Slightly grease with olive oil as many 
custard cups as needed, spread lady 
fingers with fruit jelly (red currant pre- 
ferred), place two together and cut them 
lengthwise in three pieces; line the cus- 
tard cups with these, dipping the edges 
in iceing to make them stick together, 
the smooth sides touching the edges of 
the cup; make custard as directed for 
French custard, adding an ounce of 
gelatine soaked in half a teacup of cold 
water, flavor the custard with lemon or 
vanilla; when it is cold and nearly set 
pour it in the custard cups, put the cups 
in the refrigerator and when perfectly 
cold and solid turn them out; serve a 
spoonful of whipped cream on top of 
each charlotte. 

II 1 7— APPLE CHARLOTTE. 

20 thin slices of parkerhouse rolls. 

I pint of clean pared apples. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

6 ozs. of butter. 

I egg. 

Grated nutmeg. 

Stew the apple with the sugar and a 
cup of water, with the steam shut in, 
when done mash with a spoon and add 
the grated nutmeg; dip the slices of rolls 
in the melted butter; line the bottom and 
sides of a bright pan and put in the 
mashed apple, put on top more slices of 
the buttered rolls slightly pressed into the 
apples; bake until they acquire a nice 
brown color, then brush over with egg 
and water, dredge with a basting spoon- 
ful of sugar and bake ten minutes more 
to glaze; serve with sweetened cream. 

1 1 18— STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE. 
(Individual.) 
12 ozs. of granulated sugar. 
8 eggs. 
3 basting spoonfuls of water. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



183 



9 ozs. of flour. 

Separate the eggs, beat the yolks, sugar 
and water vigorously together, whip the 
whites to a stiff froth, mix the flour and 
beaten yolks, then mix the whites lightly; 
spread this batter on a sheet of paper very 
thin and bake in a quick oven; it will 
bake in about five minutes; brush the pa- 
per with water and pull it off the cake. 
Cut the cake in pieces to fit the paper 
cases made as directed in Part V of this 
book so as to line them ; cut a round piece 
to fit the bottom and fill the charlottes 
with cream made as follows: 

I pint of strawberries. 

3 cupfuls of thick sweet cream. 

I cup of sugar. 

y^ package of Knox's gelatine. 

Cover the fruit with the sugar, let it 
stand a little while and mash thoroughly 
and rub through a sieve; dissolve the 
gelatine in an additional cup of milk; 
when it is dissolved put the cream in a 
bowl, whip it to a froth, add the gelatine 
and place the dish in a pan of ice-water 
and continue whipping a few minutes, 
then add the strawberry pulp, whip two 
minutes longer and when it is almost 
ready to set fill the individual Charlottes; 
keep in the refrigerator until ready to 
serve. 



1 1 19— CHOCOLATE CREAM. 

I quart of milk. 

y-2, lb. of sugar. 

1 oz. of granulated gelatine. 

I basting spoonful of grated chocolate. 

7 yolks of eggs. 

4 whites. 

I cup of cream. 

Vanilla extract. 

Boil the milk with the sugar, choco- 
late and gelatine in it, stir vmtil all is 
dissolved; when the milk comes to a boil 
add the beaten yolks, boil a minute 
longer and strain into a bowl set in a pan 
of ice water, add the cup of cream and 
vanilla, beat up until it is almost set, 
then add the whites whipped firm and 
beat a few minutes longer, serve with 
whipped cream sweetened and flavored 
with vanilla. 



1120— PISTACHIO CREAM. 
Make the plain Bavarian cream and 
add to it half a pound of almonds 
blanched and split, pounded to a paste 
in the mortar with a little water, rub 
through a sieve and mix with the Bava- 
rian mixture while being cooled, colored 
green and set in a fancy mould; serve 
with whipped cream all around. 

1 121— ROSE BAVARIAN CREAM. 

Make the plain Bavarian cream, flavor 
it with extract of rose and color it a 
delicate pink. 

1 1 22— CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

Line a small round tin pan, if a long 
narrow mold made for the purpose is not 
procurable, with lady fingers all trimmed 
of equal length, dip the edges of the lady 
fingers in whites of eggs mixed with a 
little pulverized sugar and place them 
side by side over-lapping each other; then 
make sufficient Bavarian cream — any of 
the preceding recipes, but the plain va- 
nilla flavor preferred — and fill the 
mold just when the cream mixture begins 
to set. Set the charlotte in the refrigera- 
tor until it is firm and cold. When ready 
to serve place a large plate over the char- 
lotte, turn it up-side down, remove the 
dish it has set in, and place instead the 
dish in which the charlotte is to be 
serv^ed, turn it over so that the charlotte 
russe is placed as it was in the first dish, 
ornament the edges with small piping 
patterns of cake iceing, and the top with 
bright colored jelly. 
.^ 

1 123— INDIVIDUAL CHARLOTTE 
RUSSE. 

Trim 3 or 4 thin lady fingers; line the 
inside of a custard cup; fill with any of 
the Bavarian creams; place them in a cold 
place to set solid; when ready to serve 
turn them out on a platter, put a spoonful 
of whipped cream on top. 

1 124— CHARLOTTE PARISIENNE. 

Cut thin slices of sponge cake in squares 
and dip each one of them by means of a 
fork in iceing variously flavored and 
colored. Line plain drum shaped molds 



i84 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



with these various colored squares of 
sponge cake, dip the edges in melted 
candy to make them stick together, the 
glazed side against the sides 6f the mold, 
fill up with any of the Bavarian cream 
mixtures and when cold turn it out and 
send to the table as directed for large 
charlotte russe. 



1 1 25— STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE. 
Line a fancy jelly mold with even sized 
strawberries dipped in melted jelly to 
make them stick to the mold; set the 
mold in ice-water to facilitate the opera- 
tion; when set solid fill with any of the 
Bavarian cream preparations, the straw- 
berry No. 1 107 preferred. Serve with 
strawberries all around in the dish. 



1 126— JELLIES. 
All jellies are started in the same way 
with the plain jelly afterward flavored 
and colored in various ways; this we will 
call stock jelly to shorten and facilitate 
the following recipes. 

1 127— STOCK JELLY. 
2 quarts of water. 
2}4 ozs. of gelatine. 

1 lb. of sugar. 

2 lemons. 

I tablespoonful of whole mixed spices. 

3 whites of eggs and the shells if clean. 
Put the water in a kettle with all the 

ingredients, the lemon juice squeezed in 
without the seeds, the rind pared very 
thin and the whites of eggs beaten in a 
little cold water; set the kettle at the 
side of the range and let it slowly dis- 
solve and come to a boil, stir occasionally 
to prevent the gelatine from sticking to 
the bottom; be sure that the whites of 
the eggs are thoroughly cooked, other- 
wise the jelly will have a milky appear- 
ance. 

1 1 28— CHAMPAGNE JELLY. 

Dissolve six ounces of sugar in half a 

cup of water and a package of Knox's 

gelatine in as much water, then beat 

over the fire until thoroughly dissolved. 



strain this dissolved gelatine into a pint 
of champage in a large bowl, set it on 
ice and when it is ready to set take out a 
teacupful and beat it with a wire egg 
beater two minutes, return this froth to 
the bowl, stir once or twice and let it 
solidify. This is one of the finest and 
costliest jellies. Can be set in a fancy 
mould. 



1 1 29— WINE JELLY. 
Take a quart of jelly made as directed 
in No. 1 127, add halt a pint of wine and 
a little coloring if necessary, make it a 
deep red, when ready set in a cold place 
to solidify. 



1130— RUSSIAN JELLY. 
Take a quart of jelly made as directed 
in No. 1 1 27, when it is ready to set add 
half a coffee cupful of strong tea and as 
much of wine and brandy mixed, and 
half a lemon sliced as thin as possible, 
pour in the mold and let it solidify. 



1131— SODA WATER JELLY. 
Make two quarts of jelly as directed in 
No. 1 127, separate in four portions, flavor 
and color each in a different manner, one 
with vanilla colored with caramel, another 
with strawberry colored pink, another 
with lemon colored pale yellow, and one 
deep red flavored with wine; strain these 
again through a jelly bag; after they are 
colored and flavored partly fill thin stem 
glasses, set them in the refrigerator to 
cool and solidify; beat to a foam two cups 
of jelly with a wire egg beater until it is 
partly frothed and then add the whites 
of two eggs whipped firm and continue 
beating until the jelly begins to set, then 
fill the glasses, piling them up as high as 
possible with this white froth, and place 
them in the refrigerator to set; ser\-e very 
cold. 



1132— ORANGE JELLY. 
Squeeze the juice of one orange in a 
bowl, shave the rind very thin ; boil half 
a pound of sugar with a half pint of 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



185 



water and pour this syrup over the orange 
peel and juice; dissolve an ounce of 
granulated gelatine in a cup of water, 
let the syrup stand half an hour, strain 
it and make hot again and strain through 
a flannel over the dissolved gelatine. 



1 133— VARIOUS FRUIT JELLIES. 

Can be made as directed for orange 
jelly, the proportion of sugar varying 
according to the acidity of the fruit; the 
quantity of jelly remaining the same, an 
ounce and a half to a quart of water. 






Cakes^ Cream Puf f s^ Meringues^ Cookies^ Etc* 



JJ34— ANGEL FOOD, 

II whites of eggs. 

lo ozs. of granulated sugar. 

5 ozs. flour. 

2 rounded teaspoonfuls of cream of 
tartar. 

Almond or vanilla flavoring. 

Mix the cream of tartar in the flour by 
sifting several times; whip the whites 
firm enough to bear an egg, put in the 
sugar, beat a few seconds more, add the 
flavoring and stir the flour in a little at a 
time without beating, when the flour is 
mixed fairly out of sight put the cake in 
a mold made for the purpose and bake it 
carefully in a slack oven, it will take from 
twenty -five to thirty minutes; the molds 
made purposely have a large tube in the 
center; the mold should never be greased. 
When the cake is done turn it upside 
down, the edge of the mold resting on 
pans or anything convenient so as to let 
the cold air circulate under, when cold it 
will probably come out of its own weight, 
if not, pass a thin bladed knife all around, 
and it will drop out. If the cake has a 
very even bake it may be used without 
glazing; otherwise it may be glazed with 
a pearl glaze as directed alsewhere. 



n35-SPONGE CAKE. 

I lb. of granulated sugar. 

8 eggs. 

}i teacup of water. 

12 ozs. flour. 

Separate the eggs, put the water and 
sugar in the yolks, beat fifteen minutes, 
it will then have the appearance of a 
thick foamy batter; whip the whites to a 
very stiff froth, mix the flour with the 
yolk mixture and stir the whites in last, 
bake in large or small moulds or in patty 
pans; may be glazed or used plain. 



n36-WHITE JELLY ROLL. 

A fine white roll ; a good cake for Char- 
lotte Russe lining. 

ID ozs. granulated sugar. 

13 whites of eggs. 

6 ozs. flour. 

2 rounded teaspoonfuls of cream of 
tartar. 

Flavoring extract. 

Put the sugar and whites into a mixing 
bowl, beat them together with a wire egg 
whisk for twenty-five minutes; add the 
cream of tartar and flavoring extract, 
beat a few minutes longer, stir in the 
flour with a wooden spoon ; lay a sheet of 
manila paper on a large baking sheet, 
spread just thick enough to hide the pa- 
per; will bake in about eight minutes; 
the paper should not be greased, but 
when the cake is done turn it over on the 
table and brush the paper with ice-water, 
it can then be removed very easily; 
spread with jelly, orange or lemon honey. 



n37— SNOV CAKE. 

14 ozs. granulated sugar. 

12 ozs. fresh butter. 

18 whites of eggs. 

^ lb. of flour. 

10 ozs. corn starch. 

^ cup of milk. 

Flavoring extract. 

The juice of one small lemon. 

A basting spoonful of brandy. 

Cream the butter and sugar together; 
when creamed sufficiently it has the 
appearance of double or thick cream; 
add the whites three at a time, when 
these are all in add the starch and flour, 
next the lemon juice, flavoring extract 
and milk; beat all together five minutes 
and bake in angel cake moulds or ordi- 
nary iQoulds. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



187 



n38— CHOCOLATE CAKE. 

Melt three ounces of ordinary bakers' 
chocolate; make the snow cake mixture, 
flavor it with an additional tablespoon- 
ful of vanilla, mix in the melted choco- 
late just before you put in the milk, 

n39— WINE CAKE. 
Make the snow cake mixture, but 
leave out the milk, which should be 
replaced by a teacupful of old Port wine; 
color the cake with a drop of red color- 
ing so the cake will have a pale pink 
color. 

I HO— DELICATE CAKE. 
14 ozs. of granulated sugar. 
^ lbs. of fresh butter. 

13 whites of eggs. 
}4 lb. of flour. 

^ lb. of corn starch. 

Juice of half a lemon. 

Tablespoonful of flavoring extract. 

^ cup of milk. 

Tablespoonful of brandy. 

Cream the butter and sugar together; 
add the whites three at a time, then the 
starch and flour, next put in the lemon 
juice, milk, flavoring and brandy; beat 
all together five minutes and bake in the 
usual way. 

1141— LADY CAKE. 

14 ozs. sugar. 
^ lb. butter. 

13 whites of eggs. 

I lb. of flour. 

Tablespoonful of flavoring extract. 

)4 teacupful of milk. 

Juice of one lemon. 

If possible use some uncolored dairy 
butter. Warm the sugar and butter 
slightly and cream them ; add the whites 
of the eggs two at a time, after that the 
flour; beat the mixture thoroughly five 
minutes, after the flour is in mix in the 
lemon juice, flavoring extract and milk. 



1142— ALMOND CAKE. 
Make the cake mixture No. 1141, add 
to it a pound of almonds blanched and 



split, flavor either with rose or almond 
extract; dust the almonds with flour and 
stir them in the cake mixture. 



n43-HICKORY NUT CAKE. 

j4 lb. sugar. 
}i lb. butter. 

9 whites of eggs. 
J4 cupful of milk. 

I teaspoonful of baking powder. 

I lb. flour. 

12 ounces hickory nuts. 

Cream the butter and sugar in the 
usual way and add the whites of eggs 
two at a time, then add the milk, flour 
and powder, mix thoroughly, beat hard 
five minutes, dust the nuts with flour 
and mix them in. 

n44-'WHITE CAKE. 

1 lb. of sugar. 
}i lb. of butter. 

10 whites of eggs. 
A cupful of milk. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
i}4 lbs. of flour. 

Cream the butter aud sugar, add the 
whites three at a time, then the milk, 
powder, flour and flavoring extract, bake 
in jelly cake pans; select some fruit or 
other filling and spread between the 
cakes, glaze the top with icing to match 
the filling. 



1145- AUSTRIAN CAKE. 

Make the cake mixture No. 1141, add 
to it 

2 ozs. of melted chocolate. 

yi lb. of figs chopped fine. 

% lb. almonds, blanched and split. 

X lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 

Flavor the batter with a basting spoon- 
ful of brandy; dust the fruit plentifully 
with flour, and stir it in. 



JJ46-MARBLE CAKE. 

Make the lady cake mixture No. 1141; 
when the batter is ready take out a tea- 
cupful and color it light red; grease the 
cake mold, shake flour into it, then 
throw out the surplus flour, thus leaving 



i88 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



the mold thinly coated with flour; drop 
lumps of cake batter in the mold with a 
teaspoon, spread this very lightly with a 
knife dipped in the colored batter, taking 
care not to smooth the lumps; drop more 
spoonfuls of the cake mixture in the 
hollows and spread them as before and 
keep on until the mold is filled to within 
an inch of the top. Chocolate and 
white cake can be used in the same way. 

J H7— ORDINARY CAKE. 

1 lb. of sugar. 
5 eggs. 

ylt, lb. of butter. 
Yz pint of milk. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
xYz lbs. of flour. 

Beat the sugar and eggs together five 
minutes; melt the butter and beat it in, 
add the milk, then the powder thor- 
oughly mixed with the flour and beat 
five minutes longer, flavor to taste; bake 
in jelly cake or shallow pans. 

JJ48-WHITE JELLY CAKES. 

Made as the preceding recipe, using 
the whites of twelve eggs instead of the 
whole eggs; bake in jelly cake pans; 
spread jelly between the layers, or still 
better pastry cream, nut or fruit filling. 



1149— POUND CAKE. 

14 ozs. of sugar. 

% lb. of- butter. 

ID eggs. 

I lb. flour. 

Warm the butter and sugar together 
and work them with your hand until 
they are creamy and white, add the eggs 
two at a time and the flour in six por- 
tions; beat the batter very hard after all 
the ingredients are in. This mixture is 
used for a great variety of other cakes 
mentioned in the following directions. 

nSO— POUND FRUIT CAKE. 

Add to the pound cake mixture No. 

1 149 one teaspoonful of mixed ground 

spices, cinnamon, mace, allspice and 

nutmeg; a half pound each of raisins, 



currants and citron, the juice and grated 
rind of one lemon ; mix the fruit together 
and dust it with plenty of flour, stir them 
in the batter and bake in molds lined 
with buttered paper; it will be baked in 
about one and a half hours. 



IJ5t-CITRON CAKE. 

Make the pound cake mixture and add 
to it half a pound of shredded citron 
and half a teaspoonful of lemon extract. 

U52— SMALL POUND CAKES. 

(Drop Cakes.) 
Mix the pound cake mixture No. 1149; 
add to it half a cup of flour mixed with 
a teaspoonful of baking powder; place 
spoonfuls on greased baking pans as 
evenly distributed as possible; bake in 
the oven from five to ten minutes; a slice 
of citron, currants or granulated sugar 
on top make the variety of sponge drops 
seen in the bakeries. 

1153— POUND LAYER CAKE. 
-. Make the pound cake mixture No. 
1 149, bake it on five jelly cake pans, 
spread each with any kind of cake icing, 
pile them on top of each other, trim the 
edges, frost the top and sides and deco- 
rate with English walnut meat or dates 
stoned and split in two. 

U54— LAFAYETTE CAKE. 

Make half the pouud cake mixture 
No. 1 149, bake it in two shallow pans of 
equal size; spread rich gooseberry jelly 
on one, put the other on top and ice it 
over, mark the icing before it is quite 
cool, and when the cake is cool cut it in 
squares; cut it with a sharp knife, giving 
it a down stroke to make a nice clear 
cut. 

1155— DREAM CAKE. 
I lb. of sugar. 
>^ lb. of fresh butter. 
Whites of twelve eggs. 

1 cup of milk. 

2 rounding teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



189 



I rounded teaspoonful of cream of tar- 
tar. 

Flavoring extract. 

I lb. of flour. 

Sift the flour, powder and cream of 
tartar together five or six times, soften 
the butter and cream it with the sugar 
until it is almost white, stir in the milk 
gradually, alternating with a handful of 
flour to keep the mixture from separat- 
ing; whip the whites stiff enough to hold 
up an egg, then add the whites and 
remaining flour alternately until all is 
in; flavor and bake in ordinary molds or 
shallow pans. 



n56— QUEEN CAKE. 

Make the lady cake mixture No. 1141, 
omitting the milk, and add 

I lb. green candied citron. 

8 ozs. blanched almonds. 

Yz lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 

% cup of Madeira wine. 

Shred the citron very fine, dust with 
flour together with the almonds and 
raisins before mixing in. 

IJ57-JELLY ROLL. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

6 eggs, 

8 ozs. flouf . 

3 basting spoonfuls of luke-warm water. 

A piece of soda the size of a lima bean. 

Flavoring extract. 

Beat the eggs and sugar together until 
thick and foamy and it has increased to 
abovit three times its original volume; 
dissolve the soda in the water, add 
gradually while beating, stir in the flour 
gradually and bake on a sheet of buttered 
manila paper; cook it in a moderate oven; 
when done if the paper does not come off 
easily, brush it with cold water; spread 
jelly on the cake and roll up and brush 
over with sweetened water flavored with 
orange rind, then roll it in powdered 
sugar and set it in a warm place where 
the sugar coating will dry. 

n58— APPLE CAKE. 
Spread in a pan a sheet of coffee cake 
dough No. 853, cut the apples in thin 



slices and stick them in edgewise, let it 
rise a half or three-quarters of an hour; 
bake in a slack oven. 



U59— FRUIT CAKE No. \, 
2 lbs. of sugar. 

1 Yi lbs. of butter. 
A dozen of eggs. 

2 lbs. of flour. 

Yz teacupful of wine. 

Yt teacupful of brandy. 

Yz oz. of grated nutmeg. 

5 lbs. of raisins. 

4 lbs. of currants. 

2 lbs. of citron. 

I lb. of figs. 

Mix the sugar, butter, eggs and flour 
as directed for pound cake, add the liquor 
and nutmeg, the fruit must be well dusted 
with flour then mixed in the batter; line 
the molds with buttered paper, fill, then 
cover with another piece cut so it will fit 
inside of the mold, place the cake molds 
in the center of a sheet of wrapping pa- 
per, gather it on top, tie with twine and 
bake from two and a half to three hours 
according to the size of the cake. 



n6c^FRUlT CAKE No. 2. 

I lb. of sugar. 

xYz ft»s. of butter. 

10 eggs. 

i^ lbs. of flour. 

I Yi K^s. of raisins. 

I Yz l^s. of currants. 

I R). of citron. 

Yz lb. of blanched almonds. 

^ R). of figs. 

A basting spoonful of mixed ground 
spices. 

A teacupful of brandy. 

A teacupful of Madeira wine. 

Juice of one lemon. 

Grated rind of one orange. 

Mix the sugar, butter, eggs and flour 
as directed for pound cake, cut the figs, 
split the blanched almonds and mix with 
the rest of the fruit, dust plentifully with 
flour, add the brandy, wine, lemon juice 
and grated rinds to the batter, then the 
floured fruit; bake in molds lined with 
buttered paper as directed for fruit cake 
No. i; will bake in from one to three 



190 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



hours according to the size of the cake. 
The brandy and wine can be omitted, and 
a cup of water strongly flavored with va- 
nilla used instead. 

116 J— ROYAL ENGLISH FRUIT 
CAKE. 

14 ozs. of sugar. 

14 ozs. of butter. 

A dozen eggs. 

lyi lbs. of flour. 

I teacupful of black coffee. 

A teacupful of reboiled molasses. 

A teacupful of brandy. 

A tablespoonful of extract of orange. 

3 ozs. of mixed ground cinnamon, 
cloves, nutmeg and mace. 

2% tt's. of seedless raisins. 

2yi R)s. of currants. 

i^ R)s. of citron. 

}i lb. of blanched almonds. 

A pound of figs. 

Mix the butter, sugar, eggs and flour 
as directed for pound cake, then add the 
spices, coffee, molasses, brandy and ex- 
tract, dust well the fruit and almonds 
with flour and mix them in, the citron 
should be shredded very fine. Line the 
molds with buttered paper and bake as 
directed for fruit cake No. i; they will 
bake in two or three hours according to 
the size of the cake. This cake does not 
rise very much so the molds if wanted 
full can be almost filled with the mixture. 

Any of the three preceding fruit-cakes 
will not taste good while fresh, but will 
be at their best if kept from ten to fifteen 
days before using. Any of the other 
previous mentioned recipes may be used 
for decorated wedding cakes, etc., as 
their delicious nature and their solidity 
and compactness allow the artist to orna- 
ment and decorate to his heart's content. 

1 162— FRUIT CAKE No. 4- 
I lb. of seedless raisins. 

1 lb. of currants. 
% lb. of sugar. 
% lb. of butter. 
^ lb. of molasses. 

2 eggs. 

% pint of sour milk. 
A teaspoonful of soda. 



1% lbs. of flour. 

Cream the butter and sugar, add the 
eggs, then the molasses and milk, beat 
all together thoroughly, mix the soda 
in the flour, put that in and beat again, 
dust the fruit with flour, mix it with the 
batter and bake in shallow pans lined 
with buttered paper. 

n 63— WATER SPONGE CAKE. 

7 ozs. of granulated sugar. 
% cupful of water, 

4 eggs. 

%• lb. of flour. 

A teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Separate the eggs, put the yolks in a 
mixing bowl with the sugar and water, 
beat about twenty minutes, until the 
mixture is thick and foamy; mix the 
powder with the flour and sift several 
times; whip the whites to a stiff froth; 
stir the flour in the bowl with the yolk 
mixture; when this is done add the 
whites. This mixture is good baked in 
small round cake molds or oblong pans 
joined together as muSin tins, or else 
baked in a large shallow pan; glaze over 
and cut in squares when cold. 

1164— PISTACHIO CAKE. 

%, lb. of pistachio nuts blanched and 
minced. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

% cup of water. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

Whites of four eggs. 

Boil the sugar and water to thick syrup, 
throw in the butter, then the pistachio 
nuts, boil four minutes then stir in the 
whites of eggs, take it off when slightly 
thickened, color it green; let it cool and 
use this for filling between three sheets 
of snow cake; baked in jelly cake pans. 

1165— TWIN ANGEL CAKE. 

8 whites of eggs. 

I Y cups of granulated sugar. 

I cup of flour. 

A small teaspoonful of baking powder. 

A teaspoonful of flavoring extract. 

Beat the whites of Qgg to a stiff froth, 
add the sugar, beat a minute longer; stir 
the flour and baking powder thoroughly 



:k» J 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



191 



together, and add the flavoring then the 
flour, stir lightly until the flour has dis- 
appeared, bake in angel cake mold; do 
not grease the tins. 



JJ66-TWIN GOLD CAKE. 

1 cup of granulated sugar. 
A small half cup of butter. 
8 yolks of eggs. 

yi cup of sweet milk. 
\%, cups of flour. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
Cream the butter and sugar until very 

light and white, beat the yolks separately 
a few minutes and stir them in with the 
creamed butter and sugar, add the milk 
then the flour and baking powder, bake 
at once in a moderate oven. 

The advantage of making gold and 
twin angel cakes instead of the regular, is 
that the twin angel and gold cakes each 
take the exact number of yolks and 
whites, so that there is no waste of egg 
yolk. 



IJ67— JELLY CAKE. 

2 eggs. 

I cup of sweet milk. 

1 Yz cups of sugar. 

3 cups ot flour. 

3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
Beat the eggs and sugar until well 

blended, add the butter, then the milk, 
flour and baking powder; bake in jelly 
cake pans, and when cool spread currant 
or other jelly between, and icing on top. 



U68-BANANA CAKE. 

1 Yz cups of sugar. 
%. cup of butter. 

2 eggs. 

1 cup of sweet milk. 

2 cups of flour. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

3 bananas. 

Mix the flour and baking powder 
thoroughly; cream the sugar and butter, 
add the milk, then the eggs well beaten, 
and lastly the flour; bake in jelly cake 
pans. Spread the cakes with an icing 



made of sweet cream thickened with pow- 
dered sugar. Slice the bananas thin and 
spread a thick layer on the icing; pile 
the layers and finish by spreading with 
icing and sliced bananas. Enough 
sugar should be stirred into the cream so 
that it will not run when spread on the 
cake. 



^ 



1 169— WALNUT CAKE. 

I lb. of sugar. 

Yz lb. of butter. 

Yz pt. of sweet milk. 

I lb. of flour. 

3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

A teaspoonful of almond extract. 

Whites of 8 eggs. 

Cream the sugar and butter, add the 
milk gradually, stir in half of the flour 
and the almond extract; beat the eggs to 
a stiff froth, add them to the mixture, 
and lastly the remainder of the flour; 
bake in a large pan so that the cake will 
not be more than two inches thick; when 
done ice it and lay on top English wal- 
nut meats in regular rows two inches 
apart each way, and cut between making 
neat trimmed squares. Half of the cake 
might be glazed white and the other 
pink, thus making a variety for the cake 
basket. 



1 170— JELLY ROLL No. 2. 

7 ozs. granulated sugar. 

6 eggs. 

6 ozs. flour. 

A basting spoonful of brandy. 

A teaspoonful of flavoring extract. 

Beat the sugar and eggs together in a 
cool place about twenty-five minutes; stir 
in the flour with a spoon, and last the 
extract and brandy; stir the flour in just 
enough to get it out of sight. Grease a 
baking sheet or shallow pan, spread the 
batter over as thin as possible, bake in a 
hot oven five minutes; detach the sides 
by running a knife down the sides 
of the pan, turn it upside down upon 
a wooden table, spread with currant jelly 
and roll the cake up, then roll it in a 
sheet of manila paper until wanted. 



192 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



1171— GENOESE CAKE. 
6 ozs. sugar. 

6 ozs. butter. 

7 eggs. 

lo ozs. flour. 

2 basting spoonfuls of milk. 

A teaspoonful of baking powder. 

A teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Cream the butter and sugar together, 
add the eggs two at a time, put in the 
milk, flour and powder, beat vigorously 
for a few minutes, and bake in any kind 
of mold or jelly cake pans. A good, 
serviceable cake easily frosted and cheap. 

Jit 

n72— NEAPOLITAN CAKE. 

Make the ordinary cake mixture as 
directed in No. 1147, divide it into four 
parts, leave one part plain, color the 
others pink, yellow and chocolate; bake 
in thin sheets so that after the baking 
they will not be more than an inch thick; 
when done pile tne four layers one on top 
the other, spreading jelly between; ice 
over with vanilla icing, ornament with 
pink stripes. 

J 173— SPICE CAKES. 

}4 lb. of molasses. 

3 ozs. of sugar. 
•4: lb. of butter. 
I cup of milk. 

3 eggs. 

j4 oz. of ginger. 

I teaspoonful of baking powder. 

I lb. of flour. 

Melt the butter and warm the milk, 
pour in the molasses and sugar, mix 
thoroughly, then add the eggs, ginger, 
baking powder and flour, give the mix- 
ture a good beating and bake in a shal- 
low pan. 



n74— SPONGE CAKE. 

14 ozs. of sugar. 

12 eggs. 

^ lb. of flour. 

Put the eggs and sugar together in a 
mixing bowl, set this in a pan of ice 
water, beat the mixture vigorously for 
half a hour, then stir in the flour lightly 



and bake in shallow pans. Also good 
for small cakes, lady fingers, jelly rolls 
and small Italian cakes described else- 
where. 



1 1 75— APPLE CREAM CAKE. 

I lb. of flour. 

12 ozs. of butter. 

2>^ cups of water. 

Rub the butter and flour together as 
you would for baking powder biscuits; 
make a hollow in the middle of the flour, 
pour in the water and mix to a soft 
dough, roll out on the table, cut out the 
thickness of biscuits and bake in a 
shallow pan ; when done split open and 
spread apple cream between and pow- 
dered sugar on top. 



Ji 



1 1 76— MACAROON CAKE. 

j4 lb. of sugar. 

)4 lb. of butter. 

3 eggs. 

l4 teacupful of milk. 

}4 teaspoonful of baking powder. 

I lb. of flour. 

Cream the butter and sugar, add the 
eggs one at a time, then the milk, most 
of the flour with the baking powder 
thoroughly mixed in; knead the dough 
on the table, using the rest of the flour 
until it can be rolled out as thin as for 
cookies, cut the size of the baking pan 
and bake a light color; before it is just 
done take it out and place cords of maca- 
roon paste with a forcing sack and tube, 
diagonally across to make diamond 
shaped hollows, using a quarter of an 
inch tube; bake in a very slack oven 
until the top is light brown; when it is 
perfectly cold place jelly with a tea- 
spoon in the hollows between the 
cords of macaroon paste. Make the 
macaroon paste out of 

6 ozs. of grated cocoanut. 

^4- lb. of sugar. 

The white of one egg. 

Orange extract. 

Beat the white of the egg and sugar 
together untiljyou have a stiff icing, 
then add the cocoanut and extract. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



193 



1 1 77— SUNSHINE CAKE, , 

10 ozs. of sugar. 

Yz lb. of flour. 

I teaspoonful of baking powder. 

I cupful of yolks of eggs. 

I cupful of whites of eggs. 

Cream the yolks and sugar, beat the 
whites to a stiff froth and mix them with 
the yolk mixture, put in the flour and 
powder thorough!)- mixed together; bake 
in ungreased molds as directed for angel 
cake. 

1 1 78— TIGER CAKE. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

Yz lb. of butter. 

1 lb. of flour, 

I oz. of baking powder. 

4 eggs. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, 
add the yolks two at a time, add the 
milk then the whites whipped to a stiff 
froth; color one-quarter part of the 
batter with chocolate, flavor with vanilla; 
put a thin layer of the white batter in 
the bottom of a cake mold, then place 
some of the chocolate mixture on top in 
half teaspoonfuls; put the balance of the 
white batter on top and bake as directed 
for pound cake. 

1 1 79— ANISEED CAKE. 

Yz lb. of flour. 

X lb. of- butter. 

X lb. of sugar. 

I or 2 eggs. 

A teaspoonful of aniseeds. 

Rub the butter into the flour; beat the 
eggs with the sugar until partly dis- 
solved, put in the teaspoonful of ani- 
seeds and mix altogether, knead lightly 
and roll out the dough about an inch 
thick, put it in greased baking pans, 
dredge a little sugar on top and bake in 
a brisk oven. 

II 80— WHITE RAISIN CAKE. 
Make the lady cake mixture No. 1141, 
add a pound of Sultana raisins dusted 
with flour, flavor with extract of nut- 
meg; bake in shallow molds. 



1 181— MARION CAKE. 
Roll out some puff paste a quarter of 
an inch thick, strew over the top a mix- 
ture of currants, spices, sugar or any 
kind of minced dried fruit that may be 
handy; cover with another layer of 
paste of the same thickness, press the 
edges together and bake in a moderate- 
oven; when done and cold, spread witk 
vanilla icing and cut in small squares. 

1 1 82— BAKERS' LADY FINGERS. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

Y2. lb. of flour. 

3 eggs. 

Yt teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Beat the eggs with the sugar about 
half an hour; mix the baking powder 
with the flour and stir it in lightly. This 
is not a delicate lady finger like other 
recipes given in this book, but it is very 
serviceable to make individual charlotte 
russe, etc. 



1 1 83— LADY FINGERS. 

8 ozs. powdered sugar. 
Y cupful of water. 

9 eggs. 

10 ozs. flour. 

Separate the eggs; put the sugar and 
water in a bright saucepan over the fire, 
add the yolks and beat briskly until the 
mixture is warm, but not hot, and set the 
saucepan in a bowl of ice-water and con- 
tinue beating twenty minutes more, until 
the mixture is thickish and has a a foamy 
appearance, and its volume has increased 
twice its original quantity; whip the 
whites to a stiff froth that will hold up 
an egg, mix this lightly with the contents 
of the saucepan without beating, then 
stir in the flour also very lightly with a 
spoon, just enough to hide it from sight. 
To form the lady fingers put some of the 
batter in a forcing sack having a tube 
a little less than a half inch in diam- 
eter; force it out in finger lengths on 
sheets of blank paper (not greased) leav- 
ing an inch space between them and draw 
lines four inches apart across the paper 
with a pencil so as to have them of equal 
lengths; sift powdered sugar all over 



194 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



them; then take hold of the corner of the 
sheet of paper, raise briskly and shake 
off the surplus sugar; lav the sheet on a 
baking sheet and bake in a moderate oven 
about ten minutes, they should not be 
more than straw color; brush the paper 
over with a camel's hair brush dipped in 
water, the cakes will then come off easily; 
place two together, the moisture causing 
them to adhere. 

1 184— SMALL SPONGE DROPS. 

Make the lady finger mixture as di- 
rected above, drop small round shapes on 
paper size according to fancy, and bake 
in the oven as you would lady fingers. 



1 185— JELLY DROPS. 
Proceed as directed in the preceding 
recipe; spread with lemon, honey or 
orange jelly and stick two together. 



iiSsa— WHITE JELLY DROPS. 
Make the white jelly roll mixture; drop 
batter the size of a silver dollar on a 
sheet of manila paper with a forcing 
sack and tube, sift powdered sugar 
over them, let stand two or three 
minutes, then shake off the surplus 
sugar as directed for lady fingers; 
when cold spread with rich wine jelly, 
stick two together and keep in the refrig- 
erator until time to serve. 



n86— GLAZED JELLY DROPS. 

Make the sponge drops as directed else- 
where; frost them in different colors, 
spread the bottoms with orange or lemon 
honey, and stick two of different colors 
together. 



1187— COCOANUT DROPS. 

Make the lady cake mixture, add to it 
some desiccated cocoanut; drop small 
portions of the batter in round shapes, 
dredge powdered sugar over, shake off 
the surplus sugar and bake as directed 
for lady fingers. 



1188-ALMOND DROPS. 
Make the sponge drops as directed in 
recipe No. 1184; and have ready some 
finely minced almonds and dredge over 
the tops of the cakes before baking. 

1 189— SMALL SAVOY CAKES. 

Make the lady cake mixture No. 1141, 
flavor with orange flower water or vanilla 
extract; bake in patty pans previously 
buttered, shake powdered sugar in them, 
fill two-thirds full with the cake mixture, 
sift powdered sugar on top and bake a 
light color. 

1 190— WHITE MOUNTAIN GEMS. 

Make thin sponge drops about the size 
of a silver dollar, place spots of meringue 
all around the edges to form a ring or 
border, make them about the size of a 
gooseberry and high pointed, this is done 
with a forcing bag and tube drawing the 
tube up as the paste leaves it; bake in a 
very slack oven, with the door open if 
necessarj', only a light straw color; when 
cold fill the center with bright wine col- 
ored jelly almost cold. 



1191-SPRING LAKE GEMS. 
Make macaroon paste by recipe given 
for macaroons, drop small portions on a 
pan and flatten them out a little with a 
spoon ; when they are soft baked put them 
in small muffin or gem pans and press 
them into shapes in such a manner as to 
form a small basket; ornament the edges 
with meringue paste as described in the 
preceding recipe, bake about two min- 
utes, and when perfectly cold fill these 
with chopped jelly of different flavors and 
colors. 



1 192— ALMOND ICEBERGS. 
Blanch a half pound of almonds and 
brown them in the oven; when cold add 
them to a stiff meringue mixture; lay 
out with a spoon in large high drops, 
dust pulverized sugar on top and bake in 
a slack oven. 



PKACTICAI. AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



195 



1 193— SNOW BALLS. 

Yz lb. of pulverized sugar. 

12 ozs. of flour. 

I teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 

I pint of whites of eggs. 

Beat the whites to a stiff froth, mix in 
the sugar, flour and cream of tartar; 
place the mixture like drop cakes on 
paper and bake in a moderate oven; 
when done stick two together with white 
icing; dip in vanilla icing, then roll 
them in desiccated cocoanut. 

1 194— CHOCOLATE BAISEES. 

Stir a pound of sugar, two ounces of 
grated chocolate and three whites of 
eggs on the range until the chocolate is 
dissolved and perfectly incorporated, 
then lay this out like lady fingers on 
pans dusted with flour; let them dry 
two and a half to three hours, and bake 
in a slack oven. When properly made 
they will rise an inch thick. 



1195— OTHELLOS. 
Make a sponge cake mixture as directed 
in No. 1 174, lay out on a paper high 
drops the size of a walnut; bake in a 
brisk oven; when baked and cooled cut 
a hole in the bottom of each cake and fill 
them with vanilla cream; stick two to- 
gether, dip these in chocolate icing by 
means of a fork, decorate with dots of 
white icing, or may be iced with pink 
strawberry icing decorated in a similar 
manner. 

1196-CREAM DROPS. 
Make small drop cakes the size of a 
silver dollar with the butter sponge mix- 
ture as directed in No. 1147, dredge pul- 
verized sugar on top and bake a light 
color; spread with any of the pastry 
creams described elsewhere and place 
two together. 

1 197— GLAZED SPONGE DROPS. 

Make small sponge drops as directed 
in recipe No. 1196; make three colors 
and flavor of boiled icing; dip the bot- 
tom of each cake in one of the icings 
and set it on a sheet of paper to dry. 



1 198— CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS. 

Make the ordinary butter sponge mix- 
ture, drop spoonfuls on a greased baking 
pan a little larger than usual; when done, 
hollow out the bottoms, fill up with 
whipped cream, place together and dip 
them in chocolate icing and set on sheets 
of greased paper to dry. 



ii99-'WINE RUSK. 

14 ozs. granulated sugar. 

12 eggs. 

Yz lb. of almonds. 

Yz lb. of graham flour. 

I teaspoonful of extract of rose. 

Do not blanch the almonds, but crush 
them with a rolling pin or in a mortar, 
then mix with the graham flour. Beat 
the sugar and eggs together in a cool 
place for thirty-five minutes; when light 
and thick add the flavoring extract and 
the mixture of flour and almonds; bake 
in narrow molds; when done slice and 
brown the slices lightl}' in a brisk oven. 



1200— ANISEED RUSK. 

Yz lb. of granulated sugar. 

8 eggs. 

X lb. of almonds. 

6 ozs. of flour. 

A teaspoonful of aniseeds. 

Mince the almonds very fine, mix 
them and the aniseeds with the dry 
flour; beat the sugar and eggs until they 
are a thick foam, then stir in the flour 
and almond mixture; proceed as directed 
for wine rusk No. 1199. 

1201— ALMOND PASTE FOR 
MACAROONS. 

For almond ice, almond ice cream, 
almond macaroons, and in fact every- 
thing for which almond can be used. 
Prepared almond paste makes a better 
article than the crushed almonds. When 
the almond paste is used shave it off the 
lump very thinly; mix the shaving with 
granulated sugar and roll together on the 
table until the paste is thoroughly mixed 
with the sugar, it is then ready to use 
instead of almonds. 



196 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



1202— COCOANUT MACARCX)NS. 

Make the meringue paste as directed 
for Cream Meringue No. 3, and add to it 
when finished four ounces of desiccated 
cocoanut; drop pieces the size of a walnut 
on a greased baking pan and bake in a 
moderate oven; these should be baked 
with great care, and remain on the pan 
until cold. 



1203— ORDINARY MACAROONS. 

6 ozs. of almonds, 

4 ozs. of granulated sugar. 

2 ozs. of flour. 

2 eggs. 

A little salt. 

Crush the almonds without taking off 
the skins, mix them with the sugar and 
flour in a bowl, drop the eggs in the 
middle and mix the whole into a stiff 
dough; place this in portions the size of 
hazelnuts on greased baking pans, bake 
in a slack oven only a light brown. 



1 204- ALMOND RINGS. 

Make the cocoanut macaroon mixture, 
using minced blanched almonds instead of 
cocoanut; put a small tube, about a quar- 
ter of an inch, in the forcing sack and press 
out rings on baking pans; bake in a very 
slack oven; they will slip easily from the 
pan when cold. 

1205— KISSES IN GENERAL. 
A variety of macaroons, kisses and 
meringues can be made by mixing in the 
meringue paste macaroons, almonds, 
pistachio nuts, etc., or can be baked in 
different shapes, variously colored and 
flavored; the foundation is always the 
same; taste and fancy will create an end- 
less variety. 



1206— KISSES. 

yi lb. of granulated sugar. 

4 whites of eggs. 

Flavoring extract. 

"Whip the whites until they are firm 
enough to bear an egg; add the sugar and 
flavoring and beat a moment longer; 
grease the baking pan, then wipe it clean; 



attach a star pointed tube to the forcing 
sack and press out portions the size of 
large walnuts, leaving a two inch space 
between each ; bake in a slack oven about 
twelve minutes; they must not be more 
than a light straw color. If baked proper- 
ly they will swell partially hollow and 
slip off the pan easily when cold. 



1207— ALMOND MERINGUE PUFFS. 
Make the meringue paste as described 
for Cream Meringue No. 3; drop portions 
the size of hazelnuts on a baking pan 
greased and wiped dry; stick six halves 
of blanched almonds in each one in regu- 
lar order, and bake carefully as directed 
in the preceding recipes. 

1208- -MERINGUE PASTE. 
There is a variety of meringue paste, 
such as lemon and other pies, and again 
those which almost all sugar as in kisses, 
etc., but it is always whites of eggs and 
sugar, the proportions making the differ- 
ent varieties. 

1209— CREAM MERINGUES. 

(Kisses) 

% lb. of powdered sugar. 

5 whites of eggs. 

A teaspoon ful of flavoring extract.. 

All the ingredients and utensils must 
be as cold as possible. Whip the whites 
in a deep bowl with an e^gg beater made 
of ware, the description of which you will 
see on one of the engravings in part two 
of this book. When the eggs are beaten 
so that they will not fall when the bowl 
is turned up-side-down add the sugar and 
flavoring all at once, stir just enough to 
mix it well. Have ready strips of manila. 
paper about two inches wide, and pieces 
of hard wood to bake them on, no pine 
or any wood emitting a strong odor 
should be used; place spoonfuls of the 
mixture on the strips of paper about two 
inches apart, smooth with a knife, sift 
powdered sugar over them, shake off the 
surplus as in making lady fingers; place 
the strips on the boards and bake in a 
very slack oven with the door open ; they 
should be done in about thirty minutes;. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



197 



they can be lifted off the paper when 
cold. The board will prevent a crust 
forming in the bottom, thus leaving the 
soft inside to be scooped out and filled 
with whipped cream. Sweeten and 
flavor, place two together joined at the 
bottom with melted candy, or joined 
two together side by side with chopped 
jelly piled in them. They can also be 
served singly, filled with bright chopped 
jellies of different colors and flavor, or 
with ice cream. It is better to use a 
force sack tube, the tube being about 
half an inch in diameter, as shapes of 
even size can be made in this manner. 
See description of forcing bag and tube 
in one of the engravings in part five. 

1 2 ID— CREAM MERINGUE No. 2 
Beat ten whites of eggs until they 
hegin to fly from the whip, add one 
ounce of pulverized sugar, beat again 
until it is stiff. While you are engaged 
in doing this, boil twelve ounces of sugar 
with half its quantity of water to 244° 
Fahrenheit; add this boiling syrup to 
the eggs in a long, gentle stream; this 
must be poured in by one person while 
the other continues beating; when this 
is done lay out immediately in large 
drops on a board covered with wet paper, 
bake at about 200° Fahrenheit (a cool 
oven); when done scoop the inside with 
a. teaspoon, dr>- a little while longer in 
the oven; when cold proceed as directed 
in No. 1209. 

1211— CREAM MERINGUE No. 3. 

yi. lb. of granulated sugar. 

4 whites of eggs. 

Flavoring extract. 

A pinch of sugar of milk baking pow- 
der. 

Put half the whites in a bowl, add all 
the sugar and beat together about fif- 
teen minutes, it will then be white 
and firm like cake icing; add the other 
eggs one at a time and beat a few min- 
utes between, then put in the powder and 
flavoring; the time of beating all together 
is about a half hour and the essential 
point is to beat the mixture after the ad- 
dition of each white; so it will draw up 



in peaks, after the beater is lifted from it. 
To facilitate the operation the utensils 
should be very cold and the beating done 
in a cold place. This kind of meringue 
can be dropped on baking pans slightly 
greased, instead of paper as the preceding 
recipe; do not sift any powdered sugar on 
this kind of meringue; bake in a slack 
oven until they are a straw color and 
dry. They will slip easily from the pan 
when cold. Cut off the bottom crust and 
scoop out the inside and fill as directed 
in previous recipe. 

Jit 

1212— CHOCOLATE MERINGUE. 
yi lb. of granulated sugar. 
3 whites of eggs. 

1 oz. of grated chocolate. 

2 drops of acetic acid. 

A teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 

Proceed as directed in recipes for cream 
meringue, and when it is finished mix 
in the grated chocolate thoroughly. 
Drop portions with a sack and tube on 
greased baking pans and bake at a very 
moderate heat. This meringue is of the 
choicest kind; they rise nearly hollow 
and can be slipped easily from the pan 
when cold. 



1213— MERINGUE A LA ROSE. 
Make a meringue paste as directed in 
any of the preceding recipes, color it 
pink and flavor with a few drops of rose 
extract; drop portions the size of hazel- 
nuts with a sack and tube on a pan but- 
tered then wiped, bake this in a slack 
oven without giving them any color. 
They have a very fragile appearance and 
will prove a favorite for the cake basket. 

Jft 

1214— ALMOND MERINGUE. 
Make and bake a thin sheet of butter 
sponge cake, then make the almond cream 
as follows: 

3 cups of milk. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 
lyi ozs. of corn starch. 
I teacupful of almonds. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 

4 whites of eggs. 
Rose flavoring. 



198 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY 



A pinch of salt. 

Blanch the almonds and pound them 
to a coarse paste; mix the starch and 
sugar together dry, let the milk come to 
a boil then stir in the mixed starch and 
sugar, take it off the fire immediately, 
add the other ingredients, the whites of 
eggs not beaten; beat the mixture vigor- 
ously, adding the almonds and extract of 
rose last; spread this cream on the sheet 
of cake and bake in a slack oven about 
fifteen minutes; when it is set make a 
meringiie paste of whites of eggs and su- 
gar as directed for lemon pies, flavor 
with extract of rose and color pink, 
spread it on top of the almond cream and 
bake in a slack oven; serve with a sauce 
made of one part of port wine and three 
of lemon syrup. 



1215— CHOCOLATE MERINGUE. 
Bake a sheet of cake as directed in the 
preceding recipe; spread over it a choco- 
late cream made of 

3 cups of milk. 

A basting spoonful of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of grated chocolate. 

2 ozs. of corn starch. 

4 yolks of eggs. 
Vanilla extract. 

Make it the same as directed in the 
preceding recipe, finishing off with a 
white meringue instead of pink, flavor 
with vanilla. These meringues should 
be baked in the pan the cake is baked in, 
as otherwise if the cake is transferred to 
another dish and the cream is poured 
over, it is liable to get in between the 
sides of the pan and cake and instead of 
remaining on top the cake will float in 
the mixture. 



1216-FLORENTINE MERINGUES. 
Cover a small square baking dish with 
a sheet of puff paste rolled out thin, bake 
in the oven, and spread over it strawberry- 
fruit jelly or conserve; replace in the 
open oven, and whip the whites of eight 
eggs, or more according to the size of the 
baking pan, whip these firm and spread 
a thick coat over the hot preserves, sift 
granulated sugar over, then some minced 
almonds and bake in a very slack oven, 



with the door open if necessary, about 
ten minutes; cut in squares when cold. 



1217— STRAWBERRY MERINGUE. 
Yz lb. of sugar. 
5 eggs. 
]i lb. of butter. 

3 basting spoonfuls of milk. 
li lb. of flour. 

I heaping teaspoonful of baking pow- 
der. 

Beat the sugar and eggs together five 
minutes, add the melted butter, the milk, 
and the flour and powder thoroughly 
mixed; spread on jelly cake pans as thin 
as possible; when done cover the top of 
the cake w-ith raw strawberries, put it 
back in the oven 5 minutes, and spread a 
thick covering of the meringue paste as 
directed in No. 1214; set the cake in the 
oven just long enough to color the top a 
little; cut in oblong pieces and serve. 

1 21 S— BLACKBERRY MERINGUE. 
Made as directed in No. 121 7 for straw- 
berry meringue. 

1219— PEACH MERINGUE. 
Pare and cut the peaches in pieces the 
size of strawberries, then make as directed 
in No. 1 2 17 for strawberry meringue. 

1220— PINEAPPLE MERINGUE. 

1 pint of grated pineapple. 

2 basting spoonfuls of old port wnne. 
A small teacup of sug r. 

A heaping tablespoonful of corn starch. 
A basting spoonful of butter. 
The rind of half a lemon. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

Stew the grated pineapple and wine 
with half of the sugar; when it is partly 
thickened mix the starch with the rest of 
the sugar and stir it in; then add the 
butter, flavoring, and beaten yolks of 
eggs last; bake this cream on a sheet of 
white cake instead of the butter sponge as 
described in other recipes; when set spread 
with meringue paste, sifting sugar on 
top before baking; bake in a slack oven 
until it is a straw color; serve with cream. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



199. 



1221— GENOESE MERINGUE. 
Cut a thin sheet of sponge cake in 
pieces 1% inches wide and 4 inches long; 
make meringue dots all around the edge 
with a star pointed tube, dust sugar over 
the tops and brown lightly in the oven ; 
when cold fill the center with fruit jellies, 
jams or creams. 



1222— BOSTON CREAM PUFFS. 

yi. pint of water. 

X lb. of butter. 

% lb. of flour. 

5 eggs. 

Bring the water to a boil with the 
butter in it, put the flour in all 
at once and stir over the fire until it 
becomes a stiff smooth paste, this will 
take about five or six minutes; take it 
off, let it cool a few minutes and beat in 
the eggs one at a time. These puffs will 
not rise if the eggs are beaten in after it 
is cold. Drop small teaspoonfuls of the 
paste on slightly greased baking sheets, 
allow two inches of space between them 
and bake about twenty-five minutes. 
These are to be filled either with whipped 
cream or pastry cream. There is an 
instrument made purposely to fill these, 
but they can be filled with a forcing bag 
or small tube, or again by cutting a slit 
in the side and filling with a teaspoon. 
The more the paste is beaten against the 
side of the pan after the eggs are added 
the more it will rise. When perfect they 
are smooth and rise in the shape of an 
inverted cup; the paste must be just 
soft enough to almost run, and the addi- 
tion of one more egg may be required 
for this. Make the quantity of butter 
light and that of the flour strong. The 
oven door should not be open for at 
least fifteen minutes after they are put 
in, and then just opened a little to look 
in to make sure of the oven. 



1223— CORN STARCH CREAM 
PUFFS. 
These are finer than the preceding 
recipe and are specially suitable for vari- 
ous kinds of eclairs. 
yi pint of milk. 



3 ozs. of butter. 

% lb. of corn starch. 

5 eggs. 

Boil half of the milk with the butter in 
it, mix the corn starch with the other 
half; when the contents of the sauce 
pan are boiling put in the starch and 
cook to a smooth paste, stirring con- 
stantly; add the eggs as described for 
the preceding recipe; drop portions no 
larger than walnuts on greased baking 
pans, bake in a moderate oven about 
twenty-five minutes. The quantity of 
this recipe will make two dozen of puffs. 



1224— TRANSPARENT PUFFS. 

% pint of water. 

A tablespoonful of butter. 

3 ozs. of corn starch. 

2 whole eggs. 

3 whites of eggs. 

Proceed as directed for Boston cream 
puffs. 

1225— COCOANUT ECLAIRS. 
Make any of the preceding cream puff 
pastes; lay it out in finger lengths with a 
forcing bag and tube half an inch in 
diameter on greased baking sheets; bake 
them crisper than directed for cream 
puffs; when they are cold dip them in, 
thick sugar syrup, flavored with a grating 
of lemon rind, then in grated cocoanut 
mixed with its equal quantity of granu- 
lated sugar; roll so that there are no 
bare spots; when this is done dry them in 
a warm place. 

1226— ECLAIRS AUX AM ANDES. 

Make eclairs as directed in the preced- 
ing recipe, instead of grated cocoanut use 
chopped almonds. 

1227— FRUIT ECLAIRS. 
% pint of water. 

3 ozs of butter. 

A tablespoonful of sugar. 
5 ozs. of flour. 

4 small eggs or three large. 

A teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla ex- 
tract. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Boil the water, sugar and butter, stir 
in the flour all at once, cook it to a 
smooth paste; then add the eggs as 
directed for cream puffs, lay these in 
fancy shapes with a forcing bag and tube 
in crescent, oblong or finger shapes on a 
greased baking pan. Brush with beaten 
^gg and dredge pulverized sugar over 
them before baking, fill these with fruit 
jelly, minced candied fruit mixed with 
an equal quantity of wine jelly, or any 
other fruit filline suitable to taste. 



1228— FRUIT PUFFS. 
Make the Spanish puff paste; rig a 
forcing sack with a X inch tube and form 
rings the size of the top of a teacup on 
greased tins cut just large enough to hold 
the rings of paste; when the lard is hot 
dip the tins in it up-side-down and the 
rings of p<sste will slip off easily; fry just 
light brown; drain carefully and split 
them around and spread the inside with 
fruit jams, lemon or orange butter or 
cocoanut conserve ; replace the two 
halves together, dredge plentifully with 
pulverized sugar. 

1229— CHFESE PUFFS. 

Make a paste of 

}i pint of water. 

A tablespoonful of butter. 

}4 lb. of flour. 

As much of grated cheese. 

)4 dozen of eggs. 

Boil the water and butter together and 
stir in the flour; cook on the top of the 
range a few minutes until you have a 
stiff paste; ween it is well cooked take 
the sauce pan from the fire and add the 
grated cheese; then beat the paste thor- 
oughly — a small pestle being the best 
thing for the purpose — then work in the 
eggs as you would for cream puffs, one at 
a time, and when they are all in beat on 
the side of the pan; cut manila paper in 
bands, brush them over with melted lard; 
put the paste in a forcing bag and ^ in. 
tube and form ring shapes on the greased 
papers; draw the paper through hot lard 
and the paste rings will slip off easily; 
when fried a nice light color drain them; 
when they are cool split them and spread 



cream cheese between; put the edges 
back together and dredge grated cheese 
on top and bake a minute or so. The in- 
side of the ring should not be any larger 
than a half dollar as they will expand 
considerably. 

1230— CHEESE REMEQUINS. 

J4 pint of milk. 

2 ozs. of butter. 

X lb. of flour. 

X lb. of grated cheese. 

6 eggs. 

% teaspoonful of salt. 

Boil the milk and butter and add the 
flour all at once as for cream puffs, mix 
in the grated cheese, pound smooth while 
still at the side of the range, then remove 
and add the eggs one at a time; place on 
a baking pan in finger lengths with a 
forcing sack and tube; they must bake in 
a very modeerate oven so as not to get a 
dark color; fill with a mixture of a quar- 
ter of a pound of butter and two basting 
spoonfuls of anchovy paste worked 
smooth together, or the filling of the fol- 
lowing recipe. 

1231— CHEESE CAKES. 

6 ozs. of cream curd. 

I cup of milk. 

A basting spoonf 1 of butter. 

X lb. of flour. 

As much of grated cheese. 

^ dozen of eggs. 

Make the paste as for cream puffs; the 
curd and grated cheese should be pounded 
in while the mixture is hot, roll out a 
thin sheet of puff paste, cut out shapes 
with a biscuit cutter and place a spoonful 
of the mixture in the middle of each, 
wet the edges and pinch them up in the 
shape of a three-cornered Continental 
hat; brush over with egg and water and 
bake in a moderate oven about twelve 
minutes; they will expand in baking 
and become hollow; fill vnth Neufchatel 
cheese stirred with its volume of fresh 
unsalted butter. 

Jt 

1232— JUMBLES. 
8 ozs. of sugar. 
3 basting spoonfuls of butter. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



4 eggs. 

Vanilla or lemon flavoring. 

I lb. of flour. 

Make a batter of the above ingredi- 
ents, take a forcing sack and tube with 
the edges cut like saw teeth, press out 
the jumbles in rings on the greased bak- 
ing pan, bake in a brisk oven. 



1233— ORDINARY COOKIES. 

Yi lb. of sugar. 

Yz lb. of butter. 

3' eggs. 

Yz cupful of milk. 

A teaspoonful of baking powder. 

A pound of flour. 

Cream the butter and sugar together; 
beat the eggs and mix them in, mix the 
flour and powder together and stir it in; 
work smooth and let stand a few min- 
utes, then roll out thin ; sift sugar all over 
the sheet of dough and cut out with any 
suitab cutter. 



J234— COOKIES No. 2. 

Yz lb. of sugar. 

Yz lb. of butter. 

6 eggs. 

A heaping teaspoonful of baking pow- 
der. 

i^ pounds of flour. 

Proceed as for the directions given in 
the preceding recipe. 

1235— COOKIES No. 3, BEST. 
6 ozs. of powdered sugar. 
3 ozs. of butter. 
3 eggs. 

3 basting spoonfuls of milk. 
A level teaspoonful of baking powder. 
A pound of flour. 
Flavoring extract. 

Proceed as directed in preceding recipe 
but cut out in fancy shapes. 

1236— NEW ENGLAND GINGER 
BREAD. 

12 OZS. of molasses. 

X lb. of bttuer. 

2 eggs. 

A level teaspoonful of ground ginger. 



A teaspoonful of soda. 

I lb. of flour. 

A cup of hot water. 

Melt the butter and stir it in the mo- 
lasses, then the beaten eggs, ginger and 
soda, stir in the flour, then put in the 
hot water a little at a time; bake in shal- 
low pans. No baking powder is needed 
in this recipu as the molasses and soda 
will make the bread ight. 

1237 -GINGER BREAD WITHOUT 
EGGS. 

8 ozs. of molasses. 

Y lb. of sugar. 

1 cup of milk. 
X lb. of butter. 

A teaspoonful of ground ginger. 
A level teaspoonful each of soda and 
baking powder. 

2 lbs. of flour. 

Warm the sugar, butter and molasses 
and beat it five minutes; mix the soda 
and all the rest of the ingredients and 
bake in shallow pans, or can be rolled 
out and cut into shapes and baked on 
greased pans. 

1238— CURLED GINGER SNAPS. 
Yz lb. of flour. 
% lb. of butter. 

Y lb. of sugar. 

A teaspoonful of ground ginger 

A level teaspoonful of soda. 

% lb. of light ni'jlasses. 

Lemon extract. 

Rub the butter into the flour as in 
making shortcake, add the ground gin- 
ger, make a hollow in the middle of the 
flour, put in the sugar, molasses and 
extract; dissolve the soda in a little 
water and add it, stir all together, mak- 
ing a smooth paste. Drop this batter 
with a teaspoon on greased baking pans 
and bake in a slack oven. They must 
be taken off the pan before they are cold, 
and they can be bent down in tubular 
shapes on a polished round stick an inch 
in diameter. 

t239— GINGER SNAPS No. I. 
Make the dough as directed for curled 
ginger snaps, add to it half a pound of 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



flour, or enough to make the dough 
stiff enough to roll out to a thin sheet, 
to be cut with a small sized cutter. 

J240-GINGER SNAPS No. 2. 

6 ozs. of granulated sugar. 

4 ozs. of butter. 

4 eggs. 

^ teacupful of milk. 

A teaspoonful of ground ginger. 

A teaspoonful of baking powder. 

12 ozs. of flour. 

Cream the butter and sugar together, 
beat the eggs and mix them in, then the 
flour in portions with the powder thor- 
oughly mixed in, add the ginger last; 
work the dough smooth and let it stand 
a few minutes, then roll out thin, sift 
sugar over the top of the sheet of dough, 
then cut it in small round shapes and 
bake. 

J24 1— STRAWBERRY SHORT CAKE. 

Yi lb. of cold butter. 

I lb. of flour. 

Rub the butter and flour together 
until thoroughly mixed, wet with ice 
water, give two or three rollings to make 
the paste flaky, roll out the thickness of 
biscuits and bake on jelly cake pans. 
Pick the strawberries carefully and cover 
them with sugar in an earthen bowl, stir 
lightly with a spoon to mix. When the 
shortcake is done split it in two, spread 
strawberries on both halves and place 
one on top the other; serve plain or with 
whipped cream. The butter and flour 
should be cold, as otherwise the short 
cake would be too heavy; no baking 
powder should be used, as it tends to 
make the cake absorb too much of the 
juice. 



1242— PEACH SHORT CAKE. 

Yz lb. of butter. 

■% lb. of flour. 

I cup of ice water. 

4 cups of ripe peaches, pared and cut. 

Have the peaches ready and strew over 
them a cup of sugar before you start 
making the paste, rub the butter in the 
flour thoroughly, make a hollow in the 



middle, pour in the water and mix up in 
the usual way, roll it out on a floured 
board several times, fold it up like yoxi 
would pie paste, then finally roll it out 
as thick as biscuits and bake it on jelly 
cake pans; when done split in two, but- 
ter, then spread the peaches on one half, 
place the father half over it split side 
upwards and spread more peaches on 
top; serve with whipped cream. 



1243— APPLE SHORT CAKE. 
Use rich flavored apples, cut them in 
thin slices and mix them with sugar; 
proceed as directed for peach short 
cake. 

1244 -SCOTCH SHORT CAKE. 

2 lbs. of flour. 

I lb. of butter. 

4 ozs. of lard. 

8 ozs. of sugar. 

Rub the butter and lard in the flour, mix 
in the rest of the ingredients, make a stiff 
dough and bake in a moderate oven. 

1245— CHEESE ROLLS. 

Make puff paste as directed elsewhere 
in this book; use lo ozs. of butter to a 
pound of flour, when it has been rolled 
twice roll it out about a quarter of an 
inch thick and spread it all over with 
grated cheese; fold over and roll out 
and spread cheese over again; when it 
has been folded and rolled out five times 
cut in three-inch squares, double them 
over like you would Parker House rolls, 
brush with beaten egg and water and 
bake a nice color; are especially good to 
serve with stewed figs. 

1246— COMMON FRYING BATTER. 

1 cup of milk. 

2 eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

A tablespoonful of melted butter. 

I tablespoonful of maple syrup. 

Yi teaspoonful of baking powder. 

\i lb. of flour. 

Mix all the ingredients smooth except 
the baking power; mix this in just before 
using. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



203 



1247— BATTER FRITTERS. 
Make the frying batter of the preced- 
ing recipe and fry spoonfuls in hot lard; 
good to serve with maple syrup or sweet 
sauce of any kind. 

1248— PRETZELS. 

Make a sponge of half the flour as 
directed for Parker House rolls; when 
the sponge commences to fall add an 
ounce of salt for every quart of liquid 
used in making the sponge; add a little 
lard and butter, add the remaining flour 
and knead vigorously, then divide this 
in suitable pieces, round them up, roll 
them in finger shapes, then in the form 
of pretzels as shown in cut; place them 
on boards to inse; when they are three- 
fourths risen make a brine of six quarts 
of water, twenty ounces of salt and two 
ounces of potash; bring this to a boil 
and skim all that rises. Then deposit 



the pretzels a few at a time in this boil- 
ing liquor; as soon as they come to the 
surface take them out with a skimming 
ladle, slip them on a baking sheet and 
bake in an oven at a temperature of 
about 600° Fahrenheit (very hot oven); 
just before they are put into the oven 
sprinkle lightly with very fine salt. If 
the pretzels are too dark in color use a 
little less of the potash. 

I249-COMPRESSED YEAST. 

When directions are given in any of 
the recipes contained in this book it 
must be understood that a half-ounce 
cake of Fleishmann's compressed yeast 
should be dissolved in a cup of luke- 
warm water, otherwise the quantity of 
liquid when the home-made yeast is used 
will be greater than when the compressed 
yeast is used if this is dissolved in part 
of the water or milk given in the recipes. 



204 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



J250— THERMOMETER. 
In using the following table the use of a thermometer is indispensable, also in 
the making of various articles of confectionery given in the following part. A con- 
fectionery thermometer can be bought for a small sum. It will be found a great 
adviser, and although it is possible to do without it, its use can not be too strongly 
recommended. 

(^ (^* (^ 

J25 1— PROPER BAKING TEMPERATURE. 

Fahrenheit. 



500 deg. 



Bread 
Rolls 
Biscuits 
Puff Paste 
Buns 



450 deg. 



Cream Puffs 

Eclairs 

Muffins 

Rusks 

Jumbles 



400 deg. 



Pies 

Layer Cakes 

Lady Fingers 

Jumbles 

Jelly Rolls 

Sponge Biscuits 



300 deg. 



Spiced Cakes 
Molasses Cakes 
Ginger Bread 
Cup Cakes 
Sponge Cakes 
Short Cake 



200 deg. 



Angel Cakes 
White Cakes 
Macaroons 
Meringues 
Kisses 
Wedding Cakes 



1252— WEIGHT AND MEASURE. 

.\ good deal of time and material is saved by the use of scales. Articles put 
together in the same manner and carefully wei.,hed will always produce the --ame 
results, especially in the making of cakes and confectionery. Many things are 
spoiled by having either too much sugar or butter; a quart of flour might be almost 
solid, or put in loosely. Too much cannot be said in favor of scales; they will pay 
for themselves in a very short time, but for those not possessing scales the following 
table may be of some use : 

TEASPOON A rounded teaspoon of dry articles is near enough to be 

called half an ounce. 

TABLESPOON A tablespoon 14 times full is }i pound. 

2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter is i ounce. 
A heaping tablespoonful of sugar is i ounce. 

BASTING SPOON A basting spoon holds about 1)4 ounces of melted butter. 

7 basting spoonfuls make j^ pint. 

CUP An ordinary white coffee cup holds )4 pint. 

BUTTER A cup of butter pressed in solid is }4 pound. 

PINT A pint is a pound of water, milk, vinegar and all fluids of 

no greater density than water. 

BREAD CRUMBS A quart of pressed bread crumbs is i pound. 

BUTTER A piece of butter the size of an egg is about 2 ounces. 

CHOCOLATE A cupful of grated chocolate is ^ pound. 

COFFEE A cupful of coffee is }( pound. 

FLOUR A level cupful of flour is X pound. 

A pint is ^2 pound. 
A quart is i pound. 

LARD The same as butter. 

RICE A rounded cup of rice is )4 pound. 

SUGAR A rounded coffee cupful is )4 pound. 

PULVERIZED SUGAR. .A cupful of pulverized sugar is 6 ounces. 

SUET A pint of suet is }4 pound. 

TEA A level cup of tea 2 ounces. 

MOLASSES A coffee cup holds ^4 pounds. 

CORN STARCH A cup level is 6 ounces. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



205 



1254— COFFEE. 

More coffee is consumed in the United 
States than in any other country, because 
its stimulating powers to bodily and 
mental activity are appreciated. Coffee 
is adulterated in many ways, and to 
guard against this the ready ground arti- 
cles should not be purchased. Select 
the nice, evenly browned beans and have 
it ground before your eyes. If coffee is 
eaten raw, or made by steeping in cold 
water itn effects are greatly changed and 
it becomes deadening and produces wake- 
fulness. There are several kinds of 
coffee, the Rio coffees being the cheap- 
est, then the mixture of Java and Rio 
and then the fanc}' kinds, such as Mocha, 
African and other new and fancy names 
which are given to the product of young 
trees. Good sweet cream must be used 
in coffee to obtain its best flavor and 
richest color, but it certainlj' has more 
stimulating effects when taken clear. 
The Ijest kind of coffee pots are those 
made of earthenware. They will hold 
the coffee and keep it good until the 
next meal, if it becomes a necessity to 
keep it, and prevent it from getting a 
metallic taint. 

1255 -FRENCH COFFEE. 
I large cup of coarsely ground coffee, 

6 cups of boiling water. 

Put the coffee in the perforated top of 
the coffee pot. pour the boiling water 
over it and keep it at the boiling point; 
when the water is run through, pour it 
off into another vessel and pour it over 
the coffee again four or five times. If 
the coffee is not allowed to boil, any 
sediment that might have passed through 
the filter will remain at the bottom, and 
the coffee will pour off clear and strong. 
This is a method that will certainh- make 
bad coffee if allowed to boil. 



1256— ORDINARY COFFEE. 

X lb, of coffee. 

2 quarts of water. 

Grind the coffee coarse, piit it on in 
cold water, let it come to a boil and 
remove immediately from the fire, place 
it on the side of the range where it will 
keep hot without boiling; a few minutes 
before serving add a half cup of ice- 
water. 



J257— ORDINARY COFFEE AN- 
OTHER WAY. 

6 ozs. of coffee. 

2 quarts of water. 

White of an egg. 

Put the coffee on to boil; when almost 
boiling add the white of the egg beaten 
in a half cup of cold water; when it comes 
to a boil remove it to the side of the 
range and let it remain without boiling 
until readv to serve 



e^ 



J258-TEA. 

A teaspoonful of tea for every large cup. 

The best way to make tea is to put the 
measured amount required into the tea- 
pot, pour the boiling water over it and 
let it steep a few minutes on a hot corner 
of the range without boiling. 



J259-CHOCOLATE. 

The purest chocolate is the common 
unsweetened confectioner's article. Grate 
the chocolate and use two heaping table- 
spoonfuls for three cups of milk and one 
I of water; boil the milk and water in a 
1 saucepan, drop in the grated chocolate 
I and beat with a wire egg whisk until the 
i chocolate is all dissolved; let it come to 
I a boil ard serve with cream and sugar. 



«!^ «i^ n^ 



PART IV. 



V^ v|5 <:^ 



«^ 



The Family Confectioner 



PLAIN AND FANCY ICE CREAMS, ICES, 

FROZEN PUDDINGS AND 

CUSTARDS. 



e^ 



HOW TO MAKE BON BONS, CREAM CHOCOLATES, GUM DROPS, 
CARAMELS, FOUDANT, TAFFIES, CANDY TOYS AND STICKS.^ 



Ice Cream^ Sherbets^ Frozen Puddings and 

Custards* 



1260— NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 

Ice cream and ices were first extens- 
ively introduced into this country by a 
French refugee, Captain Collet, who, 
having lost his commission in the French 
marine and later a small fortune in cot- 
ton speculations, resorted to his ability 
as an ice cream maker to regain his lost 
fortune. His toothsome delicacies be- 
came at once so popular that he retrained 
his lost fortune and died happy and an 
American citizen. 

Contrary to the opinion of old time 
physicians, ice cream is healthful, and 
is consumed in greater quantities every 
season. People never seem to tire of 
ice cream and other frozen desserts, and 
almost every hotel in the land serves 
them every day in the year. 

As salt and ice cost almost as much as 
the mixture itself, particular attention 
should be paid to the freezing process, as 
while one person will use ten pounds of 
ice, another will use thirty for the same 
amount of ice cream. One will freeze 
in one half hour while the other will 
take an hour or more, replenishing the 
freezer two or three times, thus causing 
unnecessary expense. 

Pound the ice fine; it may seem longer 
in the beginning, but is by far the shorter 
in the end. The large lumps, forced in 
to save a little time and labor, will do 
but very little good. 

Freezing is accomplished by a peculiar 
action of the salt upon the ice, which 
releases the cold so quickly that it lowers 
the freezing point of the biine, causing 
the cream to freeze, and it will not 
freeze until the brine has formed in the 
pail. A neat way of pounding the ice 
is to inclose it in a burlap sack and 
pound it fine with the broad side of 



an axe or a wooden maul. The freezing 
must be done quickly to obtain light 
cream. The quantity of ice and salt is 
about one and four; that is, for every 
part of salt use four parts of chipped ice. 
When packing ice around the freezer, 
first fill the tub half full with pounded 
ice; then alternate layers of ice and salt. 
The cream should be finished with a 
hand paddle made of hard wood, a good 
deal like a toy spade. The cream ad- 
hering to the freezer should be scraped 
off with a knife and the whole beaten 
vigorously with the paddle. 

J26t-ARTIFiaAL CREAM. 

It is not absolutel)' necessar}' to use 
real cream in making ice cream. The 
artificial cream often proves its superi- 
ority by its even, smooth, rich body, 
which can always be obtained by follow- 
ing the formula. 

On the other hand, if the real cream 
is used altogether it is not always of a 
uniform quality. Some of it is just on 
the point of turning sour, some has a 
little taint of mouldiness, again it is very 
thin and hardly differs from good new 
milk. 

Compared with the artificial prepara- 
tion, the real cream lacks uniformity and 
is subject to too many variations of 
quality and flavor; but mixed with the 
artificial preparation, which takes a 
little longer to make, and aside from the 
considration of cost, it will give better 
satisfaction. 

1262— ARTIFICIAL CREAM. 
A certain quantity of real cream added 
to the artificial preparation will give fine 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



results, and in giving the recipes it will 
be understood that when cream is men- 
tioned, either artificial or real cream, or 
one part of artificial and one of of real 
cream can be used, and even less cream 
if desired. The general formula is 8 ozs. 
of sugar to every quart of milk and 
cream. To make one and cne-half gal- 
lons of artificial ice cream take: 

1 gal. of milk. 

2 lbs. of sugar. 
4 yolks of eggs. 

2,}4 ozs. of corn starch. 

Put one-half of the milk in a bright 
granite kettle with all the sugar, mix the 
starch and a teacup of the remaining 
part of the milk, then drop in the yolks 
and stir thoroughly. When the milk and 
sugar boils pour a cup of the boiling 
milk on the corn starch and egg mix- 
ture, then pour into the boiling milk; 
stir briskly and remove from the fire 
immediately. The heat of the milk will 
cook the starch and egg sufficiently, but 
if allowed to cook too much the egg 
would not beat light in the cream, thus 
losing its most important function. Add 
the remaining cold milk and strain into 
the freezer; freeze when cool. This 
preparation can not well be kept over 
night, as it will ferment sufficiently to 
give it a disagreeable flavor, which no 
amount of extracts or fruit pulps can 
destroy. 

The best way is to make the prepara- 
tion about three hours before freezing; 
but if it become a necessity that it be 
made the night before, it may be kept 
if cooled immediately and placed in a 
tub of cracked ice. 



^ 



1263— ARTIFICIAL CREAM No. 2. 

For one and one-half gallons of ice 
cream take: 

1 qt. cream. 
3 qts. milk. 

2 lbs. sugar. 

2% or 2, ozs. corn starch (according to 
the richness of the cream). 

3 yolks of eggs. 

Proceed as directed for artificial cream 
No. I, adding the cream when it is per- 
fectly cold. 



J264— ARTIFICAL CREAM No. 3. 

The following can be made with part 
cream or all milk, the same proportion 
being used as in No. i and No. 2. The 
difference lies in the cooking and the 
addition of six grains of Fairchild's pure 
pepsin powder to every quart of prep- 
aration. 

Boil all the sugar and milk, reserving 
half a tea cup of milk for mixing the 
starch, add the starch when boiling and 
cook about two minutes. 

Beat the yolks light in a bowl large 
enough to hold the contents of the kettle, 
pour this on the yolks and beat briskly; 
the heat of the mixture will partly cook 
the eggs, but not sufficiently to prevent 
beating light in the freezer. When cold 
add the pepsin dissolved in a teaspoonful 
of water. Flavor in any way pertaining 
to other creams. 

.^ 

J265. 

When no mention of sugar is made in 
the following recipes, it must be under- 
stood that if artificial cream is used no 
addition of sugar is necessary, but if half 
or part cream is used 8 ounces of sugar 
must be added with every quart of cream. 

J266— FROZEN FRUIT IN CREAMS 
AND ICES, 

That are part of sherbet, creams and ices, 
will not freeze in a like manner. Those 
that contain a good deal of sugar, such 
as ripe cherries, pears, peaches, sweet 
grapes, will never freeze too hard; but 
fruit containg but very little sugar, li'^e 
oranges, strawberries, etc., should be 
stewed without breaking in very thick 
syrup. If the strawberries are quite ripe 
it will answer the purpose to pour the 
hot syrup over them and let stand until 
cool, then make very cold, and drop in 
the freezing just as it is finished. 

I267-VANILLA ICE CREAM. 
I qt. of sweet cream, or i qt. artificial 
cream. 

)4. lb. of sugar. 

I tablespoonful extract of vanilla. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Put the sugar and flavoring in the 
cream, put this in a small pail and set in 
a pan of ice water, beat it a few minutes, 
pour it in the freezer and freeze as rapidly 
as possible; take out the beater and beat 
the ice cream about 15 minutes with a 
wooden paddle made like a toy garden 
spade; put the cover on, pack with more 
ice and salt and let stand until needed. 



^ 



J268- WHITE CHERRY ICE CREAM. 

I qt. pure sweet cream. 

I qt. white cherries. 

%\h. sugar. 

I cup water. 

Make a syrup of the sugar and water; 
when it is boiling drop in the stoned 
cherries and let them simmer twelve 
minutes, do not stir or break them in 
any way; strain the syrup into the freezer 
and keep the fruit on ice to be mixed 
when the cream is cold; when the syrup 
is cold strain in the freezer, add the 
cream and freeze: when nearly done 
beat up with the paddle and stir in the 
cherries; pack carefully and serve firmly 
frozen. 

1269— CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. 

For two quarts of pure creain or arti- 
ficial preparation made as described else- 
where in tliis book, use two ounces of 
grated unsweetened chocolate, flavor 
with two tablespoonfnls of vanilla. The 
chocolate must be boiled with a small 
quantity of milk and sugar, then strain 
into the cream, beat this a few minutes 
and freeze in the usual wa}'. Chocolate 
simply melted and not diluted with the 
milk aud sugar will not mix in the cold 
cream or custard. 



J270-COFFEE ICE CREAM. 

I cup of cold steeped coffee. 

I qt. of rich cream (pure). 

}4. lb. of sugar. 

Grind the coffee coarse and let it steep 
12 hours in cold water, then add it to 
the cream and freeze in the usual man- 
ner. 



I27I— STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. 

I qt. of sweet cream. 

I qt. of ripe strawberries. 

I lb. of sugar. 

Pick the strawberries, wash them 
carefully, drain, put them in a bowl and 
strew the sugar over them, let stand an 
hour or so, mash them together and rub 
the syrup and fruit through a sieve, 
partly freeze the cream by itself, then 
add the strawberry pulp and freeze as 
usual. If the cream is not frozen before 
the strawberries are added the acidity 
of the fruit is liable to curdle it before 
the fruit is frozen. 

1272— ROSE ICE CREAM. 

I qt. of rich sweet cream. 

}( lbs. of sugar. 

10 eggs. 

Carmine coloring. 

Extract of rose. 

Keep one cup of cream on ice to be 
whipped while the other is freezing; boil 
the rest of the cream with the sugar in 
it; beat the eggs to a thick foam, pour 
the boiling cream and sugar into it, put 
back in the sauce pan and cook just 
enough to slightly thicken; it must not 
boil again as the eggs would cook to a 
hard curd and spoil the cream; strain in 
the freezer immediately, add the extract 
of rose and half a cup of raw strawberry 
juice, made simply with fresh straw- 
berries and sugar; if this is not obtain- 
able add a few drops of coloring just 
sufficient to make the cream a light pink, 
freeze; when it is nearly finished whip 
the cup of cream which has been kept on 
ice for the purpose and beat it in with a 
wire Qgg beater. 

1273— PECAN ICE CREAM. 

12 ozs. of pecan nut meat. 

% lbs. of sugar. 

4 cups of cream (see No. 1265). 

A tablespoonful of caramel coloring. 

Pound the clean kernels into a mortar 
with half of the sugar and two basting 
spoonfuls of the cream, mix the cream 
with the pulp and the rest of the sugar 
and caramel coloring, strain into the 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



freezer and freeze in the usual manner. 
A fine cream to serve with raspberry ice 
spread in shallow champagne glasses 
with the cream piled in the middle. 

1274— GINGER BISQUE, OR ICE 
CREAM. 

4 ozs. of candied ginger. 
I teacupful of sugar. 

' The juice of one lemon. 
I quart of cream (see No. 1265. 
Cut the candied ginger into very small 
pieces, make a hot syrup of the sugar, 
three basting spoonfuls of the water and 
lemon juice, put the ginger into this 
when it is boiling so it will soften and 
impart its flavor to the syrup; add the rest 
of the water; pour the ginger syrup into 
the freezer, when cool add the cream, 
beat it a n.oment and freeze. 

I275-PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM OR 
BISQUE. 

1 can of sliced pineapples. 

2 cups of sugar. 

I qt. of cream (see No. 1265). 

Chop the pineapple into small pieces, 
put it in a saucepan with the sugar 
and three basting spoonfuls of tlie jviice, 
let this simmer at the side of the range 
about ten miniites whip the cream until 
it is partly frothed and freeze it. Pound 
the pineapple and syrup through a colan- 
der in the freezer and finish; the pineapple 
syrup should be cooled before it is poured 
into the cream. 

][276— COCOANUT ICE CREAM. 

I qt. of cream. 

yi lb. of sugar (see No. 1265). 

5 ozs. of grated cocoanut. 

]4 teaspoonful of lemon extract. 
Mix all the ingredients together and 
freeze in the usual manner. 

1277— PISTACHIO ICE CREAM. 

For one gallon use 
ly^ quarts artificial cream. 
1%, quarts fresh cream. 
I lb. Pistachio nuts. 
Almond flavoring. 



Green vegetable coloring. 

Mix the artificial and fresh cream 
thoroughly, flavor very light!}' with the 
almond extract, then color a delicate pale 
green. When partly frozen add the nuts 
previously husked by scalding like al- 
monds. The pistachio nuts are sometimes 
difficult to obtain, especially in country 
towns. The cream can be made without 
the nuts by using a little more extract. 



1278— CORN STARCH ICE CREAM. 

3 pints of new milk. 

I lb. of sugar. 

i>^ ozs. corn starch (3 tablespoonfuls). 

5 whites of eggs. 

Piece of butter the size of a walnut. 

Extract. 

Put the sugar and milk in a bright 
kettle; when this boils stir in the starch, 
mixed in a half cup of cold milk, remove 
from the fire, beat in the butter; flavor, 
strain and freeze. When almost finished 
add the whites of eggs whipped to a stiff 
froth, and beat vigorously with a paddle 
until finished. 

1279— HICKORY NUT ICE CREAM, 
Made as directed at No. 1273 for pecan 
ice cream, hickory nuts being used in- 
stead of pecan nuts. 

1280— ALMOND BISQUE OR ICE 

CREAM. 

8 ozs. of sugar. 

8 ozs. almonds, a few bitter almonds 
mixed in. 

Blanch the almonds, split them and 
place them in a slack oven until they 
have acquired a nice straw color. Put 
the sugar in a bright kettle with a spoon- 
ful of water, and stir gently; when it has 
the color of light syrup, stir in the 
almonds and pour the mixture on a light- 
ly greased plate; when cold grind or 
pound the candy and put it on the fire in 
a quart of new milk. When this boils, 
add the yolks of 8 eggs previously well 
beaten, strain when cool, add a cup of 
rich cream, freeze. 



PRACTlCAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



213 



J281— CURACOA ICE CREAM. 

1 teacupful of curacoa. 

2 quarts of cream (see No. 1265). 
Sufficient caramel to give a light straw 

color. 

J280— MARASCHINO ICE CREAM. 

1 teacupful of Maraschino. 

2 qts. of cream. (See No. 1265). 

1283— PLUM ICE CREAM. 

Made as directed for pineapple ice 
cream. Use one pint of good rich 
flavored plums. 

i284-VIOLET ICE CREAM. 

Make as directed for vanilla ice cream. 
Flavor with extract of violet, and color a 
delicate l.'ivender with violet color paste. 
(See violet mousse). 

J285— BROWN BREAD ICE CREAM. 

2 slices of brown bread. 

Yz cup of of curacoa or orange syrup. 

2 quarts of cream. (See No. 1265J. 

Dry the brown bread in the oven; crush 
and sift it, then mix with the curacoa; 
pour in the cream; beat with a wii'e egg 
beater until thoroughly mixed; strain; 
freeze in the usual manner. 

1286— FROZEN FRUITS. 

Apples, oranges, peaches and pears 
must be stewed previous to being frozen. 
They are very fine in combination with 
plain creams or frozen custards, such as 
rice and tapioca. The same proportions 
should be observed in preparing either of 
the fruits mentioned. Pare and cut the 
fruit in thick slices, or if orange, divide 
i 1 quarters. 

For 24 oz. of prepared fruit use 

15 oz. of sugar. 

I y^ quarts of water. 

I large lemon. 

Make a boiling syrup of one pint of 
water and the sugar; then put in the fruit 
and the sliced lemon; put on a tight 
cover aud cook very gently until done. 
Take out the slices of friiit, lay them on 



a platter in a cold place — do not stir 
during the cooking or you would break 
the fruit— add the rest of the water to 
the syrup, strain in the freezer; when 
frozen add the fruit and finish with the 
paddle, but stir gently. 



<^ 



1287— SHREDDED WHEAT ICE 
CREAM. 
A delicious and healthful novelty can 
be produced by the u.se of crushed shred- 
ed whole wheat biscuit in any of the ice 
cream preparations given elsewhere, 
which do not contain fruit pulp, nuts, 
etc., but those such as vanilla, chocolate, 
lemon, coffee, marachino, curacoa, etc. 
These biscuits, so easily digested and so 
nutritive, will be found an agreeable 
surprise in combination with any of the 
plain creams. To every quart of cream 
add two biscuits previously crushed with 
the rolling pin. Freeze in the usual 
manner. 

I288-CREME FLEUR D'ORANGE. 
( Orange Flower Ice Cream ) . 

I qt. of cream. 

I qt. of custard. 

8 ozs. of sugar. 

Flavor with an infusion of orange 
flowers. Orange flower water, ready pre- 
pared, is easily obtainable. 

J289-TEA ICE CREAM. 

Made as directed for coffee ice cream, 
tea being used instead of coffee. Strong 
Oolong is preferable. 

1290— PEACH ICE CREAM. 

I qt. of cream. 

I qt. of ripe peaches, cut and peeled. 

I lb. of sugar. 

Cut the peaches small, strew over 
these about half of the sugar, dissolve 
the remainder in the cream, pour this in 
the freezer and when nearly frozen put 
in the cut peaches made very cold; mix 
carefully and pack down to freeze solid. 



214 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



J29I— ICED SPONGE. 

I lb. of sugar. 

I cup of water. 

13 3'olks of eggs. 

3 whites of eggs. 

Yz cup of maraschino. 

Put the water and sugar in a bright 
kettle, beat the yolks light and pour the 
boiling syrup on them, beat this until 
cold, pour it in the freezer, beating con- 
tinuously until frozen; add the mara- 
schino a spoonful at a time, when all in 
add the whites whipped stiff enough to 
hold up an ^^^ and finish with a vigor- 
ous beating. 

1292— NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM. 

This is a combination of three ice 
creams of different colors and flavors 
placed in equal layers in a tin box or 
mould made for the purpose (see engrav- 
ing), then frozen solid. 

Make three ice creams, say for instance 
chocolate, vanilla, strawberrj^ Have the 
molds freezing cold; fill these in equal 
layers, the white cream in the middle. 
This is best done with a light trowel 
which is made to fit snugly in the cor- 
ners. Put a greased paper in each of the 
lids; put rubber bands around each 
mould to keep the lids in place, pour 
melted butter in the interstices, place the 
moulds in the freezing tub, the ice pound ed 
fine as directed in the instructions for the 
freezing mixture about three hours or 
more, according to the size of moulds; it 
will then be frozen solid. When ready 
to serve wash the outside of the mould 
with a soft towel dipped in lukewarn 
water, remove the lids, take out the 
brick and serve on napkin or individual 
portion on plates made verj' cold. 

To be successful the packing or filling 
of the mould, also the serving, must be 
quickly accomplished. 

I293-VIENNA ICE CAKES. 
Paper cases made for the purposes are 
easily obtainable. They are made of 



made with double the quantity of sugar 
given in the regular recipes. It makes 
the cream very rich and a delicious 
frozen confection. When the cases are 
filled sprinkle crushed cocoanut or 
almond macaroons on top and place in 
an empty freezer with the lid on, put in 
pounded ice and salt packed all around 
and on top. 

J294-TUTTI FRUTTI. 

Can be made in square or melon shaped 
moulds. 

Make i quart of orange ice as directed 
elsewhere; line the bottom and sides of a 
two-quart brick or melon shaped mould. 
To coat the the inside, put the mould in 
the freezing mixture to freeze the coating 
solid. 

Make a pint of custard as directed at 
No. 13 16; flavor it with caramel and a 
few drops of extract of orange. Prepare 
two cups of cut candied fruit, and nuts; 
almonds, blanched and split cut figs; 
raisins steeped in orange syrup; citron, 
dates, candied pine apple, cherries, etc. 
Freeze the custard, mix with the cut 
fruit previously made very cold. Now 
fill the mould coated with the orange ice; 
spread more of the ice on top; put down 
the lid; fill the interstices with butter; 
freeze and serve as directed for Neapoli- 
tan ice cream. 

J295-ORNAMENTAL ICE CREAM. 
Ice cream may be served in fancy 
forms, large and individual sizes deco- 
rated with leaves, etc. , made of gelatine, 
also in cups made of various colored ices 
with but a little extra labor. Try them; 
you may not succeed the first time but 
practice will in a very short time enable 
you to produce ornamental ice credm of 
a very artistic and attractive nature. 

1296— GELATINE TO ORNAMENT 
ICE CREAM. 
I package of Knox's Granualated Gela- 



brown paper to imitate cakes, of a size : tine, 
suitable for individual portions. Fill i 4 ozs. of sugar, 
them with almond bisque and orange j Flavoring extract. 
ice, or vanilla and strawberry ice cream, I i qt. of water. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



215 



Put the gelatine in a bowl with a cup 
of cold water, make a boiling syrup of 
the sugar and what is left of the water, 
pour this over the gelatine, color and 
flavor, then strain. When nearly cold 
pour it on large platters; when set firm 
stamp out leaves, etc. Lemon, or any 
other jelly which has been prepared for 
the table, can be used by reducing it 
half by slow boiHng, 



^ 



1297— ICED CUPS. 

Individual mould made of tin in the 
shape of a tumbler, say 2j^ inches in 
■diameter at the base and 234 inches in 
diameter at the top, 3>^ to 4 inches high. 
Place these tin cups or moulds in a tub 
of freezing mixture no deeper than the 
cups. Fill them with S}'rup made of 8 
■ounces of sugar to every quart of water 
and flavored with orange, lemon, straw- 
berry, etc. Color a bright red, green 
or yellow, cover the tub with a cloth or 
anything else suitable and let stand 
about 35 minutes, the cups will then 
have a lining of the freezing syrup about 
3-16 of an inch thick. Pour out the 
unfrozen syrup and replace the cups in 
the tub to freeze dr}-. 

Make almond bisque, vanilla or any 
ice cream that will contrast pleasantly 
with the color of the cups; fill these with 
the cream, keep the tub tightly covered 
and well supplied with pounded ice and 
salt; when ready to serve wipe the out- 
side of the cups with a cloth dipped in 
lukewarm water, turn out on a cold 
plate and serve quickly. 



J298— COMBINATION ICE CREAM. 

Make equal quantities of pistachio and 
rose ice cream, serve a spoonful of each 
in stem glasses or plates previously 
made very cold. 



^ 



J299— COMBINATION ICE No. 2. 

White lemon flavored ice cream. 

Raspberry ice. 

Make equal quantities of corn starch 



ice cream, No. 1278, and raspberry ice 
as directed in No. 1337, flavor the cream 
with extrax^t of lemon, serve in flat glass 
dishes, the white cream as a border and 
the scarlet or red ice piled in the middle, 

J300— COMBINATION ICE No. 3, 

Make equal quantities of white cherry 
ice cream, No. 1268, and Concord grape 
ice, No. 1329; serve as directed for other 
combination ices. 

i30I— COMBINATION ICE No. 4. 

Equal quantities of strawberry or red 
, cherrj' ice and almond bisque, pecan o^ 
j hickory nut ice cream; can be made in 
j bricks or served in broad champagne 
j glasses, the ice as a border with the 
I cream heaped in the middle. 

j ^ 

J302-<:OMBrNATION ICE No. 5. 
Equal quantities of orange ice and 
'chocolate ice cream. Make a border of 
1 the cream and pile the ice in the middle. 



1303— COMBINATION ICE No. {>. 

Equal quantities of raspberry ice and 
best vanilla ice cream. Make a border 
of the ice and pile the cream in the 
middle. 

J304— COMBINATION ICE No. 7. 

Almond bisque and lemon or oxange 
ice; serve as directed in previous recipies, 

J305— MOUSSES. 

(Iced Froths) 

Are creams variously flavored and 
colored, whipped and then frozen. The 
original way of making this mousse or 
froth was to whip the cream to a light 
froth then placed on a fine seive, drained, 
put in glasses and frozen. Some of our 
recipes difl^er from this as they contain 
gelatine, etc. Nevertheless, they come 
under the title of mousses, and will be 
found very agreeable both as to the mak- 
ing and eating. 



2l6 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



I3C6— VIOLET MOUSSE. 

yi box gelatine. 

Yz cup cold water. 

I quart cream. 

I «^ cups of powdered sugar (no lumps). 

I tablespoonful of sherry. 

Violet extract and color. 

Soak the gelatine in the water, then 
dissolve over hot water. Whip the cream 
in a basin, add the gelatine, then the 
sugar and sherry. ( The sherry can be 
omitted if not desired). Flavor; color a 
delicate lavender with violet paste. Stir 
the mixture until slightly thickened. 
Wet with cold water a Neapolitan or 
fancy mould; turn in the mixture; cover 
with a greased paper, greased side up; 
force on the cover and pack in ice and 
salt. It must remain in the freezing 
mixture at least two hours. When ready 
to serve, turn out on a fancy platcer; gar- 
nish with crystalized or candied violets. 

1307— STRAWBERRY MOUSSE. 

I qt. ripe strawberries. 

I qt. cream. 

I lb. sugar. 

I small cup of water. 

Pick and wash the berries carefully; 
strew the sugar over them; let stand one 
hour, then mash and rub through a seive, 
using the cup of water to facilitate the 
operation. Partly freeze the syrup; whip 
the cream; beat it in; pack in amouldand 
freeze solid. 

J* 

1308— COFFEE MOUSSE. 
Make the custard as directed at No. 
13 1 6; flavor it with a cup of black coffee; 
vjhen cold mix with a quart of whipped 
cream and freeze in a mould. 

1309— VANILLA MOUSSE. 

I qt. of cream. 

8 ozs. of sugar. 

Extract of vanilla. 

Sweeten and flavor the cream more 
highly than for ordinary ice cream; place 
in a shallow bowl; whip or churn with a 
Dover beater or whip churn; skim and 
place the froth on a line seive to drain. 
When all whipped, put the froth thus 



obtained in the glasses in which it is to 
be served; put these in an ice cave until 
frozen. (See illustrations). 

I3J0— LEMON MOUSSE. 
Made as directed in the preceding 
recipe. Plavor with lemon instead of 
vanilla. 

1311— CHOCOLATE MOUSSE. 

I pint of chocolate ice cream prepara- 
tion. 

I pint of whipped cream. 

Make both very cold, mix, and freeze 
in a mould. 

I3I2— PEACH MOUSSE. 

(Mousse ail Peches) 

I lb. of sugar. 

I qt. of cream. 

Yz pint of ripe peach pulp. 

I pint of water. 

Yz oz. of gelatine. 

Dissolve the gelatine in half of the 
water; make a syrup of the sugar and 
what remains of the water; pour the hot 
s)'rup to the peach pulp; add the gelatine; 
whip in a bowl placed in a pan of ice 
water; when cold, mix in the whipped 
cream; freeze in a mould. A few drops 
of extract of vanilla will greatly improve 
the flavor. 

13 i3— FROZEN NESSELRODE 
PUDDING. 

1 lb. of chestnuts. 

2 cups of boiled custard. 

2 cups of cream. 

A basting spoonful of shredded citron. 
As much of seedless Sultana raisins and 
candied pineapple. 

3 basting spoonfuls of Maraschino. 

A teaspoonful of e.xtract of vanilla. 

Boil the chestnuts about thirty min- 
utes, peel and pound them through a 
sieve, adding half the cream to facilitate 
the operation ; add to this pulp the boiled 
custard; freeze the mixture and when 
firm whip the remaining cream, stir it in 
and whip again, then add the shredded 
citron, candied pineapple, raisins, Maras- 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



217 



chino and flavoring extract; freeze again 
and serve in fancy ice cream plates, or 
pack it in moulds to be frozen firm and 
sent to the table on a folded napkin 
placed on a fancy dish. 



^ 



I3H- 



-FROZEN DIPLOMATIC PUD- 
DING. 

1 cup of rich custard flavored with 
vanilla. 

2 cups of rich cream. 

A cupful of good candied green gages 
and cherries. 

2 dozen of lady fingers. 

Freeze the custard, add in the whipped 
cream and freeze again. Have one or- 
dinary square brick mould ready in 
pounded ice and salt, put in a layer of 
the ice cream and then one of lady 
fingers, strew some of the candied fruit 
cut small, and continue in this manner 
until the mould is full, having some of 
the cream for the last layer, put a waxed 
paper on top and put on the iid as 
directed in No. 1292, and pack in pound- 
ed ice and salt and let remain three and 
a half hours; serve as directetl for Nessel- 
rode pudding. 

1.3 15 -FROZEN FIG PUDDING. 

I lb. of figs. 

I quart of milk. 

8 yolks of eggs. 

14 ozs. of .sugar. 

Caramel. 

Take four tablespoonfuls of the sugar 
and put it in a small frying pan with a 
tablespoonful of water; let it melt and 
boil down until it becomes the color of 
light molasses, but it must not not burn; 
pour in a half cupful of water and let it 
dis.solve. Make a custard of the milk, 
sugar and 3-olks; pour the caramel into 
it and strain immediately into the freezer; 
cut the figs very small, put them in the 
mixture and freeze in the usual way; it 
will look better if packed and frozen in 
Neapolitan ice cream moulds. 

I3J6-FROZEN CUSTARD. 
I qt. of milk. 
}4 lb. of sugar. 



10 yolks of eggs. 

Vanilla extract. 

Boil the milk and sugar together; beat 
the yolks light and pour the boiling milk 
and sugar over them, cook a minute 
longer and take it off as soon as it 
thickens slightly; strain in the freezer; 
beat it a few minutes with a wire egg 
beater and freeze. 

J3 17— FROZEN TAPIOCA CUSTARD. 

I qt. of milk. 

8 ozs. of sugar. 

6 ozs. of tapioca. 

A basting spoonful of butter. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

A teacupful of cream. 

Vanilla flavoring. 

Put the tapioca in half the milk and 
place the dish in a warm place; let it 
stand two and a half hours; boil the rest 
of the milk with the sugar in it, add the 
tapioca and boil fifteen minutes; stirring: 
almost constantly to prevent scorching 
it is best when cooked in a double dish ; 
1 stir in the butter, then the beaten yolks; 
take off immediately from the fire, cool, 
flavor and freeze like ice cream; when it 
is almost finished whip the cream to a 
froth and beat it in. 



J318-FROZEiM RICE CUSTARD. 

Make like frozen tapioca custard, with 
rice washed in several waters instead of 
tapioca. (See No. 1317). 

J3J9— FROZEN SAGO CUSTARD. 

Made as directed for frozen tapioca 
custard, the sago steeped in like manner 
in milk and cooked only a few minutes. 

J320— LEMON SHERBET. 
4 lemons. 
I % lbs. of sugar. 

3 pints of water. 

4 whites of eggs. 

Squeeze the juice of the lemons in a 
bowl, make a boiling syrup of the sugar 
and water and the grated lemon rind; 
pour this in the bowl with the lemon juice 
and let it get cold , strain this into the 



2l8 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



freezer with the four whites of eggs not 
beaten, beat the mixture with a wire egg 
beaten a few minutes and freeze; this 
ice is perfectly white and very light. 

I32I-PARISIAN SHERBET. 

3 cups of water. 

1)4 cups of port wine. 

1 lb. of sugar. 

2 oranges. 
I lemon. 

I nutmeg. 

4 ozs. of seedless Sultana raisins. 
4 whites of eggs. 

I ed coloring. 

Make a syrup of the water and sugar, 
cut the oranges and lemon in small 
slices, put them in a bowl and pour the 
hot syrup over this, throw in the raisins 
and broken nutmeg with them; when 
cold strain the syrup into the freezer, add 
the wine and sufficient coloring to make 
it a deep pink and add the whites 
of eggs as directed elsewhere, add the 
sliced fruit and the raisins last; the seeds 
must be excluded, as it will make the 
sherbet bitter. 

J322— APPLE SHERBET. 

i}4 lbs. of sliced apples, a ripe mellow 
kind. 

^ lb. of sugar. 

4 coffee cupful s of water. 

I lemon. 

Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and 
a cup of the water, throw in the sliced 
apples, add the lemon cut in pieces, cover 
with a lid and let it cook slowly a few 
minutes, strain the apples and set on ice; 
add the remainder of the water to the 
syrup and freeze; when almost frozen 
throw in the apple and finish freezing. 
Pears, peaches, apricots or any other 
kind of fruit can be frozen as described 
for apples and served in combination 
with plain cream or frozen custard. 

1323— PINEAPPLE SHERBET. 

Made with the same proportion of in- 
gredients as directed for pineapple ice, 
the pineapple pounded through a coarse 



sieve; add the whites of 4 eggs without 
beating before the mixture is frozen and 
do not color. 



J324— FLORENTINE SHERBET. 

I cup of sv.-eet wine. 

I cup of water. 

8 ozs. of sugar. 

I lemon. 

j4 lb. of almonds, blanched and split. 

3 cups of white grapes. Muscatel pre- 
ferred, carefully picked. 

Stew half of the grapes with the water 
and sugar; when cooked tender put the 
contents of the stew pans in a strainer 
placed over the freezer, rub the pulp 
through, add the wine; cut the lemon 
lengthwise, then cut the halves in thick 
slices, remove the seeds and throw these 
in the freezer; freeze, and finish by add- 
ing the remainder of the grapes and 
almonds, previously made very cold. 

1325— HAVANA ICE. 

Make equal quantities of golden frozen 
custard (No. 1316) and orange sherbet 
colored a delicate pink, with fresh grated 
cocoanut and pieces of orange mixed in. 
Serve in broad champagne glasses. Make 
a border of the frozen custard with the 
back of the spoon, and the pink sherbet 
piled in the middle. (See recipe No. 
1326). 

1326— ORANGE ICE. 

3 pints of water. 

I }4 lbs. of sugar. 

5 oranges. 

The juice of one lemon, if the oranges 
are very sweet. 

Whites of four eggs. 

Make a syrup of the sugar and a half 
cup of the water; peel half the oranges, 
divide these in portions, pull apart by 
the natural division, throw these pieces 
in the boiling syrup; grate the rind of 
the remaining oranges into the bowl, 
squeeze in the juice, also the juice of the 
lemon, pour in the syrup from the 
scalded oranges through a strainer, keep 
the pieces on ice to be mixed in last, add 
the remainder of the water to the con- 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



219 



tents of the bowl and strain into the 
freezer; put in the whites of eggs (not 
beaten), and the pieces of oranges 
when finished. A good accompaniment 
for almond bisque. 

1327— PEACH ICE. 

i}4 qts. of peeled and stoned peaches, 
must be ripe and mellow. 
I lb. of sugar. 

1 qt. of water. 

A coffee cupful of red currant jelly. 
A small half of the peach kernels. 

2 whites of eggs. 

Cut half of the peaches in pieces as 
large as cherries, put the water, sugar, 
chopped kernels and the other half of 
the peaches together in a sauce pan and 
boil a few minutes, mash the peaches 
with the back of a spoon, put in the 
currant jelly; take out the kernels and 
press through a strainer, freeze, and add 
the beaten whites of the eggs when the 
mixture is almost frozen, add at the same 
time the cut up peaches. Can be served 
plain or with vanilla ice cream spread 
in individual dishes with the peach ice 
piled in the center. 

1328— GRAPE ICE. 

i}4 qts. of sweet white grapes picked 
from the stem. 

I cup of angelica wine. 

I cup of water. 

}4 lb. of sugar. 

^ of a large ripe lemon. 

8 ozs. of blanched almonds. 

Stew half the grapes in the water and 
sugar, then strain the syrup and rub the 
pulp through a sieve into a freezer, add 
the wine and the lemon cut in slices and 
freeze this mixture; when almost frozen 
drop in the blanched almonds, give a 
few more turns and add the remaining 
grapes kept cold on ice, do not turn any 
more, but cover the ice so it will freeze 
solid. 

^; 

1329— CONCORD GRAPE ICE. 
I cupful of Concord grapes picked from 
the stem. 

I lb. of sugar. 



4 cups of water. 

The juice of a small lemon. 

Mash the grapes and sugar together, 
add the lemon juice and water, strain 
into the freezer with all the pulp it is 
possible to rub through; freeze, and 
when almost done beat with the paddle 
until the color is lighter and the freezing 
finished. 

1330— APRICOT ICE. 

1^4 piuts of apricots cut in small pieces. 
}4 lb. of sugar. 

1 pint of water. 

Kernels of half the apricots. 

2 whites of eggs. 

Keep a cup of the cut apricots to be 
added to the ice; when finished stew the 
remainder with the water, sugar and 
peeled kernels, rub the fruit with a 
.spoon through a sieve into the freezer 
along with the syrup, then freeze; when 
it is nearly finished add the whites of 
two eggs whipped to a firm froth, freeze 
rapidly for a short time, then stir in the 
cut fruit; pack it in more ice and salt 
and when firmly frozen it is ready to 



1331— RED CHERRY ICE. 

I qt. of sweet red cherries. 

I pint of water. 

^ lb. of sugar. 

Mash the fruit thoroughly, breaking 
the stones, strain the juice into a freezer, 
boil the remaining pulp with half of the 
sugar and water, press this through a 
strainer into the freezer, add the remain- 
ing water and sugar and freeze.- This 
ice will be light and smooth without the 
addition of the whites of eggs. 

1332— STRAWBERRY : 

I qt. of strawberries. 

I lb. of sugar. 

3 cups of water. 

Clean and wash the strawberries, drain 
them carefully, put the sugar over them 
and let stand an hour, mash them, rub 
through a strainer into the freezer, add 
the water and freeze without beating. 
Part of the berries may be reserved to 
add in when the ice is frozen. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



1333— CURRANT ICE. 
Make as directed for strawberry ice. 



J334-PINEAPPLE ICE. 
I can of pineapple. 
I lb. of sugar. 
I qt. of water. 

4 whites of eggs. 

Strain the juice into the freezer, make 
a syrup of the sugar, half the water and 
the pineapple previously cut in small 
pieces, let boil five minutes and strain 
into the freezer; add the remaining water 
and whites of eggs not beaten, and 
enough coloring to make it pink, 
throw in the pieces of pineapple when 
finished, and let it remain until ready 
to serve, and if they have not well 
mixed in the ice stir them in a little. 

I335-PUNCH A LA RICHELIEU. 
I pint of port or amonlillado. 
I pint of claret. 

1 qt. of water. 
20 ozs. of sugar. 

2 large oranges (blood oranges" pre- 
ferred ) . 

20 whole cloves. 

5 whites of eggs. 

Place the oranges in the oven until 
baked a light brown; make a boiling 
svrup of the sugar, water and cloves, put 
the whole baked oranges in this syrup 
and let stand until cold, then strain into 
the freezer, squeeze the juice from the 
oranges and add with the wines and the 
whites of eggs not whipped, color a 
bright red; serve in punch goblets. 

J336— ORANGE AND COCOANUT 
ICE. 

I cup of port wine. 

1 pint of water. 
% lb. of sugar. 

2 oranges. 
I lemon. 

yi lb. of desiccated cocoanut. 

^ cup of raspberry juice, or sufficient 
coloring to make it a bright pink. 

Make a syrup of the water and sugar; 
slice the lemon and oranges, take out 



the seeds, put the slices in an earthern 
bowl and pour the boiling syrup over 
them, let stand three-fourths of an hour, 
then strain the syrup into the freezer, 
add the wine and coloring, then freeze; 
cool the oranges, cocoanut and lemon 
slices on ice and stir them in when the 
preparation is nearly frozen; repack the 
contents of the freezer and let stand an 
hour or so, until firmly frozen. 

J337— RASPBERRY ICE. 

I qt. of vdld raspberries. 

% lb. of sugar. 

I pint of water. 

White of two eggs. 

Pick out a cupful of the best rasp- 
berries and keep them to put in the ice 
last. Make a syrup of the sugar and 
half of the water, pour it over the rasp- 
berries, mash them with the back of a 
spoon, then put them in a strainer and 
rub through into the freezer; beat the 
eggs to a froth and put them in the 
freezer, finish freezing and then drop in 
the cup of raspberries reserved for the 
purpose; pack the freezer with more ice 
and salt and let it remain until the con- 
tents are firm; can be served with 
whipped cream or plain vanilla ice cream 
with the red ice piled in the hollow 
middle. 

1338— ROMAN PUNCH. 
I lb. of sugar. 

3 cups of water. 

The juice and rinds of three lemoms. 

4 whites of eggs. 

% teacupful each of white rum and 
angelica wine. 

The rind of one orange and the juice 
of four. 

Grate the rinds of the orange and 
lemons into a bowl, then squeeze in the 
juice of all the lemons and oranges ex- 
cluding the seeds, make a syrup of half 
the water and the sugar, partly cool it 
and pour it on the juice and grated rinds, 
when cold add the wine and the rest of 
the water and strain into the freezer, 
when partly frozen add the whipped 
whites, beat a few minutes, add the rum, 
beat and finish freezing. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



J339— STRAWBERRY PUNCH. 

Prepare strawberries as directed for 
strawberry ice, put in a cup of wine, 
color it a deep pink and freeze in the 
usual way. 

J340— PUNCH A LA RUSSE. 

A pint of black tea made of an ounce 
of tea to a quart of water. 

1 cup of port wine. 

3 basting spoonfuls of brandy. 
12 ozs. of sugar. 

2 small lemons. 
Caramel coloring. 

Cut the lemons in thin slices, put them 
in an earthern bowl, make a boiling 
syrup of the water and sugar, pour this 
over the lemon, let it get cold, then add 
a pint of tea, the wine and brandy, strain 
the punch into the freezer; put the 
lemon slices on ice and add them to the 
punch wlien finished; use enough of the 
caramel coloring to make it the color of 
ginger ale. The liquors in this punch 
will not allow it to freeze as firm as fruit 
punches. 

J34 1— IMPERIAL PUNCH. 

3 cups of water. 

1 small pineapple. 

2 oranges. 
2 lemons. 

I .small nutmeg. 

4 whites of eggs. 

A cupful of maraschino, kirsch and 
Curacao in equal parts. 

^ pint of champagne. 

Grate the pineapple, add the lemon 
rind and juice, also the orange rind and 
juice and broken nutmeg, make a hot 
syrup of the water and sugar, pour it on 
the fruit and let stand until perfectly 
cold, stram and squeeze the syrup from 
the pineapple, freeze, and add the whites 
beaten to a stiff froth in the usual man- 
ner; a few minutes before serving add 
the cup of mixed cordials and the pint 
of champagne. 

)1342— ANGELICA PUNCH. 
I pint of angelica wine. 
I pint of water. 



8 ozs. of sugar. 

^2 lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 

1 lemon. 

Whites of two eggs. 

2 ozs. of pulverized sugar. 

Chop the raisins and grate the lemon 
rind and squeeze in all the juice, pour 
the hot water over them, add the sugar 
and stir until it is all dissolved; strain 
the syrup into a freezer, then rub most 
of the pulp through it, add the wine, 
then freeze; when nearly frozen whip the 
whites of eggs to a tiff froth, add the 
pulverized sugar to them, beat a moment 
longer and mix in with the contents of 
the freezer and finish freezing. 

1343— VICTORIA PUNCH. 

3 oranges. 
6 lemons. 

i^y4 lbs. of sugar. 
I qt. of water. 
I cup of angelica wine. 
}4 teacupful of rum. 

4 whites of eggs. 

Grate the rind of the lemon into a 
bowl, add the rum, stir it a few minutes 
to obtain the flavor, squeeze in the juice 
of the oranges and lemon, add the rest 
of the ingredients and fieeze; beat the 
whites to a firm froth, stir them in when 
the mixture is almost frozen, beat up and 
finish freezing. 

1344— GENEVA PUNCH. 

5 cups of water. 
I lb. of sugar. 

3 lemons. 

I orange. 

I cupful of pineapple. 

A basting spoonful of gin. 

A teacupful of champagne or angelica 
wine. 

Grate the rinds of the lemons and 
oranges into a bowl, squeeze in the juice, 
add half of the water; then make a boil- 
ing syrup of the sugar and the other 
half of the water and pour it over the 
contents of the bowl; strain in the freezer; 
chop the pineapple and put it in, add the 
gin, champagne and wine, color it a del- 
icate pink and freeze. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



1345— KIRSCHWASSER PUNCH. 

I qt. of water. 

1% lbs. of sugar. 

The juice of two large ripe lemons. 

A cupful of kirschwasser. 

4 whites of eggs. 

Mix all of the ingredients cold, strain 
into the freezer, add the whites of eggs 
without beating and freeze rapidly. 

1346— PUNCH A LA REGENCE. 
I pint of water. 
I cup of gin. 

1 lemon. 

yi lb. of sugar. 

yi teacupful of kirsch. 

2 bottles of soda water. 

Giate the rind of the lemon into an 
earthern bowl, moisten with half the 



gin and rub with a small masher to ex- 
tract the flavor, add the juice of the 
lemon and all the ingredients but the 
soda water, strain into the freezer and 
freeze it as firm as possible, then add the 
soda water and finish the freezing. 
The spirits contained in this preparation 
will not allow this punch to be frozen 
very much. 

1347— ICE BOX OR CAVE 

Can be procured ready made of any fur- 
nisher but they are rather expensive, and 
something may be improvised which will 
answer the purpose just as well. A 
clothes boiler with a tight lid placed in 
a box with pounded ice and salt packed 
all around and on top will do the service 
of the best ice box or cave. 





Ice Cave 



Ice Cream Mould 





Melon Mould r, . i xt t. -rtt tj 

For Nesselrode Pudding, Pressed Meat, Brick Or Neapolitan Mould 

etc., etc. 




Egg Beater 




Ice Cream Dishing Spoon 




Trowel 

For the filling of ice cream brick moulds. 



Chocolates^ Cream Drops^ Jellies, Bon Bons, 
Stick Candy, Etc* 



NOTES ON CANDY MAKING. 

It may appear at first sight that the 
following recipes demand a larger outlay 
than most amateur candy makers might 
want to invest, but upon second consider- 
ation it will be seen that the cost of such 
articles as those needed in the making of 
the confections which are given in this 
book IS within the means of the most 
economical. The confections which it 
will be possible to produce are a constant 
source of amusement and profit. 

Unlimited variations can be produced 
from the fundamental formulae, such as 
fondant, jellies, stick candy, toys, etc. 
From the fondant No. 1348 rose, straw- 
berry, raspberry, violet, orange, lemon, 
pineapple, cinnamon, pistachio and 
scores of other bon bons can be made, 
simply by the use of the different extracts 
and color paste — pink, red, lavender, 
orange, yellow and green respectively. 
These can be crystalized (see No. 1363) 
or dipped in water icing (see No. 1366), 
thus creating an almost endless variety 
of delicately colored bon bons. 

Many of the old fashioned confectioners 
do not use a thermometer. This demands 
a great deal of experience. Now, if you 
use the thermometer you know just 
where you are all the time and can take 
off your batch just at the right moment, 
and this very often means success. 

Another indispensable article is the 
marble slab, which can be procured of 
any marble dealer; 3x1^ feet is a very 
good size, and four iron rods half an inch 
square to put around the edge of the 
marble to keep the boiling syrup from 
running over when it is poured on. 

The best cream of tartar only must be 
used; it prevents granulation, and the 
proportion should be carefully main- 



{ tained, for if too nuich is used the candy 
will remain stick}' and soft, or melt to 
syrup again. 

J* 

1348— FONDANT, OR CREAM. 

Fondant, or cream, as commonly called 
by confectioners, is the article which 
forms the basis of all cream bonbons, and 
is also used for covering jellies, cake, etc. 
A number of the following recipes refer 
to this cream, which can be kept in a 
covered jar for a long time. 

The making of fondant may appear 
difficult but it is the key to success 
in candy making, and so cheap that 
it ought to be given just considera- 
tion. 

10 lbs. best "A" sugar. 

5 pints of water. 

I teaspoonful of best cream of tartar. 

Put the sugar and water in a bright 
kettle over a brisk fire. When it begins 
to boil add the cream of tartar; it is then 
time to use the thermometer; put it in the 
boiling mixture, and when the mercury 
shows 244 take off the fire, and set the 
kettle in a tub of cold water. "While it is 
still warm, but not hot, stir briskly with 
a long handled wood paddle until the 
mixture turns very white and creamy. 
Just before beginning to stir flavor with 
two tablcspoonfuls of vanilla or one of 
extract of lemon, or it may be colored 
pink, lavender, orange, etc., and flavor to 
taste with any kind of extract, or it may 
be left plain and flavored as wanted. 
When beginning to stir, the motion 
should be regular, as otherwise it might 
granulate. When creamed, pour it out 
of the kettle and work it with the hands 
as you would dough until all lumps have 
disappeared and the cream is of uniform 



224 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



texture. Place in a covered stone jar 
readv for use. 



J349-CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS 
No. I, 

Roll pieces of the fondant No. 1348 to 
the size and shape of ordinary marbles, 
and place them on strips of paper slightly 
greased. Get ready the chocolate dipping 
mixture as directed in No. 135 1, or plain 
chocolate melted in a bowl set in boiling 
water; drop in the balls two at a time, 
lift them out with a fork and replace on 
the greased paper to dry in a cool place. 



1350 -CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS 

No. 2. 

'/z lb. of pulverized or icing sugar. 

I tea.spoonful of powdered gum arabic. 

A basting spoonful of Vjoiling water. 

.V teaspoonful of extract of vanilla 

Chocolate. 

Cut or break the chocolate in a tin 
cup and set this in a small pan of hot 
water, let it melt ready to dip in the 
drops; dissolve the gum arabic in the 
boiling water and stir in the sugar; there 
nmst be enough sugar to make a stiff 
dough, adding the vanilla when the 
sugar is stirred in, turn on the table, roll 
it to a cord and cut off in balls the size 
of hazel nuts and dip in the chocolate as 
directed in No. 1349. 

i35I— BEST CHOCOLATE CREAM 
DROPS. 

r*Iake the inside as directed in No. 1350 
or 1348, make the balls in plain or fancy 
shapes and dip them in chocolate icing 
prepared as follows : 

I cup of icing sugar. 

4 tablespoonfuls of water. 

3 ounces of chocolate. 

Grate the chocolate and stir it in with 
the water and sugar and melt gradually 
at the side of the range where it will not 
get too hot; when it has become hot 
enough to boil beat it thoroughly to mix 
it and dip in the drops; if the icing gets 
cool set the dish in hot water. 



1352— CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS. 

Make white cream candy as described 
for lemon cream candy; flavor with 
vanilla, when nearly cold mould the candy 
in your fingers the size of hazel nuts. 
Melt common chocolate at the side of 
the range and dip the drops by means of 
a fork in the chocolate and set them in 
buttered pans to cool and set. Various 
shapes can be made with the same ma- 
terial . 



^ 



1353— CHOCOLATE DOMINOES. 

Make the cream mixture as directed in 
No. 1350 or 1348 for chocolate cream 
drops; roll it out thin and pour a layer 
of melted chocolate upon it, when cold 
cut into squares and dot with white icing 
to imitate dominoes. 



^ 



B54-CHOCOLATE CANDY TO 
PULL. 

I lb. of sugar. 

I lb. of syrup. 

I cupful of cream. 

I oz. of grated chocolate. 

Flavoring. 

Boil the cream, syrup and sugar to- 
gether about fifteen minutes, then throw 
in the chocolate and boil until the candy 
sets brittle in cold water; pour on dishes, 
flavor with vanilla when cold enough to 
handle and pull. 

J355-CHOCOLATE CREAM BAR. 

Grease some paper and fit it carefully 
around the sides and bottom of a pan one 
inch and a half high; melt some chocolate 
or prepare the chocolate dipping mixture 
as directed in No. 135 1; pour it in the pan 
to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 
Take sufficient of the cream No. 1348, put 
it in the candy kettle and stir continually 
over the fire until melted; pour it over 
the chocolate in the pan to the thickness 
of an inch; when this is cool put a layer of 
chocolate on top similar to that put in the 
bottom (X of an inch thick); when cold, 
take out and cut it in narrow bars. 



Improved Candy Funnel. 




Used to run bon bons and various other 
confectionery in starch. It is worked b}^ 
a spiral spring and can be easily regulated 



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PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



225 



J356— COCOANUT CHOCOLATE 
DROPS. 

Make the following cream: 

2 lbs. of sugar. 
1%, ozs. of glucose. 

3 gills of water. 

Put this in the candy kettle and boil to 
244 degrees; then proceed as directed at 
No. 1348; when ready to cream add half 
of a cocoanut grated fine; give it a little 
extra kneading; run in starch mould or 
shape cold as directed for chocolate 
drops, and dip in melted chocolate. 



S 



J357- 



-MARSHMALLOW CHOCO- 
LATES. 
Make the marshmallow as directed in 
No. 135S; when just taken out of the 
starch moulds cover with chocolate as 
directed in No. 1350 for chocolates. 

J358— MARSHMALLOWS. 

I lb. of gum arable. 

I 1-5 pints of water. 

% lb. of glucose. 

I lb. of sugar. 

10 whites of eggs. 

Grind the gum fine, put it in the candy 
kettle, add the water, place on the fire 
and stir until melted, then add the glu- 
cose and mix it thoroughl}'^; then strain 
into a White Mountain ice cream freezer 
with very hot water in the tub around 
the can, add the sugar and start the 
beater slowly until the sugar is dissolved, 
then add the whites of eggs beaten stiff 
enough to hold up an egg, turn rapidly 
and beat light; if beaten too light it will 
fall. Now flavor with powdered vanilla 
bean mixed carefully through the batch; 
add i-io of a pint of glycerine, this must 
just be worked in the batch, as too much 
working will make it fall; remove the 
beater and dip the paste in a candy 
funnel (see illustration page No. 222), 
and drop in impression made in dry 
starch (see No. 1361), place the trays in a 
room where the air is dry and the temper- 
ature moderate; let them stand two days, 
then take out of starch and dust them 
off carefully, put a little fine sugar in a 
deep tray, place a layer of the marsh- 
mallows, cover over with sugar and con- 



tinue until the tray is full or the drops 
are all covered. Cover with a clean 
cloth and let stand about 6^ hours; they 
are then ready to use. 

J359— CHOCOLATE BON BONS. 

Melt a sufl&cient quantity of the cream 
No. 1349 in a bright kettle, flavor with 
vanilla and stir in enough grated choco- 
late to color light brown, proceed as 
directed for vanilla cream bon bons No. 
1362. 

1360— HUNGARIAN CHOCOLATE 
LOAF. 

lyi lbs. of sugar. 

i^ pints of water. 

^ lb. of chocolate. 

4 ®z. of butter. 

^ a teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 

I tablespoonful extract of vanilla. 

Put the sugar and water in the candy 
kettle over a moderate fire; when this 
boils add the cream of tartar, put in the 
thermometer and when the mercury 
shows 231 degrees add the chocolate and 
butter. Stir constantly and try it often 
with the finger as directed in No. 1379; 
when it can be rolled up to a soft ball it 
is done. Then put in the vanilla and 
stir until the mixture is quite stiff, 
then put it in a greased pan; when cold 
it will cut like hard butter. 

1361— BON BONS. 

This name is given to goods produced 
from fondant or cream (see No. 1348). 
The different varieties of shape, color 
and flavor are produced from the same 
formula. It is of course necessary to 
possess moulds or forms for different vari- 
eties, but these are easily obtainable and 
are very cheap. They are made of wood 
or plaster of paris. The impressions are 
made in fine dry starch placed in a 
wooden tray about two feet by six inches 
wide and one and a half inches deep, 
which is filled with the starch and struck 
off even with a smooth round stick. 
Glue the models of the bon bons on a 
flat board about one and a half inches 
apart, press these gently their full depth 



226 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



in the starch. The cream is next melted 
and poured in these impressions 
by means of a candy funnel, which is 
filled with the melted cream as the illus- 
tration shows; these funnels are fitted 
with a plug which prevents its dripping. 
By gently lifting the plug the cream can 
be poured in each depression and shut 
off continuously until all are filled. 

J362— VANILLA CREAM BON BONS. 

Take of the cream No. 1348, put the 
required quantity in a small copper ket- 
tle, place over the fire and stir until 
melted, flavor with vanilla and pour it 
in impression as directed in No. 1361; 
then let them harden two or three days. 
They may be crystallized (see No. 1363. 

J363— CRYSTALLIZATION. 

This operation consists simply in en- 
veloping bon bons and other confections 
in a thin coating of crystals, which ren- 
ders them almost impervious to the ac- 
tion of the atmosphere and greatly adds 
to their appearance. The articles to be 
crystallized should be put in pans about 
two and a half inches deep, then put in 
a bright kettle . as much water as will 
more than fill the pans. For each gal- 
lon of water, use seven pounds of sugar 
and boil to 225 degrees, remove from the 
fire and let cool until lukewarm, then 
pour enough in the pans to cover the 
articles to be crystallized; let stand ten 
hours in a warm place, then pour off the 
syrup and let them dry well before turn- 
ing out. 

J364-COCOANUT BON BONS. 

Make the cocoanut filling as directed 
at No. 1356 for chocolate cocoanut drops 
and dip in various icing as directed in 
No. 1366 for water iced confections. 

1365— MOCA BON BONS, 
2 ozs. best white gum arable. 
2 lbs. icing sugar. 

1 gill hot water, 

^ gill best brandy. 

2 ozs. strong essence of coffee. 
2 whites of eggs. 



Dissolve the gum in the hot water, 
then strain it through a piece of cheese 
cloth, to this add the brandy and enough 
of the icing sugar to make a stiff paste. 
Make the icing by working the whites of 
eggs, essence of coffee and sugar. Put 
the white brandy cream in a force bag 
having a ^ of an inch nozzle, with the 
right hand force out the contents of the 
bag and cut in pieces the size of a lima 
bean on a sheet of greased paper; when 
the sheet is full place on a piece of tin 
and dry about ten minutes in a slack 
oven. Finish by dipping these in the 
coffee icing one at a time, using a fork 
to dip and take out, then dry. 

1366— WATER ICED CONFECTIONS. 

These are confections such as cocoanut 
or other bon bons, fruit jellies, etc., 
dipped in icing variously colored and 
made as follows: 

I lb. of extra fine pulverized sugar. 

4 teaspoonfuls of water. 

Coloring. 

Put the sugar in a quart bowl, add the 
water and stir vigorously a few minutes, 
then color if desired. Shake the bowl 
and if the contents become smooth on 
top it is just right to use, otherwise it 
must be thinned with a little additional 
water; this is especially nice for icing 
jellies prepared as directed elsewhere. 

1367— APRICOT JELLIES. 

I lb. of canned apricot pulp. 

I lb. of sugar. 

Put the apricot pulp through a sieve 
in a granite or copper pan, add the sugar 
and cook over a very slow fire, stirring 
continuously; it must not come to a boil; 
continue cooking until it drops short 
from the spoon, remove from the fire 
and drop it in dry starch impressions. 
Dust starch over them and let remain in 
a dry room until a fine crust forms on 
the jellies, then they may be iced, cov- 
ered with chocolate or crystalized. 



1368— APRICOT COMFITS. 

Take apricot jellies made as directed 
in No. 1367 and lay them one at a time 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



227 



in a bowl of water icing made as directed 
in No. 1366; ice only one side of the 
jelly, take it out by running a two 
pronged fork under it and drop it on a 
paper dry side down, shake the jelly to 
make the icing run smooth; continue till 
all the jellies are iced on one side, then 
let them remain in this way about five 
and a half hours or until the icing on 
top has become hard enough to hold the 
weight of the jellies. Then stir the icing 
and if necessary add a little sugar to 
make it stiflf enough, lay the side of the 
jellies which has not been iced on top 
of the icing in the bowl, lift out with the 
fork, turn down the side with the hard 
icing, let them lay until hard and ready 
to use. 

1369— APRICOT CHOCOLATE. 

Make the apricot jellies as directed in 
No. 1367 and cover them with chocolate 
as directed for chocolate cream drops. 



1370— HONEY NOUGAT. 

4 tablespoonfuls of strained honey. 

2 ozs. of blanched almonds. 

I lb. of pulverized sugar. 

Make the honey very hot without 
boiling, stir in the sugar a little at a 
time until it becomes firm, then turn it 
on the table and knead in more sugar 
and also the almonds which must neces- 
sariljr be dry; when the mixture is firm 
enough to keep its form in a square bar 
like brick, split lengthwise, sugar the 
outside, roll it up in wax paper and keep 
a day before slicing it. It might be cut 
smaller and wrapped up in wax paper. 



^ 



I37J-TUTTI FRUTTI CANDY. 

Make the honey nougat preparation and 
add to it a teaspoonful of vanilla, three 
figs cut very small and an equal amount 
of seeded raisins carefully picked and 
cut; work up into a bar with all the finely 
pulverized sugar necessary to make it 
firm, cut it in slices and wrap it in wax 
paper. 



1372— WALNUT CREAMS. 

1 lb. of sugar. 

2 heaping teaspoonfuls of powdered 
gum arabic. 

5 tablespoonftils of water. 

I large tablespoonful of vanilla ex- 
tract. 

Put a small portion of the sugar in the 
water to make a syrup, add the gum to 
it, and stir over the fire until the gum is 
all dissolved, take it off and work in the 
sugar gradually with a wooden spoon, 
add the vanilla, stir and beat so as to 
make the candy fine and white, then 
turn on the table and roll it out in one 
long roll. Cut off slices and stick a half 
walnut kernel in each piece, pinch it up 
and hold it and shape it in the hollow of 
the left hand; lay the finished creams on 
a tray. 

1373— DATE CREAMS. 

Made as directed for walnut creams, 
dates cut in pieces being used instead of 
walnut kernels. 

J374-FIG CREAMS. 

Cut the figs in pieces and proceed as 
directed for walnut creams. 

I375-FRENCH CREAMS. . 
Flavor and color cream candy made as 
directed for walnut creams with the nec- 
essary extracts and colorings to match 
French canned fruit, which are cut in 
suitable pieces and used as directed for 
walnut creams. 

1376— CREAM CANDY. 
2% lbs. of sugar. 
I pint of water. 

6 ozs. of butter. 

% teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 

Dissolve the sugar in the water, put 
it over the fire, when it reaches the boil- 
ing point add the cream of tartar; boil 
ten minutes then throw in the butter. 
It will now foam and occupy twice the 
original space, so it should be put in a 
vessel large enough so that the boiling 
syrup can not run over. Put in the 



228 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



thermometer, and when it indicates 280 
degrees pour the syrup quickly on a 
marble slab. As soon as the edges begin 
to cool turn them up toward the middle 
and continue the process until the whole 
mass is in a bunch. As soon as it is cool 
enough to handle put it on the hook and 
pull it back and forth until it is of a 
snowy whiteness. Flavor it while it is 
being pulled with extract of vanilla or 
oil of lemon. Take it from the hook and 
put it on the table again and pull it out 
in bars. 

1377— STRAWBERRY CREAM 
CANDY. 
Proceed as directed for cream candy, 
No. 1376. When the batch is boiling 
put in enough red color to give a shade 
darker than a ripe strawberry, as pulling 
makes it lighter. Flavor while on the 
hook with extract of strawberry. 



1378— CHOCOLATE CREAM CANDY. 

Proceed as directed in No. 1376 until 
the time when the syrup is poured on 
the slab. Mix two ounces of grated 
chocolate and knead it as you would 
dough so as to thoroughly incorporate 
the chocolate. When this candy is being 
pulled it will become much lighter. 

1379— VANILLA CARAMELS. 

2^ lbs. of sugar. 

X lb. of butter. 

I Yi pints of milk. 

X teaspoon ful of cream of tartar. 

Put the milk and sugar in a bright 
kettle, put it on the fire and whei* it 
con.mences to boil add the cream of 
tartar; when it has boiled ten minutes 
add the butter. Try the syrup every 
minute with the finger. Hold a dipper 
of cold water in the left hand, wet your 
right forefinger and dip it into the syrup, 
catching a little on the finger and put it 
into the dipper of cold water. At this 
stage the sugar will probably run off. 
Repeat every minute until, as you take 
your finger from the water the syrup 
will congeal and slip from your finger in 
a lump, that when pressed will snap 



like glass. Stir the mixture constantly 
while boiling, but the greatest caution 
must be observed not to stir the mixture 
after it has been removed from the fire. 
Just before the mixture is to be taken off 
the fire, stir in very gently one table- 
spoonful of vanilla. When nearly cool 
crease or cut it in pieces about ^ of an 
inch square. 

S 

I38a-MAPLE SUGAR CARAMELS. 
Proceed as directed for vanilla caramel, 
but in place of granulated sugar use pure 
maple sugar and omit the vanilla. 

J38 1— PEANUT BAR. 

2 lbs. of shelled peanut kernels. 

I lb. of sugar. 

%. teaspoon of cream of tartar. 

Shake the kernels in a sieve to remove 
all dust and dirt, pick out all the bad 
ones and roast them a light brown. Put 
the dry sugar and cream of tartar in a 
kettle over the fire, stir up with a thin, 
narrow wooden paddle from the bottom 
until the sugar is all melted, then throw 
in the nuts slowly. When all in, turn 
the whole on the slab, pat down until 
the batch is only an inch thick and cut 
in bars while still warm. 



J382— WALNUT BAR. 

I lb. of sugar. 

A pinch of cream of tartar. 

Walnuts. 

Put the sugar and cream of tartar dry 
in a kettle and stir until the sugar is all 
melted, then drop in the walnuts slowly 
until the sj^rup will not cover any more. 
Stir constantly until ready to pour on 
the marble slab, flatten it out to about 
% of an inch thick and cut in narrow 
bars when nearly cold. 

1383— ALMOND BAR. 

Proceed as directed in the above 
recipe. The almonds may be blanched 
if so desired, but the bar has a better 
flavor when the almonds are not 
blanched. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



229 



1384— BRAZIL BAR. 
Made as directed in No. 1382 for wal- 
nut bar, Brazil nuts being used in place 
of walnuts or a'monds. 

1385--COCOANUT BAR. 

I cocoanut, grated. 

I lb. sugar. 

Small half-pint of water. 

Put the sugar and water in a kettle 
and boil until the thermometer shows 
260 degrees, put in the cocoanrt and 
boil three minutes, stirring all the thuc. 
Remove from the fire and stir gently 
until stiff, then turn out on the slab, 
flatten down and cut in narrow bars 
when cold. It may be colored a delicate 
pink just as it is removed from the fire, 
with red coloring. 

i336— NEAPOLITAN CREAM BARS. 
Have a pan two and a half inches in 
depth, grease some paper and fit it 
around the sides and bottom of the pan. 
Melt some of the cream No. 1348, color 
it a delicate pink and flavor with straw- 
berry or raspberry, pour it into the pan 
1^ of an inch thick. Melt more of the 
cream, flavor it with vanilla, pour this 
over the pink cream. Prepare the last 
cream with lemon or orange extract, 
color it yellow and pour it on top of the 
other two creams. When cold turn out 
of the pan and cut in neat squares. 

1387— MNT DROPS. 

I lb. of pulverized sugar. 

A large tablespoonful of powdered 
gum arable. 

5 tablespoonfuls of water. 

Tablespoonful of peppermint. 

Put the water on the fire in a small sauce 
pan or cup with the gum arabic in it and let 
it stand; when the gum is dissolved put 
X of the sugar in it and when it has 
boiled up add ^ of the remaining sugar, 
put it in gradually without stirring; when 
it boils up again take it to the table and 
stir in the remaining sugar and after- 
wards the flavoring; drop portions the 
size of a quarter of a dollar on sheets of 
paper. 



i 1388- WINTERGREEN DROPS. 

Proceed as described for mint drops, 

color a light pink with a few drops of 

red coloring and use wintergreen extract 

I for flavoring. These drops have an ele- 

i gant smooth surface, and are slightly 

granulated inside. 

Cloves, cinnamon and other drops can 
be made in the same manner. 

1389— COUGH DROPS. 

5 lbs. of brown sugar. 

I quart of water. 

% ■.easpoonful cream of tartar. 

I teaspoonful powdered licorice root. 

I teaspoonful powdered wahoo, bark 
of the root. 

I teaspoonful of elecampane. 

30 drops of laudanum. 

8 drops oil of anise. 

8 drops oil of gaultheria. 

Boil together the water, sugar and 
cream of tartar until the mercury of the 
thermometer shows 305 degrees. Turn 
on the marble immediately, and spread 
all the other ingredients on the hot candy. 
Turn up the edges to the center until 
the mass is cool enough to knead like 
dough and cut in drops with the scissors. 

J390— LEMON DROPS. 

2}i lbs. of sugar. 

I pint of water. 

Cream of tartar. 

5 drops oil of lemon. 

I level teaspoon of powdered tartaric 
acid. 

Put the sugar and water in a kettle 
over the fire, when this boils put in the 
cream of tartar, a little heap the size of 
a lima bean. Put in the thermometer 
and let boil until it reaches 305 degrees. 
Remove the kettle from the fire and 
pour on the marble slab so that the 
syrup will be about a quarter of an inch 
thick. Spread evenly over the hot sur- 
face the oil of lemon and the tartaric 
acid, which must be finely powdered. 
Now turn the edges over the middle and 
repeat the operation, gradually making a 
lump of the whole batch; then knead it 
as you would dough so as to work in the 
acid and oil of lemon. It is ready to be 



230 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



drawn out and cut in drops with the 
scissors, or can be rolled in sticks. 

139 1 -CANDY BASKETS. 

Almond, cocoanut, walnut or other 
candies made as directed in No. 1382 
may be pressed while cooling in basket 
shapes of tin or crockery ware, and bands 
of the same twisted to form the 
handles and borders; or again may be 
formed in fancy gem pans, and when 
cold used to fill with strawberries or any 
article of ornamental character. The 
proportion of nuts may be increased to 
2 pounds of nuts to every pound of sugar. 

J392-CANDY TOYS. 

2 lbs. of granulated sugar. 

Short pint of water. 

A heaping teasp-ionful of powdered 
gum arabic. 

A level teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 

Lemon, vanilla, peppermint or other 
flavoring extract. 

Warm the water and dissolve the gum 
arabic in it, add to this the sugar and 
cream of tartar and set it on to boil; do 
not stir after it is once well mixed; boil 
about 15 minutes, then try it by dropping 
a little in cold water, when the lumps 
retain their shape or can be worked be- 
tween the fingers like gum paste, it is 
then ready to pour into the moulds 
which are made of plaster of paris care- 
fully oiled. Dolls, animals and various 
other articles are suitable for this pur- 
pose. This, if cast without being stirred, 
will produce a clear candy, but if you 
wish it white and opaque, stir the candy 
a little in the kettle a dozen times or so 
before pouring it out. The flavoring is 
added just before it is ready to pour into 
the moulds. See description of plaster 
paris mould. 

1393— ROSE CREAM CANDY. 
The same ingredients and proportions 
as the preceding recipe, boil to the same 
degree, then take the kettle from the 
fire, let it stand five minutes, add color- 
ing enough to make it a delicate pink 
and a few drops of rose extract; have a 
buttered dish ready, stir the candy rap- 



idly until it begins to lose its bright 
appearance and change to & dull color, 
then pour it immediately into the dish. 
When cold break in pieces. 



J394— LEMON CREAM CANDY. 

Proceed as directed for rose cream 
candy; use no coloring and flavor with 
oil of lernon. When finished it will be 
as white as cake icing. 

1395— STICK CANDY. 

2j^ lbs. sugar. 

Yz pint water. 

Cream of tartar, size of a bean. 

Put the sugar and water in a kettle 
over the fire and when it comes to a boil 
put in the cream of tartar. Boil to 306 
degrees, then turn on the marble, and as 
soon as the edges become cool turn them 
on the center and repeat until the whole 
batch can be turned over. 

If the sticks are wanted striped, cut off 
a piece of the candy as large as an egg, 
color it a brilliant red. Work the color- 
ing thorougly with the hands, then put 
it near the fire where it will keep soft 
till needed. 

When the candy on the marble slab is 
cool enough to handle, pull it until it is 
as white as snow. Now put it on the 
slab and roll it around to make an even 
thick short roll. Take the piece of col- 
ored candy and cut it in six equal strips, 
roll these to the length of the batch and 
place them at equal distance around it. 
Work one end of the lump down to a 
point and pull it into sticks of the desired 
thickness, give a twist to the sticks as 
you pull them to size, to turn the j^ doz. 
strips into a spiral around the stick. 

Flavor with a few drops of oil of pep- 
permint while pulling the candy. 

A variety of stick candy can be made 
by this same process, using other flavors, 
less stripes, etc. 

1396— TRANSPARENT CANDY 
STICK. 

Can be made as directed in the pre- 
ceding recipe, but do not pull the candy. 
Stripe with red or white. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



231 



The white stripes are made with a small 
piece of the candy pulled to snowy white. 



J397— CANDffiD NUTS. 

20 ozs. of sugar. 

Yz pint of water. 

A pinch of cream of tartar. 

Brazil nuts, Almonds, English wal- 
nuts, or any other preferred. 

Boil the su^ar, water and cream of tar- 
tar to 300 degrees by the thermometer, 
remove from the fire, drop in the shelled 
nuts half a dozen at a time. Lift them 
out with a fork and place them on tins 
till cold. 

1398-ROCK CANDY. 

5 lbs. of sugar. 

3 pints of water. 

Boil, and when the thermometer shows 
221 degrees it is almost done. Take an 
ordinary skimmer, put it in the syrup, 
then blow through the holes. If the 
syrup leaves the skimmer in light parti- 
cles it is done. Then pour it in a kettle 
prepared in the following manner: Take 
a kettle, wider at the top than bottom, 
perforate the sides of the kettle with tiny 
holes three inches apart, then run a 
thread through each hole stretching 
across the kettle so that the crystals may 
form on the thread. Put a thin coat of 
beeswax and rosin mixed in equal quan- 
tities on the outside to prevent the syrup 
from running out of the holes. Let the 
syrup stand in this kettle 12 hours in a 
warm room; if by that time the crystals 
are heavy, pour off the syrup and let 
them dry. 

1399— HOREHOUND CANDY. 

2^ lbs. of brown sugar. 

2 ozs dried horehound herb. 

I quart of water. 

Put the herbs in a sauce pan, throw 
over these the water made boiling hot 
and boil gently till reduced to one pint, 
strain and add the brown sugar. Boil 
until the thermometer shows 305. When 
done pour upon the greased marble or 
platter, and mark it oflf in narrow sticks 
as quick as it will retain the impression. 



1400— ALMOND CANDY. 

1 lb. of blanched and split almonds. 

2 lbs. of granulated sugar. 
Short pint of water. 

A teaspoonful each of gum arabic and 
cream of tartar. 

Lemon or rose extract. 

Dissolve the gum in the water made 
hot for the purpose, add the sugar and 
cream of tartar, boil without stirring 
about fifteen minutes, or when a drop 
in cold water sets nearly hard so it can 
Vje pressed between the fingers; take the 
kettle off the fire, drop the flavoring over 
the surface; give the candy two or three 
turns so as to mix in the flavoring, pour 
thin in buttered pans; push the split al- 
monds in the warm candy and just be- 
fore it gets cold mark it by rolling over 
it the edge of a thin plate. 

I40J— WHITE SUGAR CANDY, TO 
PULL. 

I lb. of white granulated sugar. 

Short half, pint of water. 

Yz teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 

A tablespoonful of melted butter. 

Peppermint, lemon or other flavoring. 

Boil all together, except the flavoring, 
about a quarter of an hour, and try it by 
dropping a little in cold water; it must 
set hard and brittle when done, and must 
not be stirred; pour on a buttered dish 
and when cool enough to handle flavor 
and pull it until it is quite white. 

J402— PEANUT CANDY. 

I lb. of sugar. 

Yz lb. of peanuts. 

Make the peanuts hot in the oven; set 
the sugar on the range to melt with just 
a tablespoonful of water in the bottom of 
the kettle before the sugar is put in ; stir 
it a little and when it is all melted and 
the color of syrup mix in the peanuts 
and pour the candy on buttered pans; 
when nearly cold cut in square sticks or 
blocks. 

1403- ALMOND CANDY, ANOTHER 
WAY. 

Make as described for peanut candy, 
almonds being used instead of peanuts. 



232 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



1404— EVERTON TAFFY. 

Yz lb. of brown sugar. 

Yz lb. of fresh butter. 

Yz teacupful of vinegar. 

Yt. teacupful of water. 

Yz pint of almonds. 

Blanch and split the almonds and 
spread them on two large dishes slightl}- 
buttered; boil the other ingredients to- 
gether for about twenty minutes; do not 
stir them, but they may be shaken a lit- 
tle at first to help mix them; when a drop 
of candy will set hard and brittle in cold 
water it is time to take it from the fire, 
and pour over all of the almonds, just 
deep enough to cover them. 

H05— MOLASSES CANDY. 

A large coffee cupful of molasses. 

% lb. of sugar. 

A basting spoonful of vitiegar( optional) . 

Yz cup of water. 

A teaspoonful of butter. 

Put all the ingredients in a kettle and 
boil for fifteen to twenty minutes; try, 
and if it sets hard and brittle, pour on 
buttered plates; when cool enough to 
handle, pull. 

i406— MOLASSES CANDY, NO. 2. 

Made as described for molasses candy 
No. I, but instead of pulling add a half 
teaspoonful of soda just before it is ready 
to be poured out of the kettle, stir it in 
and pour on the dishes; flavoring may be 
used if desired. 

1407— GUM DROPS. 

lYz lbs. of white gum arabic. 

\Y^ pints of water. 

I lb. of pulverized sugar. 

Yz teacup orange flower water, or any 
other suitable flavoring. 

Pour the water over the gum placed in 
a bright kettle, dissolve it over a slow 
fire, stirring constantly from the bottom 
until all the gum is melted, then strain 
through a fine sieve; add the sugar and 
the orange flower water. Put the mix- 
ture over a slow fire until it boils, remove 
and let stand a few minutes, take off 



the scum and pour into starch moulds. 
Let the trays remain a day in a room 
where the temperature is about 70 de- 
grees Fahr., then take them out, brush 
clean and crystallize (See No. 1363). 

H08-POP CORN BALLS. 

Pop the corn and remove all the ker- 
nels that are not nicely opened. Put 
about a peck of the corn in a pan. Then 
boil half a pound of sugar and a oup of 
v.-ater until a drop of the syrup settles 
quite firm when dropped in a cup of 
cold water; remove from the fire and 
mix with 4 tablespoon fuls of gum arabic 
solution made by pouring boiling water 
over gum arabic twelve hours before 
using. Pour this mixture over the corn 
and mix thoroughly; press the corn in 
balls with the hands, put one end of a 
rubber string or a piece of white thread 
in the ball so that they may be suspended 
the Christmas tree. The balls must be 
made rapidly or the whole mass is liable 
to set. 

J409— ROYAL ICING. 

(Raw Icing.) 
Put the whites of three fresh eggs into 
a bowl, add sufficient icing sugar to make 
a stiff batter, work it vigorously with a 
small wooden paddle, gradually adding 
one dessert spoonful of lemon juice, 
which will prevent the icing from scal- 
ing off when the cake is cut. This is 
the fundamental formula fcr all raw 
icings, which are made by adding to the 
icing described any flavor or color de- 
sired. For chocolate icing add three 
ounces of melted chocolate for every 
pound of sugar and a teaspoonful of 
extract of vanilla. The chocolate is 
poured in when the icing is well beaten. 

HIO-ALMOND ICING. 

12 ozs. icing sugar. 

8 ozs. blanched almonds. 

3 whites of eggs. 

Yz lemon. 

Make a smooth icing of the sugar, eggs 
and the juice of half a lemon; pound the 
almonds to a paste and work it gradually 
into the icintj. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



233 



HU— COCOANUT ICING. 

Proceed as directed for almond icing, 
using cocoanut in place of almonds. 

t4 12— FRENCH LIQUEURS ICING. 

Mix curacoa, marasquin, cretiie de 
violet, or any other liqueurs with enough 
icing sugar to make it of the consister cy 
of thick cream. 

J4 13— PEARL GLAZE, FOR SPONGE 
CAKE AND ANGEL FOOD. 

1 cup of pulverized sugar (icing sugar). 

2 whites of eggs. 

A teaspoonful of flavoring extract. 

Put the ingredients all together in a 
bowl and beat a few minutes; spread on 
the cake; it will dry in a very short time. 
A very good ice if the cake is to be orna- 
mented; can also be colored as desired. 



J4I4— BOILED YELLOW GLAZE. 

}4 lb. of granulated sugar. 

2 basting spoonfuls of water. 

3 yolks of eggs. 
Flavoring extract. 

Boil the sugar and water for about five 
minutes or more, until a drop of the 
syrup sets hard enough in cold water so 
it can hardly be flattened beween the 
fingers; beat the yolks in a bowl, pour 
the boiling syrup over this, stirring 
briskly all the lime; put it back on the 
fire and cook a minute longer; finish by 
beating the 3'olks rapidly while it is cool- 
ing; add the flavoring just as it becomes 
too thick to beat and spread on the cakes 
while still warm. 



14 15— BOILED WHITE GLAZE. 

}4 \h. oi granulated sugar. 

3 basting spoonfuls of water. 

2 whites of eggs. 

Flavoring extract. 

Boil the syrup until a drop in cold wa- 
ter settles brittle; beat the whites a little, 
pour the hot syrup over these, beating 
all the while; set on the fire again for a 
minute stirring constantly, as it burns 
very easily; set the sauce pan in ice wa- 
ter, beat unti' it thickens and whitens, 
flavor when you are just ready to pour it 
over the cake. 

In making any of these boiled glazes 
the syrup should not be stirred as it tends 
to granulate the sugar. 



^ 



t4I6-BOILED ROSE GLAZE. 

Make as directed for white glaze; color 
a bright pink just as it thickens and it is 
ready to add the flavoring. 



^ 



I4I7-BOILED CHOCOLATE GLAZE. 

}4 lb. of granulated sugar. 

3 basting spoonfuls of water. 

A basting spoonful of Bakers' choco- 
late. 

2 whole eggs. 

I teaspoonful of flavoring extract. 

Boil the sugar and water five minutes, 
then add the grated chocolate; when a 
drop in cold water will set hard, almost 
brittle, stir in the eggs rapidly, cook five 
minutes more with constant stirring, 
beat vigorously while it is cooling then 
add the flavoring and pour it over the 
sheets of cakes while it is still warm. 



^ ^ ^ Jr/xlv 1 ¥♦ «^ <^ «4lw 



e^ 



ORNAMENTAL 



COOKERY 



e^ 



Ornamental Cookery* 



The author had for object in writ 
ing this part of his book the desire to 
impart a knowledge of the art of orna- 
mentation to those who may want to ac- 
quire suficient ability to produce easilj^ and 
without investing in costly outfits, deco- 
rated cakes, galantines and other dishes, 
the want of which may arise on certain 
occasions. An exhaustive definition of 
the different methods employed by the 
masters of this art would fill a large 
volume. But if the methods contained 
in this book are carefully followed 
sufiicient skill can be developed to pro- 
duce work of the most gratifying char- 
acter. 

14 18— PIPING. 

There are two ways of piping. The 
first is with a paper cone and the second 
with a metallic syringe or an India rub- 
ber bag fitted with metallic tubes. (See 
illustrations). Very pretty designs can 
be executed with the paper cones — of 
course the bag with metallic tubes or the 
syringes will produce a greater variety 
of designs and work of a more accurate 
nature, but after you have practiced 
some time with the paper cones and 
have had pleasant results you will not 
hesitate to purchase a set of tools. 

To make a paper cone take a stiff 
sheet of paper (not too stiff) about five 
inches by six inches, fold it corner ways 
in the shape of a cone, put in the icing 
prepared as directed in No. 1421, close 
the top and cut the point neatly with a 
pair of small sharp scissors. Now hold 
the cone in the right hand with the 
thumb on the top of it; the pressure of 
the thumb will regulate and eject the 
contents of the cone with more or less 
force, according to the requirements of 
the pattern. When the cone is filled the 
top end where it was filled is turned 



down to prevent the premature escape of 
the icing, the point is then cut with a 
fine pair of scissors sufficiently to make 
a thread or cord of required size 
when pressed out. If the hole is not cut 
perfectly straight it will be impossible to 
form a straight or uniform design. 

HI9— BAG AND TUBES OR ME- 
TALLIC SYRINGE. 

As I have said before, the bag is made 
of India rubber in about the same shape 
as the paper cones, provided with a me- 
tallic ferrule and screw, and a certain 
number of pipes of different shapes and 
sizes are furnished with it. The syringe, 
as shown in the following illustration, is 
possessed of a movable nozzle and the 
pipes are fitted as required. The tubes 
most in use are the round or cord, the 
leaf, three stars, crimper or ruffler. Each 
of these may be had of different dimen- 
sions. The round, for example, may be 
had from the size of an ordinary darning 
needle to that of a quarter of an inch in 
diameter. There are a large variety of 
these pipes which can be purchased as 
fancy or purpose may require. Practice 
will enable the operator to pick the size 
and shape that his fancy may select. 
Pipes are in the hand of an operator what 
the pencil is to the artist. With the aid 
of genius it is capable of producing work 
of a wonderful nature. I would advise 
beginners to commence first by making 
the simplest models, straight lines, dots, 
scallops, and festoons, then when these 
have been mastered he may try scrolls 
and some of the more elaborate patterns. 
One of the difficulties in completing a 
line, festoon or other design is to cease 
pressing at the proper moment, for if 
more icing is forced than is necessary 
through the tube the design will not be 
regular and if sufficient force is not ap- 



238 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



plied an addition will probably have to 
be made which might spoil the design. 



1420— PIPING ON NET. 
Trace a design on cardboard, lay the 
net upon this and secure snug with pins 
around the edfes. Prepare the icing and 
the syringe or bag fitted with the neces- 
sar)' tube; pipe the design over the trac- 
ing that can be seen through the meshes 
of the net. When the icing is perfectly 
dry, the net is carefully removed and the 
design fastened with melted candy or a 
little icing on the object to be orna- 
mented. When both sides are to be ex- 
posed to view, after the pattern is dried 
it should be revei'sed and piped upon the 
opposite side. 



I42J— ICING FOR ORNAMENTA- 
TION. 

Put two whites of eggs in a bowl and 
put in as much icing sugar as they will 
absorb to produce a soft paste, add one- 
half a teaspoonful of prepared gum trag- 
acanth and three drops of acetic acid and 
then work the icing with a spoon; when 
it is withdrawn if the point of icing left 
behind stands out erect the icing is per- 
fect. 

The sugar employed in the making of 
this icing must be sifted through a fine 
sieve, and when the icing is made it must 
be kept covered with a damp cloth to 
prevent its drying, for it takes but a very 
minute lump of icing to stop the flow in 
the small pipes, which would then have 
to be removed and cleaned, thus causing 
great inconvenience. 

t422— HOW TO MAKE FLOWERS 
IN ICING. 

P'lowers are made on the pointed end 
of an egg placed in a solid position, or 
anj' object of a similar nature. When 
dried they are easily removed and placed 
where they are to remain. To accomplish 
this, first grease an egg shell, then make 
a large or small dot according to the size 
of the flower to be made on the exposed 



end of the egg, then pipe the petals all 
around and against the dot; make the 
stalks of fine wire covered with green pa- 
per, and the pistils with bits of waxed 
thread, the ends of which must be dipped 
in yellow granite sugar; the green leaves 
are piped against the stalks after the 
flowers are mounted. When making 
roses on a greased egg shell have the ic- 
ing extremely stiff, make a small ring of 
the color wanted first, then for every leaf 
that is traced towards you make the next 
directly opposite. The colors of the 
icings are such as to imitate the colors of 
the flowers to be reproduced, but in the 
estimation of the author the finest deco- 
rated cakes are made entirely white. • 



^ 



I423-LETTERING. 
Letters can be piped on cakes or made 
as directed for piping on net. Another 
easy way is to place a piece of glass over 
the pattern, then lay with a pipe directly 
over, let dry, and after they have been 
carefully removed place them where 
wanted; there is much scope for fancy 
lettering. A book containing designs of 
monograms, letters, numerals, etc., can 
be easily had, but a good serviceable 
design will be found in the following 
pages which can be adapted in almost 
every instance. Again, letters can be 
piped with a fine round tube in a similar 
manner to that of an artist drawing with 
a pen or pencil. 

1424— ORNAMENTS EASILY 
BOUGHT. 

An almost endless variety of orna- 
ments made of gum paste, such as 
flowers, horseshoes, leaves, doves, etc., 
can be easily bought to suit the demand 
of the subject, and the medallions, bor- 
ders and lettering can be made with the 
pipes, and thus thoroughly artistic work 
can be accomplished by mere amateurs, 
but a cake well iced and decorated with 
a piped design and sugar flowers (the 
making of which is described in this 
book) and with a superstructure of white 
icing, will suit the most fastidious. 



Bag and Tubes for Piping Purposes. 









IT 



^c 



>5 



\o'- 



!3^- 





PLAIN LETTERING FOR CAKES. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



239 



J425— HOW TO DECORATE CAKES, 

When cakes are to be decorated it 
should be done with a view to the occa- 
sion for which they are intended. The 
opportunities offered are often varied 
and will afford many suggestions to those 
having an artistic nature. 

The engraving on the following page 
shows how piping is done, also the design 
of the cake decorated in white icing 
which can be made by following the di- 
rections given in this part of the book. 
The cake itself is a fruit cake made as di- 
rected at No. 1 161 doubly iced, the first 
coat being given rather thin and the 
second a little thicker, both of Royal 
icing as directed at No. 1409. The piping 
and superstructure is of pure white icing; 
around the edges may be placed a border 
of white roses and leaves and the basket 
on top filled with the lightest of confec- 
tions. The decorations of the cake 
might be finished with flowers, smilax, 
or delicate green ferns. If the cake is 
made for a bride it will then be equal, or 
I should think superior, to those made 
with gum paste ornaments, etc. 

Now for the upper structure; this is 
made as follows: Trace a scroll on a 
piece of cardboard as shown in the fol- 
lowing illustration, place a piece of gauze 
or net over this and follow with a star 
piping tube the tracing of the design 
that can be seen through the meshes of 
the net. When this is dried reverse the 
design which has been piped and repeat 
the design where the net has been re- 
moved, make four of these scrolls and 
when they are all dry and hard they are 
ready to be set as a support for the bas- 
ket or tray which is to surmount this 
structure. Now these must be fastened 
together so that they stand perpendicular 
and square. A good way to do this is to 
procure a small box and break off one 
side with one end attached, lay two of 
the scrolls on the wood one-fourth of an 
inch apart; lay icing on the edges and 
place a third on edge on top of them, all 
three touching the end piece of the board 
which is upright and acts as a square. Set 
it in a warm place and when dry set it 
upright; il will then stand without sup- 
port. Place the other scroll, which will 
stand with a touch of icing; when dry 



place upon the cake and proceed to make 
the basket or brackets which is to sur- 
mount the four scrolls. 



H26— TO MAKE THE Bi^SKETS. 

Use a shallow glass dish, cover it with 
tin foil or wax it over with equal quanti- 
ties of white wax and mutton tallow, 
then cover with piping. Begin by plac- 
ing a design on the outer edge, then 
cover the rest of the mold with open lace- 
like piping sufficiently joined to hold the 
icing together; when dry warm the inside 
of the dish just enough to melt the wax 
and turn it over when the basket will 
come off easily. If the mold or other 
object which serves as a support for pip- 
ing is covered with tin foil it need not be 
warmed but just turned right side up, 
the mold removed carefully and the tin 
foil picked away, as it does not adhere to 
it. Both ways are good, but I prefer the 
work on tin foil. 

The handle of the basket is made on a 
piece of tin bent to the required shape, 
in a similar manner as described for the 
basket proper, but it will be a good deal 
stronger if made in two pieces to be 
joined in the middle with some icing and 
a small white flower made of icing 
placed on the joint. 

J427- RAISED BORDER ORNA- 
MENT. 
This can be made on a tin hoop made 
to fit the cake, waxed and the pattern 
piped upon it in panels divided at con- 
venient distances; when these are dry, 
warm the tin so as to melt the wax and 
set the border around the edges of the 
cake. These might be made on net as 
described at No. 1420 for piping on net. 
The pattern drawn on cardboard can be 
made more accurately than when piped 
on the tin hoop. 

1428— ANOTHED WAY TO MAKE 
RAISED BORDER. 

Place the cake to be ornamented up- 
side down on a round gallon syrup can or 
other object of this description, then 
with the piping syringe or bag and tube, 



240 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



hang a loop all around the edge; when 
this is dry put on another of larger size 
and continue in this manner until you 
have four tiers or rows one over the 
other. Let it get perfectly dry then turn 
the cake in its right position and the bor- 
der will be of the finest that it is possible 
to make. 

J429-AN EASY AND HANDSOME 
DESIGN. 

The following design is light, very ef- 
fective and easy of execution. Pipe solid 
dots, one inch apart round the edge of 
the top of the cake; pipe a row of similar 
dots one inch below, each dot to be be- 
tween the two upper dots, proceed thus 
to the bottom of the cake; let the dots 
get quite dry before proceeding further. 
Now drop a loop line of icing from one 
dot to the other next to it, letting the 
middle of the loop line touch and fasten 
to the dot below; proceed thus until you 
reach the bottom, the result being that 
the side of the cake is covered with a net 
of loops standing about one-eighth of an 
inch from the side. Do the top part of 
the cake on the same principle, let it 
thoroughly dry, then repeat the process 
six or eight times until it has the effect 
of a faiiy like net work of sugar, finish- 
ing up with dots and studding each dot 
with a sugar-coated sugar pill. It is ab- 
solutely necessary that each set of drops 
gets quite dry before the loops are piped 
on them, and the loops must be quite dry 
before the next set of dots is piped on. 



J430— FORM OF CAKES. 

Decorated cakes are usually made in 
a circle, or round shape, but such need 
not necessarily be the case, and a pleas- 
ing variety might be produced by baking 
them in other styles, square, rectangular 
or even triangular, the only requisite be- 
ing the necessary baking apparatus, and 
for decorating alter the design to suit 
the shape of each cake, an operation 
easily performed. 

I43I— COLORS OF CAKES. 

White and delicate pink are the most 
acceptable colors for cake decorations. 



Where other colors are employed care 
must be taken that they are used with 
good artistic effect. Chocolate decorated 
with white icing is very acceptable for 
small cakes. 

H32— PAPER DECORATIONS. 

Cakes may be quickly and prettily or- 
namented by cutting from unruled writ- 
ing paper, flowers and leaves, dip them 
in white of egg — not frothed, then 
sprinkle then with granulated sugar, al- 
lowing time to dry, and arrange them on 
top of the cake. 

1433— CAKE DECORATED WITH 
ALMONDS AND FRUIT. 

Ice a cake on the top and sides, and 
when nearly dry slick all over the cake 
blanched almonds with the points up- 
wards, around the top, alternate the al- 
monds with candied cherries, then thin 
strips of figs, placed at regular distance 
all around and on top of the cake. 
.^ 

J434— CAKE DECORATED WITH 

WALNUTS AND CANDIED 

ORANGE. 

Ice a cake either white or pink, make 
a border of walnuts all around the top, 
and another around the bottom, cut 
even strips of candied orange peel or 
citron, place a row of these between the 
rows of walnuts, and on the top place a 
mixed design of the walnuts and orange 
peel. 

1435— CAKE DECORATED WITH 
ROCK CANDY. 

Ice a cake either white or pink, then 
sprinkle with crushed rock candy, white 
and pink equally mixed. 

1436 — CAKE MOUNTED WITH 
CRYSTALLIZED GRAPES. 

Crystallize a perfect bunch of grapes 
(Malaga preferred) by dipping in whipped 
whites of eggs, then dust with as much 
sugar as will stick to the grapes; let dry, 
and place on top of a cake nicely iced 
with a simple design piped all around 
the edges. 



Cake Decoration in Royal Icing. 



Sc^ 




See preceditig page for complete details. 



Scroll Pattern for Mounted Cake. 




Ornamentation for Cake Top. 




Designs for Cake Tops. 





Designs for Cake Tops. 





Ornamentation for Cake Borders. 




Ornamentation for Cake Border. 






Ornamentation of Cakes. 




Ornamentation of Cakes. 




& W 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



241 



1437— MOULDED ORNAMENTS 
AND TOYS. 

Fruit, small toys and various other ar- 
ticles can be easily produced by making 
plaster of paris moulds as follows: Ta^'e 
plaster of paris of the finest kind (dentist 
plaster) mix it with water to the consis- 
tency of thick cream, pour it in a box 
deep enough to contain the object for 
which you intend to make a mould. 
Apples, pears, plums, small dolls, carved 
or stamped articles, etc., must be first 
immersed in oil, then press the edge into 
the soft plaster of pans mixture; in a 
short time the plaster will harden suffici- 
ently to withdraw the article, if a carved 
or simply a flat object, but for a whole 
apple, bunch of grapes, tomato or any- 
thing similar, let the plaster harden suf- 
ficiently to saw the whole block in two, 
remove the fruit and bake the mould at a 
gentle heat. A small hole is then made 
when the two halves are tied together so 
that the candy can be poured in when 
the moulded article is desired. When 
the moulds are ready they should be oiled 
preparatory to receiving the candy, which 
is made as follows: 

I lb. of granulated sugar. 

A small cup of hot water. 

A level teaspoonful of powdered gum 
arable. 

One-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tar- 
tar. 

Lemon or other flavoring. 

Dissolve the gum arabic in the hot wa- 
ter, add the sugar and cream of tartar and 
when thoroughly mixed set on the fire to 
boil; it must not be stirred; after it has 
boiled, try by dropping a little in cold 
water; when it retains its shape pour it 
into the moulds. This will produce 
clear objects, but if these are to be col- 
ored give the candies 15 to 20 turns in 
the kettle after the color is added just 
before turning it out. If wanted white 
and opaque give a few turns as for the 
colored candy. Be sure the candy has 
boiled enough or it will not retain its 
shape for any length of time. If too 
much cream of tartar is added the candy 
will quickly melt to syrup again. 

When the articles are taken out of the 
moulds, they can be painted, or decorated 
with piping. 



1438— COLONADE OF ALMOND. 

Select almonds of equal size, blanch 
them and cut or split in halves, dry them 
a day in a warm closet, spread in a thin 
layer and covered up. Dip in melted candy 
or caramel sugar with a large darning 
needle and fix in regular rows at the 
bottom and on the sides of a mould of 
plain cylindrical form previously oiled 
and made very cold, as it gradually be- 
comes warmed by the sugar. When per- 
fectly cold turn out of the mould and 
fill with Nesselrode Pudding (see No. 
1313) or some of the charlotte prepara- 
tions. If filled with a frozen dessert it 
must be done just before it is handed to 
tlie table. 



^ 



I439-MACEDOINE OF FRUIT. 

A mould of alternati; layers of different 
fruits filled up with jelly, very attractive 
and easily made. Have read}' wine or 
lemon jelly, pour a little in the bottom of 
the mould which may be placed in ice 
water to facilitate the operation; when 
this is set place another layer of fruit of 
a different kind and continue until the 
mould is full. When well set and just 
before going to the table turn out in a 
fancy dish. Almost any kind of fruit 
may be used, grapes, oranges, strawber- 
ries, pitted cherries, etc. 



^ 



J440-GENEVA LAKE. 
Make a four layer jelly cake of a di- 
ameter as broad as the cake stand to be 
used, cut out the inside of all but the 
bottom layer of the cake, making a basin 
surrounded by a wall about an inch and 
a half thick. Spread the inside with 
some kind of jam or marmalade to hide 
the cake, and fill with clear light red 
jelly. Ice over the top and sides of the 
surrounding rim of cake. When the 
jelly is poured in, it must be just at the 
point of beginning to set. Decorate the 
surface of the jelly with white piping, 
using the smallest tube. A border may 
be piped on the rim or it may be decorat- 
ed with small white flowers made as di- 
rected at No. 1422. 



242 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



t44 J— GRAPES IN JELLY. 
Have ready some very clear and bright 
jelly, pour a little in a melon-shaped 
mould or any other kind suitable; when 
set place upon it a fine bunch of grapes 
and fill up with more jell}'. Keep cold 
until ready to serve. 

J442— TURKISH JELLY. 
Pi'epare three or more different colored 
jellies, cut it in small dice and mix 
together, moisten with a little clear jelly 
melted, but nearly cold; fill the mould 
and pour in enough of the melted jelly to 
fill all the interstices. 

1443— NEAPOLITAN JELLY. 
Prepare equal quantities of three dif- 
ferentl}'- colored and flavored jellies; pour 
one in the mould, when set solid pour m 
another and when this is also set solid 
pour in the last; when ready to serve 
turn out on a dish and ornament with 
leaves, etc., stamped out of thi-n sheets 
of bright colored jelly. 

J444— A ROYAL GALANTINE. 

Get the tin.smith to make three galan- 
tine moulds of different sizes and flaring, 
so that piled on each other npside down 
they will form a pyramid. The largest 
may hold four quarts, the next two and 
the smallest one qttart. The long and 
narrow shape, almost like a brick with 
the edges sharp, looks as well as any. 
Prepare three boned and pressed fowls to 
correspond in size with the moulds, leav- 
ing plenty of room for the jelly. Prepare 
five quarts of aspic jelly clarified twice 
and very firm, then a large sheet of yel- 
low custard made of eleven yolks of eggs 
mixed with one-half a small cup of clear 
broth and steam in a four-quart milk pan. 
Set over a dish of boiling water, the pan 
to be slightly buttered before the custard 
is poured in. Also prepare a similar 
sheet of white custard made of the whites 
of the eggs in the same way. These 
custards when cold are to be loosened 
around the edges and turned out on a 
slab to be stamped out in fancy shapes, 
spear heads, leaves, stars, etc. 



To mix with these there may be also 
fancy shapes cut from slices of raw beets^ 
carrots, or some kind of pickles such a& 
large peppers and mangoes; all these 
must be wiped with a dry towel so as to* 
free them from moisture. The pattern? 
should be graded in size to corresponci 
with the different sized moulds. Set 
each mould in a pan of broken ice and 
salt, pour in some melted jelly and orr 
the j'elly, as it coats the sides, construct 
the pattern desired and when well set 
pour over another coat of jfeHy to secure- 
the shape in place, finish even with the 
tops of the moulds with a large pattern' 
of spear heads in very close order, and 
these rrust be cut from some firm materi- 
al so that it maj- add strength to the 
foundation edge. 

"Wlien the decoration is complete and 
well set place the boned fowls inside and 
fill the mould's aroutid them with clear 
jelly so nearly cold as not to endanger 
melting the patterns from the sides. 

Make sure that the boned fowl is cut 
deep enough to rest on the bottom of the 
mould and reach even with the top, as> 
the jelly will not bear any pressure, and 
the blocks of meat must rest upon each 
other when bniU up. 



^ 



1445— POISSON EN ASPIC, 
Fi^ in Aspic Jelly. 

Boil equal quantities of red or pink 
fleshed fish and whitefish, let it get cold 
in the liquor it has boiled in, then take- 
out and wipe with a clean towl dipped in 
hot water; peel off the skin; then with a 
broad knife split the fish down the back, 
remove the bone and lay the fillets on a 
board, to be cut in finger-like strips. Get 
ready a pan of water, ice and salt, to dip 
the mould in so that the jelly will set 
quickly. Flavor some melted aspic jelly 
with Chile vinegar, then coat the moulds, 
with it by turning a little around in them 
till set. 

Place the pieces of fish upright in order 
around the mould, alternate the red and 
white fleshed fish and place a delicate 
line of green celery leaves between the 
pieces of fisb. 

One side of the mould has to be finished 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



243 



at a time, a little jelly poured over and 
allowed to set in the ice water- it is tken 
turned over and the other side lined. 

Now for the inside filling. Mix equal 
quantities of aspic jelly and tliick maj'on- 
aiaise, put the bowl on ice and beat the 
mixture light; have ready some finely 
chopped celery and just before the aspic 
and mayonnaise mixture sets stir in the 
celery. Then fill the fish-lined mould 
and let it stand in a cold place till time 
to serve. Garnish the edge of the disli 
■with shrimps, lemon and watercress or 
parsley. A quart and a half or two 
quart octagon mould is best suited for 
this purpose. 

J446— SHRIMPS IN ASPIC 

Very Ornamental. 

H«ve ready slender conical shaped 
•wine glasses as many as there are guests 
to be served. Pour a spoonful of well- 
flavored aspic jelly in each glass, let it 
run all around to coat the sides, stick the 
shrimps in order upon the jelly and let 
it set in a cold place. When about two 
rows have been put in place put a tea- 
spoonful of green chopped lettr.cc, 1 
previously moistened with salad dros:>iijg, 
in each cavity, aad the shrimp dipped in 
jelly can be placed in the upper rows on 
the point of a fork. Fill up with the 
chopped lettuce and finish filling with 
aspic jelly made cold, almost to the point 
of setting. The glasses have to be placed 
in ice water if the weather is not cold. 
Care must be taken that the glasses set 
level while the jelly is solidifying. When 
ready to serve wipe the outside of the 
glasses with a towel dipped in hot water; 
turn out, place around each cone a border 
of parsley or watercress, and stick a 
flower on top. 

J447-TO MAKE A GIGANTIC EGG. 

If properly made this egg can sur- 
mount a dish of salad and when cut will 
cause a great deal of astonishment. Take 
eleven eggs, separate the whites from the 
yolks; have ready a small bladder 
thoroughly cleaned and washed, pour 
the yolks into this bladder and shape it 
like a large .sphere, close it and plunge 



it in boiling water.; when the yolks are 
done hard take them out of the boiling 
water and peel the bladder off, you will 
then have a large ball of egg yolk. Take 
a larger bladder, put in the whites, then 
the ball of yolks of eggs, which will sus- 
pend itself naturally in the center of the 
whites, close the bladder, plunge it into 
boiling water; when cooked hard remove 
and place the bladder in ice water for a 
few minutes to prevent the discoloring of 
the whites, then peel the hladder and the 
egg is ready to serve as a center orna- 
ment in a dish of salad. 

J448— PYRAMID OF WHITE AND 
BROWN SANDWICHES. 

Make equal numbers of thin brov\>n 
bread sandwiches and white bread sand- 
wiches. Serve them on a napkin placed 
on a silver tray or any other suitable 
dish, in the form of a pyramid, alternat- 
ing the brown and white sandwiches. 

Spread fresh cream cheese or neufcha- 
tel on the slices of brown bread, mayon- 
naise and a crisp leaf of lettuce between 
the slices of white bread, trim all even, 
and cover with a napkin just dampened, 
until read^' to serve. 

1449— RIBBON S.\NDWICHES. 
Cut thin slices of the finest and whitest 
bread of close grain and newly baked 
and remove the crust, spread with pitted 
ham or tongue, roll them up and tie 
them around with narrow satin ribbon, 
making a true lover's knot on each; fold 
napkins fan shape, place these on a 
fancy dish, and pile up the sandwiches. 



H50-SALAD GARNISHINGS. 

CELERY.— The white leaves are at- 
tractive on all salads containing celery. 
A small edging of the leaves may be 
placed all around the salad and one of 
parsley on the outside of the edge of 
celery leaves. 

CAPERS. — May be arranged in com- 
bination with shrimps, quartered lemon, 
etc. 

EGGS.— Hard boiled and cut into thin 
slices or lengthwise. 



244 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



FIvOWERS.— Either cut or wild flow- 
ers can be used as a centerpiece for a 
large dish of salad placed in a narrow 
wine glass. 

JELLY. — Leaves and other patterns 
stamped out of firm aspic 'jelly. 

LETTUCE.— The leaves always form 
an excellent base and edge for most all 
salads. 

LEMON — Quarters or slices sprinkled 
with parsley may be arranged in suitable 
combination with stoned olives, shrimps, 
etc. 

LOBSTEF.— The claws placed on 
ends with a combination of parsley, or 
lettuce and lemon. 

LAMBS' TONGUE.— Pickled and cut 
into thin slices for meat salads. 

OLIVES. — Stoned or stuffed in com- 
bination with watercress, parsley, etc. 

OYSTERS. — Spiced oysters are suit- 
able on fish salads in various combina- 
tions. 

PARSLEY. — Parsley is always accept- 
able, also chopped very fine sprinkled 
over the top of certain salads or slices of 
lemon. 

PICKLED BEETS.— Thin slices or 
cut into stars, leaves, diamonds, or slices 
the size of a lead pencil cut with a scal- 
lop potato knife. 

PICKLES.— Cut in thin strips or in 
shapes stamped out with a cutter. 

RED RADISHES.— Cut in thin strips 
or to imitate blossoms. 

SARDINES.— On salmon and other 
fish salads. 

SHRIMPS.— On fish salads in com- 
binations with parsley, lemon, etc. 

WATERCRESS. -Suitable for edges 
if fresh and crisp. 

Parsley should be chopped very fine; 
inclose it in a clean towel, and wring by 
twisting it until all the juice is expressed; 
it is then a green dust and will divide 



like grain of corn meal, and can be 
spread with great facility. 

145 1— PAPER FRILLS AND 
ROSETTES. 

For Chops, Cutlets, Etc. 

Cut a strip of note paper into strips 
two inches wide and double them length- 
wise to make the width of a paper 
blade. Cut the double edge into fringe 
a quarter inch deep, move the edges of 
the paper one higher than the other and 
the fringe will be bowed out instead of 
lying flat; fasten the edge that way with 
a touch of corn starch paste made very 
stiff. Then roll the fringed pieces of 
paper around a pencil, and fasten the 
end with paste if they are to be used 
over the end of frogs' legs, but if for 
chops and cutlets make them larger, ac- 
cording to size of the article to be served. 
A touch of stiff paste will hold them in 
place. 



J452— INDIVIDUAL PAPER CASES. 

For Charlotte Russe, Etc. 

Have handy some unruled writing 
paper, or still better, some fine book 
paper; fit a band of paper to the outside 
of a very small tumbler. The band of 
paper when cut to fit will form a curve, 
cut as many such pieces as are needed, 
and then, placing three or four together, 
cut both top and' bottom edges into 
fringe a quarter of an inch in depth. 
Have read}' some corn starch paste made 
very stiff, and paste the ends of the 
bands together, forming cup shapes, 
then trim around the edges, press the 
fringe bottom edges on the paste, the 
fringe bent outward. They are then 
ready to be lined with cake or lady 
fingers (see recipes for charlottes). 



Selection of Wines* — Service of the Table* 



J453— WHAT THE AUTHOR CON- 
SIDERS THE BEST WAY TO 
SET A DINNER T^BLE. 

Contrary to the ideas of most caterers 
the use of large or small ornamental 
pieces or an abundance of confectionery, 
cakes, etc., frilled and flounced linen is 
a thing altogether passe. I even dare 
say that it is considered bad form. A 
great reform has taken place in late years 
in the manner of setting a banquet table, 
and the showy set pieces of flowers, heavy 
banks of moss and roses, large basket 
shapes, fixed strings of smilax have been 
discarded and is admired by only that 
class who have been impressed years ago 
by such mounted pieces in times when 
dame fortune was not smiling on them. 
I do not mean to say that occasion 
will never present itself where a set piece 
could not be considered good form, for 
certain occasions will demand such things 
as pertain to the achievements of a guest. 
It is only lately that I have seen a ban- 
quet table on which was mounted a beau- 
tiful model of a piece of machinery, the 
creation of a famous engineer, and this is 
an exception which certainly might re- 
peat itself. I am speaking generally of 
special functions when the banquet is 
not given in honor or memory of the 
work or achievement of a certain indi- 
vidual. Immaculate linen, brilliant 
glassware, a few ferns gracefully laid up- 
on the table cloth, low cut glass bowls 
filled with seasonable flowers will in my 
estimation present a very smart, fresh ap- 
pearance. There might be a single rose, 
a pink or carnation at each gentleman's 
place, and for the ladies a small bunch of 
pinks or roses; this is very appropriate 
at a banquet where circumstances are 
not so that the ladies come in evening 
dress. 

A perfect service demands that all the 
comforts that it is possible to give the 



guests seated at the table should be care- 
fully attended to, so I will advise that all 
the silver that is to be used for 
the whole dinner should not be put on 
the table. Fresh silver can easily and 
quickly Vje brought in at any time when 
a course is brought in or the old one re- 
moved. 

Now for the wine glasses. When three 
kinds of wines are served the glasses 
should not be removed from the table, 
but if more is served I would recommend 
the removal of one or two glasses which 
contains the first an i second service of 
wine. Bread should be passed around 
and not laid on the table. 

The laying out of a wedding breakfast 
differs a little from that of a banquet in 
that well chosen floral decorations and 
mounted cakes are not considered bad 
form. Otherwise all the other instruc- 
tion of the setting of the banquet table 
may be followed. The following illus- 
tration will give a clearer idea of what 
I consider the proper laying of a dinner 
table. 

I454-TWO WAYS OF SERVING 
DINNER. 

Course dinners are served in two dif- 
ferent styles, the French and the Rus- 
sian service, or club dinner. 

The French service requires thor- 
oughly trained waiters to avoid any 
blunders, as everything is served on 
large dishes elaborately decorated, the 
waiter helping each guest to a portion. 
This style of service is not popular. It 
may be antique and venerable, but too 
slow to suit. 

The Russian service or club dinner is 
by far the most satisfactory. It is 
quicker and simpler. All fish, meat, 
game, entrees, pastry, ices, etc., are pre- 
pared in individual portions, nicely gar- 



246 



FRACTICAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



nished and ornamented. The cooks and 
waiters do much of the work that is 
inipcsed on the guest when the French 
method is adopted, as in this case the 
guests are served with just abom the 
sized order wanted and in a much more 
appetizing way than if a portif-n was 
served from a large dish handled at the 
table. 



1455— PROPER DISHES TO USE. 

BOUILLON OR CONSOMMES — 
Should be served in cups if clear, but 
when it contains ve ,etables, quenelles or 
anything else use regular soup plates. 

ENTREES— Are generally served on 
six incn platters, but there are many 
exceptions to this rule. 

FISH — At breakfast, lunch and dinner 
should be served ou seven inch plates. 

APPETIZERS— Hors d'Oeuvres are 
served on five inch plates and are always 
garnished. 

MUTTON, TURKEY, VEAL AND 
PORK- -And all other boiled and roast 
meats should be served on a seven inch 
platter. 

ROAST BEEF— Should be served on 
an eight inch platter. 

SALADS — On five inch plates or dishes 
of fancy shapes purposely made to serve 
salads on. 

OYSTERS— On the shell are served in 
deep plates filled with fine cracked ice. 

CLAMS — On shell same as oysters. 

These suggestions are suitable if the 
Russian service is adopted, otherwise if 
the dinner or other meal is served family 
or French style, other rules dictated by 
circumstances must be followed. 

J456— NOTES ON TABLE ETI- 
QUETTE. 

Often I have been astonished to see 
persons who seemed to be the acme of 
refinement and elegance over-eating and 
drinking itiimoderately , and others who 
seemed to be every day, common sort of 
fellows display marked regard for osten- 
tation and ceremony. Modern hospi- 
tality should be remarkable for its simple 
elegance. Of course ceremonials vary at 



different entertainments, but in a general 
way I might say that it is customary to> 
have cards presented to each gentleman 
beai'ing the name of the lady whom he i;* 
to escort. This may save a great deal 
of embarrassment as it is not proper for a 
lad}' to enter th-e dining room alone, even 
though her neglect may result from an 
over.^ight. 

When dinner is announced the gentle- 
man should ()f?er his left arm and keep 
the lady nearest to the wall if it is possi- 
ble without too much display of eager- 
ness. Never precede a lady. I have ob- 
served that the most successful were 
those that never offered apologies for 
any little inconvenience, neglect or acci- 
dent that might have happened. It is 
indeed a difiicult task to do honors grace- 
fully, but simplicity, tact and composure 
are the keys to success. Gentlemen do 
not leave the dining room with the lady 
they have accompanied before dinner, 
but all remain standing until the last 
lady has disappeared be.'ore leaving the 
dining room. I 1 ave observed thqt a 
course is never called for the second time; 
to call for more is not strictly elegant. 

Usually the vegetables are taken to the 
mouth with a fork, and also as many 
dishes as possible. Natiirally peas, 
beans, curries, creams, ices, custards and 
delicate fanc}'- pastries are eaten with a 
spoon; not so for pie and melon which 
are always eaten with a fork. The 
daintiest eaters take frou', the side of the 
spoon and not from !.he end. It is per- 
fectly proper to pick a bone and to take 
corn in the fingers, but the utmost care 
should be taken against the soiling of the 
hands and mouth. The most refined 
eaters quietly ignore an}'- article found on 
the plate that might not be agreeable. 
When finished the knife and fork are 
quietly laid on the plate with the handles 
to the right, and the table left in as neat 
a iTianner as possible. I have observed 
that even the most gifted and brilliant 
conversationalists do not mouf«'polize the 
attention, so that everybody feels under 
obligation to contribute 10 the conversa- 
tion and congenialty of the table. I do 
not wish to pose as an authority on social 
matters, but these facts I have gleaned in 
i the exercise of my dut.es during my em- 



Proper Way to Set a Dinner Table. 




// // 




/^ /3 /2 // /^ 



1. Pepper. 

2. Salt. 

3. Salted Almonds. 

4. Butter DLsh, 

5. Bon Bon Dish. 

6. Water Glass. 

7. Champagne Glas.s. 

8. Port or Claret. 



g. Sauterne, or other light White 
Wine. 

10. Oyster P'ork. 

11. Hutter Knife. 

12. Soup Spoon. 
13-14. Knives. 

15. Napkin and Guest Card. 
16-17. Forks. 



The glasses may he arranged in a diiiferent manner if plenty of space can he 
given each guest, but they are handled with more ease when placed as shown in the 
above drawing. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTlvSTlC COOKERY. 



247 



ploy in the house of a nobleman who 
was himself a gentleman of exceptional 
elegance. 

.J457-NOTES ON PROVENANCE, 

SELECTION AND SERVICE 

OF WINES. 

The v/orld-famous chemist, Baron 
Liebig, says; "Wine as a restorative, as a 
means of refreshment when the powers 
of life ai-e exhausted, of giving anima- 
tion and energy where man has to strug- 
gle with days of trial and sorrow, as a 
means of correction and compensation 
where misproportion occurs iia restora- 
tion, and as a protection against tran- 
sient, organic disturbances, is surpassed 
by no product of nature or art." 

In treating this subject I will probably 
displease many who do not think that 
wine is a necessity or even are convinced 
that its use should be altogether abol- 
ished. My aim is to furnish those who 
are in the habit of using wine the neces- 
sary information in regard to its proper 
use, its selection and varieties, and all 
the information pertaining to the service 
of wine. I do not wish to influence or 
discuss the matter with pensons who are 
against its use altogether; but I have 
written this book to please the majority 
of the Bon Vivant, and as wines seem to 
go hand in hand with the highest social 
functions the world over, and further- 
more as the moderate use of wines is 
recognized as being beneficial by a ma- 
jority of the greatest physicians, its use 
will never be discarded. It is easily 
proven by statistics that in countries 
where pure wine is in daily use the per- 
centage of drunkenness is much less 
than in countries where strong alcoholic 
stimulants, stich as whiskies and bran- 
dies, are in popular favor. It has been 
my experience to observe more persons 
suffering from alcoholism in states where 
prohibition was in force. The product 
of the grape alone is a natural substance 
better fitted and suited for the human 
body than the enormous quantities of 
tea and coffee used the world over by 
prominent temperance advocates. In 
the Post Standard of Syracuse, N. Y., 
published October ist, 1900, I noticed 



with a good deal of satisfaction that 
Prof. W. O. Atwater conducted disinter- 
ested scientific experiments which had 
for its general conclusion that a mod- 
erate use of wine is a fuel adding energy 
to the human inachine. 

Wines are adulterated with such injur- 
ious substances as red coloring matters, 
alkalines, carbonates, sulphates of potash, 
copious additions of potato alcohol and 
man}' other .substances having a direct 
effect upon the nervous sj'stem, and 
which are likely responsible for all that 
has been said against wine. I was boni 
and brought up in a wine growing coun- 
try, and I must openly state that I have 
never seen bad effects from the moderate 
use of unadulterated wines. My only 
purpose in writing thus is to make ap- 
parent the evil caused by the making of 
adulterated wines. 

The proper service of wine is a study 
by itself. Connoisseurs will always speak 
of the bouquet of certain wines which 
they divide into two kinds — the general 
and the special. The general bouquet is 
that common to all good wine, which is 
produced by certain volatiles existing in 
the wines which are defined by chemists 
as oenanthic. The special exists only in 
certain kinds produced by grapes, such 
as Muscatel, Isabella and others which 
have been made from grapes purposely 
over-ripened. The bouquet in this case 
is produced by the essential oil occa- 
sioned by the over-ripeness of the fruit. 
Again a special bouquet might be occa- 
sioned b}' the age of the wood of which 
the casks are constructed. Unnatural bou- 
quets are produced by the use of fruit 
blossoms and other parts of certain 
plants, which, after having been sub- 
mitted to fermentation produce certain 
quantities of essential oil which is em- 
ployed in the produce of unnatural 
bouquet. Even the best connoisseur will 
not enjoy the same wine throughout a 
whole repast, as the palate becomes 
cloyed after the second glass or so, even 
when the best wines are used; that is 
where the tact and artistic discrimination 
of the host is put to the test and the 
beauty of a well chosen course is clearly 
demonstrated. The wines must be put 
on the table in such an order as to pro- 



248 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



pluce for the diner's constant enjoyment 
to the point where necessity or luxury 
ends and abuse begins. I should recom- 
mend a selection of wine whose body 
and flavor will finely blend with what 
is to be served; for example, with fish 
and soup, sauterne or sherry, with roast 
use hock or clarets, with game, sparkling 
Burgund}' or champagne, the rest of the 
dinner between the game and confection- 
ery use sparkling wines and with the 
confectionery, Madeira. 

H58— CHAMPAGNE. 

The imported wines are classified by 
wholesale importers more upon the vint- 
age than the name however high sound- 
ing, especially in the case of stilled dry 
wines which acquire a greater value with 
every 3'ear. On the contrary with the 
effervescent wines produced in the prov- 
ince of Champagne they will not improve 
after the twelve years of their keeping 
but loose their effervescense. Champagne 
is said to have been discovered by a 
monk of the Abbey of Hautvillers, a vil- 
lage in the prefecture of Reims, about 
200 years ago. His name was Father 
Perignon. He died in 1715. Efferves- 
cent champagne is made from the black 
grape almost identical with that from 
which red Burgundy is produced. When 
the time to gather the grapes has arrived 
the persons employed in gathering the 
grapes cut them with the utmost care, 
picking off all the unripe and inferior 
berries. The grapes are then pressed as 
soon as possible. The must is then 
placed in vats, remaining there not more 
than one day; after being allowed to 
clear it is drawn into barrels and is al- 
lowed to ferment and is not disturbed un- 
til the cold season, which is about Christ- 
mas time. The wine is then, or should 
be, clear and it is drawn from the lees, 
and carried to the cellars of the exporters 
or manufacturers where it is prepared to 
suit the demand of their trade. Different 
qualities of wine, such as that from the 
black grapes and the white grapes, is 
mixed in suitable proportions. The wine 
by this time contains carbonic g-'s and it 
is then that sugar is added, if the 
amount of saccharine is found deficient. 



If on the other hand the wine contains 
too nmch sugar the bottling is deferred 
until the natural process of fermentation 
has absorbed the excess of sugar. Previ- 
ous to the bottling the wine is clarified 
by means of gelatine and at this stage the 
expert wine maker exercises the greatest 
of care. The wine is then put into bot- 
tles of even thickness and perfectly 
round, for these bottles must be stout to 
stand the pressure of gas which is gene- 
rated during fermentation, which ensues 
after boiling. When the bottles are filled 
the)' are corked and an iron fastener 
made so as to be easily removed when 
the time comes to remove the sediment, 
an operation which is called disgorging. 
The bottles of wine are then placed in 
the cellar until after fermentation. After 
this fermentation has ceased the bottles 
are placed in an inclined position, which 
position causes the sediment t® settle 
down to the cork. When the proper 
time for disgorging has arrived the iron 
fastener is removed with the cork and 
the lump of yeast or sediment is expelled; 
the rising foam removes all the remain- 
ing impurities, and this is done with but 
little loss of wine. The bottles are then 
passed to the finishers who add what 
liqueur may be required if the wine is 
wanted otherwise than Brut; all is then 
ready for the bottles to be corked, 
handsomely wired and labeled. The 
wine prepared in the above manner 
without the addition of sugar is dry 
(Brut), that is to say, the taste of sugar 
is not perceptible. To produce wine that 
is sweeter to suit the taste of certain con- 
sumers the addition of liqueur is resorted 
to. This so called liqueur is a prepara- 
tion of old still wine and rock sugar. 

Sparkling wines, most in vogue in 
America, are the dry wines, and the3' 
certainly are in the author's estimation 
the best for table .u.se. Champagne might 
be classified in a general way in four dis- 
tinctive classes, namely: non-sparkling 
(non-mousseux); creaming (crement); 
sparkling (mousseux); grand-sparkling 
(grand mousseux). The non-mousseux 
(non-sparkling) is made as by the origi- 
nal methods of champagne making in 
the 17th century. It is not effervescent 
but is corked, tied and labeled in the 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



249 



usual manner. The crement (creaming) 
is only possessed of a slight effervescense, 
and this develops very moderately when 
poured into the glass, forming a light foam 
on top of the champagne. It is pre- 
sumably called creaming on that account. 
Mousseux (sparkling) contains sufficient 
gas to project the cork and rise gently to 
the mouth of the bottle, but has not the 
impetus of the following. Grand mous- 
seux (grand sparkling) expels the cork 
with a resonant report and the wine 
generously overflows. Most of the bet- 
ter known brands of champagne are 
made in the province of Champagne. 
Most of the exporting houses are at 
Epernay Mareuil Rilly Ay Avize, but 
there are sparkling wines produced in 
other countries of Europe, America and 
Australia which are made according to 
the methods employed in the province of 
Champagne. Some of the American 
wines are very good and when the vine- 
yards have more age the wine will 
probably be as good as that made in the 
old vinevards of France. 

Here follows a list of the most popular 
wines. Of course it must be understood 
that the firms named are producing sev- 
eral grades. Some of these vary from 
I33 per dozen quarts to $65 . Perrier 
Jouet has a grand sec of 1880 which sells 
at ^65 per dozen quarts. Pommery & 
Greno and others have also wines of the 
vintage of 1880. Deutz & Gelderman 
have one of the vintage of r88o that sells 
for $66, and another dry that sells for 
I29.50, but all of the following firms are 
considered among the first-class export- 
ing houses: 

Deutz & Gelderman. 

Pommery & Greno. 

G. H. Mumm & Co. 

Perrier & Jouet. 

Moet & Chandon. 

Cliquot & Werle (formerly Veuve 
Cliquot). 

Louis Roeder. 

Ruinart Pere & Fils. 

Piper Heidsieck. 

Bertier & Co. 

Binet, Fils & Co. 

Other sparkling wines come from Bur- 
gundy in the south of France. The 
grapes there are so much sweeter than 



they are in the province of Champagne 
that no addition of liqueur or sugar is 
necessary. It contains a good deal more 
alcohol than the wines from the province 
of Champagne, it is darker in color and 
of a very fine flavor; it will lose its efifer- 
vescense quicker than the others. The 
sparkling wines of Germany, Hock & 
Moselle, are finding their way into popu- 
lar favor. In America we have the 
sparkling Catawba; the best known are 
the Great Western, Cook's Imperial, 
White Top and Gold Seal. The grapes 
from which these champagnes are made, 
namely, the Catawba, is an abundant 
and reliable variety of a dark purple 
color and medium size. The methods 
employed in making the sparkling wines 
in America are those employed in France 
in the province of Champagne. In most 
instances experts who have learned in 
the cellars and vineyards of the province 
of Champagne are imported, thus assur- 
ing a similarity of systems. The progress 
in the making of American wines during 
the last few years has been great. The 
old complaint of foxiness has almost 
completely disappeared and the wine is 
finding much favor. A perfect cham- 
pagne is of the color of straw. If it is 
yellow or possesses a pink tinge the wine 
is not perfect, as the pressing was done 
in such a way as to extract some of the 
coloring matter from the grapes. As I 
have said before, champagne and sparkl- 
ing wines if kept in a cool cellar will im- 
prove until the tenth or twelfth year, 
after which they will lose their effer- 
vescense. 

Champagnes are usually served in 
broad stem glasses and it is advocated 
by the fine connoi.sseur to use a long 
stem glass as it will maintain its effer- 
vescense in the glass longer. Dry wines 
may be chilled to 45 degrees Fahr. but 
not colder. The sweet champagne may 
be frappe, "frozen." 

Extra dr}' champagne contains less of 
the saccharine admixture than dry, and 
Brut should contain none whatever. 

1459— BORDEAUX WINES. 
(Clarets). 

The finest red wines, or claret, are 



250 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



grown in France in the environ of Bor- 
deaux in the department of Gironde. 
The still dry wines known as claret are 
principally exported from Bordeaux, and 
that is why it is generally called by the 
name of the port from which it is ex- 
ported. The grape which produces the 
finest claret is a small black fruit. The 
time for making the wine in the depart- 
ment of the Gironde is in August, that is 
when the season is exceptionally good, 
but it does not begin very often until 
September. The good wines are treated 
four years before they are bottled and 
are classified first according to vintage 
and next the names of the establishments 
on which they are grown. Here follows 
a list of the best Bordeaux: 
Chateau I^afite. 

" Margeaux. 

" Larose. 

" Montrose. 

Haut Bailly. 

" Mouton Rothschild. 

" Leoville I^ascases. 

" Ivamarque. 

' ' Latour. 

" Rauzan. 

Haut Brion. 

H60— SAUTERNES. 

The fine white wines and graves are 
made from a white grape. The mode of 
making these wines differs somewhat 
from the red wines; in the first place the 
grapes are allowed to remain on the vines 
until thoroughly ripe, the berries only 
are then gathered and pressed; the over- 
ripeness of the grapes produces a very 
fine bouquet, especially noticeable in the 
wine produced from the first press. The 
most expensive and fashionable sau- 
ternes and graves are: 

Chateau Yquem. 

" Latour Blanche. 
" Suduirant. 

Haut Sauterne. 

Haut Barsac. 

Sauterne. 

Vin de Graves. 

H6 1— BURGUNDIES. 
The wines of Burgundy are both white 
and red, and are grown in the depart- 



ment of the Yonne and the Saone et 
Loire. Red Burgundies are the product 
of a black grape. The white is made 
from a variety of grape called Chardeney. 
The process of making wine is lil e that 
in the department of the Gironde. It is 
fermented in vats, drawn after a few 
days and the must pressed, the whole 
replaced in kegs for final fermentation, 
drawn about March, then drawn twice a 
year for about four years before it is 
ready for bottling. The soil on which 
the grapes used in the making of Bur- 
gundy wines are grown are hills of chalk, 
the vines are trained on sticks about 3^ 
feet long, and the fruit is gathered with 
the vitmost care. Burgundies are famous 
for their delicacy, piquancy and fra- 
grance, richness of flavor and well recog- 
nized medicinal properties. The white 
Burgundy is un.surpassed for dinner pur- 
poses and especially with the oysters. 
The sparkling is well worth the atten- 
tion of connoisseurs. Those better 
known are: 

RED. 

Chambertin. 
Musigny Vougeot. 
Clos Vougeot. 
Romance. 
Pommard. 
Beaune. 

WHITE. 
Chablis Moutonne. 
Meursault. 
Montrachet. 
Montrachet La Guichc. 

SPARKLING. 
Vol nay. 

Oeil de Perdrix. 
Grand Vin Rouge. 
Romance. 
Clos Vougeat. 

J462-RHINE WINES. 
The best Rhine wines are made in 
Germany in the district termed by the 
Germans as Rheingau, a region of the 
hills on the right bank of the Rhine 
about twenty-five miles in length and 
extending from Wolluf to Lorch. In 
the middle of this district is the famous 
Schloss Johannisberg, given by the em- 
peror of Austria to the late Prince Met- 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



251 



ternich. In the Rheingau are produced, 
among other wines, the celebrated Rude- 
sheimer. Marcobrunner and Hoch- 
heimer, from the latter of which the 
English word hock is derived. Nier- 
steiner and other well known wines are 
grown on the left bank of the Rhine. All 
Rhine wines have marked chemical char- 
acteristics ;they contain but little sugar,and 
the proportion of alcohol rarely exceeds 
twelve parts in a hundred, hence their 
ver}' great value medicinally, especially 
with those who are troubled with gout 
The sparkling wines of the Rhine are 
comparatively of recent date. Their 
process of manufacture resembles that 
of champagne. Some of the best brands 
are: 

Schloss Johannisberger Cabinet, Blue 
Seal. 

Hockheimer. 

Marcobrunner Cabinet. 

Sparkling Johannisberger, Brut. 

J463— MOSELLE WINE. 

Moselle wines are light and probably 
are not as rich as the Rhine wines, but 
they are very wholesome and almost 
equal to Burgundy with fish and oysters. 
The wine produced on the banks of the 
Moselle were famous before those of the 
Rhine had gained any celebrity. The best 
are grown on the lower Moselle between 
Treves and Coblentz. It is a very bright 
wine and should have a greenish yellow 
color, decided muscatel flavor and 
pleasant aroma. It is one of the most 
wholesome wines, for it is cool and dry, 
refreshing without unduly heating the 
system. Sparkling Moselle has of late 
years come very much into favor. 

Piesporter. 

Josephshofer Auslese. 

Graacher Hemmelrich. 

Brauneberger. 

Sparkling Scharzhofberger. 
Moselle. 

1464— MADEIRA. 
The Portuguese word Madeira means 
wood and the name was given to the 
island of Madeira when first discovered 
on account of its being covered with a 
dense forest. The culture of the grape 



commenced on the island of Madeira 
early in the fifteenth century. The 
vines are trailed on a frame work of cane 
and grow in ashy soil, the island being 
volcanic. Madeira wine is very rich, 
full body and aromatic A voyage to 
the East or West Indias improves its 
condition in a wondrous degree. In the 
following list you will notice one desig- 
nated as V. O. vintage of 1817, once 
owned by Captain Payne, of Charleston, 
S. C, and now the property of H. V. 
Bemis, who is probably the be.st connois- 
seur and most learned man in matter 
pertaining to the se'ection of wines. 
According to Mr. Bemis this wine is the 
last lot of old Madeira of the famous 
vintage of 1850; in 1851 the wine blight 
(Oidium Tuckeri) broke out on the 
island and occasioned in 1852 the loss of 
two hundred thousand pounds sterling. 
Captain Payne was once the owner of 
the parcicular lot and had it over three 
years on board ship on the African coast. 
At his death he left thirteen casks of 
this wine to his daughter, Mrs. Wheat, 
who had the wine taken to New Orleans 
for sale, where it was disposed of to sev- 
eral prominent gentlemen. All that is left 
of this famous wine is in the Richeileu cel- 
lar in Chicago. The person who once 
owned this wine claims to trace its origin 
to the vintage of 1817. 

V. O. Madeira, Vintage of 1817. 

Malmsey. 

Sercial Dry. 

Old Bual. 

Malvasia. 

Imperial Reserve. 

t465— SHERRY. 

The word sherry is of Spanish origin 
and is derived from the town of Xeres de 
la Frontera in Andalusia. Amontilla is 
in the province of Cordova and produces 
by far the best quality of wine. 

Pemartin Leviathan. 

Amontillado. 

Pale Sherry. 

Topaz. 

Aloroso. 

.^ 

1466— PORT WINE. 

In the following list I will call atten- 
tion to old crusted port of 1842 which Mr. 



252 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Beniis, proprietor of the Richelieu wine 
cellar in Chicago, has for sale, and which 
he obtained from the cellar of a gentle- 
man in London, England. It was bot- 
tled in 1854 and the price should warrant 
a delicate silky flavor, the full maturity 
developing characteristics to which age 
has given perfection. 

Old Crusted Port 1842. 

London Dock. 

Old Tawney. 

Sandeman's. 

Commendador. 



H67— WINES FOR A COURSE 

DINNER. 
What the author considers the proper 
way to arrange the service of wine for a 
course dinner. 



WINES. 
Graves, Sauterne, 
Haul Barsac, etc. 
Amontillado, Pale 
Sherry, Chateau 
Yquem, C h a b 1 i s, 
etc. 

Clarets, Chateau 
Lafite, Chateau 
Margeau, Latour, 
etc. 

Champagne, Brut, 
or Sparkling Bur- 
gundy. 
Old Madeira. 



MENU. 

Oj'sters or Clams. 
Soup. Fish. 



Roast. Entrees. 



Game and Salads. 



Dessert. 



1468— COGNAC. 

Brandies. 

Brandies are distilled from wine. The 
larger proportion is produced in France. 
In.mense vineyards are cultivated; the 
product of which is converted into 
brandy. When brandy is first made it 
has but very little color, but with age it 
darkens and assumes a pleasant taste. 
The strength of good brandy is from no 
to 130. The best brandies are: 

James Hennessey & Co. i, 2 and 3 
stars. 

Otard Dupuy & Co. 

Denis Mounier & Co. 



J. & F. Martel. 
Renault & Co. 
Evariste, Dupont & Co. 
Jule Robin. 
Barton Guestier. 



J469— LIQUEURS AND CORDIALS. 

Liqueurs and cordials are made with 
various aromatic herbs, also fruit pulp 
macerated with sugar, alcohol and water 
until thoroughly digested, then distilled 
and rectified, the product treated with 
syrup and spirits, coloring, etc. Here 
follows a list of the most fashionable and 
best known: 

French Vermouth. 

Italian Vermouth. 

Absinth, White. 

Creme de Menthe, Peppermint, White. 

Creme de Menthe, Glaciale, Pepper- 
mint, Green. 

Marasquin. 

Kirsch. 

Kummel Sec, Crystalise. 

Dantzich Eau de Vie. 

Anisette, White. 

Prunelle. 

Curacoa, White and Orange. 

Creme de Cacao, Chouva. 

Creme de Moka. 

Creme de Vanilla. 

Creme Angelique. 

Creuie de Genievre. 

Creme de Noyau. 

Creme de Roses. 

Creme de Cassis. 

Cherry Cordial. 

Abricotine. 

Liqueur d' Or. 

Green Chartreuse, Yellow Chartreuse, 
the only genuine is from the Monastery. 

Benedictine. 

Pepsin Cordial. 

Parfait Amour. 

Trappistine. 

1470— EGG LEMONADE. 

4 qts. of water. 

I ^2 lbs. of sugar. 
I doz. lemons. 
I large orange. 

5 whites of eggs. 
Finely cracked ice. 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



253 



Grate the rind of five lemons and the 
rind of the orange into a large bowl, 
more or less of the rind may be used 
according to the size and ripeness of the 
fruit. Scrape off the grated rind that 
adhers to the grater. Put a little sugar 
in the bowl and rub the zest and sugar 
together with the back of a spoon, 
squeeze in the juice of all the fruit; add 
the sugar and part of the water and the 
whites of eggs and beat the mixture 
until the sugar is dissolved. Put in the 
rest of the water and strain the lemonade 
into another vessel containing ice. When 
it is to be served fill a glass three parts 
full, place a shaker over the glass, or 
invert another on top, the rims close 
together, and shake up to produce the 
foam. 

I471-CIDER PUNCH. 
I bottle of champagne cider. 
I cup of sugar. 

1 cup of sherry. 

2 lemons. 

%. cup of water. 

Mix the sugar; water and wine to- 
gether in a pitcher and stir until the 
sugar is dissolved, slice in the lemons as 
for lemonade, put in a lump of ice and 
then pour in the cider. 

H72— GINGER POP. 

2 gallons of water. 

2 ozs, of raw ginger, pounded. 

2 lemons. 

4 level cupfuls of sugar, 

2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. 

I yeast cake dissolved in a half cup of 
water. 

Shave of the thin yellow rind of the 
lemon into a pail, squeeze in the juice. 



add the sugar, ginger and cream of tar- 
tar, boil the water and pour it over; 
when cold enough add the yeast, cover 
with a cloth and let ferment two days; 
strain off, bottle it and tie down the 
corks. 

J473— SODA MEAD, 

4 lbs. of honey. 

1 tablespoonful of powdered gum 
arable. 

2 ozs. of whole spices, cloves, cinna- 
mon, ginger and coriander seeds. 

I qt. of water. 

Make a syrup of the ingredients by 
boiling the spices in the water about half 
an hour; strain into another kettle, put 
in the hone)', boil up and skim; dissolve 
the gum in it and use about a gill to 
each glass of soda water. 

1474 -CLARET CUP. 
I bottle of claret. 

1 bottle soda water. 
yi. cup of Sherry. 
Peel of a Lemon. 

8 ozs. of sugar. 

2 slices of pineapple. 
Ice. 

Grate the lemon rind and rub it in the 
sugar with a few spoonfuls of water. Add 
the wine and pineapple, also the grated 
rind when the sugar is dissolved; strain 
and add the ice and soda water. 

1475— CATAWBA CUP. 

1 bottle of dr}' Catawba. 

2 bottles of soda water. 
yi tumbler of curacoa. 

Mix in a pitcher with plenty of ice, 
sugar and water; may be used instead of 
soda water. 



INDEX. 



(Numbers refer to the recipe, not to the page. 



Almond Blanc Mange 1096 

Almond Paste 1201 

Almondigillas 814 

Anchov}- 131 

" Canapes 132 

Salad 561 

" Tartines 750 

Antelope 258 

Fillet au Champignon 259 

Steak Saute 476 

Appetizers 475 

Arlets au Saucissons 753 

Beurrees de Caviare 749 

Cantaloupe with Salt 755 

Croutes au Anchovies 748 

Croustades au Salpicon 758 

Eggs Stuffed with Anchovies... 756 

Foies Gras de Poulets 759 

Papillottes of Potted Tongue... 754 

Petit Cauapes de Sardines 747 

Salad d'Aniandes au Caviare... 757 

Sardines au Parmesan 746 

Stuffed Olives 752 

Tartines d'Anchois 750 

Apple Sauce for Meats 407 

" Cake 1158 

" Cream Cake 1175 

" Cream 958 

" Cobbler.. 665 

" Crisped iiio 

" Fritters 507 

" Salad 549 

" Shortcake 1243 

" Snow HOC 

" Turnovers 945 

Apricot a la Regence 603 

Jam 977 

Arlet au Saucissons 753 

Artichokes and Gravy 474 

Aromatic Salt No. i 711 

" " No. 2 712 

Asparagus Stuffed 821 

' ' Tips on Toast 604 

" with Parmesan 781 

Aspic Jelly 710 



No. 

Backbone Stew, Fgg Dumpling 477 

Bacon and Liver 419 

" Sauerkraut 417 

" Spinach 414 

Bananas, Baked 1109 

" Compote of 608 

" Fritters 605 

Baking Powder 873 

" " Biscuits 874 

" Temperature 1251 

Barsch 794 

Bass, Broiled 69 

" Fried with Salt Pork 70 

Batter Fritters 1247 

" Finest Fr3nng 209 

" Common Frj'ing 1246 

Bavarian Cream page 179 

Bear ..* 262 

Beans and Baked Pork 615 

" Boston Baked 616 

" Butter, Stewed 673 

" Cold String 688 

" Dried Lima 689 

'' String.. 698 

Bechamel Sauce 137 

Beef. 

A la Bretone 478 

A la Creole 650 

Au Petit Pois 618 

Boiled with Horseradish 372 

" Stuffed Flank of 371 

Braised Tenderloin of 482 

Broiled Steak and Gravy 377 

Chipped and Cream 617 

Chipped in Butter 483 

Corned Beef 375 

E.scalopes 487 

Etouflfe de Boeuf au Legumes.. 609 

Porterhouse Steak 378 

Potted Steak 607 

Roast 365 

" Rib Ends of 368 

" Flank 369 

" Fland, Stuffed 370 

" Well Done 367 



2S6 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Beef, Round, Cold Boiled.. 734 

Rump Steak with Mushrooms. 432 

Salt 373 

Spiced Roll 735 

Steak a la Diable ( Deviled ) 384 

" a I'Espagnole 383 

*' a I'Hoteliere 380 

" a la Toulouse 381 

" aux Onions 386 

" Hamburgh 389 

" with Fr. Fried Potatoes. 379 

" with Mushrooms 382 

" with Oysters 388 

" Spaghetti „ 387 

" with Tomatoes. „ 385 

Stew 500 

Tough Steak 390 

Stuffed Flank of 370 

Tenderloin Larded with Mush.. 495 

Beets, Cold 708 

" Greens 683 

" Salad 546 

Biscuits, Baking Powder 874 

" Beaten 896 

" Graham 878 

Bisque, Almond 1280 

" Ginger 1274 

" Pineapple 1275 

Blanc Manges 1091 

" Almond 1096 

" Gelatine 1094 

" Neapolitan 1095 

Blue Fish, Baked a la Mauvillier... 85 

" Baked,StuffedalaCreole 86 

" Broiled 88 

Boars Head, Hamb'h Style( Dutch) 766 

Boned Chicken 731 

" Turkey 727 

Bordelais Sauce 138 

Brandy 1468 

Brains a la Vinaigrette 626 

Bread page 131 

Brown Raised 851 

Baking Powder 875 

Corn Cake, Hot 885 

" Ordinar)^ 902 

" Southern 901 

Dough, Ordinary 827 

Finest 835 

Finest Rusk 847 

French Loaves 833 

Ginger Without Eggs 884, 1237 

Graham 831 

Loaves, Ordinary 830 



Bread, Milk 

Raised Brown 

" Ginger 

Rye 

Sally Lunn 

Steamed Brown 

Sweet Rusk... 

Vienna 

Bread Fritters 

Bread Sauce 

Broiling Meats 

Brook Trout 

Brown Gravy , 

Brussel Sprouts 

Buffalo , 

Buns, Currant. 

" Hot 

' ' Ordinary, or Butter Rusk. 

Butter, Lemon 

" Orange 

" Sauce, No. i 

" No. 2 

Cabbage and Celer}' Salad 

Creamed 

Fried 

Shredded with Mayonnaise.. 
Cakes. 

Angel Food 

Almond Drops 

Almond 

Aniseed 

Rusk 

Austrian 

Banaua 

Chocolate 

" Baisees 

" Cream Drops 

Citron , 

Cocoanut Drops 

Cream Drops 

Dream 

Deli cate 

Fruit No. I 

" No. 2 

" Royal English 

" No. 4 

Genoese 

Hickory Nut 

Jelly Drops 

" White 

" Glazed 

Jelly 

" Roll 

" " No. 2 



850 
851 
852 
836 
842 
886 
848 
838 

5" 
441 

37& 
95 
426 
672 
261 

845 
844 

843 
971 
97& 
125 
126 

557 
693. 
694 
551 

1 134 
1 188 
1142 
1179 
1200 

1 145 
1 168 
1 138 

1 194 
1 198 

115 
1 187 
1 196 

1 155 
1 140 

1159 
1160 
1161 
1 162 

1171 

1 143 
1 185 

1 185 

1 1 86 
1 167 

1157 
1 176 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



257 



Cakes. 

Lady 1141 

" Fingers 1183 

" " Bakers 1182 

Lafayette 1154 

Macaroon 1176 

Marble 1146 

Marion 1181 

Motsa 792 

Neapol i tan 1172 

Ordinary 1147 

Othellos 1 195 

Pistachio 1164 

Polish 795 

Pound 1 149 

" Fruit 1150 

" Small 1152 

" Ivayer 1153 

Queen 1156 

Raised Cake. 

Almond 858 

Caraway ;.. 859 

Coffee Cake 853 

Fruit §62 

German Puffs 846 

Kaiijlauff 864 

Plam 861 

Plum 863 

Saffron 860 

Sweet Dumplings 865 



Tea Cake 

Raisin, White 

Savoy, Small 

Spice 

Sponge 

Sponge, No. 2 

Sponge Drops, Small.... 
Sponge Drops, Glazed.. 

Spring Lake Gems 

Snow 

Snow Balls 

Sunshine 

Tiger 

Twin Angel 

Twin Gold 

Walnut 

Water Sponge 

Wine 

White 

White Jelly Roll 

White Jelly ., 

White Mountain Gems . 
Wine Rusk 



.... 854 

.... 1180 

.... 1189 

.... 1173 

•..• 1135 

.... 1174 

... 1184 

.... 1197 

.... 1191 

.... 1137 

.... 1193 

.... 1177 

.... 1178 

... 1165 

... 1166 

... 1 169 

... 1163 

... 1139 

... 1144 

... 1136 

... 1148 

... 1190 

... 1199 

Calf's Brains Fried with Olives 480 



Calf's Brains Patties 

Head Breaded, Tartare Sauce.. 

Head in Omelet 

Head, Turtle Style 

Liver a la Roberts 

Liver Broiled 

Liver Broiled, Tomato Sauce... 

Liver en Croustades 

Liver, Prince Palermo 

Candy. 

Notes on making page 

Almond 

" Anothe Way 

Bar 

Apricot Chocolate 

" Comfits 

" Jellies 

Baskets 

Bon Bons 

" " Cocoanut 

'i " Moca 

" " Vanilla Cream 

Brazil Bar 

Candied Ni-ts 

Caramels, Maple Sugar 

" Vanilla 

Chocolate Cream Candy 

Bon Bons 

Cream Drops No. i.. 

" " No. 2.. 

" Best... 



Dominoes 

Candy to Pull ... 

Cream Bar 

Cocoanut Bar 

" Chocolate Drops 

Cream Candy , 

Crystalliza';ion .., 

Date Creams 

Drops, Cough 

" Lemon 

" Mint 

" Wintergreen 

Everton Taffy 

Fig Creams 

French Creams 

Fondant ®r Cream 

Gum Drops 

Honey Nougat 

Horehound 

Hungarian Chocolate Loaf 

Lemon Cream 

Marshmallows 



No 
490 

479 
502 
638 
486 
420 
421 
627 
780 

223 
1400 
1403 
1383 
1369 
1368 

1367 
1391 
1361 

1364 
1365 
1362 

1384 
1397 
1380 

1379 
1378 
1359 
1349 
1350 
135 i 
1352 
1353 
1354 
1355 
1385 
1356 
1376 
1.363 
1373 
1389 
1390 

1387 
1388 
1404 
1374 
1375 
1348 
1407 
1370 

1399 
1360 

1394 
1358 



258 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Candy. 

Manshmallows, Chocolate 1357 

Molasses 1405 

" No. 2 1406 

Neapolitan Cream Bars 1386 

Peanut 1402 

Peanut Bar 1381 

Popcorn Balls 1408 

Rock 1398 

Rose Cream 1393 

Stick 1395 

Strawberry Cream 1377 

Transparent Stick 1396 

Toys 1392 

Tutti Frutti 1371 

Walnut Bar 1382 

" Creams 1372 

Water Iced Confections 1366 

White Sugar, to Pull 1401 

Cantaloupe witn Salt 755 

Caper Sauce 393 

Capons, Roasted 428 

Carrots, Brown 680 

Fried 68r 

Stewed 682 

Catawba Cup 1475 

Catfish 71 

Cauliflower Salad 545 

Caviare 714 

" Beurrees de 749 

Celery a laCreme.... 503 

" and Cheese, Baked 498 

" Salad 543 

" Sauce, White 139 

" to Curl 703 

Charlotte. 

Apple 1 1 17 

Hungarian 1116 

Individual 1115 

Parisienne 1124 

Strawberry 1118 

Charlotte Russe 1122 

" Individual 1123 

Cheese and Celery Baked 498 

" Fondu 636 

" Omelet 455 

" Rolls 1245 

" Cakes 1231 

" Ramequins 1230 

Chestnuts, Puree of 362 

" Sauce 361 

" Stuffing for Turkeys 

and Chickens 359 

Chicken, a la Bechamel 303 



Chicken, a la Marengo 325 

" a la Sicilienne (Italian).. 776 

" Boiled with Salt Pork 314 

" " auxOeufs( egg sc) 317 

" Boned 731 

" Braised 323 

" Breast a la Castelane 328 

" Broiled . 302 

" Brott au Legumes 304 

" Canelons 312 

" Croquettes 310 

" " alaParisien'e 311 

Curry 334 

" Cutlets, a la Jardiniere... 318 

" " Clarendon 308 

" " Tomato Sauce... 337 

" Fillets 326 

" p-illet a la Regence 329 

" Fillets aux Asperges 327 

" Fillet, Paunceforte 335 

" Fricassee, Frency St3'le.. 300 

" Fried, Lyonaise 332 

" Fricasseed with Mush 333 

" How to Ma^-e Tender 342 

" In Tartare 331 

" Liver in Croustades 313 

" " Omelet 461 

" Maryland Style 316 

" Mayonnaise of 726 

" Patties No. r 321 

" " No. 2 322 

Pie 305 

" " Brunoise 306 

" " Plain 307 

" Pot Pie 301 

" Poulets au Truffles 724 

" Potage, a la Richelieu ... 441 

' ' Puree for the Sick 340 

" Ragout of Chicken Gib.. 309 

" Roast, 299 

" , Stuffed 319 

Salad 537 

" Saute, a I'ltalienne 315 

" Saute aux Haricots 336 

" Souffle in Cases 338 

" Supreme, a I'Ecarlate ... 330 

" with Tomato Sauce 324 

Chinese Cookery 761 

Chocolate 1259 

Cierniki 797 

Cider Punch 1471 

Clam. 

Chowder No. i 53 

No. 2 54 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Clara. 

Chowder, Coney Island Style... 237 

Cocktail 241 

en Canape 239 

On the Half Shell 236 

Patties 242 

Scalloped on Shells 240 

Soft Shell, Fried 238 

Claret Cup 1474 

Cloth for Galantine 719 

Cockles 243 

Cod Baked Stuffed 72 

" Boiled, Egg Sauce 74 

" Fried 73 

Codfish Balls 121 

" Fried in Olive Oil 774 

" In Cream 122 

" Salad 562 

Coffee 1254 

" French 1255 

" Ordinary 1256 

" " Another Way 1257 

Cordials 1469 

Corn Cake, Hot 8S5 

Cold Dishes page 106 

Coloring 7 

Cookies, No. 2 1234 

' ' Ordinary 1 233 

" No. 3, Best 1235 

Coon 260 

Conserves page 159 

' ' Almond 968 

' ' Florida 969 

" Lemon 967 

" Pineapple 970 

Corn, Hulled 505 

" Pudding, Fresh 679 

" Roasted 676 

' ' and Tomatoes 677 

" Custard Steamed 499 

" Bread, Southern 901 

" " Ordinary 902 

' ' Gems 904 

' ' Hoe Cakes 903 

" Mush 898 

Corned Beef, How to Make 375 

" " in Jelly 732 

" " " Another Way 733 

" " Boiled and Cabbage. 422 

" " Hash 634 

" " Stewed 635 

Tongue 443 

Cotelette d'Agneau au Legumee . . 501 

Crabs 181 



Crabs. 

a la Vinaigrette 

Deviled 

How to Boil 

In Cases 

On Toast 

Soft Shell, Boiled 

" Fried 

Salad 

Creams. 

Bavarian Plain 

" with Fruit , 

" Maraschino 

' ' Rose 

' ' Strawberry 

" Chocolate , 

' ' Pistachio 

Cream Fritters 

Rolls 

' ' Sauce 

" Italienne 

Crepinettes , 

Croaker 

" in Batter 

Croquettes Piemontaise (Italian), 

Crosnes 

Croustades au Salpicon 

Croutes au Anchois , 

Crullers 

' ' Sour Cream 

Cucumbers , 

Salad 

Custards. 

Caramel 

Chocolate 

Cocoanut, Baked 

Grape 

Pineapple 

Plain 

Dolmas • 

Doughnuts 

Raised, No. i 

" " No. 2 

No. 3 

" Sour Cream 

Dressing, Onion 

Duck, Wild 

' ' Canvass Back 

' ' Common Wild 

' ' Domestic 

" Mallard, Roast 

Saute of, with Truffles 

" Teal 

Ducklings with Green Peas 



259 
No. 

185 
186 
182 
187 
188 

183 
184 

563 

1 106 
1 105 
1 104 
II2I 

1 107 
III9 
1 120 

508 

954 
140 

1 108 
612 

75 
625 

775 
787 
758 
748 
895 
894 
706 
548 

1063 
1062 

IIOI 

1066 
I065 
1064 
822 
895 
855 
856 

857 
894 
272 
269 
270 
274 

354 
271 
356 
273 
355 



26o 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



No. 

Eclairs, aiix Amandes 1226 

" Cocoanut 1225 

" Fruit 1227 

Eggs. 

au Fromage 465 

Boiled 445 

Buttered 449 

Breaded 469 

Deviled 470 

Fried 444 

Poached, a la Chinoise 468 

" ill Gravy 472 

" or Dropped 446 

Salad 541 

Sauce 146 

Scrambled, Country Style . . . 447 

Hotel Style 448! 

' ' with Asparagus . . . 467 I 

" " Tomatoes. . . . 471 

Shirred 450 

Stuffed with Anchovies 756 j 

Cold 466] 

Egg Lemonade 1470 

Egg-plant, Fried 700 [ 

Stewed 658 

Eldorados 952 

Elk 256 

" a la Polonaise 257 

Emergency Salad 540 

Endive Salad 535 

English and French Cookery 763 

Entrees P^ige 69 

Escalopes de Boeuf en Demi Glace 487 

Espagnole 427 

Farina Cakes with Jam 597 

Fillings. 

Cheese Puff 962 

Cocoanut 976 

Currant Cream 979 

Lemon for Pies and Tarts 972 

Nut 980 

Orange 973 

Pineapple Cream for 975 

Fish. 

A la Bechamel 100 

A la Boulangere 113! 

A la Cardinal 103 } 

A la Chamford 104 1 

A la Clievaliere 109 

A rindienne 108 

A ritalienne 107 

A la Joinville 110 

A la Lyonnaise 116 

A la Maitre d'Hotel 102 



No. 

Fish. 

A la Morny 105 

Anchovy 131 

' ' Canapes of 132 

A la Presidence in 

A la Russe 112 

A la Tartar 106 

Au Gratin 1 14 

Au Gratin 594 

Baked Stuffed 120 

Bass, Broiled 69 

" Fried with Salt Pork 70 

Bluefish, Baked a la Mauvillier 85 

" Stuffed, Creole. 86 

Broiled 88 

Breaded with Motsa 790 

Brook Trout 95 

Caliish 71 

Cod, Baked Stuffed 72 

'• Boiled, Egg Sauce 74 

': Fried 73 

Codfish Balls 121 

' ' in Cream 122 

Croaker 75 

" in Batter 625 

En Bellevue loi 

Halibut, Sauce Doree 76 

" a la Maryland 77 

" Broiled 78 

In Aspic 1445 

Lake Trout, Baked 79 

Fried 80 

Mackerel, Broiled 8^ 

Salt, Boiled 118 

" " Broiled 119 

Mackinaw Trout S3 

Muscallonge, Boiled 84 

Pan Fish Fried 89 

Perch, Fried '. 90 

" Souchy 91 

Pickerel, Broiled 92 

Pike a la Venitienne 93 

Salad 536 

Salmon, Kippered or Smoked. 117 

Salmon Trout 81 

Salt Fish 1 23 

Scalloped 115 

Shad Roe, Fried 127 

" Scrambled 128 

Sole Fillets 94 

Whilefish a I'Espagnole 98 

" Baked Stuffed 99 

" Boiled, Caper Sauce. 96 

" Broiled 97 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



261 



No. 

Flannel Cakes 869 

Flavored Vinegars 525 

Floating Island 1097 

Foies Gras en Jelly 716 

" de Poulet 759 

Fowls, Cutting Up 297 

" To Truss Any Kind 298 

" Patties rimperial 339 

French and English Cookery 763 

■*' Salad Dressing 521 

Friars Omelet 1114 

Fritters. 

App'e 507 

Banana 605 

Batter 1247 

Bread 511 

Cloche 510 

Cream 508 

Farina 666 

Orange 509 

Parsnip 590 

Peach 513 

Pineapple 514 

Plain 517 

" No. 2 664 

Shell 516 

Spanish 515 

Vanilla Puff 639 

Frog Leg Salad 558 

Frozen Fruit in Creams and Ices... 1266 

Game 244 

" Kromeskies 655 

" Sauce 652 

" Soup 55 

Gal a tines. 

Another Wa^' 729 

Cloth for 719 

De Becassines 717 

Decorated 1444 

Pigs Head 737 

De Poulet 713 

Garnishing 575 

Gaspasch io 813 

Geese, Wild 274 

Gelatine Blanc Mange 1094 

Gems, Scotch 883 

" Corn 904 

German Puffs S46 

German Salad Dressing 524 

Giblets in Shells 645 

" Sauce 277 

Ginger Pop 1472 

Ginger Bread 1236 

" Snaps, Curled 123S 



No. 

Ginger Snaps, No. i 1239 

'" " No. 2 1240 

Glazing of Meat 722 

Goose. 

Boiled with Baked Apples 358 

Domestic Roasted 357 

Galantine of 715 

Roast Green (Young Goose)... 363 

Stuffed with Potatoes 364 

Wild, Roasted 276 

" " Stuffed 275 

Gravy, Brown 426 

Griddle Cakes. 

Bread 890 

Buckwheat 871 

Corn 893 

Graham 870 

" Bicad 891 

Rice 892 

Grouse 289 

'* a la Chasseur 290 

" Salmi of 648 

Hachimono "Japanese" 785 

Halibut a la Maryland 77 

Broiled 78 

'* Sauce Doree 76 

Ham. 

Boiled 409 

Deviled 596 

" with Sweet Potatoes.... 613 

Eggs and 464 

Minced on Toast 630 

Omelet 454 

" Champagne Sauce 413 

Salad 569 

Roast 411 

" an Parmesan 434 

" au vin Madere 412 

To Cure 424 

Haggis Scotch 818 

Hamburgh Salad 571 

Hash, Corned Beef ., 634 

Heart, Boiled Ox, Tomato Sauce... 415 

Head Cheese 720 

Hollandaise Ssuce 130 

" " No. 2 133 

Hominy, Fried 686 

Hors D'Oeuvres 745 

How to Make Corned Beef 375 

How to Make Stock for Soups, page I 

Hulled Corn 505 

Ice Cream. 

Notes on 1260 

Almond 1280 



262 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



No. 

Ice Cream. 

Artificial Cream...... , 1261 

" " No. I 1262 

" " No. 2 1263 

" " No. 3 1264 

Brown Bread..... 1285 

Cave 1347 

Chocolate 1269 

Cocoanut 1276 

Coffee 1270 

Combination No. i 1298 

" No. 2 1299 

" No. 3 1300 

" No. 4 1301 

" No. 5 1302 

" No. 6 1303 

" No. 7 1304 

Corn Starch 1278 

Curacoa 1281 

Frozen Fruits 1286 

Frozen Fruits in Creams, Ices.. 1266 

Gelatine lo Ornament 1296 

Ginger Bisque... 1274 

Hickory Nut. 1279 

Iced Cups 1297 

Maraschino 1282 

Neapolitan 1292 

Ornamental 1295 

Orange Flower 1288 

Peach 1290 

Pecan 1273 

Pineapple 1275 

Pistachio 1277 

Plum 1283 

Rose 1272 

Shredded Wheat 1287 

Strawberry 1271 

Tea 1289 

Tutti Frutti 1294 

Vanilla 1267 

Vienna Cakes 1293 

Violet 1284 

White Cherry 1268 

Ices. 

Apricot 1330 

Currant 1333 

Concord Grape 1329 

Grape 1328 

Havana 1325 

Orange 1326 

Orange and Cocoanut 1336 

Peach 1327 

Pineapple 1334 

Raspberry 1337 



Ices. 

Red Cherry 1331? 

Strawberry 1332 

Diplomatic Pudding... 1314- 

Custard 1316-- 

Fig Pudding. 1315 

Ice Box or Cave 1347 

Mousses 1305. 

" Chocolate .„ 1311 

" Coffee i3o8> 

" Lemon 1310 

" Peach 1312 

" Strawberry 1307 

" Vanilla 1309' 

" Violet 1306 

Nesselrode Pudding.. 1313 

Punch a la Regence 1346 

" a la Richelieu„ 1335 

" a la Russe 1340 

*^' Angelica 1342" 

" Geneva I344 

" Imperial 1341 

" Kirschwasser... 1345 

" Roman 1338 

" Strawberry 1330 

" Spongada or Ice Sponge 1291 

" Victoria 1343 

Rice Custard 131S 

Sago Custard 1319 

Sherbet. 

Apple 133^ 

Florentine 1324 

Lemon 132a 

Parisian 1321 

Pineapple 1323 

Turkish 819 

Tapioca Custard 1317 

Icing and Frosting for Cakes. 

Almond 1410 

Cocoanut _ 141 1 

F'rench Liqueurs 1412 

Glace, Boiled Chocolate 1417 

" " Rose 1416 

" " Yellow 1414 

" " White 1415 

Pearl Glaze for Sponge Cake 

and Angel Food.„ 1413 

Royal _ 1409 

Irish Stew.„ 642 

Italienne Sauce 653 

Jambalaya 760 

Japanese C'okery 784 

Salad 786 

Jelly Aspic 710 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



263 



Jellies page 179 

Champagne 1128 

Corn Starch 1092 

Cranberry 43 1 

Grapes in 1441 

Macedoine of Fruit 1439 

Neapolitan 1443 

Orange — 1 132 

Russian 1 130 

Soda Water 1131 

Stock 1 1 27 

Tapioca 1093 

Turkish 1442 

Various Fruit 1133 

"Wine T129 

Jewish Cookery . 788 

Jnoguis 770 

Jumbles , 1232 

Kisses 1205-1206 

Kidneys Broiled. 435 

" Minced 601 

" Omelet., 460 

' ' Saute 643 

Kohl Rabi 687 

Kromeskies 654 

" Game 687 

Kwas Kwas 796 

Lake Trout, Baked 79 

Fried 80 

Lamb, Cutlets 400 

agneau aux Haricots Vert . 661 

Blanquette of 481 

Breast of, Stewed with Du. 619 

Chops au Petit Pois 398 

Cotelettes d'Agnean au 

Legumes 501 

Epigram of, with TomatoSa. 595 

Fries 600 

Heart, a I'Ecossaisc 586 

Roast 397 

Stewed with Potatoes 644 

Tongue with Brus'l Sprouts 587 

" " Artichokes .. 649 

Lemonade Egg 1470 

Lemon Butter 971 

' ' Snow 1098 

Lettuce Salad 552 

Liqueurs 1469 

Liver and Bacon 419 

" Broiled Calf's 420 

" Calf's a la Roberts 486 

Lobsters 163 

Broiled Live 165 

Canned a la Vinaigrette 169 



No. 
Lobsters. 

Croquettes 167 

Cutlets .. 166 

Deviled 173 

En Canape •. . . 170 

How to Boil r6l 

In Shell 168 

Patties , 171 

Salad 568 

Sauce 143 

Scalloped 172 

" en Coquille ■ 176 

Macaroni and Cheese 574 

" a la Francaise 575 

" a I'ltalienne 576 

" a la Genoise 628 

"' Timbalesdemacau Truf. 641 

" with Neufchatel. 629 

Macaroons. 

Almond Paste for 120I 

Almond Ring 1204 

I'ocoanut 1202 

Ordinar}' 1203 

Mackerel, Broiled 82 

" Salt, Boiled 118 

" '* Broiled 1 19 

Mayonaise 5 19 

Green, for oyster sal. or orna. 522 

Thin 520 

Measure and Weight 1252 

Meats. 

Broiling, 376 

Glazing of 722 

Unnecessary Buning of 374 

Meringue, for Pies 944 

" a la Ro.se 12 13 

" Almond 1214 

" " Iceberg 1192 

" " Puff 1207 

" Blackberry 1218 

" Cream 1209 

" " No. 2 1210 

" " No. 3 1211 

" Chocolate 1212,1215 

" Florentine 1216 

" Genoese 1221 

" Paste 1208 

" Peach 1219 

" Pineapple 1220 

" Strawberry 1217 

Mexican Tortillas 793 

Mincemeat, Best 963 

' ' Cheap 965 

" " No. 2 966 



264 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Mincement Standard 

Mint Sauce 

Montecaclos 

Mousse de Fruit 

Muffins Raised , 

Corn 



Graham Raised. 



Raised Egj? 

Wheat 

Mush, Corn 

" Fried 

" " Pone 

Mushrooms Stewed, on Toast. 

" au vin 

Mussels 

" Stewed 

Mustard Sauce 



Mutton Chops, Broiled 

" " English 

" " Family Dish 

" " Tomato Sauce .... 

" Irish Stew 

" Leg of, Boiled, Caper Sa. 

' ' Roast 

" Saddle, Stuffed 

Neapolitan Blanc Mange 

Nalenikis 

Nasturtium Vinegar 

New England Boiled Dinner 

Olive Oil 

Olives Stuffed 

Omelet a I'Espagnole 

" Cheese 

" Chicken Liver 

Friars 

" Ham 

Jelly 

" Kidney 

" Onion 

" Oyster 

' ' Parsley 

Plain 

" Rum 

" Shrimp 

Souffle 

' ' Tomato 

Onions, Dressing 

" Omelet 

" Stuffed 

Opossum 

" Roast with Sweet Potatoes 
Orange Butter 



No. 
964 
408 
817 
1099 
849 
881 
882 
850 
8S0 
872 
879 



900 

588 

631 
632 

633 
439 
399 
394 
396 
395 
642 
392 
391 
589 
1095 
798 
528 
425 
744 
752 
462 

455 
461 
1 1 14 
454 
45S 
460 

453 
456 
452 
451 
457 
473 
463 
459 
272 

453 
475 

254' 
255 i 
978 I 



Orange Fritters 509 

Orange Salad 550 

Ornamental Cookery. 

Almond, Colonade of 143& 

An Easy and Handsome De- 
sign 1429 

Bag and Tubes or Metallic 

Syringe. 1419 

Baskets, to Make 1426 

Border Ornament, Raised .... 1427 

" " Another Way 1428 
Cake Decorated with Almonds 

or Frviit 1435 

Cake Decorated with Walnuts 

and Candied Orange 1434 

Cake Decorated with Rock 

Candy 1435 

Cake Mounted with Crj^stal- 

lized Grapes 1436 

Colors of Cakes 1431 

Fish in Aspic Jelly 1445 

Flowers in Icing, How to Make 1422 

Form of Cakes 1430 

Frills and Rosettes, Paper .... 145 1 

Galantine, a Royal 1444 

Geneva Lake 1440 

Gigantic Egg, to Make 1447 

How to Decorate Cake 1425 

Icing for Ornamentation 1421 

Lettering 1423 

Macedoine of Fruit ^439 

Ornaments Easily Bought 1424 

Paper Cases, Individual 1352 

Paper Decorations 1432 

Piping 1418 

" on Net 1410 

Shrimps in Aspic 1446 

Toys and Ornaments Moulded. 1437 

Ox Heart Boiled, Tomato Sauce. . . 415 

Ox Tongue 423 

" Hollandaise 611 

Oyster Plant Salad 572 

Oysters a la Bismarck 228 

" a la Humbert 234 

" a I'ltalienne 210 

" a la Marlboroxigh 200 

" a la Russe 208 

" a la Tartare 226 

" Bisque, Brown 222 

' ' Broiled 197 

" " in the SLell 227 

" vStuffed 19S 

" Cocktail No. i 190 

'• " No. 2 191 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



265 



Oysters, Creamed on Toast 

' ' Croquettes 

" Croustade 

Deviled 

" en Aspic 

'■ en Brochette 

" en Corbeille 

" en Papillotte 

" Finest Frying Batter 

' ' Fricasseed 

" Fried 

" " Cheaper Way 

" " Double Breaded .... 

" '• in Butter 

" Fritters 

" In Cases 

Mock 

' ' Omelet 

On the Half Shell 

Patties 

Pie 

" " Individual 

Pot Pie 

" Roasted, Rochelle Stj-le... 

" Salad 

" Sauce, White 

" Scalloped, Fancy 

" " Individual dsh. 

In Silver Shells 
On the Hf. Shi. 

" Large Pan 

' ' Steamed 

" Stew, Box 

" Coast 

" Milk 

" Plain 

" Stuffing for Fowls 

Truffled 

" Veal and Oyster Pie 

" Vol an Vent 

Pancakes, French 

" French au Confitures ... 

" German 

Parsley, Fried 

' ' Omelet 

" Sauce 

Parsnip Fritters 

Partridge, a la Berlinoise 

" Ballotines 

" Broiled 

" Escabescia of 

Roast 

Souffle of 

WithCabba.e 



No. 

233 
231 
207 

230 
229 

213 
225 
209 
232 
201 
203 
202 
219 
204 
206 

504 
211 
189 
212 
214 

216 

205 
567 

224 

I 
217 

220 
218 
221 
196 
192 
195 
193 
194 
440 
223 

593 
235 
907 

598 
905 
433 
452 
142 
590 
293 
295 
2yl 
816 

294 
296 
292 



No. 



Pastry. 

Puff Paste 

" " French 

" "of Suet 

Pie Pa^te, Main 

Plain Short Paste for 
lings and Puddings . 

Sweet Tart Paste 

Paste for Steamed I oil 

Pastry Creams 

Coffee 

Chocolate 

Pate de Becassines au Truffles 

Pates or Raised Pies 

Patties, Calves Brain 

" Clam 

" Cutters for 

' ' Oysters 

" Salmon 

" Shell 

" Shells 

' ' Various Fruit 

Peaches and Cream 

Cobler 

Shortcake , 

With Rice 

Peas, Green 

Perch, Fried 

" Souchy.. 

Petit Pates de Foies de Poulets. 

Pickerel, Broiled 

Pickle for Spiced Meat 

Pie Paste, Plain 

Pie. 

Apple 

" Best Way 

" Cream 

" Turnovers 

Arrowroot 

Butter 

Chocolate 

Cocoanut Custard 

" " No. 2 

White 

Cranberry 

Cream Curd 

Custard 

Gooseberry 

Lemon No. i 

" No. 2 

" No. 3 

" Mock 

Meringue for 

Orange 



Dumjj- 



910 
909 
911 

. 981 

• 91^ 

. 986 

961 

■ 959 
960 

739 
738 
490 
242 
957 

212 
591 

955 

946 

956 
1 102 

663 
1242 

592 

695 
90 

91 
721 

92 
736 
911 

914 
913 
915 
945 
925 
933 
940 
940A 
942 

943 
922 

934 
923 
938 
917 
918 
919 
921 

944 
916 



266 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Pie, Peach 937 

Pineapple Cream 924 

Potato Cream 935 

Pumpkin 926 

" No. 2 927 

" Without Egs^s 929 

Raised or Pates 738 

Squash 931 

" Custard 930 

Strawberry 936 

Sweet Potato 928 

Various Fruit 939 

Vinegar 932 

Washington 920 

Pigeons Potted 491 

" Pie 484 

Pigs Head, a la Russe 489 

" Galantine 737 

Pike, a la Venitienne 93 

Pilaff 820 

Pineapple Fritters 514 

" Salad iiii 

Plover 284 

Polenta (Italian) 777 

Polish Scrasis 800 

Popovers 897 

Pork. 

Back Bone Stew, Egg Dumpl. 477 

Baked, and Beans 615 

Boar's Head Hamburg style(D) 766 

Boiled, and Sauerkraut 416 

Chops with Fried Apples 606 

Chops with Gravy 404 

Fried Salt Pork and Milk Gra. 405 

How to Roast Suckling Pig 406 

Perfumed (Chinese) 762 

Roast 403 

Salad 539 

Sausage 436 

Spare Rib, Country Style 580 

Tete de Cochon Farci 718 

Potatoes. 

a la Creme 175 

a la Julienne 160 

a la Poulette 670 

a la Maitre d'Hotel 156 

aux Fine Herbs 669 

au Persils 174 

Baked in Milk 690 

Boulette 149 

Croquettes 657 

Dauphine 150 

Duchesse 148 

Frizzed 151 



Potatoes. 

Genevoise 152 

Hollandaise 154 

Lyonnaise 155 

Manchester 1 62 

Mashed 671 

Minced 159 

Pome a I'Anglaise 161 

Puffs 512 

Sabatier 153 

Salad 555 

Saratoga Chips 157 

Sautes 158 

Shells 653 

Potting 5S4 

Pouleinte (Italian) 773 

Poulets au Truffles 724 

Prairie Chicken 287 

Pie 288 

Pretzels 1248 

Proper Paking Temperature 125 1 

Puchero 811 

Puddings. 

Apple 998 

" Dumpling Boiled 983 

" Roll, Boiled 987 

Almond loii 

" Souffles, Individual ... 1061 

Banana 1055 

Barley, Baked 1053 

Batter 1045 

Berry Dumpling 866 

Birds Nest 1049 

Bread 985 

" and Batter 1046 

" Custard 1048 

" " 1033 

" Steamed 1007 

" Baked 1036 

Brown Bread 1035 

Brown Fruit 1013 

Brussels 1012 

Cabinet, Baked 1052 

" Steamed 1047 

Chestnut, Steamed 103S 

Chooolate 997 

" Vnil 990 

Cinnamon Boiled 1050 

Citron, Baked 1034 

Cocoanut loio 

" Individual 1040 

" Baked 1029 

Corn Meal Plum 1031 

Cottage 1037 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



267 



No. 

Puddings. 

Curd 1025 

Currant Suet 1054 

Dundee Meringue 1027 

English Plum 1031 

Farina ]oo5 

Fruit, Baked 1028 

German Steamed Plum 1032 

Graham 996 

Green Corn 1058 

Gypsy 105 1 

Havana 1024 

Hominy 984 

Indian Baked 1044, 1059 

" Fruit Baked 1060 

Individual L,emon 992 

Puff 989 

Italian 1016 

Lemon Boiled 1020 

" Meringue 991 

Liverpool 1015 

Macaroni 1056 

Minute 1026 

Motsa 791 

Paste for Steamed Roll 986 

Pineapple 1014 

Plain Short Paste for Dump- 
lings and Puddings 981 

Pound, Steamed 1008, 1042 

Pumpkin 1017 

Queen 1043 

Raisin Suet 1022 

Raspberr}' 982 

Rice, Baked 1000 

" and Apple, Baked looi 

" and Raisin 1002 

" Custard 1003 

Royal, Steamed 995 

Savarin io39 

Sultana 1023 

" Raisin 1009 

Suet, Boiled 1019 

" Brown 1021 

Sweet Potato 1018 

'lapioca Custard 1004 

" Baked 1041 

" Meringue 1005 

" Steamed 994 

Tremont P'ruit 999 

Various Fruit Rolls 988 

Vermicelli 1057 

Puffs. 

Boston Cream 1222 

Cheese 1229 



Puffs, Corn Starch Cream.s. 

PYuit 

Transparent 

Paste 

" French 

" Suet 

Quails 



a la Financier 

aux Petit Pois 

Broiled on Toast 

Minced 

Roasted 

Rabbits 

a la Jardiniere 

a la Soubise 

al'Etouffe 

Broiled 

Civet of 

Stewed with Dumpling 

With Sauerkraut 

With Spinach 

Radishes 

Rarebit Welsh , 

Ravioles ( Italian ) 

Red Vegetable Salad 

Remoulade 

Rice Cake with Currant Jellv 

Rice Croquettes 

" Boiled with Cream 

" Plain Boiled 

" Cake 

'• " with Compote of Fruit., 

" Shells 

Risot ( Italian ) 

Rissolettes de Poisson 

Rocky Mountain Sheep 

Rolls. 

Butter 

Cheese 

Cleft 

Delavan 

Flaky 

For Sandwiches 

Graham 

Imitation Vienna 

Parkerhouse, French or Split. 

Plain 

Vienna 

Rhubarb Marmalade 

Rossol nick 

Rose Leaves, Crystallized 

Rum Onieler 

Rusk, Finest 

" Sweet 



No. 

1223 

1228 

1224 

908 

910 

909 

279 

2S2 

283 
280 

5S5 
281 
263 
268 

579 
57S 
264 
266 
265 

799 
267 

705 
622 
771 

544 
660 

993 
493 
691 
667 
1112 
1113 
624 
772 
647 
253 

839 

1245 

828 

840 

877 
841 

832 
876 

834 
829 

837 
974 
807 

783 
457 
847 
848 



268 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Russian Cookery 803 

" Salad , 565 

Salad 518 

Apple 549 

Anchovy 561 

Beet 546 

Cabbage and Celery 557 

Cauliflower 545 

Celery 543 

Chicken 537 

Codfish 562 

Crab 563 

Cream 523 

Cucumber 548 

D'Amandes au Caviare 757 

Dressing 521, 523, 524 

Egg 541 

Emergency 540 

Endive 535 

Fish 536 

Frogs Leg 558 

Garnishing for 1450 

Ham 569 

Hamburgh 571 

Lettuce 552 

Lobster 568 

Mayonnaise 519 

" Green 522 

" Thin 520 

Orange 550 

Oyster 567 

Oyster Plant 572 

Pineapple iiii 

Pork 539 

Potato 555 

Red Vegetable 544 

Russian 565 

Salmon 559 

Sardine 560 

Scallop 564 

Shrimp 542 

Sweetbread 566 

Sweet Potato 556 

Tomato 554 

Turkey 570 

Veal 538 

Watercress 547 

Sally Lunn 842 

Salmon, Kippered or Smoked 117 

" Patties 591 

" Salad 559 

" Trout 81 

" Tourte 809 

Salt Fish 123 



Sandwiches 

" au Caviare 

Pyramid of White & Br. 

" Ribbon 743, 

Sardines, a la Creole 

" au Parmesan 

" Petit Canapes de 

Salad 

Sauce. 

Apple for Meats 

Bechamel 

Bordelaise 

Bread 

Butter No. i 

" No. 2 

Caper 

Celery, Brown 

White 

Chestnut 

Cranberry 

Cream 

Doree 

Egg 

For Game 

Giblet 

Green Sauce 

HoUan daise 

" No. 2 

Imperial Fish 



Italian 

Lobster 

Maitre d'Hotel Hot 

Mint 

Mustard 

Olive Fish 

Oyster, Brown.. 

Vv'hite 

Parsley 

Plain White or Cream 

Robert 

Shrimp 

Spanish 

Tartar Hot 

Angelica 

Argentee 

Brandy for Plum Pndd.ng 

Cream, Hot 

C uracoa 

Ecarlate 

French Custard 

Hard 

Lemon Cream 

Lemon Syrup 

Maple Syrup 



740 

742 

1448 

1449 

751 
746 

747 
560 

407 
137 
138 
441 
125 
126 

393 
429 

139 
361 

430 
140 

494 
146 
652 

277 
815 
130 

133 
129 

653 
H3 
144 
408 
439 
136 
124 

145 
142 
140 

135 
141 
662 

134 
1083 
1074 
1072 
1082 
1088 
1081 
1078 
1071 
1086 

1075 
1090 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Sauce. 

Maraschino 1089 

Neapolitan 1080 

Orange Syrup 1076 

Ordinary Wine 1085 

Pineapple 1087 

Plain Custard J079 

Plain Pudding 1067 

Port Wine 1069 

Raspberry 1070 

Sabayon 1077 

Simple vSyrup 1068 

Sultana 1084 

Transparent 1073 

Sauerkraut, a Good Substitute. . . . 442 

" Bacon and 417 

" Boiled Pork 416 

" Salad (German) 767 

" German Way of Cook. 418 

Sausage, Barcelona 810 

' ' Pork • 436 

" Turkey 723 

Service of the Table. 

Notes on Table Etiquette 1456 

Proper Dislies to Use 1455 

Two Ways of Serving Dinner. 1454 
What the Author Considers the 

Best Way to Set a Din. Table 1453 

Scallop 243 

' ' Salad 564 

Scrasis an Kasche 801 

Shad Roe, Fried 127 

" " Scrambled 128 

Shell Fritters 516 

Shells, Potato 623 

" Rice 624 

Shortcake, Apple 1243 

" Peach 1242 

" Strawbc-rr}' 1241 

" Scotch 1244 

Shrimps 177 

En Aspic 725 

In Aspic 1446 

Pyramid Rolls 180 

Omelet 473 

Salad . . 179, 542 

Sandwiches 741 

Sauce 141 

Saute en Toast 178 

Slaw, Cold 534 

" Hot 685 

Snipe and Plover 284 

" a la P.ince of Wales 285 

Soda Mead 1473 



Soup. 

Andalusian 

Agnelotti (Italian ) 

An Parmesan (Italian) 

Beef Bouillon 

Beer ( German ) 

Bisque de Ho nard 

" of Partridge a la Dewey 

Bouillon de Lisbon 

Cauliflower 

Cherry ( German ) 

Chicken Sumb o , ,__, 

CTam Chowder No. i 

" " No. 2 

Coloring for 

Coloring (Liquid Burnt Sugar) 
Conclusive Remarks About . . . 

Consomme a la Colbert 

" a la Paysanne .... 

" au Quenelles 

" au Macaroni 

' ' ail Sherry 

" au Vermicelli 

" Brunoise 

Calcutta 

' ' Claremont 

" Chatelaine 

" de Stael 

" Imperial 

" in Cups 

" Jardiniere 

" Knickerboc- er. . . . 

" Printanier 

" Royal 

Corn Chowder 

Cream of A.sparagus 

" Barley 

" Celery 

" Chicken 

' ' Potatoes 

" Rice 

" Tapioca 

" Tomatoes 

Croutons for 

Fish Chowder 

' ' Mulligatawny 

Game 

Milk and Almond 

Mulligatawny No. i 

" No. 2 

Onion 

Ox Tail No. i 

" No. 2 

Poor Man's 



269 
No. 

59 

768 
769 

57 

764 

6r 

63 
802 

60 
765 



53 
54 
67 
7 
68 

30 
25 
35 
41 
42 

37 
6 
8 

24 
9 

23 

II 

58 
ic 
26 
34 
36 
51 
'3 
40 

39 
38 
14 
43 
66 
22 
21 
52 
29 
55 
812 

27 
28 
32 
44 
45 
65 



270 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



No. 

Soup. 

Potage de Lievre 55 

Puree of Bean'- 47 

*' Carrots 50 

' ' Green Peas 49 

" Mushroom au Pom- 

mery 46 

Split Peas 48 

" Tomato au Crouton.. 20 

Stock, How to Make paije i 

" Light page i 

" Scotch Mutton Broth.. 56 

Rice and Cabbage (Italian). . . 778 

" Radish " ... 779 

Terrapin 62 

' ' Cream 64 

Tomato 15 

" and Rice 18 

" " Green Pea 19 

" Macaroni 16 

" with Vermicelli 17 

Turtle 2 

" Clear 4 

' ' Green i 

" Mock 3 

Clear 5 

Wine in the Preparation of . . . 12 

With Motsa 789 

Veal 31 

Vesiga 806 

Spaghetti and Cream 577 

Spanish Fritters 515 

' ' Sauce 662 

Spare Rib, Country Style 580 

Spinach, a substitute for 438 

" Bacon and 414 

" Boiled 410 

Squirrels Broiled 286 

Squab or Pigeon Pie 484 

Squash, Summer 692 

Stock, How to Make page 9 

" Light Stock page 9 

Strawberries and Cream 1103 

" Shortcake 1241 

Stuffing, Bread for Chicken 320 

" Chestnut for Turk, or Ch. 359 

for Fish 87 

" Oyster, for Turkey, Chk. 

or Fish 440 

" Sausage ISIeat 360 

Succotash 684 

Sweetbread, Au Petit Pois (gr. ps. ) 496 

" Blanquette of and Oys. 488 

" Croquettes 492 



Nd».. 

Sweetbread, Fricassee of and Mush. 637 

" Salad 566- 

" Supreme of 581 

Sweet Potatoes 699 

' ' Browned 701 

' ' Salad 556 

Tart Paste, Sweet 91? 

Tarts 947 

Cutters for 957 

Eldorados 952: 

Lemon 948 

Meringue , 953 

Puff 950 

Vanilla Tartlets 951 

Vol au Vents 949. 

Tea 1258 

Temperature 1251 

Terrapin, Maryland Style 582 

Tete de Cochon, Farci 718 

Thermometer 1250 

Toast, How to Cut for Poached Eggs 65 1 

' ' French 906 

Tomatoes 709 

Omelet 459 

Salad 554 

Stuffed 773 

Sweet , 67S 

With Mayonnaise 553 

Tongue, Corned 443 

Lamb's, with Artichokes 649 

" with Bnissell Sprouts. 587 

Ox 423 

Ox, HoFandaise 611 

Potted 659 

" Papillottes .. 754 

Tranches de Galantine en Jelly. . . . 730 

Tripe Curried a I'ltalienne 497 

" Pickled Broiled 437 

Tsiras, Greek 782 

Turkey 343 

" Boiled, Oyster Sauce 347 

" '■ with Salt Pork 345 

" " Stuff ed, Cran. Sauc. 346 

" " with Celery 349 

" Boned 727 

" " in Aspic Jelly 728 

" Croquettes, Tomato Sauce. 353 

" Fried Fillet of 352 

" Larded with Mushrooms.. 34S 

" Minced v.'ith Poached E;.;gs 350 

Patties 351 

' ' Roast 3^4 

" Salad 570 

" Sausage 723 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



i27i 



No. 

Turkey, Wild 278 

Turnips, Stewed 702 

Unnecessary Boning of Meat. .. . 374 

Veal and Oyster Pie 593 

Cotellettes, 804 

Curry of, a I'lndienne 506 

Cutlets a la Bonaparte 656 

En Demi-Glace 621 

Fillets of, Larded 602 

Fricandeau of 5.99 

Fricassee of, with Mu.shrooms. 485 

Minced with Poached Eggs, . . 614 

Minced with Dressing 402 

Pie 540 

Pot Pie 583 

Ragout of, Jardiniere. 646 

Ribs Baked, with Potatoes 610 

Roast 401 

' ' with Dressing 402 

Salad 538 

Scalloped 620 

Vegetables. 

To Boil Green 668 

Artichokes and Gravy 474 

Asparagus Tips on Toast 604 

Beans, Butler, Stewed 673 

" Cold Siring 688 

'* Dried Lima 689 

String 698 

Beets, Cold 708 

Beet Greens 683 

Brussel Sprouts 672 

Cabbage, Creamed 693 

" Fried 694 

" Shredded with Mayon. 551 

Carrots, Brown 680 

Fried 68r 

" Stewed 682 

Cauliflower and Cream 675 

Salad 545 

Celery, to Curl 703 

Corn, Pudding 679 

" Roasted 676 

and Tomatoes 677 

Cucumbers 706 

Egg-plant. Fried 700 

" Stewed 658 

Hominy, Fried 686 

Kohl-Rabi 687 

Onions, Boiled 697 

" Green 707 

' ' Stuffed 475 

Parsley, Fried 433 

" Omelet 452 



Vegetables. 

Parsley Sauce 142 

Parsnip Fritters 590 

Peas Green 695 

Potatoes See Index P 

Radishes 705 

Sea Kale, Boiled 696 

Slaw, Cold 534 

" Hot 685 

Spinach, Boiled 410 

" and Bacon 414 

Squash, Summer 692 

Succotash 684 

Sweet Potatoes 699 

" " Browned 701 

Tomatoes 709 

" Omelet 459 

Stuffed 573 

Sweet 678 

' ' with Mayonnaise . . . 553 

Turnips, Stewed 702 

Watercress 704 

Venison 245 

Chops Broiled 248 

Consomme 247 

Pie, Hunter Style 251 

Potage 246 

Pot Pie 249 

Roast, Colonial Style 252 

Saddle Roasted with Currant 

Jelly 250 

Vinegars. 

Caper 531 

Celery 530 

Flavored 525 

French Aromatic 533 

Garlic 526 

Nasturtium 528 

Pimento 529 

Ruby 532 

Tarragon 527 

Waffles. 

Baking Powder 887 

French 867 

Ordinary 868 

Rice 883 

Sweet 889 

Watercress Salad 549 

Watercress 704 

Watrouschkisis 805 

Weights and Measures 1252 

Welsh Rarebit 622 

Whitefish a I'Espagnole 98 

Baked Stuffed 99 



272 



PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 



Whitefish, Boiled, Caper Sauce. ... 96 

" Broiled 97 

White Sauce, Plain 140 

Wine in the Preparation of Soup. . 12 

Provenance, Selection, Service 1457 

Bordeaux 1459 

Burgundies 1461 

Champagne 1458 

For a Course Dinner 1467 

Madeira 1464 

Moselle 1463 



Wine, Port 1466 

Rhine 1462 

Sauternes 1460 

Sherry 1465 

Yeast §23, 

" Compressed 1249 

" Ordinary 826- 

" Stock 825 

" The Beginning of 824 

Yorkshire Pudding 366 

Zuluska 80& 



\ PROPER FOOD. 1 

vr — ^ 

Vt /^N the followino^ page will be found some lithographic , ^'^ 

v^ ^^ illustrations of dishes made from healthful food products, 4^ 

X of which Shredded Whole Wheat Biscuit is the basis. ^J 

^^ On the second page following are the recipes for making ^^ 

^r these dishes ; showing also how to prepare the biscuit for ^^ 

^ toast or bread. These recipes are taken from our new illus- ^•^ 

|;^ trated cook book, "The Vital Question," which contains over ^;| 

^!^ 250 recipes besides much other valuable information concern- ^^ 

^? ing foods. S 

^^ The Shredded Whole Wheat Biscuit are made from whole ^J 

^\ . . « 

S wheat, nothing taken from and nothing added, and is there- ^^ 

^ fore a perfect food just as organized in nature's perfect labora- ||^ 

v^ tory. These biscuit are made light and short by mechanical ^ 

v< process, therefore the sour and offensive smells of fermented ^^ 

vr yeast or gases and greasy shortening are absent. «: 

1^ The character of the physical structure of children is ^^ 

v^ largely determined by the character of the material (food) i|^ 

v^ that is selected to build their bodies. The responsibility of ^ 
^<^ .... A 

^^ parents is therefore great, as the foe d they give their children ift 

^^ determines whether the child shall have good teeth or poor ^;^ 

|!5 teeth, good bone or poor bone, good muscle or poor muscle, ^^ 

vl and so on including all parts of the body. The teeth, muscle, ^1^ 

v^ etc., of the adult are likewise the products of the food they t% 

^T eat. You must eat natural food or you must suffer. ^ 

vr . . . ^ 

^ These biscuit readily lend themselves to almost limitless |^ 

V? variety of servings, and, as the basis of general cookery, are a ^!^ 

^r great aid to the chef or cook and at the same time economical, ^-<j 

^r for, while the artistic effect is fine, they become a large portion ^•^ 

v^ of the edible part of the dish (no waste). |* 

^ If you have not already a copy of "The Vital Question," ^i| 

y drop us a postal with your name and address and one will be i<^ 

vr mailed you, free. ift 

I THE SHREDDED WHEAT CO., g 

v! 160 Jackson Street, WORCESTER, MASS. S 



THERE IS NO OTHER WAY." h.d P 





and with them as the basis in general cookery the e 
is pleased, the taste satisfied, the body is nourished 
natural proportion, and natural conditions follow. 






Mr. James Ten Eyck, the father and trainer of the 
iiow^ famous "Ned " Ten Eyck, winner of the Diamond 
Sculls at Henley Royal Regatta, says: — "For good, 
tough, elastic muscle, and at the same time to keep the 
bodj' in good condition, there is nothing in my judg- 
ment equal to Shredded Wheat Biscuit. This food is 
free from previous fermentation, as found in light 
breads made from fine flour, which should always be 
avoided. I am convinced it is a perfect food to train 
on, and to live largely on before training, instead of 
any other kind of bread or cereals. I keep ' Shredded 
Wheat ' in mv house — would not be without it." 



BI5CUIT.WARM OR COLD WITH MILK OR CREAM 
RECIPE NO I. 



Speaking of Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Rev. Dr. 
Edward Everett Hale says there is nothing he more 
enjoys for his breakfast. 

Rev. Dr. John Lindsay Withrow says : " Our table 
is constantly supplied with your delicious biscuit." 






liy/'^q^j^RK^ ON OPPOSITE SIDE OF THIS 5HEE 



r9- 



f. 



136 Raspberries in Shredded Wheat Biscuit Baskets. One 

quart raspberries, % cup sugar, 1/2 cup ice water, or 
chopped ice. G Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Vo pint thin 
cream, powdered sugar. Wash and pick over the 
berries, crush % of them, add the sugar and ice water, 
set in a cool place 1 hour. Prepare the Biscuit by 
cutting \\'ith a sharp pointed knite, an oblong cavity 
in the top of the Biscuit, about V4 inch from sides and 
ends ; carefully remove the top and all inside shreds, 
making a basket. Fill with the crushed berries, let- 
ting the syrup saturate the Biscuit. Put the vv'hole 
berries, of a uniform size, on top; sprinkle with 
powdered sugar and sei-ve with cream. Strawberries, 
blackbemes or bananas may be iHCijared in the same 
w^ay. Bltiebei-ries ma}' be used without crushing. 
Pineapple, peaches or cantaloupe may also be used, 
paring and cutting fine w^ith silver knife, using same 
proportions of sugar and water. Stewed apples may 
also be used as a filling for the baskets. 

28 Egg Toast. Six hard cooked eggs, paprica, celerA' 
salt, 1 cup thin cream, 1 level tablespoon butter, 1 
level tablesjwon Entire Wheat Flour, 4 Shredded 
Wheat Biscuit. Cook the eggs 45 minutes, cool in 
cold water, remove shells, separate yolks and whites. 
Make a cream sauce of the cream, flotir, butter, '/2 
teaspoon salt, V2 teaspoon paprica ; add the whites 
of eggs put through potato ricer. Split the Biscuit, 
sprinkle w^ith celery salt, dust with paprica, and toast 
a light brown in oven, remove to warm platter, di-ess 
with the sauce, cover the top with the yolks of the 
eggs put through a potato ricer, garnish with finch- 
minced parsley. 

26 Poached or Scrambled Eggs 00 Shredded Wheat Biscuit. 
Moisten the Biscuit slightly with cold water, place 
small bits of butter on top ; put in buttered pan in 
hot oven about 3 minutes. Remove with pancake 
turner to warm plate. Use as toast for scrambled or 
poached eggs. 



HOW 
TO SPLIT 

THE 
BISCUIT 





FOR 

TOAST 

AND OTHER 

SERVINGS. 



151 Shredded Wheat Biscuit Toast. W^ith a sharp pointed 
knife split the Biscuit lenglhwise into halves, toast to 
nice light brown, either in oven or over coals, being 
careful not to btirn. If butter is used, put on cold, a 
little at a time — enough for a bite only at once. No 
yeast germs, no baking powder gases, no greasy 
shortening, and yet you have a perfectly light and 
short bread. Note. — Thousands of families have no 
other bread in the house. 

62 Creamed Spinach. Vo peck spinach, 6 Shredded 



W^heat Biscuit, Vj, teaspoon salt, 14 teaspoon white 
pepper, V2 cup heavy cream, 2 level tablespoon! 
butter, salt and pepper. Pick over and wash thi 
spinach till entirely free from grit, put in a kettlt 
without water and set on the stove where it will cool 
slowly till the juices are drawn out, then boil til 
tender. Drain and chop tine. Return to kettle, adc 
butter, salt, pepper and ci-eam; heat, but do nol 
cook. Split the Biscuit with shai-p pointed knife, 
sprinkle lighth'- with salt and pepper, toast lightly in 
oven. Dress with the prepared spinach and serve hot. 

249 Shredded Wheat Biscuit Jellied Apple Sandwich. 4 
large apples, V2 cu].) water, 1/2 cup sugar, 2 Shredded 
Wheat Biscuit, 1 package Raspberry Bromangclon, 
1 pint boiling water. Pare, core and quarter the 
apples, ])ut in sauce j^an with the V2 cup water and 
cook covered until tender, then add the sugar and set 
in a cool place until cold. Turn the boiling water on 
to the Bromangelon and stir until dissolved. Split 
the Biscxiit lengthwise into hah-es, remove some of the 
irnside shreds, put a layer of the stewed apples between 
the halves. Into a narrow pan long enough to take 
the Biscuits, placed etid to end, turn th^^ dissolved 
Bromangelon to the depth of V4 inch and set in ice 
water to harden. When it is hard, place the Biscuit 
top side dow'u in the pan and timi around them tlic 
remainder of the dissolved Bromangelon and set 
away to harden. Serve with thin cream. If Broman- 
gelon is not to be had, the sandwicli may be prepared 
ij! the following manner: Soak V> box of Plymouth 
Rock Gelatine (pink) in Vo cup cold water ¥2 hour. 
If yoti xise Knox's Gelatine or Burnham's Jeih'con, 
follow directions on those packages to piepareliquid ; 
then proceed as directed for Bromangelon. Cook 
the parings and cores of the apples in IV2 pints 
of water for 20 minutes, then strain the boiling v/ater 
from them on to the gelatine, stir until dissolved and 
add % cup sugar. When the sugar is dissoh-ed, strain 
and proceed as diiected in recipe above. An\- of the 
pure gelatines may be used. In their season, straw- 
berries, cimshed or cut in halves, ma^' be used as a 
substitute for stewed apjjlcs. Raspberries or other 
berries may also be used without cutting or crushing. 

Note. — Your tinner can make the nioxild for you ; 
dimensions : deep, 2^ inches ; long at top, 9 inches ; 
at bottom, SVa inches ; wide at top, 3Vs inches ; bot- 
tom, 2% inches.. 

I Biscuit with Milk or Cream, Served Warm. Hold the 
Biscuit ])etween thumb and second finger, and, with 
bottom side down, dip it cpiickly in cold milk, then 
hold it perpendicularly until the milk drains off. Lay 
the Biscuit in a buttered pan, cover, and put in a hot 
oven from three to five minutes. RemoA-e witli pan- 
cake turner to a warm plate, and serve with cream 
and sugar, if iDreierred, or with butter, or syrup. If 
it is desired to serve the Biscuit cold, after dipping in 
cold milk as above, let set from three to five minutes, 
and serve with top dressing of cream or milk, sugar 
to taste, or serA^e cold as taken from carton, with 
milk or cream. 



The above recipes are taken from The Vital Question Cook Book, which contains over 250 valuable recipes, a treatiS" 
on the food subject, table of food values, etc., conveniently arranged for consultation and illustrated, sent free to 
who send their names and address (and name this publication). 

Address, THE SHREDDED WHEAT CO , Worcester, Mass. 



1 



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J4ams 
Sxtracts 



JJre J^l^aifS the Q^st 




They may cost a little more than 
other kinds, but you get a pure 
flavor, and not a substitute 



Harris Sxtract of Vanilla 

Is made from pure Mexican Vanilla 
beans. Do you know that nine- 
tenths of all the Vanilla on the 
market is made from substitutes ? 




Ask for 

Harris^ Extracts 
and insist 
on having 
them* 



Recommended by 



Sugem Qirard 



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%%%%%%%%^^%ii'^%^%^^^^^^i^^'^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 



r 



HM — II I I ^^ m i ^^ i» 



Thatcher's 



4^- 



BA KING 
POWDER 



^ 



TOOK - 



Highest Diploma 



AT world's fair, CHICAGO. 

IT WAS THE ONLY 




THE NEW CONTAINER 



Cream Tartar Qaking Powder 

Made in America that was reported by the Judge 

f Without a Gi*ain of ttn/tufitym All of ^ 

the others had some contamination. It was the | 

Only One that Dissolved in Hot Water | 

I CLEAR AS CRYSTAL j 

I 



I 




Purom 



Stuffed. 



The Chemical Analysis showed 
the Leavening Power of 

Thatchef's to be 15,64- 
Next highest only 14.22 



Tumbler No. i wa.s filled with Hot 
Water and a Teapoonful of our liak- 
ing Powder dropped into it, when it 
dissolved perfectly, I^EAVING THE 
WATER CI^EAR AS CRYSTAL. 

Tumbler No. 2 was filled with Hot 
Water and a Tea^'onful of the best 
other Baking Powder dropped into it. 
At first it looked turbid and finally 
deposited sediment, every grain of 
which was foreign matter. 



8000 



Biscuits were daily made with 

Thatcher's Baking Powder at 

World's Fair, Chicago, which 

were pronounced by the ladies, the finest they 

ever tasted. When you make cake, cookies, 

doughnuts, etc., always use THATCHER'S. 



Half Pounds 
Pounds 



25c 
50g 



Sold by dealers generally. 



H. D. THATCHER & CO., POTSDAM, N. Y. 
H I — M l — I M »i 4IIIMII illll— ♦ M l^»lll 



^^ III ^tm III — IIImJ 



Jan - 17 1901 



DEC 31 1900 






'^f. 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 










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